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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-02-2012, 05:33 PM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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E39 Overheating

Hey everyone,

I'm at a loss. I've replaced the thermostat and refilled my coolant and my car is still overheating. I have a 97 528i with the 2.8L straight 6. There's no oil in my coolant and vice versa. When i stop driving it and its hot it blows anit-freeze steam from the back of the engine bay. I have no idea where its coming from or what could be causing it. After I replaced the t-stat I took it for a drive and it did fine, even sitting in park (when it started overheating before) and it didn't overheat. I went to drive to a friend's and barely made it 2 miles before the temp gauge went high. I have no idea where to go next. A point in the right direction would be extremely helpful! If you need any other info, just ask. Thanks again.
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  #2  
Old 01-02-2012, 05:52 PM
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moots moots is offline
wat's dat noise
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anti freeze steam(coolant) spewing from the rear of the engine is telling you :

1. the cooling system is overpressured
2. you have a loose connection or a tear in the hoses(perhaps the hose that goes to the heater matrix at th bulkhead)

i would bleed the coolant thoroughly.do it when engine is at ambient temp.open both bleed screw and top up slowly till coolant flows out of both bleed port.

check the tightness of the hose connection ie the clamp
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  #3  
Old 01-02-2012, 06:00 PM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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1. If the coolant is over pressured then what would be a solution to that?
2. If that's the case, I'm guessing it would just be a matter of replacing the hoses?

Would it be possible that the water pump is/has died and isnt circulating the coolant so its just sitting and burning up in essence?

Also, where is the bleed screw located? (I'm still learning this car) I don't want to do a full cooling overhaul unless I absolutely have to or is that the route I'm heading towards?
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  #4  
Old 01-02-2012, 06:38 PM
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moots moots is offline
wat's dat noise
Location: Malaysia
 
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overpressured coolant causes:
1. head gasket - causing combustion gasses to pressurise the cooling system.hopefully that's not it.you can do a cylinder pressure test to confirm.
2. air in the cooling system - hence the requirement to bleed

yes it's possible that the water pump is busted.these pumps,where the plastic impellers are fitted,have the tendency to detach itself from the shaft with age.have that checked as well.

the bleed port is located on the top of the radiator and the other,on the thermostat housing.
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Last edited by moots; 01-02-2012 at 06:39 PM.
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  #5  
Old 01-02-2012, 11:06 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zodiacthreat View Post
Also, where is the bleed screw located? (I'm still learning this car)
If you really want to learn about the cooling system, go to the bestlinks thread and do a thread search for "cooling system" and read all the threads that pop up.

For example, the bleed screw link below alone will tell you more about bleed screws in a single thread than you can imagine:

- What to look for when your KTMP (1) or coolant temperature gauge indicates overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) & what to look for in a perfectly normal E39 cooling system (1) & a picture of every failed part in the cooling system (1) & various techniques to properly bleed (1) (2) (3) & refill (1) & drain (1) (2) & flush (1) & what coolant to use (1) & what parts to replace (1) (2) & how to retrofit brass bleeder screws (1) (2) & what special tools to make or buy (1) & how to tell how old your cooling system is (1) (2) & how to test the cooling system auxiliary electrical fan (1) (2) (3) (4) & a DIY for replacing the auxilliary fan (1) (2) (3) & the infamous fuse 75 (1) & the aux fan relay (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1) & a Behr radiator and Behr/Heat expansion tank autopsy (1) (2) & request for another Behr surge tank autopsy (1) & why new made-in-China Behr/Hella expansion tanks are DOA (1) & E39 Fan shroud removal DIY (Besian) (M54) & some of the better cooling system DIYs (cn90 1997-1998 M54TU) (cn90 V8) (aioros '99-03 M54) (Ågent99 '01 530i) (pelican 3-series) (bluebee M54B25) & tricks to replace the fan clutch nut (1) & lower-hose thermoswitch o-ring (1) & to non-destructively remove the heater hoses (1) or radiator nipple (1) or expansion tank nipple (1) (2) or Oetiker clamp (1) or misplaced thermostat wiring loom (1) or broken bleeder screw (1) & modifying the cooling system pressure cap (1), or using propanol-based zero-pressure fluids like NPG+ (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) or all-aluminum cooling system parts by Zionsville (1) (2) (3) aluminum radiators & what happens if you drive one mile too far with an overheated BMW cooling system (1).
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  #6  
Old 01-03-2012, 08:02 AM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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Thank you so much! You've given me a lot of great info to scan over and figure this out. I'll let you guys know what happens now. I think i'm going to do the top radiator hose off test after I try to bleed out the system to see what happens and see if my water pump is even working. Thanks again!

Let you know in a few hours.
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  #7  
Old 01-03-2012, 08:38 AM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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So I just did a couple more things:

1. Spun the fan with the car off and it had very minute resistance, but spins with the car on.
2. I squeezed both the upper and lower rad hoses and I was able to pinch them all the way closed with hardly any effort. This leads me to believe that my water pump is either not working or the heater valve (as i've seen in another thread) is stuck/clogged.

