Boosting

Is any one boosting there 02 325i

I have an '04 325i and am researching it.

why?

Depends on where you`re from....in some neighborhoods, "boosting" means "stealing"....

(but we`re assuming you mean "Forced Induction")

Malibu will tune you up on the FI situation....

Originally Posted by Fast Bob

Depends on where you`re from....in some neighborhoods, "boosting" means "stealing"....

That one made me laugh! Funny!

I have a 2000 328i that's currently supercharged. What kind of info would you like to know Adrian?

Originally Posted by adrian24

Is any one boosting there 02 325i

Check out e46turbo330ci.com for some useful info. Its a guys blog about building his own turbo kit.

Sent from my SGH-T679 using Bimmer

Originally Posted by Wayne's World

Check out e46turbo330ci.com for some useful info. Its a guys blog about building his own turbo kit.

Sent from my SGH-T679 using Bimmer

That's bluejeansonfire's website I believe he has a 330i. I dont believe there is anything but sc available for the 2.5L.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Bimmer App

Originally Posted by Gryphon

That's bluejeansonfire's website I believe he has a 330i. I dont believe there is anything but sc available for the 2.5L.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Bimmer App

Well....OP hasn't returned so maybe he tried to "Boost" his car an blew himself up or perhaps Bob was right and he was really just "boosting" (stealing) one.

Originally Posted by Gryphon

That's bluejeansonfire's website I believe he has a 330i. I dont believe there is anything but sc available for the 2.5L.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Bimmer App

Yup and from my understanding his car doesn't work right now either .

Where did the OP go?

If you're looking to add some additional power, ESS has a great kit for you. The ESS Supercharger is actually a Twin Screw system so you can gain some much needed lower end USABLE torque. A centrifugal supercharger system is great for high end power, but it really lacks the low end torque which is really more usable for the street. For the TS1 system, which is the stage 1 system, you'll be looking at 285 horsepower, and then 250ftlbs of torque. If you wanted to step up and go with TS2, the stage 2 variant, you'll be looking at 320Horsepower and 280ftlbs of torque.

Let me know what you think, but I've got a twin screw on my second car, and my god is it just so usable, and the sound of it is also worth your hard earned cash

Feel free to PM/Email or call me for more details at 714.582.3330 extension 8002, or ask for Jurrian.

The 3 main "bolt on" options for the 325i. All of these are reputable companies.

VF Engineering Stage 1 SC
$4,800.
6PSI boost, no intercooler Vortech SC
285 HP/231lbs ft torque

ESS TS 1 SC (stage 1)
$5,200.
7PSI boost, Twin Screw SC, no intercooler
285HP (+100), 250lbs ft torque

ActiveAutowerke Stage 2 (don't show a stage 1) two stage options with different blowers
$5,200-$5,800.
8 PSI boost, air to air intercooler,
330HP, 266lbs ft torque

All are 6-12 hour install and fully reversible.

^^
And if he wants AA or VF I can get him a good deal. As for "all are upgradable" comment I just wanted to clearify that the VF kit is not upgradable. Extreme custom work is needed to create an intercooler kit.

Originally Posted by MalibuMafiaV

^^
And if he wants AA or VF I can get him a good deal. As for "all are upgradable" comment I just wanted to clearify that the VF kit is not upgradable. Extreme custom work is needed to create an intercooler kit.

...and you would certainly know all about that

Originally Posted by djstrachan

...and you would certainly know all about that

LOL indeed

Okay, okay, OP has left the building so I'll bite.

Besides the $4800-$5800 hit for the FI system itself, what else is needed as far as advisable tranny mods, subframe reinforcement, BBKs, cooling, differential, assorted bushings, spark, injection, ECU, etc.?

Originally Posted by Scottji

Okay, okay, OP has left the building so I'll bite.

Besides the $4800-$5800 hit for the FI system itself, what else is needed as far as advisable tranny mods, subframe reinforcement, BBKs, cooling, differential, assorted bushings, spark, injection, ECU, etc.?

