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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #1  
Old 01-08-2012, 07:47 AM
pattimpeets pattimpeets is offline
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Mein Auto: 328i hardtop
328i hardtop "hardtop not locked"

Picked up new 2012 BMW 328i coupe hardtop convertible yesterday in Dallas. Drove it to Mississippi for a death in family. Drove in driveway and showed my family my new car. Took top down and top up to demonstrate the convertible. Drove car out to in-laws, kids there wanted to see the convertible. I repeated the process bringing top up and down. A couple of hours later i was driving out of the driveway and noticed the warning "hardtop not locked". I stopped car and tried to proceed with taking top down and the greenlight would not go off. If I release button, it blinks red. I tried to put top back up and it appears to bring all the way to closure but green light will not go off and red light blinks. Warning remains the "hardtop is not locked" and the windows, of course, will not roll up nor can I open the trunk with this error. I'm thinking it must be a sensor is bad or something. Any insight or experience will be greatly appreciated. At this point, I only know to take it to a dealer Monday when they open juggling a funeral and trying to get back to Texas after that. Help......
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2012, 09:53 AM
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justinnum1 justinnum1 is offline
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not sure, this isnt the e93 forum...
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2012, 02:14 PM
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Inline Sixer Inline Sixer is offline
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This could only mean it is not shut all the way? Try to make sure each close ends with the clicking sounds.

Otherwise, try stepping out of the car and try to close the top completely using the fob.

PS> This thread should be moved to the E9x forum.
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  #4  
Old 01-08-2012, 05:03 PM
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tim330i tim330i is offline
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Moved over to the E9x forum.

Tim
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2012, 05:43 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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I wonder if turning the car off, and locking it would help clear the error sequence and reset the system.

Maybe try using the metal key in the door lock to actuate the top?

I know that when I'm doing my weekly wash and top seal maintenance, I'll use the metal key in the door to partially open the top. I'll leave it in the half open position, take the key out and do my maintenance then put the key back in and finish the sequence. I've never had any bad effects of stopping things mid sequence and starting them back up again.

OP,
I'm sorry to hear you are having trouble with it especially with all the other stuff going on.
Best of luck in getting it straightened out.
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  #6  
Old 01-09-2012, 01:37 PM
boothguy boothguy is offline
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I second Kat's suggestion. When there were issues with the top on my E93 M3 completely opening on delivery day at Welt, my specialist used the key-in-door-lock procedure to "force" the top to cycle open. Turned out that my problem was that the specialist had set the USA front license plate mount in the "no-go" zone in the trunk while showing me something else. Since yours is a problem with closing and not opening, I'd also vote for it being a problem with a switch somewhere.
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  #7  
Old 01-09-2012, 02:33 PM
AZ_BMW67 AZ_BMW67 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordic_Kat View Post
I wonder if turning the car off, and locking it would help clear the error sequence and reset the system.

Maybe try using the metal key in the door lock to actuate the top?

I know that when I'm doing my weekly wash and top seal maintenance, I'll use the metal key in the door to partially open the top. I'll leave it in the half open position, take the key out and do my maintenance then put the key back in and finish the sequence. I've never had any bad effects of stopping things mid sequence and starting them back up again.

OP,
I'm sorry to hear you are having trouble with it especially with all the other stuff going on.
Best of luck in getting it straightened out.
Hi,

Can you explain more about "Maybe try using the metal key in the door lock to actuate the top?". I've never been able to stop the top in mid-sequence without just stopping to push the button on the key fob (I"ve picked up some good habits about conditioning my seals from Nordic Kat). SA told me that was how to do it (no way to get the top to stop in mid-open close), but I've heard of people getting the top to open half way. It's even in the manual but coudl never get it to work.

I have CA...not sure if that makes a difference.
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  #8  
Old 01-09-2012, 05:05 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ_BMW67 View Post
Hi,

Can you explain more about "Maybe try using the metal key in the door lock to actuate the top?". I've never been able to stop the top in mid-sequence without just stopping to push the button on the key fob (I"ve picked up some good habits about conditioning my seals from Nordic Kat). SA told me that was how to do it (no way to get the top to stop in mid-open close), but I've heard of people getting the top to open half way. It's even in the manual but coudl never get it to work.

I have CA...not sure if that makes a difference.
You take the metal key that resides inside the keyfob out, and physically insert it into the lock on the drivers side door. With mine, turning the key right, opens the top, but you have to keep the key turned as soon as you quit putting pressure on it, the top will stop moving. I usually get the top to a stacked but trunk not open position, then stop do my seal stuff, then put the key back in the lock and continue to a full open position. To close the top, it's the reverse.

As Boothguy mentioned using the key in the door overrides CA or the console switch.
I'll bet Boothguy can verify that it works the same way with CA.
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2012, 04:09 PM
thaight thaight is offline
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I had the same problem. It is the sensor. Took it to dealer and fixed under warranty!
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  #10  
Old 05-14-2014, 10:18 PM
Geouj Geouj is offline
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Originally Posted by thaight View Post
I had the same problem. It is the sensor. Took it to dealer and fixed under warranty!
Would you by any chance know which sensor? or have that receipt?
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  #11  
Old 05-15-2014, 08:09 AM
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BostonB6 BostonB6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thaight View Post
I had the same problem. It is the sensor. Took it to dealer and fixed under warranty!
Would this be the infamous "salmon sensor"?
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  #12  
Old 05-15-2014, 10:51 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Originally Posted by BostonB6 View Post
Would this be the infamous "salmon sensor"?
That's not a sensor. It's a relay that is salmon colored
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  #13  
Old 05-15-2014, 06:52 PM
Geouj Geouj is offline
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So there's actually two of these relays in the trunk, same part number, one for clockwise and the other anti-clockwise.
I tried swapping them out, to see if the system will behave differently, now that the bad relay is in the other slot. It didn't. So unless both relays are bad, this isn't the issue.
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  #14  
Old 05-16-2014, 01:48 PM
Geouj Geouj is offline
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i looked up the status of each of the 15 sensors/microswitches in each position of the system (attached pictures) and their respective P/N and $.
my issue (the annoying sounds, dashboard light and "Hardtop Not Locked!" message on the screen) is only when the top is down.
So a sensors that is supposed to be ON when the top is down, and OFF when the top is up must be malfunctioning; most likely sensor 10 (the smaller sensor in p/n 7).
I repositioned it to purposely not turn ON when i put the top down it, had i gotten the same behavior as when it is correctly positioned, i would've found the problem. The roof package sat in the truck, but the rear module would not go back down as the sensor did not turn on... So this can't be the issue.

The other thing that would explain the symptoms is if one of the sensors/switches works properly but is not getting triggered when the top is down, due to a misalignment or maladjustment. Damn pot holes!
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Last edited by Geouj; 05-16-2014 at 02:24 PM.
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  #15  
Old 05-16-2014, 03:55 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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Well you are closer now then you were before...
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  #16  
Old 05-16-2014, 07:08 PM
hondo402000 hondo402000 is offline
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How about you start with the simple fix, Read Kats top maintenance and get some spray grease and if you can open the top spray some liquid lube in those plunger lock things, it could be a matter of they are just gunned up and cannot move and grease all the other bearing locations too

remember minor to major repair, don't just skip to major first

try it its free!
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  #17  
Old 05-17-2014, 05:51 AM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geouj View Post
i looked up the status of each of the 15 sensors/microswitches in each position of the system (attached pictures) and their respective P/N and $.
my issue (the annoying sounds, dashboard light and "Hardtop Not Locked!" message on the screen) is only when the top is down.
So a sensors that is supposed to be ON when the top is down, and OFF when the top is up must be malfunctioning; most likely sensor 10 (the smaller sensor in p/n 7).
I repositioned it to purposely not turn ON when i put the top down it, had i gotten the same behavior as when it is correctly positioned, i would've found the problem. The roof package sat in the truck, but the rear module would not go back down as the sensor did not turn on... So this can't be the issue.

The other thing that would explain the symptoms is if one of the sensors/switches works properly but is not getting triggered when the top is down, due to a misalignment or maladjustment. Damn pot holes!

Hey give us a URL for those illustrations!

Hall Effect Sensors?
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  #19  
Old 12-31-2014, 12:20 AM
aaronmik aaronmik is offline
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Did you find out what the problem was? I am having the same issue with my 09 335i hardtop. it says its not locked only when top is down
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  #20  
Old 12-31-2014, 11:41 AM
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need4speed need4speed is offline
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Originally Posted by aaronmik View Post
Did you find out what the problem was? I am having the same issue with my 09 335i hardtop. it says its not locked only when top is down
Read Kats post, if it does not solve the issue, it is good base knowledge to build on. N4S
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  #21  
Old 01-02-2015, 06:11 PM
aaronmik aaronmik is offline
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Originally Posted by need4speed View Post
Read Kats post, if it does not solve the issue, it is good base knowledge to build on. N4S
yeah i did all of that, im still having the same problem.
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  #22  
Old 01-03-2015, 11:38 AM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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Have you pulled the codes?
It helps if your issue isn't a relay or hall sensor than that might indicate the electro-hydraulic pack.
Without some codes to guide you are shooting in the dark.

Describe or provide a pic or two of what the top looks like in this condition meaning are the latching pulling but not locking which points more to a sensor or latch adjustment or what is the situation.
Help us help you....
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  #23  
Old 01-04-2015, 12:46 AM
aaronmik aaronmik is offline
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Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
Have you pulled the codes?
It helps if your issue isn't a relay or hall sensor than that might indicate the electro-hydraulic pack.
Without some codes to guide you are shooting in the dark.

Describe or provide a pic or two of what the top looks like in this condition meaning are the latching pulling but not locking which points more to a sensor or latch adjustment or what is the situation.
Help us help you....
How do I pull the codes ? Sorry if it's a stupid question but I'm a little new to this ,

The top opens and closes just fine, when the top is closed everything is good, only when I put the top down and the top folds and closes all the the way the windows don't come back up, and the red light keeps blinking, also and error comes up on my screen saying that the locking procedure hasn't been completed please try opening or closing hardtop before driving, and I wouldn't care as much but of that stupid sound keeps beeping when I drive!
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  #24  
Old 01-04-2015, 09:54 AM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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Well that is actually good news since it doesn't sound like anything but a sensor not making contact because it failed (unlikely) or was somehow bumped out of position. Pulling the codes means getting someone like a good independent BMW shop that has a detailed code reader to pull the actual BMW codes. This is likely to point to the problem which should point to the reason for the not locked. It is not unusual at all for a sensor to get bumped out of position by an owner. Most problems are just this.
So that said have you had anything in the trunk that may have poked into the material of the hard top or anything that was put in the back seat that might have poked into the top? BMW tries to keep these sensors out of the way but they can't completely do so.

Think hard about when this started and if anything you did before that meaning things that might have caused a sensor to get bumped.
Most shops are NOT GOOD at trouble shooting a top but with some research (see the post by Geouj #21) that might point the way.
Failing all other options take the code or codes that come from getting them read and visit the dealer. At least you will be able to show you know what the issue is. You will be charged for diagnostics time maybe $150 and then tell them you will not authorize any work until you see what they suggest. Be careful a lot of dealers are NOT GOOD at solving vert top issues too. Maybe you will have a shop with tech that has been to the top training.
Post what you do to correct this issue...
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  #25  
Old 01-04-2015, 01:51 PM
aaronmik aaronmik is offline
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Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
Well that is actually good news since it doesn't sound like anything but a sensor not making contact because it failed (unlikely) or was somehow bumped out of position. Pulling the codes means getting someone like a good independent BMW shop that has a detailed code reader to pull the actual BMW codes. This is likely to point to the problem which should point to the reason for the not locked. It is not unusual at all for a sensor to get bumped out of position by an owner. Most problems are just this.
So that said have you had anything in the trunk that may have poked into the material of the hard top or anything that was put in the back seat that might have poked into the top? BMW tries to keep these sensors out of the way but they can't completely do so.

Think hard about when this started and if anything you did before that meaning things that might have caused a sensor to get bumped.
Most shops are NOT GOOD at trouble shooting a top but with some research (see the post by Geouj #21) that might point the way.
Failing all other options take the code or codes that come from getting them read and visit the dealer. At least you will be able to show you know what the issue is. You will be charged for diagnostics time maybe $150 and then tell them you will not authorize any work until you see what they suggest. Be careful a lot of dealers are NOT GOOD at solving vert top issues too. Maybe you will have a shop with tech that has been to the top training.
Post what you do to correct this issue...
thanks for the info, i will most likely take it to the dealer, they said its gonna cost 130 for diagnostics, ill get back what dealer tells me.
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