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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #326  
Old 05-08-2012, 10:18 PM
Eurong Eurong is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eurong View Post
The problem is space is very tight, and the bolt head is thin, difficult to get a grip. Also can't drill a hole to use bit extractor due to space constraints. I think it's still lucky. If the lower bolt is stripped that will be a nightmare.
Update: It took me weeks to fight this bloddy bolt on an on and off basis. The methods I've tried:

Use a dremel to cut a surface slot and use large flat screw driver. Didn't have enough grip, partly due to tight space and the driver can't be inserted vertically.

File flat surface on two sides and use a piler or vice grip. Didn't have enough grip.

Cut a notch on one side and hammer it with a flat screw driver. I hit pretty hard and it did not move a micron. I'm afraid too heavy hammering may knock loose something else.

Drill a hole and use a screw extractor. This was my best hope. Didn't work, again due to space it is very difficult to press hard to get a grip. Eventually the extractor itself stripped.

Used JB weld to bond a nut. Let it dry over night. This was my next best hope for the whole night, as I am running short on options. Turned out this was the biggest disappointment! The weld snapped off even with 20% of the force I used when stripping the torx.

Finally, a dremel with 90 degree angle attachment saved my day. This was really my only option left. I tried to cut the bolt head off, very very carefully not to touch other plastics. Only need to cut the top half of the bolt head then hammer the bottom part. It moved! Once the bolt moved 0.01 mm, everything else is smooth sailing afterwards. I had two beers. One is not sufficient to satisfy my happiness.

So my DISA retrofit is finally in place. I did find prying off the crank lever is very difficult (mine is as tight as new). The 15 min job as stated on the web site is too optimistic. Also the cleaning up of the o-ring is very tedious. It almost feel like to chisel off bit by bit.

I really hope this is the last time I touch this bloody DISA.

Last edited by Eurong; 06-13-2012 at 10:47 PM.
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  #327  
Old 05-09-2012, 08:09 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Gary, can't wait for the CCV update. Remeber to post here (the thread I started for you a bit early)
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TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
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  #328  
Old 05-09-2012, 10:42 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Gary, check post #4 here.
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Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
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  #329  
Old 05-09-2012, 12:03 PM
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gary@germanautosolutions gary@germanautosolutions is offline
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Quote:
if you could kindly give me the address where to send my DISA.
PM sent. I'll get you taken care of.

Gary
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  #330  
Old 05-09-2012, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
I did find prying off the crank lever is very difficult (mine is as tight as new).
I need to look into this more. I'll try drilling out the bellcrank lock fingers on a new unit and see how much that helps.

Quote:
Also the cleaning up of the o-ring is very tedious. It almost feel like to chisel off bit by bit.
This also seems to be condition related. I've removed the molded in seal from a new unit, a normal used unit, and a very worn unit, and the level of difficulty was proportional to the condition of the DISA. We will be trying different techniques to see if we can find an easier method.

Quote:
Update: It took me weeks to fight this bloody bolt on an on and off basis.
I'm glad you finally succeeded with this. Did you ever verify whether you have T30 or T40 screws on your DISA? I've checked the screw part number for dozens of different years and models, both USA and Europe and there is only one part number listed. If yours are T30 I wonder if they were replaced at some point.

Thanks,

Gary
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  #331  
Old 05-09-2012, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Gary, check post #4 here.
I definitely think that there is some truth to that.
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  #332  
Old 05-09-2012, 04:56 PM
Eurong Eurong is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gary@germanautosolutions View Post
I need to look into this more. I'll try drilling out the bellcrank lock fingers on a new unit and see how much that helps.


This also seems to be condition related. I've removed the molded in seal from a new unit, a normal used unit, and a very worn unit, and the level of difficulty was proportional to the condition of the DISA. We will be trying different techniques to see if we can find an easier method.


I'm glad you finally succeeded with this. Did you ever verify whether you have T30 or T40 screws on your DISA? I've checked the screw part number for dozens of different years and models, both USA and Europe and there is only one part number listed. If yours are T30 I wonder if they were replaced at some point.

Thanks,

Gary
It may well be a T40. But mine has some dust on it and intially T40 won't slot in so I thought it was T30. The new bolt is indeed T40.
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  #333  
Old 05-11-2012, 01:39 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
I did find prying off the crank lever is very difficult
Quote:
Of the 25 screw drivers i have none worked in unseating the white plastic round thing.
i'd love to see a picture of that magical screw driver.
Gary, I also found removing the Bell crank by prying with a screw driver difficult, I could probably succeed the job but I'm sure the housing won't be pretty. So I came up with a different way to deal with it.

I used a 17/64 tap but I think if you have 1/4-or 5/16 should still work. I tapped into the middle of the bell crank about 6-7 turns.



Turn it up side down, put an opened wrench across the tap handle, a soft hit with a hammer.



It just fall right off without a fight.

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  #334  
Old 05-11-2012, 11:50 PM
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QUOTE]flap wont fully open after install[/QUOTE]
Problem identified and solved.

