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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-01-2012, 12:52 PM
YVR CANUCK YVR CANUCK is offline
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2007 335i Engine Overheating

Hi ALL

I have an ‘overheating’ engine issue on my 2007 335i.

I was driving the car as normal yesterday PM and suddenly I get a warning ding on my dash and the engine overheat symbol appears after which the car slows down, no response to gas pedal. I pull over and switch off car and wait a few minutes. After stopping for 5-10mins restart the car all appears normal and I make it home. This morning same thing happened again after approx 20mins of driving.

I did a search on the board a lot of the posts point to coolant issues but I did not get any low coolant warning and I have checked the coolant reservoir manually all appears ok. Only thing that appears a little different is that I noticed the oil temp a little high compared to where I normally see the needle.

I have contacted the dealer but they can’t get me in til next week so in the mean time is there anything else I can check myself?

Appreciate any advice.
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  #2  
Old 02-01-2012, 01:52 PM
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Orient330iNYC Orient330iNYC is online now
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check to see if your cooling fan is working.

if you are OK at highway speeds, but overheat when driving slower, this might point to a cooling fan failure.

also could be a failed pump.
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2012, 02:07 PM
YVR CANUCK YVR CANUCK is offline
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You might be onto something there, the first 15mins of my commute is on the highway, steady 100KM per hr, the issue only happened once i was driving on normal streets. I did notice that the oil temp needle was pretty much rooted to the starting position and only started moving once I was off the highway.

I assume in order to check if cooling fan is running it is just a matter of opening hood and see if it is spinning (assuming it is visible) OR is it more of just listening for it.

Thx Orient
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  #4  
Old 02-01-2012, 02:24 PM
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DSXMachina DSXMachina is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YVR CANUCK View Post
You might be onto something there, the first 15mins of my commute is on the highway, steady 100KM per hr, the issue only happened once i was driving on normal streets. I did notice that the oil temp needle was pretty much rooted to the starting position and only started moving once I was off the highway.

I assume in order to check if cooling fan is running it is just a matter of opening hood and see if it is spinning (assuming it is visible) OR is it more of just listening for it.

Thx Orient
You can open the hood and listen for it. Don't open any cooling system caps. If you don't hear it, turn on your AC to max cool. Did it then come on? If it doesn't come on within 10 seconds turn your AC off immediately.
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:40 PM
YVR CANUCK YVR CANUCK is offline
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Ok I just dived out to car park and tried ur sugesstion DSX.

The fan appears to be working, I cranked up AC and it seemed to get louder/faster

Is the fan actually located towards the front of the car near the grill?
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2012, 04:26 PM
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DSXMachina DSXMachina is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YVR CANUCK View Post
Ok I just dived out to car park and tried ur sugesstion DSX.

The fan appears to be working, I cranked up AC and it seemed to get louder/faster

Is the fan actually located towards the front of the car near the grill?
Yes, that's where it is. Are you saying that the fan was also running BEFORE you turned on the AC, or not until?
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2012, 04:34 PM
YVR CANUCK YVR CANUCK is offline
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DSX

To be 100% honest I could not really tell 100% if it was ON before I turned on AC thus I turned on AC and then I could defintely tell it was running.

If it is important to determine its status PRIOR to turning on AC I can check again.

Thx for your help again.
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  #8  
Old 02-01-2012, 08:54 PM
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Orient330iNYC Orient330iNYC is online now
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the fan is behind the radiator, just in front of the engine.

i had a fan relay fail over the summer. had to keep the car moving over 40mph to keep from overheating, had to choose my route home very carefully to keep the car cool enough to not go into limp mode. when the car was moving fast enough to push air through the radiator, it was fine, once i slowed down to local street speed, the temp would creep up.




(i forgot the max cool test)

with the engine running, putting the a/C to max cool will cause the cooling fan behind the radiator to kick on. you'll see it spinning. be careful, dont touch the fan unless the engine is COLD, it can kick on any time the engine is hot, even if the engine is off.
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  #9  
Old 02-01-2012, 10:21 PM
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DSXMachina DSXMachina is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YVR CANUCK View Post
DSX

To be 100% honest I could not really tell 100% if it was ON before I turned on AC thus I turned on AC and then I could defintely tell it was running.