Personally for me I would do a BBK just for that added safety.

If you're really paranoid, in which I would be, It's a decently sized investment you're turning your E46 into, I would go with some sort of subframe reinforcement and if you haven't done all the bushings, might as well do those anyway (even if you don't go S/C). Spark plugs, injectors and ECU tunes usually come with the superchargers, which is what ESS does, so you'll be set from the start.

Originally Posted by ModBargains III

Personally for me I would do a BBK just for that added safety.

If you're really paranoid, in which I would be, It's a decently sized investment you're turning your E46 into, I would go with some sort of subframe reinforcement and if you haven't done all the bushings, might as well do those anyway (even if you don't go S/C). Spark plugs, injectors and ECU tunes usually come with the superchargers, which is what ESS does, so you'll be set from the start.

All the kits I mentioned come with everything reuired for the SC install....hoses, belts, pullies, high-flow injectors, ecu software etc.

I would likely put 330i brakes on the fronts of my 325 if I were to SC but unless you are tracking or street racing, I can't see the need for much else, as long as the engine is well maintained with moderate mileage and all preventtive maintenance is up to date (cooling system in particular).

Edit...Caveat - I have sport suspension and Hotchkis anti-sways. If you have stock suspension, it may be wise to beef up the conrering ability somewhat.

Originally Posted by djstrachan

All the kits I mentioned come with everything reuired for the SC install....hoses, belts, pullies, high-flow injectors, ecu software etc.

I would likely put 330i brakes on the fronts of my 325 if I were to SC but unless you are tracking or street racing, I can't see the need for much else, as long as the engine is well maintained with moderate mileage and all preventtive maintenance is up to date (cooling system in particular).

Edit...Caveat - I have sport suspension and Hotchkis anti-sways. If you have stock suspension, it may be wise to beef up the conrering ability somewhat.

From the pic by your name, I think you and I have the exact same car. Same color, sedan, same wheels, sport pkg.

My biggest concern would probably be driveline issues, such as a tranny/clutch designed to handle 184hp suddenly getting hit with 285+ hp. I've heard it's good to get a different flywheel and clutch package to handle the added hp. If so, that adds at least $1k to the cost.

Originally Posted by Scottji

From the pic by your name, I think you and I have the exact same car. Same color, sedan, same wheels, sport pkg.

My biggest concern would probably be driveline issues, such as a tranny/clutch designed to handle 184hp suddenly getting hit with 285+ hp. I've heard it's good to get a different flywheel and clutch package to handle the added hp. If so, that adds at least $1k to the cost.

Eventually it does but no need to change out the clutch until it starts to go which could be years away - depending on your driving habits and how often you "launch" the car.

I don't think the added HP is an issue for a manual tranny but I'm not sure I would do this if I had a slush box.

Originally Posted by djstrachan

[/B]
Eventually it does but no need to change out the clutch until it starts to go which could be years away - depending on your driving habits and how often you "launch" the car.

I don't think the added HP is an issue for a manual tranny but I'm not sure I would do this if I had a slush box.

The stock clutch won't last very long with ~320hp. The clutch was obviously designed for power figures that are close to stock output; I'd say the stock clutch can probably take 250ish without major slipping.

Get a twin screw and have fun with it, you'll notice the clutch begin to slip In no time.

Also, for what its worth, FI via turbo is a more cost efficient and better returning method. Assuming e46 turbo manifolds are rather easy to get, you should be able to piece your kit together for around 4k, assuming the tuning doesn't exceed ~1200 and the turbo doesn't exceed 800ish.

Don't forget with any boost, you should ARP stud the head, and consider using a thicker HG/lower compression (this is even more essential if you turbo).

Besides, who doesn't love the whistle of a gt35r?

Originally Posted by djstrachan

[/B]
Eventually it does but no need to change out the clutch until it starts to go which could be years away - depending on your driving habits and how often you "launch" the car.

