Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-23-2016, 11:54 PM
cn90 cn90 is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,059
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
DIY: 1998 528i (160K miles) Giubo, CSB, Rear CV Joint Re-grease

DIY: 1998 528i (160K miles) Giubo, CSB, Rear CV Joint Re-grease


My car's symptoms and READING List:

1. Noise that I have (similar to marble in a can only when starting off on driveway, either forward or reverse, but not at high speed). In retrospect, it is the grease in the rear CV that liquefied after 160K. So every time to switch direction of the car (forward or reverse), the balls "rattle" inside the CV joint, giving the noise of "marbles in the can". Once new heavy-duty grease is packed, noise is gone!




2. Pelican has a nice DIY on Flex Disc:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm


3. Bavauto has a nice video on Clutch job showing the anatomy of exhaust etc.:




4. Jamaican71 wrote a nice summary of CSB on bimmerforums:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ement-(no-pics)

5. Centering Sleeve Trick:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-how-to-remove
Once the job is done, all noise is gone (dry bearing noise and balls rattle noise). It is all nice and quiet now.

PARTS:
*** Always use realoem.com to verify PNs, as they change from early year 1996-1998 to later years!
*** I buy BMW parts from Husker BMW in Lincoln, Nebraska. Good service and shipping.

1- Giubo: PN 26117511454, BMW is $110; SGF is OEM, so search ebay for Vaico, Febi, if the photos show SGF, then you are OK. Stay away from Meyle (different forums say people are unhappy with Meyle Flex Disc). SGF is about $55 on ebay with free shipping, this is what I get.

2- Centering Sleeve PN 26117526611 ($11), the design is similar to an oil seal.

3- CSB (Center Support Bearing): PN 26121229242. Don't know who makes the bearing for BMW, but since SKF is $55 and BMW dealer price is $67, I bought BMW OEM CSB. This job is so big (mainly because the exhaust bolts break and installing the exhaust as a sole person is a true nightmare, stick to BMW OEM CSB, which should last some 160K. Mine is a very minor crack on the rubber (i.e., no separation of the rubber), but the bearing free-wheels, in the winter, it makes the typical whining noise when cold, after a run, it quiets down, this symptom is very classic of dry bearing noise.

4- Rear CV Joint Gasket: PN 26111229503, I got the BMW OEM gasket for $5. Note the once installed, the pink color side faces you. Not sure this is important or not, but I replicated factory setup. Pack grease at the last minute before installing, see note below.

5- The Exhaust is another story:
* Doing it alone without a 2nd person is a nightmare! I placed floor jack and lowered it bit by bit, it is so time-consuming! Re-installing the exhaust is another nightmare, it takes so long b/c I have to crawl back and forth to adjust the exhaust height and fitment so it bolted into the manifold.
* There are 6 bolts total (3 per manifold). I broke 2 bolts. The internet says get stainless steel bolts/nuts, it makes easier the next time. I agree with that. However, if you buy BMW bolts, it is a nightmare to remove the factory bolts (which have splines and bonded by rust to the manifold, it'd take some serious heat and air chisel to remove them).
*BMW exhaust bolt PN 11621427586, M10 x 1.50 x 40 ($12), I'd not recommend this, instead go for SS bolt, cheaper and better. BMW exhaust Nut PN 18301737774 ($1 at dealer).
* Lowes hardware has what you need: SS bolt is Hillman PN 882090, M10 x 1.50 x 50 (they don't have 40mm length...pack of 5 bolts for $8. SS nut is Hillman PN 8820...pack of 5 nuts for $2.
* Exhaust Gasket PN 18301716888 (you need qty = 2), about $10 each. In a pinch, I re-used the gasket (which was still good) and no exhaust leak at all. But you should get new gasket.

6- Grease for REAR CV Joint: At 160K miles, the grease is now liquefied (similar to maple syrup), no wonder the balls rattle in the cage. I didn't take apart the joint, rather I clean it well with a rag to remove as much as possible. Some people use gasoline to clean it out and dry it.
- To pack new grease, wait until you are ready to install the drive shaft, clean differential input flange and pack grease. Then pack the CV Joint with grease until it fills the joint with a little excess. Whatever you do, do NOT pack too much grease, otherwise the rubber boot may be pushed forward!
- I use Castrol Heavy Duty grease that is used in farm equipment.












PROCEDURE:

*** Torque for Giubo nuts/bolts is about 74 ft-lb.

1. Safety first, think jackstands and wood ramps. Very often you have to put the car in Neutral with hand brake off to rotate the drive shaft to expose the nuts/bolts to be removed, so nothing stops the car from rolling UNLESS:
- Car on Jack stands
- If you use wood ramps like I do, chock the wheels really well. Four (4) layers of wood gives me adequate clearance.