I received ibyte's DISA with the sticking flapper valve today and have found the problem to be the result of the OEM bellcrank bearing and seal being misaligned. The rotating axis of the seal and bearing are at an angle with respect to the upper end bearing.

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You can see in the picture that the angle that the flapper valve & bellcrank are sitting is not in line with rotational axis of the DISA upper bearing. The flapper & bellcrank have been pressed together without the installation of the titanium screw/pin, and are aligning themselves to the angle of the lower bearing and seal. Once you install and tighten the screw/pin it causes binding of the mechanism.

My first thought was that I had closed up the bellcrank bearing running clearances too much compared to stock, and that there wasn't enough bearing clearance to allow for this much misalignment of the upper and lower bearings. I started remachining bellcranks until the installed mechanism was no longer binding. Unfortunately I had to machine them to a looser tolerance than the stock plastic bellcrank. That didn't seem right to me so I did a little more investigation and found that the major problem was the back side of the bellcrank rubbing against the misaligned seal.

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After realizing this, I then relieved about .015" of material off the back side of the bellcrank where it was rubbing on the seal. That made a big difference! I then started closing up the bearing clearance a little at a time until I was back to my original spec and still didn't have any binding issues.

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This picture shows the area that was rubbing and the material that was removed. I took a little more than what was needed to prevent binding just in case there are other DISAs out there with even greater misalignment. Unfortunately I just made a big run of bellcrank levers last week and now I don't feel comfortable shipping them. Although this is apparently not a common problem (so far 1 out of 100) It's a major pain if you get your kit fully installed and find it binding up.

If anyone else out there has a kit that is not installed yet or is still on the way, be aware of this potential problem. Install the flapper, bellcrank & screw without any locktite and start snugging the screw. You don't have to tighten the screw very hard to determine if there is a problem. If the mechanism gets too tight to close under the spring pressure of the vacuum diaphagm, do not finish the assembly. Email me and I will get you out a new bellcrank lever right away.

ibyte, I will anodize some of the new revision bellcrank levers over the weekend and get your repaired DISA back out to you on Monday.

Thanks,

Gary
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  #335  
Old 05-12-2012, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Gary, I also found removing the Bell crank by prying with a screw driver difficult, I could probably succeed the job but I'm sure the housing won't be pretty. So I came up with a different way to deal with it.

I used a 17/64 tap but I think if you have 1/4-or 5/16 should still work. I tapped into the middle of the bell crank about 6-7 turns.
That's a good idea. Unfortunately I can't count on everyone having the tools on hand that you do, but I think a have an idea for something similar. It looks like a 5/16 x 1 1/2 sheet metal screw would self tap in the bellcrank lever. Then you could grab under the head of the screw with a pair of needle nose pliers and ply up with it against the housing. That would give a straight up pull with quite a bit of force while not needing to pry against anything critcal. That would also prevent breaking of the plastic bellcrank lever in case it needs to go back in for some reason. I will pick up a few screws and give it a try. If that works I'll include the screw with the kit. The only problem is that I keep increasing the cost of the kit on my end while the profit margins are already painfully small.

Thanks for the idea,

Gary
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  #336  
Old 05-12-2012, 01:08 AM
newton22 newton22 is offline
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I got brave and drilled the bell crank. I didn't care for damaging the old valve flap, but I had to be careful with the housing.
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  #337  
Old 05-12-2012, 06:30 PM
perretar perretar is offline
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Ok whats a DISA valve what are symptoms when its bad ?
Never mind. I though I had read the whole thread before posting.
Then I found pages 2-14.

Last edited by perretar; 05-12-2012 at 08:17 PM.
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  #338  
Old 05-12-2012, 11:28 PM
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gary@germanautosolutions gary@germanautosolutions is offline
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Quote:
Ok whats a DISA valve what are symptoms when its bad ?
Never mind. I though I had read the whole thread before posting.
Then I found pages 2-14.
Yes, it's become a pretty long thread. If you don't have the time or will to read it all, our website gives you a pretty good summary what the DISA is, what the design flaws are, and how the kit address those flaws.

http://germanautosolutions.com/DISA_...epair_Kit.html

Let me know if you still have any questions after visiting the site.

Thanks,

Gary
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  #339  
Old 05-13-2012, 05:02 AM
perretar perretar is offline
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Disa

Thanks Gary for the reply. I did read up to page 10 last nite and then visited your website. Will go back soon and read rest of thread to make sure I dont miss anything.

Just got my '03 530i this past week, 72k miles one owner. I do plan to check out the DISA valve sometime soon. Will likely get one of your rebuild kits, just to be sure. How much time does it take to remove, inspect, re-install DISA? (I am a mechancially inclined DIY'er and have lots of tools)

When do you think you will have the CCV kit and BAR1 cap available ?
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  #340  
Old 05-13-2012, 10:27 PM
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DISA kit binding update:

New bellcrank levers with additional seal boss clearance were made, anodized and tested over the weekend. All kits will now ship with the updated lever.

