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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #26  
Old 01-09-2012, 09:23 AM
jburke4689 jburke4689 is offline
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No racing here. Little faster on take off. Come on. There is no comparison. It is far more satisfying to drive than a 328. My anecdotal evidence is that three people that work for me bought their own after driving mine. All of them were replacements for 328 or 325.
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  #27  
Old 01-09-2012, 09:33 AM
MontrealBimmer MontrealBimmer is offline
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are you seriuos? i have a 328i all dressed m sport package and the drive and sound is probably better than most 335 basic packages. both the 328i and 335 are very comparible. if they had such a big differnce i would buy the 335 hands down because price wise i paid the same as a 335 owner with basic options. see it for what it is, most 328 owners chose this model because of the issues not the price. i find the 328 is much more dependable than the 335 and you can still have a very sporty car in looks and performance.
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  #28  
Old 01-09-2012, 09:54 AM
jburke4689 jburke4689 is offline
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Originally Posted by MontrealBimmer View Post
are you seriuos? i have a 328i all dressed m sport package and the drive and sound is probably better than most 335 basic packages. both the 328i and 335 are very comparible. if they had such a big differnce i would buy the 335 hands down because price wise i paid the same as a 335 owner with basic options. see it for what it is, most 328 owners chose this model because of the issues not the price. i find the 328 is much more dependable than the 335 and you can still have a very sporty car in looks and performance.
I bought mine is 2007. It is one of the early ones and this is the first problem I have had. My point is that if I were buying a BMW, that is the one I would buy. My preference. One thing I would say is price wasn't that big an issue for me. I bought it with military pricing. I now pricing is very different in Canada. It may be a much bigger deal. I paid $37K USD. I don't want to get into an argument. I have driven both and I prefer the 335i. Simple as that. I am just trying to pass on my experience in case it helps someone else.

Last edited by jburke4689; 01-09-2012 at 09:57 AM.
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  #29  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:03 AM
MontrealBimmer MontrealBimmer is offline
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the price difference is $5000 here in canada between the basic 328 and the 335. no big deal. my car cost me 51,000 before taxes and with the same options on the 335 the price tag was 57,000. no big deal in price if the 335 was a completely different ride i would buy it. but after driving both i didn't find it was worth the headaches.
ofcourse i also test drove a m3 and that is a completely different car. you can't even come close to comparing the m3 to a 335. it makes me laugh when people find their 335 is similar to the m3. The only reason i didn't opt for the m3 is strictly financial, but if i ever upgraded it would only be an m3. But like everyone who buys a 328 or a 335 especially coupes, the only reason they are not driving m3's is financial, all other excuses are bull****.

Last edited by MontrealBimmer; 01-09-2012 at 10:06 AM.
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  #30  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:42 AM
Squidget Squidget is offline
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Originally Posted by MontrealBimmer View Post
are you seriuos? i have a 328i all dressed m sport package and the drive and sound is probably better than most 335 basic packages. both the 328i and 335 are very comparible. if they had such a big differnce i would buy the 335 hands down because price wise i paid the same as a 335 owner with basic options. see it for what it is, most 328 owners chose this model because of the issues not the price. i find the 328 is much more dependable than the 335 and you can still have a very sporty car in looks and performance.
1) "Most drivers" is untrue. Most drivers know nothing about 328 vs 335 reliability. Most drivers lease every 3 and have a warranty anyway. Most drivers wouldn't know a TIB/SIB if it bit them in the butt.

2) Not sure why you are going on about price. No one said anything about that. The issue was performance.

You don't have to drive a 335 on the track to tell the difference. There's more torque throughout the whole range. It does have a better engine note. AND it's a more moddable engine. AND you get a better AT transmission in the 335, if that's your thing (I drive MT).

Believe me, I would have got a 328 if it was even close. I had to cut my 335's options to the bone to afford it. But after driving both, the 328 wasn't going to cut it. If you want to argue that the 335 isn't worth the price, I can see that.

But to argue that the 328 performs like a 335 is flat-out wrong.

