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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #226  
Old 03-04-2012, 05:19 PM
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gary@germanautosolutions gary@germanautosolutions is offline
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Quote:
How long until the modified CCV is ready?
There hasn't been any progress on this due to the amount of effort invested in releasing the DISA kits. Since that is in it's last stages I hope to be getting back on the CCV soon.

We have a BUNCH of stuff in the pipe line but it all comes down to available manpower. I currently still have a lot of responsibilities in the performance motorcycle side of the business and I am also doing all the CNC programming, fixturing and machining of the new BMW product. I have a good friend who is a awesome machinist and programmer waiting to join the business but the timing of that is dependant on cash flow generated by the BMW side of the business. Since I am a financial conservative I don't like taking on new overhead until the cash flow is already in place to cover it. Once there is a revenue stream in place, the first step is to get my friend in here to free up my machining time so I can focus on developing new product. The second step is to free me up from all my motorcycle business responsibilities so that I can spend 100% of my time on the BMW stuff.

I am 100% committed to working with the BMW community to make German Auto Solutions a rewarding entity for all of us. We have some very clever and experienced people here, a low manufacturing overhead, and passion for the kind of products we want to develop. I think we can make a significant contribution to this community and hopefully make a few bucks along the way.

Here is a few things that are in the queue. Once the ball gets rolling and my time starts to free up you will see new product releases at a significantly faster pace.
  • Serviceable and reliable CCV.
  • Address cooling system explosions.
  • Our version of the VANOS anti-rattle kit.
  • Headlight adjustors.
  • Cluster pixel service. I have already repaired mine about two years ago and made some custom parts that make the procedure easier and more reliable.
  • M54 oil pump retrofit for the high rpm performance guys.
  • Complete entry level cam service tool set for under $100.00.
  • Complete professional level cam service kit for under $200.00.
  • Some sort of replacement cup holders.
  • Drop-in, non-adjustable, & cost effective upper strut bearings that automatically correct camber for typical front lowering spring kits like Eibach or H&R.
  • Fully adjustable, high quality front camber plates at a price point lower than any quality product currently available.
  • If possible, replacement rubber bushings and spherical bearings for some of the expensive non-serviceable suspension components.
  • If you think there is a demand, high quality aluminum belt tension rollers with high quality sealed ball bearings. We already manufacture several thousand supercharger pulleys annually for the several automotive performance aftermarket companies, so it's something that we are already very efficient at.
That should keep me busy for a few weeks! I would also like some feedback from this community about prioritizing the order of new product development.

Thanks again,

Gary
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  #227  
Old 03-04-2012, 05:23 PM
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gary@germanautosolutions gary@germanautosolutions is offline
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I also need to clarify that all DISA kits are shipping with the titanium pivot screw. I have had a few people ask and a few people specify with their order that they want the titanium version. No need to specify, it's the only way they come.

Thanks,

Gary
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  #228  
Old 03-04-2012, 09:10 PM
George16 George16 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gary@germanautosolutions View Post
I also need to clarify that all DISA kits are shipping with the titanium pivot screw. I have had a few people ask and a few people specify with their order that they want the titanium version. No need to specify, it's the only way they come.

Thanks,

Gary
That's great. I hope to receive mine tomorrow. I just checked the status and it is currently at the sort facility here in jacksonville.
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  #229  
Old 03-05-2012, 09:44 AM
ericono ericono is offline
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Is the 528 version of the DISA kit still on the table?

Just checking.

Eric
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  #230  
Old 03-05-2012, 10:20 AM
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Albo Albo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gary@germanautosolutions View Post
  • Serviceable and reliable CCV.
  • Address cooling system explosions.
  • Our version of the VANOS anti-rattle kit.
  • Headlight adjustors.
  • Cluster pixel service. I have already repaired mine about two years ago and made some custom parts that make the procedure easier and more reliable.
  • M54 oil pump retrofit for the high rpm performance guys.
  • Complete entry level cam service tool set for under $100.00.
  • Complete professional level cam service kit for under $200.00.
  • Some sort of replacement cup holders.
  • Drop-in, non-adjustable, & cost effective upper strut bearings that automatically correct camber for typical front lowering spring kits like Eibach or H&R.
  • Fully adjustable, high quality front camber plates at a price point lower than any quality product currently available.
  • If possible, replacement rubber bushings and spherical bearings for some of the expensive non-serviceable suspension components.
  • If you think there is a demand, high quality aluminum belt tension rollers with high quality sealed ball bearings. We already manufacture several thousand supercharger pulleys annually for the several automotive performance aftermarket companies, so it's something that we are already very efficient at.
That should keep me busy for a few weeks! I would also like some feedback from this community about prioritizing the order of new product development.