I don't think the added HP is an issue for a manual tranny but I'm not sure I would do this if I had a slush box.

Well I had my kit in with only 6psi on my auto trans for over a year now and it's a ok. But I did explode a differential. I got a 3.64 instead when I replaced it and its nice now.
Now that it's at 8psi because of the intercooler install I put a smaller pulley on to compinsate for psi loss. It seems to be running a lot better w/ proper cooling.

As for lowering compression ratio etc... You should be fine with 8psi or lower on stock compression. Although I would recommend new rings on the pistons and metal head gasket. But it isn't needed as long as your compression and leak down test goes well.

After I put in my headers soon I realize that it'll increase the hp and torque by about 30. So I will most likely put a bigger pulley back on to keep it around 363whp. If I were to put those headers in... I may exceed 400whp and that's not to safe lol.

After I put in my headers soon I realize that it'll increase the hp and torque by about 30. So I will most likely put a bigger pulley back on to keep it around 363whp. If I were to put those headers in... I may exceed 400whp and that's not to safe lol.

Malibu,

That has to be the first post I have read on this forum where someone is actually worried about getting too much HP and torque out of an e46.

VF Engineering claims that they chose 6PSI as the threshold to boost the stock engine with no concerns over damage or long term effects and without the need for additional cooling.

ESS goes to 7PSI without a cooler and AA is 8PSI but has an intercooler.

None of these claim the need for altering/re-enforcing the stock engine and claim no long term damage will be done. OF course, none of them warranty the engine either

Originally Posted by djstrachan

Malibu,

That has to be the first post I have read on this forum where someone is actually worried about getting too much HP and torque out of an e46.

VF Engineering claims that they chose 6PSI as the threshold to boost the stock engine with no concerns over damage or long term effects and without the need for additional cooling.

ESS goes to 7PSI without a cooler and AA is 8PSI but has an intercooler.

None of these calim the need for altering/re-enforcing the stock engine and claim no long term damage will be done. OF course, none of them warranty the engine either

Yeah. Basically if you kept it at 6psi you could put the kit on a 200k mile engine and be totally fine. As long as the compression and leak down test went well.

Lol @ not wanting to much HP. Well I just can't risk exploding anything considering it's my daily. But right now I run 8psi w/ intercooler. I'll probably bump it down to 6psi after the headers.

Originally Posted by djstrachan

Malibu,

That has to be the first post I have read on this forum where someone is actually worried about getting too much HP and torque out of an e46.

VF Engineering claims that they chose 6PSI as the threshold to boost the stock engine with no concerns over damage or long term effects and without the need for additional cooling.

ESS goes to 7PSI without a cooler and AA is 8PSI but has an intercooler.

None of these calim the need for altering/re-enforcing the stock engine and claim no long term damage will be done. OF course, none of them warranty the engine either

Really, the life of a boosted motor is in the hands of the owner. They need more maintenance, more inspecting, and more love.

The ESS kit is probably hardest on the motor because the boost comes in so fast. While the centrifugal chargers largely do nothing below 3500 rpm. In other words, drive it normal and it will act almost stock.

They key to any power adder being "reliable" is building the fuel system and DME to match the power adder. No way Id do anything without beefing up the fuel deliver. You want to avoid leaning out at all costs. Lean out and boom, bye bye head gasket

[QUOTE=smolck;6583926]Really, the life of a boosted motor is in the hands of the owner. They need more maintenance, more inspecting, and more love.

The ESS kit is probably hardest on the motor because the boost comes in so fast. While the centrifugal chargers largely do nothing below 3500 rpm. In other words, drive it normal and it will act almost stock.

They key to any power adder being "reliable" is building the fuel system and DME to match the power adder. No way Id do anything without beefing up the fuel deliver. You want to avoid leaning out at all costs. Lean out and boom, bye bye head gasket[/QUOTE]

All of these manufacturers speak to this which is why the kit includes updated software and high-flow injectors. They claim these measures have "safety" features to eliminate the chance of detonation.