I agree it's a little unfair to compare the 328 to a Camry, tho.
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  #31  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:44 AM
Squidget Squidget is offline
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But like everyone who buys a 328 or a 335 especially coupes, the only reason they are not driving m3's is financial, all other excuses are bull****.
Also untrue. Please stop trolling.
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  #32  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:54 AM
MontrealBimmer MontrealBimmer is offline
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everyone has their own opinion. And my opinion is just that, an opinion and an answer to the inquiry. i'm not trolling buddy. I know the differences between the 2 cars, but the way many make it sound who own 335 is that 328 owners don't know what they are missing with 335's which is crazy. bottom line, any bmw you might have is a great driving machine and for someone to choose a certain model they are driving there is reason behind it.
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  #33  
Old 01-09-2012, 11:16 AM
jburke4689 jburke4689 is offline
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All I wanted to do when I started this thread was to lay out the experience I was having with a dealer in the US as to fixing a problem I was having that seems a little unusual and communicate the fix to the community when it is done so that they will have the information if they experience the same thing. It was not to compare cars or make a value statement on 328 vs. 335. I agree the Camry reference wasn't fair but I got sucked into MontrealBimmer's reply. Sorry everyone. Back on point, I should get my car back today. I will update the thread when I do. Happy driving, boosted or not.
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  #34  
Old 01-09-2012, 11:26 AM
MontrealBimmer MontrealBimmer is offline
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  #35  
Old 01-09-2012, 03:15 PM
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Blubaron79 Blubaron79 is offline
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OP, please let us know what the dealer said. I have been having success with injection cleaner.
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  #36  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:44 AM
Alpine300ZHP Alpine300ZHP is online now
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Originally Posted by Blubaron79 View Post
Actually, yes. Haven't been able to get on the highway as much as I wanted, but it's been doing it a lot less; and with less severity.
Good...it appears we are on the right track. Just run another couple bottles along with a few more high RPM runs and it should eventually clear it all out.
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  #37  
Old 01-10-2012, 12:10 PM
Papillo Papillo is offline
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Originally Posted by MontrealBimmer View Post
How can you compare a Toyota Camry. Are you guys with 335's on some kind of 335 drug? Both cars drive exactly the same with the same options other than the 335 is a little faster on take off. Big deal. Unless your racing everyday I don't see your point. And if you got it to race, most sports cars will smoke you.

I've owned both and from my experience, that statement is far from correct.
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  #38  
Old 01-10-2012, 01:05 PM
jburke4689 jburke4689 is offline
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I picked up my car today. It runs awesome. Sorry MontrealBimmer. After 3 weeks in a 328 I am more sure than ever that there is no comparison. The problem was isolated to the turbo (I will post details and dealer info later). I do agree with MB that if I had the 328 I wouldn't have a turbo "problem" but I also wouldn't have the turbo "joy". An occasional glitch is a small price to pay for such a satisfying daily driver.
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  #39  
Old 01-10-2012, 01:26 PM
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Blubaron79 Blubaron79 is offline
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Originally Posted by jburke4689 View Post
I picked up my car today. It runs awesome. Sorry MontrealBimmer. After 3 weeks in a 328 I am more sure than ever that there is no comparison. The problem was isolated to the turbo (I will post details and dealer info later). I do agree with MB that if I had the 328 I wouldn't have a turbo "problem" but I also wouldn't have the turbo "joy". An occasional glitch is a small price to pay for such a satisfying daily driver.
Yes, please let me know what was wrong with the turbo. Mine seems to be running better, but I am curious if that is not the problem; how much it would cost me as I am just out of warranty.
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  #40  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:38 PM
MontrealBimmer MontrealBimmer is offline
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I get no joy from turbo. I expect reliability at all times.
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  #41  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:00 PM
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64k miles and no turbo problems here!
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  #42  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:27 PM
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Verts4Ever Verts4Ever is offline
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Originally Posted by MontrealBimmer View Post
I get no joy from turbo. I expect reliability at all times.
Not surprising... Quebecois generally are practical folks.

And that's meant as a compliment, not an insult.
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  #43  
Old 01-11-2012, 01:40 PM
BimmerAWD BimmerAWD is offline
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Originally Posted by Alpine300ZHP View Post
This is exactly what contaminated injectors and carbon buildup feel like. Shuddering at idle and stumbling idle are usually carbon buildup rather than injectors.
Sorry for the late reply, finally back from vacation. Alpine, I am experiencing very minor stumbling/shuddering at idle, but only when the car is cold. Once its warmed up, the stumbling/shuddering is nonexistent. This "boost break up" problem just started occurring recently for me (within the last 1-2k miles) and hasn't gotten any worse from initially noticing it. I'm only at 30K miles. The OP stated that his dealer told him that there was a turbo issue and now the car is running great. Another poster said a few bottles of injector cleaner got rid of his problem. I guess its time to bring her in and see what the dealer says, but due to all the replies while I was away, I feel slightly more confident in bringing it in and giving the dealer some options/opinions as to what the cause may be. I'll try and get her in by the end of the week and keep everyone posted on the diagnosis.