If it is important to determine its status PRIOR to turning on AC I can check again.

Thx for your help again.
I think that Oient is correct in his diagnosis based on the information you posted. An engine which overheats when idling or driving slowly or in stop and go traffic, but which runs cool on the highway, invariably has a non-functional fan.

The fan is electric powered and we now know that it works because it came on when you turned the AC on. The same fan is needed to cool the AC condenser located in front of the radiator and the fan will come on immediately after the ac compressor kicks in. Yours did. The fan motor works. Good.

But why isn't it turning on when you are driving? There is a possible reason we don't even want to consider, and that's a blown head gasket. For somewhat complicated reasons some engines will show a normal temperature gauge and not activate the fan if the cooling system becomes airbound and that happens with gasket failure. I don't think that's your problem because you didn't mention skips, misses or rough running.

So I'm going to guess that one of two things is bad. Either the relay (as Orient posted) is bad, or the temperature sensor is bad. Your car (I'm unsure) may have a fan switch instead of a temperature sensor but the result is the same, no fan activation.

What I would do is check what the computer thinks the temperature is. If it says -40 I know immediately that the sensor is kaput, but it may register, say, 125 when the actual temperature is 225 due to a bad resistor in the sensor. You can't do that so you will need to take the car to someone who can.

This same person may be able to command the fan to come on thru the computer. If so that narrows the fault diagnosis down. If not, there may be a code set (which won't turn on the Check Engine light) which will help isolate the cause. I wish I could give you a simple answer, but while this problem is relatively simple to solve it's not something that you will probably be able to do yourself.

Expect to pay up to an hour's diagnosis time (I would bill probably .5hr but we specialize in cooling system work and are fast at it). Parts and their installation labor will add to the bill. The cheapest part would be the relay, then the sensor/switch, the most expensive one would be a body control module. Tests need to be done.

Last edited by DSXMachina; 02-01-2012 at 10:22 PM.
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  #10  
Old 02-02-2012, 06:03 AM
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DSXMachina DSXMachina is offline
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OP, you're not by any chance confusing the blower fan which pushes the air out of the vents in the passenger area, with the radiator fan located near the front bumper are you?
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  #11  
Old 02-02-2012, 08:01 AM
mbsl98 mbsl98 is offline
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I would think that OP's comment about oil temp might be a clue. His oil temp shouldn't be at the bottom of guage if he is running a steady highway speed. Suggests an issue with temp sender, which would also create an issue with fan turn-on?
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  #12  
Old 02-02-2012, 10:23 AM
YVR CANUCK YVR CANUCK is offline
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Hey Guys

Firstly thx for all input.

DSX: The fan I was referring to in my earlier posts yesterday was the one near the front bumper.

Orient: Your scenario from last summer is very similar to what I am experiencing; highway driving the temp needle barely moves as soon as I am driving at lower speeds it creeps up pretty fast. At approx 90C on oil temp gauge the engine overheat warning comes on.

I decided to leave the car at home today, don’t really want to drive it in case I cause further damage.

I got it booked into the dealership on Monday. I will post back and let you guys know what they find. I purchased an Extended Warranty plan when I purchased the car, hopefully whatever it is… is covered under plan.

Thx Again
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  #13  
Old 02-02-2012, 07:39 PM
YVR CANUCK YVR CANUCK is offline
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Hey Guys

Curiosity got the better of me ...

So I took another look at the fan, and performed the test with AC MAX, but this time I took a flashlight with me to ensure I could see the fan as opposed to attempting to hear it. Well you guys are right initially the fan was OFF then I turned AC to MAX and it was still OFF.

So does that point to fan relay or thermostat?

Thx
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  #14  
Old 02-02-2012, 07:55 PM
kmorgan_260 kmorgan_260 is offline
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Something is amiss with the oil temp gauge because 90C (194F) is cool for that engine. You should not be getting the overheat warning at that temp.
In any case your warranty should cover this issue.