Thanks again,

Gary
Yes to all of these!
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  #231  
Old 03-05-2012, 10:26 AM
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Gary, you just made my day.
Props to you. If you have any questions for all the above mentioned issues, don't hesitate to ask. Whatever help I can give you to assist in producing a more reliable alternative, I'm all up to it. I am sure other members with more knowledge will help you.
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  #232  
Old 03-05-2012, 10:42 AM
Chewie03 Chewie03 is offline
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Gary,

Well done on the kit. I got my kit last Saturday and installed it yesterday. The quality of the parts are superb. Thanks for including everything we could need in the kit. It took me 1 hr to do the replacement. The hardest part was getting the retaining ring off and back on, and also removing the built-in rubber gasket and cleaning the entire assembly. Everything else went smooth.

One suggestion I have is a link or some pictures on how to take the DISA valve off and putting it back in again. I had done this before, so it wasn't hard for me, but for others that might be the biggest headache.

Good job on the kit!
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  #233  
Old 03-05-2012, 11:29 AM
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gary@germanautosolutions gary@germanautosolutions is offline
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Quote:
Is the 528 version of the DISA kit still on the table?

Just checking.
As of now no. It's been my understanding that the M52-tu DISA's rarely fail. If that is not the case I would be more than happy to revisit that decision.

Thanks everyone for the encouragement,

Gary
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  #234  
Old 03-05-2012, 06:06 PM
George16 George16 is offline
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I receive my DISA this afternoon and I'm finally done installing it. The stock DISA still looks new with the exception of some dirt and the squished o-ring but it's still adequate enough to keep a seal. Gary's DISA flapper and bolt assembly's workmanship was superb.

However, based on my observations on the stock DISA and intake manifold design, I will state the following:

- The stock DISA housing has a metal ring insert where the metal pin passes through. It is kept captive by the "lip" on the metal pin itself. The metal pin in turn is held captive in the intake manifold by the way the plastic manifold is molded. The only way the metal pin can fall out is if the flapper or the actuating mechanism itself breaks because there will be nothing else to keep the metal pin butted/pushed up against the intake manifold inside wall to keep it captive. You can follow what I am talking about once you look inside the intake manifold. You will also notice the shape on top of the intake manifold which actually conforms to the shape of the DISA itself.

Here are some pictures:

Intake manifold with the noticeable shape for the DISA:


Metal pin with the lip to hold the metal insert on the DISA housing:


Metal insert on the DISA housing. It's in the hole at the end of the housing itself. I verified it's metal by using a magnet.


My old dirty DISA with squished o ring:


New DISA flapper and pin assembled:
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  #235  
Old 03-06-2012, 04:48 AM
EconoBox EconoBox is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George16 View Post
However, based on my observations on the stock DISA and intake manifold design, I will state the following:

- The stock DISA housing has a metal ring insert where the metal pin passes through. It is kept captive by the "lip" on the metal pin itself. The metal pin in turn is held captive in the intake manifold by the way the plastic manifold is molded. The only way the metal pin can fall out is if the flapper or the actuating mechanism itself breaks because there will be nothing else to keep the metal pin butted/pushed up against the intake manifold inside wall to keep it captive. You can follow what I am talking about once you look inside the intake manifold. You will also notice the shape on top of the intake manifold which actually conforms to the shape of the DISA itself.

Do you have a point? B/c I am not seeing it.
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  #236  
Old 03-06-2012, 04:59 AM
George16 George16 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
Do you have a point? B/c I am not seeing it.
What I stated is my point. You have to open up and check inside the manifold to understand what I just stated. Even though that is the case, I still used Gary's flapper and actuator because is is stronger and can withstand the stress exerted onto it during engine operations. I have seen titanium blades on our gas turbine and aircraft engines develop cracks over time since we operate the compressor side at speeds of 5000-15000 rpms so the stock plastic can shatter/break (especially the plastic actuator) which will cause the pin to fall out into the manifold.


Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
I replaced my DISA with a new OEM unit for $159.
I am not sure this DISA thing was worth getting worried about,
and might be a case of over-maintenance...