P.S. Thanks for all the insight everyone. Very much appreciated This is a great forum and I'm glad to be a member here and ONLY on this forum. Everyone here is very knowledgeable and helpful, especially compared to a certain other forum I once visited and never returned to
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  #44  
Old 01-11-2012, 01:48 PM
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Blubaron79 Blubaron79 is offline
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Originally Posted by BimmerAWD View Post
Sorry for the late reply, finally back from vacation. Alpine, I am experiencing very minor stumbling/shuddering at idle, but only when the car is cold. Once its warmed up, the stumbling/shuddering is nonexistent. This "boost break up" problem just started occurring recently for me (within the last 1-2k miles) and hasn't gotten any worse from initially noticing it. I'm only at 30K miles. The OP stated that his dealer told him that there was a turbo issue and now the car is running great. Another poster said a few bottles of injector cleaner got rid of his problem. I guess its time to bring her in and see what the dealer says, but due to all the replies while I was away, I feel slightly more confident in bringing it in and giving the dealer some options/opinions as to what the cause may be. I'll try and get her in by the end of the week and keep everyone posted on the diagnosis.

P.S. Thanks for all the insight everyone. Very much appreciated This is a great forum and I'm glad to be a member here and ONLY on this forum. Everyone here is very knowledgeable and helpful, especially compared to a certain other forum I once visited and never returned to
My SA said that if it was studdering under light load (highway driving, idiling), then it most likely is caused by some carbon build up. She didn't even suggest I let them look at it. Only if it got worse (it has actually got better with Fuel Cleaner). With you car being so new, I would say that you take it to the dealer.
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  #45  
Old 01-11-2012, 02:01 PM
BimmerAWD BimmerAWD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blubaron79 View Post
My SA said that if it was studdering under light load (highway driving, idiling), then it most likely is caused by some carbon build up. She didn't even suggest I let them look at it. Only if it got worse (it has actually got better with Fuel Cleaner). With you car being so new, I would say that you take it to the dealer.
Its not stuttering under normal highway cruising, only under moderate/harder acceleration when boost first begins to kick in and as I stated, only when the car is idling when cold. Thank you for your advice, I'll be bringing her in by the end of the week. Other than this minor issue, the car has run great, no other issues, and I could NOT be HAPPIER to be back in a BMW. I've missed them dearly since selling my E46.
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  #46  
Old 01-12-2012, 08:40 AM
Alpine300ZHP Alpine300ZHP is online now
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Originally Posted by BimmerAWD View Post
Sorry for the late reply, finally back from vacation. Alpine, I am experiencing very minor stumbling/shuddering at idle, but only when the car is cold. Once its warmed up, the stumbling/shuddering is nonexistent. This "boost break up" problem just started occurring recently for me (within the last 1-2k miles) and hasn't gotten any worse from initially noticing it. I'm only at 30K miles. The OP stated that his dealer told him that there was a turbo issue and now the car is running great. Another poster said a few bottles of injector cleaner got rid of his problem. I guess its time to bring her in and see what the dealer says, but due to all the replies while I was away, I feel slightly more confident in bringing it in and giving the dealer some options/opinions as to what the cause may be. I'll try and get her in by the end of the week and keep everyone posted on the diagnosis.

P.S. Thanks for all the insight everyone. Very much appreciated This is a great forum and I'm glad to be a member here and ONLY on this forum. Everyone here is very knowledgeable and helpful, especially compared to a certain other forum I once visited and never returned to
The problems started for me around 30k miles on my N54 engines so it sounds like you have a carbon buildup problem. It actually starts with the motor being cold and then goes away when the motor warms up. Eventually it will start doing it all of the time. You need to do the stuff I outlined in my previous post (4 bottles of cleaner, 1 high RPM run per week until all cleaner gone). If you do this now then the problem will clear up quickly. You can take it to the dealer, but they will either misdiagnose the problem or tell you that you need a walnut shell blasting. My method is cheap and I suggest you start there. If after 4 tankfuls and at least 6 high RPM runs the problem has not gone away then take it to the dealer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blubaron79 View Post
My SA said that if it was studdering under light load (highway driving, idiling), then it most likely is caused by some carbon build up. She didn't even suggest I let them look at it. Only if it got worse (it has actually got better with Fuel Cleaner). With you car being so new, I would say that you take it to the dealer.
Your SA is right on the money, but 30k miles can result in a significant amount of carbon buildup on a direct injection motor. It starts around 5k and builds to noticeable level around 30k. This is why, on my new N55, I started doing the high RPM runs at 2k miles and do them at least once a month to keep this new motor clean. I do one BMW fuel system cleaner application every 5k miles to keep the injectors clean as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerAWD View Post
Its not stuttering under normal highway cruising, only under moderate/harder acceleration when boost first begins to kick in and as I stated, only when the car is idling when cold. Thank you for your advice, I'll be bringing her in by the end of the week. Other than this minor issue, the car has run great, no other issues, and I could NOT be HAPPIER to be back in a BMW. I've missed them dearly since selling my E46.
See what I said above...you certainly have carbon buildup and need to do what has been previously suggested. A little off topic, but relevant. Those of you out there that have the steptronic are less likely to notice the hesitation. I have owned N54 with 3 pedals and with the steptronic and it is worth mentioning that the hesitation is MUCH more prevalent in the 6MT cars. Must be something about the steptronic programming that hides the hesitation when there is carbon buildup (even though it is still there if you pay close attention). The stumble/shudder at idle happens on all of them but is still more prevalent in the 6MT cars (especially at a light with the clutch out). Just some FYI. If we took a look at the post of people who have the hesitation problem (on bimmerfest) we would find the vast majority of them are 6MT cars.
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Last edited by Alpine300ZHP; 01-12-2012 at 08:45 AM.
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  #47  
Old 01-14-2012, 09:30 AM
BimmerAWD BimmerAWD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine300ZHP View Post
The problems started for me around 30k miles on my N54 engines so it sounds like you have a carbon buildup problem. It actually starts with the motor being cold and then goes away when the motor warms up. Eventually it will start doing it all of the time. You need to do the stuff I outlined in my previous post (4 bottles of cleaner, 1 high RPM run per week until all cleaner gone). If you do this now then the problem will clear up quickly. You can take it to the dealer, but they will either misdiagnose the problem or tell you that you need a walnut shell blasting. My method is cheap and I suggest you start there. If after 4 tankfuls and at least 6 high RPM runs the problem has not gone away then take it to the dealer.



