DISA Valve repair kit

I think 2.5L DISA lasts longer than 3.0L
My 2.5L has 105k miles , still original and going strong where 3.0L both failed long time ago

Originally Posted by champaign777

I think 2.5L DISA lasts longer than 3.0L
My 2.5L has 105k miles and still original where 3.0L both failed long time ago

Would be interesting to know why.

When I pulled the DISA from my 2003 525 76k miles this week I found that it was stripped and the flap was just flapping in the wind I replaced it with the one I got from the group buy we had a few months ago and now my car runs a lot smoother, no more jerky starts from red lights. I also noticed that at 80mph my rpms dropped from 3k to 2.8k. So a nice pickup in power at mid range

Chisum

Does anyone have a spare DISA from the M52TU engine they could send in? The collective 528 owners would really appreciate it!

Originally Posted by ericono

Does anyone have a spare DISA from the M52TU engine they could send in? The collective 528 owners would really appreciate it!

I'm waiting on my DISA o-ring to come in, once I have it I'm going to do some maintenance... if my flapper is flapping in the breeze, I'll pull it out and mail it in and drive without it.

How to order?

For those interested in purchasing make sure you fit one of the following:

Part#7502275 or 7544805 stamped on the body of your DISA, which means you should be driving one of these:

E39: Details on E39
E39 530i Saloon, Europe
E39 530i Touring, Europe

E46: Details on E46
E46 330Ci Convertible, Europe
E46 330Ci Coupé, Europe
E46 330i Saloon, Europe
E46 330i Touring, Europe
E46 330xi Saloon, Europe
E46 330xi Touring, Europe

E53: Details on E53
E53 X5 3.0i SUV, Europe

E60: Details on E60
E60 530i Saloon, Europe

E65: Details on E65
E65 730i Saloon, Europe

E66: Details on E66
E66 730Li Saloon, Europe

E83: Details on E83
E83 X3 3.0i SUV, Europe

E85: Details on E85
E85 Z4 3.0i Roadster, Europe

Z3: Details on Z3
Z3 Z3 3.0i Coupé, Europe
Z3 Z3 3.0i Roadster, Europe

For anyone how hasn't been following the entire thread..... Kits are currently available with the stainless steel pivot pin screw. If you want the titanium screw version you will have to wait until mid-late February. If you are ready to purchase please PM me and I will give you my Paypal address and the amount.

2.5L version probably about 2-3 weeks out. M52tu version?

Thanks again everyone for the supporting this project.

Just a little teaser, I made some good progress on the CCV design this weekend.

Originally Posted by BikesStillRule

Thanks again everyone for the supporting this project.

Just a little teaser, I made some good progress on the CCV design this weekend.

It's getting more and more interesting...

Originally Posted by BikesStillRule

For those interested in purchasing make sure you fit one of the following:

Part#7502275 or 7544805 stamped on the body of your DISA, which means you should be driving one of these:

E39: Details on E39
E39 530i Saloon, Europe
E39 530i Touring, Europe

E46: Details on E46
E46 330Ci Convertible, Europe
E46 330Ci Coupé, Europe
E46 330i Saloon, Europe
E46 330i Touring, Europe
E46 330xi Saloon, Europe
E46 330xi Touring, Europe

E53: Details on E53
E53 X5 3.0i SUV, Europe

E60: Details on E60
E60 530i Saloon, Europe

E65: Details on E65
E65 730i Saloon, Europe

E66: Details on E66
E66 730Li Saloon, Europe

E83: Details on E83
E83 X3 3.0i SUV, Europe

E85: Details on E85
E85 Z4 3.0i Roadster, Europe

Z3: Details on Z3
Z3 Z3 3.0i Coupé, Europe
Z3 Z3 3.0i Roadster, Europe

For anyone how hasn't been following the entire thread..... Kits are currently available with the stainless steel pivot pin screw. If you want the titanium screw version you will have to wait until mid-late February. If you are ready to purchase please PM me and I will give you my Paypal address and the amount.

2.5L version probably about 2-3 weeks out. M52tu version?

Thanks again everyone for the supporting this project.

Just a little teaser, I made some good progress on the CCV design this weekend.

This applies to USA models too I hope?

Originally Posted by Dwayne

I'm waiting on my DISA o-ring to come in, once I have it I'm going to do some maintenance... if my flapper is flapping in the breeze, I'll pull it out and mail it in and drive without it.

I like your Sig...!

Originally Posted by BikesStillRule

2.5L version probably about 2-3 weeks out. M52tu version?

Thanks again everyone for the supporting this project.

Just a little teaser, I made some good progress on the CCV design this weekend.

I am VERY anxious to see your idea/design...!

Originally Posted by kimokk

This applies to USA models too I hope?

The Euro design is identical to the US design. The list is from realoem. It's the same part across the lineup, whether it's Euro or US spec, left hand or right hand, automatic or manual. This OK with you?