Good luck.
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  #15  
Old 02-03-2012, 09:42 AM
YVR CANUCK YVR CANUCK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmorgan_260 View Post
Something is amiss with the oil temp gauge because 90C (194F) is cool for that engine. You should not be getting the overheat warning at that temp.
In any case your warranty should cover this issue.

Good luck.
Ur right Kmorgan I thought that was weird aswell.

The Oil Temp gauge on dash starts at 0C mid point is 100C and max is 200C, so I was also confused why at only 90C I got engine over heat warning. I assumed there was a direct correlation between Oil Temp and Engine Temp.....maybe not ????
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  #16  
Old 02-03-2012, 10:43 AM
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Orient330iNYC Orient330iNYC is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YVR CANUCK View Post
Ur right Kmorgan I thought that was weird aswell.

The Oil Temp gauge on dash starts at 0C mid point is 100C and max is 200C, so I was also confused why at only 90C I got engine over heat warning. I assumed there was a direct correlation between Oil Temp and Engine Temp.....maybe not ????
either high oil temp or high coolant temp can trigger the overheat warning.

my oil temp gauge barely pegged over mid way when my car went into shutdown mode.
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  #17  
Old 02-03-2012, 05:24 PM
kmorgan_260 kmorgan_260 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orient330iNYC View Post
either high oil temp or high coolant temp can trigger the overheat warning.

my oil temp gauge barely pegged over mid way when my car went into shutdown mode.
I have heard that can happen. Too bad there isn't a coolant temp gauge in addition to the oil temp gauge. I have heard you can program coolant temp to show in the digital display, but why BMW didn't just put a coolant gauge like every other car is a mystery to me.
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  #18  
Old 02-06-2012, 12:17 PM
YVR CANUCK YVR CANUCK is offline
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UPDATE

Dropped car off at dealer this AM just got a call from my SA, they need to replace the WATER PUMP. Dealership cost approx $1100 CAD. Will be covered by extended warranty....relief !!!!

Thx again for all your guys input in diagnosing issue last week.
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  #19  
Old 02-06-2012, 03:01 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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How many miles on your car do you have, sorry kms do you have?
Water pump failing is the first thing I suspected but wanted to hear what BMW said. The electric pumps are actually a truly terrific idea as long as the design is up to the task of being reliable.
I have not read about too many pump failures but they are out there and your car is dead when the pump is dead...
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  #20  
Old 02-06-2012, 03:09 PM
YVR CANUCK YVR CANUCK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
How many miles on your car do you have, sorry kms do you have?
Water pump failing is the first thing I suspected but wanted to hear what BMW said. The electric pumps are actually a truly terrific idea as long as the design is up to the task of being reliable.
I have not read about too many pump failures but they are out there and your car is dead when the pump is dead...
Approx. 72000KM
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  #21  
Old 07-30-2014, 12:43 PM
wazm01 wazm01 is offline
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BMW 335xi 2007

Hello everyone, first of all thank you very much for such useful and helpful information. I think I am in the same boat as many of you have posted here. I just had question to see if I am right or wrong so please provide a little guidance based on your knowledge, anything is appreciated. My 335xi 07 is also turning off after driving about a mile or less but the car was perfectly fine till someone taped into my front bumper few days ago in a parking lot. It was a very minor accident so I drove off the scene and used the highway to get home (70mph). the car didn't turn off or over heat at that time but the next morning when I drove it in the city the car over heated and turned off. The insurance said that it can't be caused by such a small accident. I wanted to know if you guys think that the impact was enough to cause this disfunction in the car so i can put up a fight with the insurance company. The car has never been in an accident and is very clean. I look forward to your input. Thanks
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  #22  
Old 07-30-2014, 01:43 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Regardless if the accident caused the problem, you didn't get a police report.

With no evidence of the accident, insurance will deny your claim.
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  #23  
Old 07-31-2014, 08:17 AM
Miller335 Miller335 is offline
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Wow bimmerfest is slippin.
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