Your SA is right on the money, but 30k miles can result in a significant amount of carbon buildup on a direct injection motor. It starts around 5k and builds to noticeable level around 30k. This is why, on my new N55, I started doing the high RPM runs at 2k miles and do them at least once a month to keep this new motor clean. I do one BMW fuel system cleaner application every 5k miles to keep the injectors clean as well.



See what I said above...you certainly have carbon buildup and need to do what has been previously suggested. A little off topic, but relevant. Those of you out there that have the steptronic are less likely to notice the hesitation. I have owned N54 with 3 pedals and with the steptronic and it is worth mentioning that the hesitation is MUCH more prevalent in the 6MT cars. Must be something about the steptronic programming that hides the hesitation when there is carbon buildup (even though it is still there if you pay close attention). The stumble/shudder at idle happens on all of them but is still more prevalent in the 6MT cars (especially at a light with the clutch out). Just some FYI. If we took a look at the post of people who have the hesitation problem (on bimmerfest) we would find the vast majority of them are 6MT cars.
Thanks for the advice, Alpine. Went out today and bought the cleaner. Getting close to empty so I'll start the regiment today. I'll keep you posted as to any improvements. Thanks again for everyone's help
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  #48  
Old 01-15-2012, 11:08 AM
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Problemeveryday Problemeveryday is offline
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this is why they came up with the N55. i knew 3 people with similar issues to this on their N54. Unfortunately i consider beamers a gamble. you dont know what your gona get. Goodluck hope they fix it. i miss my e46 m3 i should have not sold it. it was so easy to work on unlike these newer models everything is hyraglifs.
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  #49  
Old 01-15-2012, 02:29 PM
slapmypc slapmypc is offline
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While we are talking hesitation, I could use some knowledgeable opinions from you all.
I just experienced several "stumbles" while cruising down the highway. It was on a 300 mile round trip from the Jersey shore to Annapolis, Md and back. The car was at full temp and cruising at a steady 85mph( approx. 3k rpm) on the NJ Turnpike when the stumbles occurred. 3 times over the course of an hour or so. Just a hiccup really, but disturbing all the same. HPFP was done last year at 19k miles. 2009 335i MT with JB+(50%) and DCI. 27k miles. The car has been amazing so far.
Its the 5000 rpm wide torque band that separates the 328 from the 335. It appeals to the hooligan teenager lurking inside us all.
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  #50  
Old 01-15-2012, 09:16 PM
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Blubaron79 Blubaron79 is offline
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While we are talking hesitation, I could use some knowledgeable opinions from you all.
I just experienced several "stumbles" while cruising down the highway. It was on a 300 mile round trip from the Jersey shore to Annapolis, Md and back. The car was at full temp and cruising at a steady 85mph( approx. 3k rpm) on the NJ Turnpike when the stumbles occurred. 3 times over the course of an hour or so. Just a hiccup really, but disturbing all the same. HPFP was done last year at 19k miles. 2009 335i MT with JB+(50%) and DCI. 27k miles. The car has been amazing so far.
Its the 5000 rpm wide torque band that separates the 328 from the 335. It appeals to the hooligan teenager lurking inside us all.
The FI cleaner fixed my car. I never ran any through thinking that it wouldn't work with direct injection. Boy was I wrong... Run a bottle or 2 through, and the hiccup should go away. I had the same exact problem.
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