(the only differences between Euro & US are interior trims and some peripheral electronics like the Euro has the the radio without amp, they have cloth seats, different arm rest, slightly different dash trim, different color headlight markers, stuff like that).

Originally Posted by doru

The Euro design is identical to the US design. The list is from realoem. It's the same part across the lineup, whether it's Euro or US spec, left hand or right hand, automatic or manual. This OK with you?

(the only differences between Euro & US are interior trims and some peripheral electronics like the Euro has the the radio without amp, they have cloth seats, different arm rest, slightly different dash trim, different color headlight markers, stuff like that).

Thanks I'm just used to seeing the part list come up for both USA and Europe when using real.oem. Just don't want to assUme sometimes. Ciao.

Originally Posted by kimokk

Thanks I'm just used to seeing the part list come up for both USA and Europe when using real.oem. Just don't want to assUme sometimes. Ciao.

Yes, sometimes realoem plays tricks. There's another part site lookup:

BMWfans
Older BMW partsfans

Just a little teaser, I made some good progress on the CCV design this weekend.

I don't know why I'm quoting myself.

Since I haven't started a CCV redesign thread yet I'll ask you guys a question here.

What do you think people would be willing to pay for a true CCV fix. If the product was very high quality, was no more difficult to install than a normal CCV replacement (not that that's an easy job, but the old one needs to be removed), was very easy to clean and service once installed (less than 10 minutes), stayed true to the original BMW regulated vacuum design, included a black anodized billet aluminum main CCV unit, a new redesigned dip stick tube, all new hoses and connections, new intake/idle manifold o-rings, had every piece available as a replacement part including vacuum diaphragm, and was barely visable once installed?

I'm asking because based on the projected cost of what I have designed so far I estimate a selling price somewhere between $250.00 & $300.00. If you purchase all the OEM parts to do the job with the new dipstick upgrade I think it runs around $250.00.

I already have many, many hours into this and I don't want to waste my time if I can't sell a bunch of them. I would need to sell a bunch in order to recover all the design and developement costs and to bring the machining costs down by running a lot of units per run.

Feedback please!

The original CCV in my car failed (return hose split in half) around 50k miles. If this is normal then I'm looking at 4 replacements over the life of the car considering 200k. Add in 4 to 6 hours of back breaking labor to replace it. If your design is a one time fix then I think 3 to 4 hundred is within reason.

Chisum

I think it might be tough considering the age of most of the E39s out there. I've got 143K on mine, original CCV. Realistically, how long will I keep the car? 250K? In my case I can probably get by with one CCV replacement soon. However... I'm always willing to spend a little more on a good, quality piece, too. If it's $50 or so within the cost of what I'd pay on pelican (for good stuff, not Uro crap), I would definitely spend the extra few dollars and know I won't have trouble with it. If it's twice as much as replacement parts... eh, I'd probably go with replacement parts.

EDIT: I just priced everything out on pelican, all genuine BMW parts except for the vent hose to the dipstick tube (contitech) and 2 meters of silicone vacuum hose (also contitech), including a new dipstick tube (but no dipstick). Grand total is $285.25

EDIT #2: You mentioned including an intake manifold gasket set, that's another $27.25, so $312.50. The only thing I see "missing" from my parts list is the distribution pieces that sits on top of the intake manifold. Not sure if this reeeaaally needs to be replaced, but including the six o-rings used to seal that piece to the manifold would be great.

Originally Posted by BikesStillRule

I don't know why I'm quoting myself.

Since I haven't started a CCV redesign thread yet I'll ask you guys a question here.

What do you think people would be willing to pay for a true CCV fix. If the product was very high quality, was no more difficult to install than a normal CCV replacement (not that that's an easy job, but the old one needs to be removed), was very easy to clean and service once installed (less than 10 minutes), stayed true to the original BMW regulated vacuum design, included a black anodized billet aluminum main CCV unit, a new redesigned dip stick tube, all new hoses and connections, new intake/idle manifold o-rings, had every piece available as a replacement part including vacuum diaphragm, and was barely visable once installed?

I'm asking because based on the projected cost of what I have designed so far I estimate a selling price somewhere between $250.00 & $300.00. If you purchase all the OEM parts to do the job with the new dipstick upgrade I think it runs around $250.00.

I already have many, many hours into this and I don't want to waste my time if I can't sell a bunch of them. I would need to sell a bunch in order to recover all the design and developement costs and to bring the machining costs down by running a lot of units per run.

Feedback please!

I can and would stomach that cost. It would be worth it to have a bullet-resistant solution.

If your CCV design (high quality) is in the 250-300$ ball-park AND it's 100% working without CEL's and oil consumption, I would snag it no problem.
Put me on the list.

Also, BikeStillRules: keep in mind there are 2 CCv designs. One for the M54 engine, and one for the M52 engine. The M54 engine has a blocked outlet, the M52 has a hose going (forgot where - mine is a M54, hence not interested) - would be #6

I'd be interested too. However, how do you plan to prevent the condensation of oil vapors on the inside of the tubes and the CCV in cold weather? That is the technical challenge as the CCV works fine when it is not clogged. The insulation that BMW has applied to the cold weather system is a half-a$$ed approach. How will you address that issue?

Originally Posted by BikesStillRule

I don't know why I'm quoting myself.

Since I haven't started a CCV redesign thread yet I'll ask you guys a question here.

What do you think people would be willing to pay for a true CCV fix. If the product was very high quality, was no more difficult to install than a normal CCV replacement (not that that's an easy job, but the old one needs to be removed), was very easy to clean and service once installed (less than 10 minutes), stayed true to the original BMW regulated vacuum design, included a black anodized billet aluminum main CCV unit, a new redesigned dip stick tube, all new hoses and connections, new intake/idle manifold o-rings, had every piece available as a replacement part including vacuum diaphragm, and was barely visable once installed?

I'm asking because based on the projected cost of what I have designed so far I estimate a selling price somewhere between $250.00 & $300.00. If you purchase all the OEM parts to do the job with the new dipstick upgrade I think it runs around $250.00.

I already have many, many hours into this and I don't want to waste my time if I can't sell a bunch of them. I would need to sell a bunch in order to recover all the design and development costs and to bring the machining costs down by running a lot of units per run.

Feedback please!

IMO, I really do not think you will have ANY problem selling....
At all...
Especially if your design is a ONE time fix, and will LAST the lifetime of the car, and will require NO replacements every 1-2 years.

I want your design to be bullet-proof...!

No more plastic hoses and hose connections...!
No more hiding that d@mn valve/oil separator under the intake...!

I am on my 3rd CCV now (cold-weather version).
I am tired of the piss-poor design and plastics.
I think BMW forgot the K.I.S.S. motto completely.

I also have a 1997 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L with a manual transmission.
You know what it has for a PCV or CCV...?
NOTHING!
It has a hose running from the valve cover to the intake.
DONE!
LOL!

If you do not have something, then I had already planned on doing my own tinkering...

I have some ideas, and I am pretty sure at least one of them will work.

I was extremely close to buying another CCV when in the middle of doing the oil filter housing gasket replacement....
But, I held myself back.... a lot...
Because I knew you were going to design something soon.
And, judging from the Disa fix you developed, I think we will should be in good shape...!


Thanks!
Jason

Latest DISA update:

I received the used 2.5L M54 version of the DISA this week thanks to chisum. The flapper is shorter and shaped differently. Just like the 3.0L vesions that I have seen, everything is in pretty good shape except the bellcrank lever and flapper valve.

The bellcrank levers would have been the same between versions but I will need to make ones with a shallower counterbore to keep the relationship of the screw to the flapper the same. I hope to have both versions ready by the time the titanium screws come in.

I'd be interested too. However, how do you plan to prevent the condensation of oil vapors on the inside of the tubes and the CCV in cold weather? That is the technical challenge as the CCV works fine when it is not clogged. The insulation that BMW has applied to the cold weather system is a half-a$$ed approach. How will you address that issue?

The seperator/regulator will be aluminum and be bolted to the oil filter housing and tucked in behind it. Heat tranfer thru the mounting, along with the nice warm and cozy location that's sheilded from cold air flow, should keep the entire unit running between 120-180 degrees. The service location will be a cap located up near the current valve cover vent port where the current CCV hose attaches.


Solid model view of CCV prototype. There are about 14 seperate machined pieces not including custom dip stick tube or mounting brackets. Each one has serveral machining operations and most will require custom fixturing. Units will be anodized a satin black.



Transparent view showing oil seperator inner tube and helix. This design provides a longer and more spiral path for the oil mist to seperate out than the stock unit. Also visable is the vacuum regulator internals. All internal dimensions and port sizes match the OEM unit. I was even able to source an exact match for the internal regulator spring. I will be testing different diaphragm materials, including a fiber reinforced silicone. If at some time the diaphragm does fail it will be available as a $6-7 replacement part. Once installed the entire unit should be able to be removed in about 15 minutes if needed.



Exploded view of CCV unit. This is all you need to do for routine maintenance. Unscrew cap locatated at valve cover, pull out inner seperator tube and helix, wipe both clean and reinstall. It will even have a way to clean the dipstick drainback path in about 15 seconds.


There is a LOT of work left here so don't expect any beta units for a couple of months. Next step is to just machine up one regulator ass'y and test back to back for flow and pressure with a stock unit. While that's happening I have a friend with a rapid prototype machine who will be making me a solid plastic unit for fitment testing and mounting.

I hope this pans out because this is a lot of work without knowing if I can sell them competitively.

I give your CCV two thumbs up.

Chisum

Looks like a great start. I'm in when your are ready to test. You obviously have the talent, equipment and expertise to make this work. I think you will have little problem selling a well designed and operating CCV system. A system that has given many owner's problems. I could see this becoming something like the vanos fix many of us have installed.
Good luck!