2. The Exhaust is heavy! Best is to have a 2nd person to help. I didn't have a helper, so it was a real struggle with the exhaust, even with floor jacks!









3. The Exhaust is mounted by:
- Manifold Flanges: six nuts total (3 per bank of cylinder)
- A rectangular plate in the middle of the car (4 bolts and 1 nut)
- A mount in the blind end (pass side): two (2) 13-mm nuts
- A mount at muffler near tailpipe: one (1) 13-mm nut
To lower the exhaust, even if you have a helper, use transmission jack or wood or floor jack. Some people say you can leave the flange attached (to avoid breaking the bolts and nuts as I did), and lower the exhaust only half way down, just enough to expose the drive shaft.












4. Below is a pic of drive shaft removed from the car. But always loosen the 18-mm center bolt (that holds the CSB) while the DS is still in the car (car in gear for counterhold purposes). Otherwise, once out of the car, you will find it very difficult to remove the 18-mm bolt if you didn't loosen it first!






5. At the Flex Disc area: pay attention to this photo.
From an engineering standpointů.When engine is running: if you stand in the engine compartment and look, the rotation is CLOCKWISE.
If you look under the car directly at the transmission, then the Trans Output shaft will rotate in COUNTER-CLOCKWISE direction (when the car is going forward). When the car is reversing the Trans output shaft will rotate CLOCKWISE.
In 99.99% of the time, the car goes FORWARD, so the trans output flange sends power ---> Flex Disc THICKER PART ---> to rotate the Drive Shaft. This is why you see arrows on the Flex Disc pointing to the metal side of the flanges. The whole thing is just "common sense".
Remove only the 3 nuts/bolts attaching to the trans. The other 3 nuts/bolts can be removed once the DS is out of the car.






6. Support the Transmission with a scissor jack or floor jack, then remove the Transmission Support (6 bolts, 2 nuts).


7. Exhaust Flange: spray the nuts with PB Blaster 1h ahead, then use a propane torch to heat it well. Even after I did that, I broke 2 studs during removal. During assembly, somehow a single nut holds the Flange really well with no leak (pleasant surprise). But I will take the car to a muffler shop to air chisel the broken studs out (with heat), then replace with stainless steel bolts and nuts (Lowes hardwrae has them).






8. To break loose the Giubo Nut, use a 2-wrench trick, whack it with a rubber hammer. You will need to counter hold with another 18-mm wrench (wedge the wrench against the body of the car).






9. At the REAR CV Joint area, six (6) 16-mm nuts hold them to the diff input side. There is a groove designed for prying the CV Joint apart from the diff. See note above re cleaning old grease and repacking with new heavy-duty grease.






10. The CSB: mark the existing location. Note that the longer part of the mounting flange faces toward the FRONT of the car. I labeled it "L with an arrow".






11. Next step is VERY IMPORTANT: failure to do so will result in a vibration of the DS!!! This is b/c the DS is balanced at the factory using weights (similar to tire balance). This relationship between the 2 halves of the DS must be maintained.
- Mark with whiteout (and whatever you do later, do not allow the white out paint to be removed).
- I marked with a line and a dot as extra insurance.
- To remove the 2 halves, as the 18-mm bolt is loosened, use a wrench to pry against the bolt's head.
This will push the 2 halves apart.






12. To remove CSB, remove the rubber to expose the bearing itself. Then use Bearing Separator + Gear Puller to remove the bearing. Note: I placed a wrench as show to prevent damage to the threads (where the 18-mm bolt goes in).
NOTE: To install new CSB: STOP!!! Make sure the part with the long mount flange goes toward the Giubo side. Then gently tap it in with a 36-mm socket (the same socket used for oil change!). No need for for...halfway in is good enough. Once the 2 halves are installed, the 18-mm centering bolt will draw the bearing in.
- Do NOT forget the Dust Shield!









13. The Centering Sleeve is tricky. See the link above re trick vs special tool.
I simply used a hack saw blade and slowly saw through the outer metal casing of the Centering Sleeve in adjacent parts, then remove the rest. Clean it well before installing new Centering Sleeve. Watch the orientation of the part before installing! If you install it wrong, the removal process will destroy it. The hollow part of the Centering Sleeve faces outward. Once installed, there is about 2-3mm sticking out.
Grease the rubber a bit to ease insertion.









14. "New" DS ready to be installed.