11 year old car (2001) and 120k miles, and my DISA was working perfectly.
First, the O-ring seal was fine (not hard and brittle)
Flap was fine, and the suction hole / vacuum thing worked just like the new DISA valve.

Yes, my pin was loose. I was able to pull it right off the unit.


People are worried about a pin falling into the engine. However, I took a picture of the intake.
You can see that little "cube" area where the pin sites. (You can see the imprint of the pin head)
I'm not even convinced it was a problem b/c of the pictured recess that would trap the pin.
If the pin fell out, there is nowhere for it to go...
If anything if may fall down when you remove the entire DISA, but it can easily be fished out, in that case.
Unless the entire plastic housing shatters, I don't see where the pin could go to....



Edit:
I just read the whle thread and I saw the pictures of the inside area of the manifold you posted. That is what I saw also and there is no way the metal pin will fall out unless the actuator and/or flapper breaks. The recessed are is what "captures" and keeps the metal pin in place. You should have seen it on the pictures you posted. I know this is some sort of vindication for you since everyone wasn't believing what you were saying.

Last edited by George16; 03-06-2012 at 05:48 AM.
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  #237  
Old 03-06-2012, 09:03 AM
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Albo Albo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George16 View Post

Edit:
I just read the whle thread and I saw the pictures of the inside area of the manifold you posted. That is what I saw also and there is no way the metal pin will fall out unless the actuator and/or flapper breaks. The recessed are is what "captures" and keeps the metal pin in place. You should have seen it on the pictures you posted. I know this is some sort of vindication for you since everyone wasn't believing what you were saying.
What vindication? He still missed the point of this rebuild kit. The idea was to improve the actuator and flapper. Gary always said that eliminating the pin was an adjunctive proposition.
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  #238  
Old 03-06-2012, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George16 View Post
I receive my DISA this afternoon and I'm finally done installing it. The stock DISA still looks new with the exception of some dirt and the squished o-ring but it's still adequate enough to keep a seal. Gary's DISA flapper and bolt assembly's workmanship was superb.
Have you noticed a difference in the performance of the car after installing the kit?
Impressions?

Also, reference this thread, where installing a new Disa gave better performance...

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1800317

I am wondering if this kit is comparable to installing a brand new Disa...?

Thanks!
Jason
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Last edited by Jason5driver; 03-06-2012 at 09:20 AM.
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  #239  
Old 03-06-2012, 09:33 AM
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Albo Albo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Have you noticed a difference in the performance of the car after installing the kit?
Impressions?

Also, reference this thread, where installing a new Disa gave better performance...

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1800317

I am wondering if this kit is comparable to installing a brand new Disa...?

Thanks!
Jason
Perhaps your asking for George16's impression specifically, but I have certainly felt an increase in torque and responsiveness. It's probably equivalent to installing a new DISA Valve, but most definately an improvement on the original design.
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  #240  
Old 03-06-2012, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albo View Post
Perhaps your asking for George16's impression specifically, but I have certainly felt an increase in torque and responsiveness. It's probably equivalent to installing a new DISA Valve, but most definitely an improvement on the original design.
Yes, I was asking George, but, basically also asking anyone as well...

I was trying to determine whether the internals of the Disa wear out (ie. rubber diaphragm inside fails) similar to a failing Crankcase Vent Valve - CCV.

Thanks!
Jason
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  #241  
Old 03-06-2012, 11:27 AM
George16 George16 is offline
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Well, I just came back from driving around and based on buttand foot dynomometer, these are some of my observations. Remember, with the exception of the squished out o-ring, my stock DISA flapper and actuator were fully operational.

- There is a noticeable responsiveness in acceleration.
- there is noticeable torque increase.
- The engine is a little bit quieter most likely due to the new o-ring that's now sealing the manifold/DISA mating surface.

Let me reiterate again that this is a great improvement from the stock DISA. IT is for this main reason I spent $95 to have this flapper and actuator so I can install it in my car. To some, $95 is probably too much for them and the stock setup is okay. One thing I can say though is we need to find a replacement seal for the housing itself. It's the seal that goes around the flapper mechanism itself. Over time, it will get degraded and loss it's ability to keep its seal.
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  #242  
Old 03-06-2012, 11:30 AM
George16 George16 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Yes, I was asking George, but, basically also asking anyone as well...