Does this make sense or am I missing something? I'm thinking I might have to replace the water pump.
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  #8  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:10 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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1. Check the rear heater hose (use a mirror).

2. Do an engine compression tests (wet and dry) to r/o blown head gasket.

3. Review all your cooling system service records, any items not yet replaced ---> consider replacing them now before it is too late.
Search forum for info.
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  #9  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:12 AM
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Trebbia Trebbia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zodiacthreat View Post
I'm thinking I might have to replace the water pump.
Let me tell you how bimmers work.

If you overheat them, you destroy them.

So at the first hint of overheating, most owners just replace the water pump, the thermostat, fan clutch & maybe the fan blades if they are cracked, the upper and lower hoses, the overflow hose, clamps for the overflow hose, the expansion tank, and the radiator. Get an o ring for the lower hose sensor and some brass bleeder screws for insurance.

While you're removing these, replace the two belts and tensioners and get a tie wrap for the upper hose wiring to the engine. If your oil filter housing is leaking, now's a good time to replace the $5 gasket. Also a good time to fix the power steering hose dripping on your alternator bearings ($1 fix for the new clamp).

What we know that you don't appear to know is that if you don't replace everything above, you'll just be back in a few months. If you do replace everything, you'll be back in a few years because they just don't last all that long.

If anyone thinks otherwise, they're free to tell you so right here.

That's how bimmers work.
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  #10  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:13 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I forgot to mention that in the mean time, ground the car, don't drive it!
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  #11  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:20 AM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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Good call on the power steering clamp. I've been trying to figure out where its leaking at. Are you talking about the bottom of the reservoir?
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  #12  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:35 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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1. Cooling Overhaul:
http://bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986

(Edit: Fan Blade ---> Use BMW only).


2. OFH Gasket $6 part:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=414315
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  #13  
Old 01-03-2012, 10:47 AM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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Turns out I have a massive coolant leak from the rear of the engine. Only leaks when engine is running. Suggestions?
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  #14  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:04 AM
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bcbp14 bcbp14 is offline
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I had an over pressurization and a heating up only when driving issue when my new faulty water pump lost a few fins
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  #15  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:04 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zodiacthreat View Post
Turns out I have a massive coolant leak from the rear of the engine. Only leaks when engine is running. Suggestions?
How difficult is it to get a mirror/flash light and look?
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  #16  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:13 AM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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With the intake manifold in the way its a royal pain. I've figured out that the leak is definitely coming from up there. There is antifreeze spray on the firewall but it only sprays when the engine starts getting hot.
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:22 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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It is not a royal pain. Get a $3 mirror at Walmart (mirror used for make up) and look.

Likely heater hose leaking.
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2012, 12:48 PM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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I found a tear in a hose!! its on the forward part underneath the intake manifold about 4 or 5 inches back on the motor from where the thermostat housing is. I'm trying to find a part number for it but I can't seem to find it. It connects there and loops down and connects up to the thing to the right of the intake manifold that has a bunch of hoses to it. Its the right of the two hoses that connect on the front.
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  #19  
Old 01-03-2012, 12:55 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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- Remove the Air Mass and Air Intake housing, you should see this:



and:

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  #20  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:01 PM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
- Remove the Air Mass and Air Intake housing, you should see this:


the bottom picture, if you look to the left of the throttle body, the two hoses that connect to the bottom of it, the one closest is the one that I'm talking about. I need the p/n for that one and also, just to verify, coolant does go through there right? If i squeeze that hose where the tear is then I get a little bit of moisture, but not enough to completely identify it.
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  #21  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:29 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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The PN is in realoem.com.
Search for it.


If that is the case, you may as well replace all the heater hoses under the Intake Manifold. When one hose leaks, other hoses will follow soon.
Do it all and do it once.

Don't forget the O-ring on the metal pipe feeding the area just behind the thermostat area.

Another issue: if not already done, do the whole ICV, CCV while there:

Oil Line ---> Vanos, CCV, ICV and Alternator Air Duct (E39)
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225
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  #22  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:36 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Go to realoem.com and plug in the last 7 digits of your VIN to get illustrations and part numbers applicable to your car.

My guess is that the parts you are looking at are #13 and #14 in this link...

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...55&hg=11&fg=35
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  #23  
Old 01-03-2012, 07:23 PM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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It was number 14, got it and installed and no more leak. I drove it around and it did fine, then went and drove it again but this time it creeped up and then went back to normal. I hope there's not something internal too. Blah!!
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  #24  
Old 01-04-2012, 09:14 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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zodiac,

As I mentioned before. You should do a comprehensive overhaul of your cooling system.
Once a hose leaks, the other hoses will follow very soon.
By that time, it may be too late.
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  #25  
Old 01-04-2012, 12:36 PM
zodiacthreat zodiacthreat is offline
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I will have to look in to doing the full overhaul in the near future. Thanks for everyone's help and advice. It's greatly appreciated. Do any of you know about or have experienced one of the door locks not actuating? It won't even unlock with the door handle. Can't open it at all, so my door is locked shut. All the rest work just fine.
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