15. Preload the CSB bearing at the very end, ONLY AFTER these are done:
- REAR CV Joint 16-mm nuts are tightened (look up the torque values).
- Giubo nuts/bolts tightened.
- Transmission Support is re-installed and scissor jack (used to support the Trans) is removed.
Now the whole DS is in a neutral position with no strain.
Install the two (2) 13-mm nuts loosely. Watch the existing marks that you made before removal.
Slide the Mounting Flange back and forth a bit to ensure free movement.
When the car goes forward, the twisting motion of the engine pulls the DS forward about 2-4mm.
By preloading the CSB 2-3mm toward the FRONT, when the car is cruising down the highway, the DS is pulled forward a bit, now the rubber mount is in neutral position without the side loading on the bearing itself.
When you sleep at night and the car is parked, the rubber is under a bit of tension b/c of the preloading but not a big deal, rubber can handle that.

That is all boys and girls...Enjoy the quiet ride...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-01.jpg
Views:	671
Size:	170.6 KB
ID:	564434   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-02.JPG
Views:	689
Size:	131.0 KB
ID:	564435   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-03.JPG
Views:	634
Size:	106.9 KB
ID:	564436   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-04.JPG
Views:	684
Size:	88.2 KB
ID:	564437   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-05.JPG
Views:	697
Size:	119.0 KB
ID:	564438  

Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-06.JPG
Views:	655
Size:	91.3 KB
ID:	564439   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-07.JPG
Views:	684
Size:	93.3 KB
ID:	564440   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-08.JPG
Views:	670
Size:	75.1 KB
ID:	564441   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-09.JPG
Views:	664
Size:	141.3 KB
ID:	564442   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-10.JPG
Views:	680
Size:	119.8 KB
ID:	564443  

Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-11.JPG
Views:	699
Size:	91.0 KB
ID:	564444   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-12.JPG
Views:	650
Size:	139.8 KB
ID:	564445   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-13.JPG
Views:	744
Size:	127.5 KB
ID:	564446   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-14.JPG
Views:	675
Size:	74.8 KB
ID:	564447   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-15.JPG
Views:	779
Size:	112.0 KB
ID:	564448  

Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-16.JPG
Views:	663
Size:	105.1 KB
ID:	564449   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-17.JPG
Views:	666
Size:	87.0 KB
ID:	564450   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-18.JPG
Views:	629
Size:	78.2 KB
ID:	564451   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-19.JPG
Views:	659
Size:	133.1 KB
ID:	564452   Click image for larger version

Name:	E39-Driveshaft-20.jpg
Views:	659
Size:	68.1 KB
ID:	564453  


Last edited by cn90; 07-29-2016 at 09:57 PM.
Reply With Quote
Advertisement
  #2  
Old 05-24-2016, 06:11 AM
Barracuz Barracuz is offline
Nothing to read here...
Location: Providence, R.I.
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,273
Mein Auto: 2001 525i 5 spd
Damn CN you work fast!

And very nice write-up.
__________________
The Crappitto-Stockitto-Baseito

**Word of Caution**
My knowledge is limited. Anything I write in my posts may or may not be accurate. To be honest I think its all crap.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-25-2016, 04:35 PM
alex5er's Avatar
alex5er alex5er is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 417
Mein Auto: e39 1997 528i
Thanks for the write up. Changing the transmission this weekend and going to R&R flex disc as well.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-25-2016, 05:21 PM
cn90 cn90 is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,059
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Quote:
Originally Posted by alex5er View Post
Thanks for the write up. Changing the transmission this weekend and going to R&R flex disc as well.
Make sure you replace the CSB and re-grease the Rear CV Joint too!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-25-2016, 05:35 PM
Wgosma's Avatar
Wgosma Wgosma is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: SoCal
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,937
Mein Auto: 2000 528i sport pkg 5spd
Xlnt job and great documentation as usual. I have to say, at age 64 I don't think I'm taking on removing the exhaust system without a helper, and probably only with the car on a lift. Getting old, what to do???
__________________
Bill / Oceanside, CA
00 528i - 5 spd M-Sport
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-25-2016, 08:28 PM
alex5er's Avatar
alex5er alex5er is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 417
Mein Auto: e39 1997 528i
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Make sure you replace the CSB and re-grease the Rear CV Joint too!

Will do. I changed the CSB and flex disc last year but didn't grease the rear cv joint. Definitely will do it this time now that I have the transmission and drive shaft off.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-30-2016, 09:04 AM
cn90 cn90 is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,059
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Below is a similar DIY driveshaft for an E83 X3 model, this guy knew the exhaust bolts would likely break if he removed them, so all he did was dropping the rear part of the exhaust down.