I was trying to determine whether the internals of the Disa wear out (ie. rubber diaphragm inside fails) similar to a failing Crankcase Vent Valve - CCV.

Thanks!
Jason
The internals will wear out over time. The main weakness of the stock setup is the actuator and flapper itself since they are made of plastic (and glass). The constant heat/cold cycle it goes through will wear them out eventually like the plastics and rubber hoses used in the engine compament.

I will make a more thorough comparison once I pull out my old CCV. Keep in mind that his car spent all it life here in Florida.
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  #243  
Old 03-06-2012, 11:30 AM
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Jason, in my case, the flapper had a 1/4" sloppiness at the beginning of the opening. Basically it could stay that much open, or almost closed. The new unit had that spring firmer. Probably it was due to the plastic pin getting eroded. The first thing I noticed was no more whirring. The 2nd was a slight torque improvement - low end. That slight improvement was still noticeable. I don't think I had any false air going in around the O-ring (vacuum leak).
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  #244  
Old 03-06-2012, 11:30 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George16 View Post
Well, I just came back from driving around and based on buttand foot dynomometer, these are some of my observations. Remember, with the exception of the squished out o-ring, my stock DISA flapper and actuator were fully operational.

- There is a noticeable responsiveness in acceleration.
- there is noticeable torque increase.
- The engine is a little bit quieter most likely due to the new o-ring that's now sealing the manifold/DISA mating surface.

Let me reiterate again that this is a great improvement from the stock DISA. IT is for this main reason I spent $95 to have this flapper and actuator so I can install it in my car. To some, $95 is probably too much for them and the stock setup is okay. One thing I can say though is we need to find a replacement seal for the housing itself. It's the seal that goes around the flapper mechanism itself. Over time, it will get degraded and loss it's ability to keep its seal.

Doesn't the kit come with a new O-ring?

Orangey o-ring in this picture:
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  #245  
Old 03-06-2012, 11:34 AM
George16 George16 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Doesn't the kit come with a new O-ring?

Orangey o-ring in this picture:
It comes with an o ring and that's the o ring that goes into groove. What I'm talking about is the orange seal on the u-shaped housing itself. Be careful when you clean it. This is embedded into the u-shaped housing itself. You don't want any tears or cut or else it will not provide a good seal between the DISA and manifold.

All the orangey thing you see in the u-shaped housing is a seal in itself. The o ring that comes with the kit is the one on the bottom.

Last edited by George16; 03-06-2012 at 11:36 AM.
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  #246  
Old 03-06-2012, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George16 View Post
It comes with an o ring and that's the o ring that goes into groove. What I'm talking about is the orange seal on the u-shaped housing itself. Be careful when you clean it. This is embedded into the u-shaped housing itself. You don't want any tears or cut or else it will not provide a good seal between the DISA and manifold.

All the orangey thing you see in the u-shaped housing is a seal in itself. The o ring that comes with the kit is the one on the bottom.
Right, I was talking about the o-ring at the base of the flapper...
I did not know/ realize there was a rubber gasket at the "U"...

Thanks!
Jason
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  #247  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:02 PM
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glaz1281 glaz1281 is offline
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Does anyone know what the orange gasket material is made of ?
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  #248  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:08 PM
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Albo Albo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glaz1281 View Post
Does anyone know what the orange gasket material is made of ?
Not 100% sure what the original O-Ring is made of, but I believe the O-Ring G.A.S. includes with the kit is silicone.


Apparently they sell three different versions of the O-Ring (Silicone, Viton and Fluorosilicone):

http://germanautosolutions.com/DISA_O-Rings.html
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  #249  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:18 PM
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glaz1281 glaz1281 is offline
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yeah I ordered one from them. I was referring the the original material.Thanks
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  #250  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:36 PM
George16 George16 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albo View Post
Not 100% sure what the original O-Ring is made of, but I believe the O-Ring G.A.S. includes with the kit is silicone.


Apparently they sell three different versions of the O-Ring (Silicone, Viton and Fluorosilicone):

http://germanautosolutions.com/DISA_O-Rings.html
Yup, silicon.

Anyway, by the looks/feel of it, they seem to be made of the same material as the o ring. I can't ascertain 100% unless I send it to my buddies in the Navy so they can chekc what material it's made out of. You can't go wrong with either Viton or silicon. Viton is preferred for applications involving chemicals/fluids.
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