Gary
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  #341  
Old 05-13-2012, 10:31 PM
Eurong Eurong is offline
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Originally Posted by perretar View Post
How much time does it take to remove
2 minutes if you don't strip any bolts.
2 weeks if upper bolt is stripped.
lifetime if lower bolt is stripped
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  #342  
Old 05-13-2012, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
How much time does it take to remove, inspect, re-install DISA? (I am a mechancially inclined DIY'er and have lots of tools)
That's been the subject of a little debate on this thread. The kit itself takes less than 15 minutes to install. The time consuming part is cleaning the DISA housing and removing the factory molded in seal. That part can double or even triple the quoted 15 minute install time.


Quote:
When do you think you will have the CCV kit and BAR1 cap available ?
Trust me, no one wants me to make progress on these more than me. If Murphy stops beating me up for a week or so you'll see some updates.

Gary
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  #343  
Old 05-13-2012, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
lifetime if lower bolt is stripped
Not to make light of your pain, but that's funny.
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  #344  
Old 05-13-2012, 10:41 PM
Eurong Eurong is offline
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Originally Posted by gary@germanautosolutions View Post
Trust me, no one wants me to make progress on these more than me. If Murphy stops beating me up for a week or so you'll see some updates.

Gary
Actually I quite like the idea of 1BAR cap. If it works without adverse effect, it will definately prolong the cooling system. But just not sure whether it is a good idea. If the cooling efficiency is not affected, I just wonder why BMW engineers go to such hassle to design a higher pressure system?
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  #345  
Old 05-15-2012, 11:02 AM
ibyte ibyte is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gary@germanautosolutions View Post
QUOTE]flap wont fully open after install
Problem identified and solved.

ibyte, I will anodize some of the new revision bellcrank levers over the weekend and get your repaired DISA back out to you on Monday.

Thanks,

Gary[/QUOTE]

This kind of customer service is unheard of!!!!
This guy who has a monopoly of the DISA repair kit - decides to do the ff:
- redesigns the failing part to last a lifetime
- uses the best quality materials (alluminum and titanium)
- tight tolerance on parts for a perfect fit
- complete kit down to the Oring, grease, loctite, washers ......
- price the kit very reasonably
- spends more time to help customers with their individual issues!

I am a customer for life.
BTW i have 4 more cars with DISA to do.
Thanks Gary.
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  #346  
Old 05-15-2012, 12:34 PM
newton22 newton22 is offline
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I would like to agree and say that Gary is doing an exceptional job at taking care of his customers.

I'm in line for any new products to be released by Gary.
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  #347  
Old 05-15-2012, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
I would like to agree and say that Gary is doing an exceptional job at taking care of his customers.
Thanks you guys, I'm taking German Auto Solutions very seriously. I think it has huge potential for both myself and the BMW community. If anyone ever has any issues, please feel free to contact me, I'll do whatever I can to help.

Thanks,

Gary
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  #348  
Old 05-15-2012, 10:10 PM
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Thanks to 16valex I think I have the answer to the "bellcrank lever extraction problem".

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I just used a 5/16 self tapping screw to extract the bellcrank lever on a brand new DISA (some lucky BMW owner is getting a DISA "Gold Valve"). The screw easily threads into the hole in the lever, then you just grab it under the screw head with a pair of needle nose pliers and pop it out by prying against the outside of housing. Easy to do and no possibility of damaging anything critical. I will be looking for a cost effective source for these so that I can include one in the kit. Now if I can only come up with a way to make the molded in seal easier to remove.


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For those who have not seen the DISA Gold Valve.

Gary
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  #349  
Old 06-07-2012, 06:39 PM
GerTAB GerTAB is offline
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Near the end of last month, I upgraded my DISA with Gary's kit. Several comments:

1. My 2004 330i has 175,000 miles with the original DISA. I took out the DISA and shook it vigorously. No rattles. Also, the pin was tight, and had to use Gary's suggested technique with screwdriver and diagonal cutters to remove the pin.

2. I found using the same diagonal cutters to clip the existing retaining ring was faster than using the screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to remove it.

3. I am very impressed with the quality of the items in the DISA kit, including the machined flap.
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  #350  
Old 06-08-2012, 12:12 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Just a few links for the record ...

- How the DISA valve operates (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test DISA operation (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & a simple DIY to install an M54 DISA (1) & a nice DISA autopsy (1) (2) & a great DISA group buy (1) & how the disa valve o-ring fails (1) (2) & how it can reputedly cause all sorts of cold-engine rough idle problems (1) (2) & where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1) & why you want to check the DISA at 100K miles or whenever the airbox is removed (1) (2) & how some 'repair' a rattling DISA unit (1) (2) (3) & why the DIfferenzierte SAuganlage ("Differential Air Intake") valve flap breaks (1), sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) & a well documented example of how a broken DISA flap can ruin your engine (1) & yet another seemingly complex set of misfire codes reputedly traced to a broken DISA valve (1)
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