At time marking 3:45, you can see that he left the exhaust attached only at the flanges at the front! Can't believe you can let the exhaust hang only at the flanges w/o breaking the flange!
Personally, I'd support the rear end of the exhaust with a few pieces of wood etc.
The nice thing about this technique (dropping only the rear of the exhaust) is you avoid broken studs like I did.


Last edited by cn90; 07-29-2016 at 09:53 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-30-2016, 11:05 AM
deyrag deyrag is offline
Registered User
Location: CT
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 75
Mein Auto: 1998 528i
I must have got lucky when i did mine. i removed the whole exhaust as i wanted to pressure wash the whole underside with the heat shields out of the way. I balanced it on a floor jack to get it out from underneath and it was HEAVY.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-31-2016, 06:45 AM
energizedmortal's Avatar
energizedmortal energizedmortal is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Manhattan, New York
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 893
Mein Auto: 2003 530i
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Below is a similar DIY driveshaft for an [b]E83 X3 model[b], this guy knew the exhaust bolts would likely break if he removed them, so all he did was dropping the rear part of the exhaust down.

At time marking 3:45, you can see that he left the exhaust attached only at the flanges at the front! Can't believe you can let the exhaust hand only at the flanges w/o breaking the flange!
Personally, I'd support the rear end of the exhaust with a few pieces of wood etc.
The nice thing about this technique (dropping only the rear of the exhaust) is you avoid broken studs like I did.

Thanks for the tip I already replaced the giubo but need to replace the csb and grease the rear cv joint asap.

Last edited by energizedmortal; 05-31-2016 at 06:47 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-04-2016, 07:57 AM
cn90 cn90 is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,059
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Couple thoughts and update before I forget...

1. The middle U-joints (near the CSB): At 160K, they are still good with no play.
These joints are not available in the aftermarket, so if they go, you likely need a new driveshaft.
However, after studying the design, it appears to me that if one neglects the CSB and allows the rubber to tear completely (you will hear flopping sound under the trans tunnel b/c the DS flops around), the middle U-joints will flop around and work so hard (twisting back and forth millions of times), they will wear out quickly.
So at 150K+ or so, do the whole thing as in this DIY, it is simply good practice to keep the DS lasting forever.
With proper maintenance, the middle U-joints should last 300K easily.

2. The Giubo: mine has very very slight surface cracks, in theory it should last 200K but I replaced it anyway. simply b/c I don't want to do this job ever again (simply b/c of the broken exhaust studs, see the other thread on broken studs!).

3. The CSB: no matter what, replace it at 150K+: see above.

4. The REAR CV Joint: this should last the life of the car if properly cared for, which is re-greasing every 150K or so.
Food for thought: if one does not want to remove the exhaust to grease the REAR CV Joint, I wonder if one could loosen the rear diff just enough to pry the Rear CV apart insitu.
Then use a needle grease gun to inject some grease into the joint.
Then reattach the nuts.
I wonder if anyone knows any trick to re-grease the REAR CV joint WITHOUT dropping the exhaust, please post!

5. Lastly, the single most important thing of this whole project: mark you driveshaft before taking it apart.
Mark in multiple places and label them 1, 2, 3 etc. to avoid confusion.
Or scribe it to avoid washing off the whiteout paint.
If you fail to mark the DS before taking it apart, you WILL regret!!!

My car is smooth like butter now.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-18-2016, 05:17 AM
gmak2012's Avatar
gmak2012 gmak2012 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Ottawa, Canada
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 946
Mein Auto: E60:M5 530xi E39:540 528
One comment to this otherwise excellent DIY.

No need to use a hacksaw to remove the centering sleeve at the tranny end of the driveshaft. Put water or grease in the hole and use a dowel that fits snuggly inside the centering sleeve; and, use a deadblow hammer on the dowel. The pressure into the grease or water will push the centering sleeve out. And, IIRC, the 'official BMW' extension of the centering sleeve is 5mm (sticking out). But if you use a sharpie to colour the exposed part of the old centering sleeve, it will give you an idea of how far this is.

Last edited by gmak2012; 08-18-2016 at 05:18 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-13-2016, 12:28 PM
javarithms javarithms is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: WA
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 231
Mein Auto: '13 E92 M3, '03 530iA
@CN90

Would you recommend going with the Febi CSB? It's considerably cheaper than the genuine one.

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2869909/
Reply With Quote
Reply

See More Related BMW Stories


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2015 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms