Battery Replacement in BMW E60 5 series – DIY

It used to be that when your battery got old or failed you’d go to the store, get a similar cranking power, and pop it in. Fast and cheap. Today, with a modern BMW that has an iDrive knob that controls and monitors lots of electronics, and a computer module that adjusts the alternator current to match the battery type and use characteristics, you need to take much more care in changing your battery. My 2004 530i with 55k miles was over 8 years old with the original BMW battery. So, I decided to replace it before it fails even though it never gave me a problem, yet. I’ve posted a few pics on the batteries and jumping the car, and you can zoom in for specific details.

The best way to do this, if you don’t have a battery programming tool, is to take it to the dealer for the replacement. From various posts, the cost averages about $500, which is $250 for the OEM BMW battery and $250 for the installation and programming. Some say the programming alone can be as low as $100 if you do the rest yourself, but dealers seldom let you leave with a bill of only $100. After researching numerous posts on the web (and there are many, with various opinions), I decided to buy a battery that is an almost exact match to my OEM, and install it myself. I’ve read that if you match the same battery type and size, battery programming may not be a big issue. I doubt anyone knows how much of an affect variations in battery age or use have on the need for programming. I suspect it’s not a big reason for programming. I’ve read (unconfirmed) that the computer module has a learning function that adjusts to the use of the new battery over time.

A few people suggested you should keep a continuous charge in the system as you replace the battery so it doesn’t lose data or trigger error codes in iDrive. So, I jumped my BMW with another battery while I was replacing the old battery, so my car would not lose power or any settings. My BMW manual says jumping the car is ok (see pics). It worked perfectly and was easy to do. You jump the battery system with jumper cables from under the hood, whereas you change the old battery in the trunk. I’ve read you can buy a “settings keeper” battery device that plugs into the lighter, but I didn’t pursue that route and can’t verify if it works.

Batteries are rated by whether they are AGM (electrolyte is suspended in Absorbed Glass Mats) or standard Flooded Lead-Acid (FLA, but you won’t see that term on the label), ranking Amps (CA, at 32 degrees F), Cold Cranking Amps (CCA, at 0 degrees F), Reserve Capacity (RC), and Amp Hours (Ah). Most batteries don’t show Ah, but my OEM did. My BMW OEM is no longer made. It was a Banner (Austria), 900 CCA, 900 CA, 160 RC and 90 Ah, AGM type, that lasted 8 years and was still ticking. After research, I went to Autozone and for $155 bought a Duralast H8-AGM, which is an exact size AGM replacement with 850 CCA and 975 CA, RA 170. Popping it in my car was no problem, but first I hooked up the jumper cables under the front hood to keep the power on. It’s a little heavy and awkward to move in and out, but it fits exactly. It also hooks perfectly to my OEM vent hose, with a hole on the left, but since there is also a hole on the right on the Duralast I covered that side with tape. Tools: 10mm and 13mm sockets, with a small extension, and about 30 minutes if you don’t stop to take pictures.

There are so many good posts out there on: the exact sizes of BMW OEM batteries; the operating difference between AGM and standard FLA batteries; the way to turn off an “active steering” error (if you have active steering, which I do, but didn’t keep your system powered), and other useful posts. I don’t know if someone has described a detailed E60 battery install with all pictures (it’s not very difficult), but you can see a similar install for a 1998 528i E39 at this link and it’s almost the same as for the E60, except my recommendation for the battery jump on an E60. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1162887
The E39 doesn’t have iDrive, and I believe it doesn’t have the complex alternator charge management system that the E60 does. Incidentally, if your E60 does not have an AGM battery, Autozone sells a standard FLA battery that is the same power and size as the H8-AMG, part number Duralast 49-DL. It’s only $105, and most E39s use it as a replacement with a little wiggling in required for the E39, although it is not recommended by Autozone since it isn’t an exact fit. For the E60, it’s about ½ inch less tall, but the same length and width as the H8-AGM that fits perfectly. For an FLA, I think it would fit fine in the E60. If you switch from AGM to FLA you'd need to program for the new battery type.

The Results: When I started my car with the new H8-AGM battery it was perfect. No errors, no data lost, everything just as before. It runs great and I hope to have another 5 years or more on my new AGM battery. Total cost, about $160 plus a $12 refundable battery core charge. If you change from AGM to standard FLA, or get a dramatically different capacity, you probably must get it programmed at the dealer, or an Indy who has the programming tool. By getting the same type and size battery, and leaving the power on, I got no errors or problems and I think I won’t need to program the battery.

If someone can post a collection of useful links on this subject that would be GREAT for folks trying to understand this, without making it their job. Also, it would be nice if someone posts how to buy and use a programming tool for DIY BMW battery programming. As always, comments are encouraged.

GPom

Great write up but no need to "jump" the car while changing the battery, just leave the car running and the alternator keeps all the electronics going like it does whenever the car is running... Changed my battery on my 08 550 like that with no error codes but had it reprogramed at the dealer to recognized the new battery...

Sent from my PC36100 using Bimmer

I've read if you run an alternator without a battery attached it can fry the alternator. An expensive repair for a BMW. I know that's the case with an boat outboard that's running, when you're switching from one battery to the other on a dual battery system. There must always be contact with at least one battery.

Years ago when cars didn't have sensitive electronics it was sort of ok to disconnect or connect the battery while the car was running. Nowadays you are playing Russian roulette if you do that due to all the electronics on the car.

Just got back from Autozone with a replaced battery. I decided to go with the Duralst Gold 95R-DLG instead of the Duralast 49-DL even though it was $60 more. Basically, I was worried about the smaller battery not staying stationary enough, the vent tube would not reach, and it had a 1 yr less replacement warranty (only 2 + 5 additional prorated).

The 95R-DLG is the exact size of the OEM, the case was shaped exactly the same, and heck, it even had a "made in Germany" sticker on it. Also, it comes with a full 3 year replacement with an additional 5 year prorated. Hopefully, this will be the last battery that I ever pay for to go into this car.

After putting it in, the car started like never before and even all of my idrive settings were maintained except for the time.

Thanks for everyone's help and advice to this new BMW owner!

MrTantrum with the 08 535i.

Yes, I think you're right that a standard FLA Duralast 49-DL, that fits fine in a E39 (5 series 1997-2003) would not be a good choice for the E60. I took a look and the vent tube from the center back side of a 49-DL may not reach all the way to the tube connection location on the E60, which is on the left front(ish) side. Autozone does recommend the 95R-DLG for the E60, among a few others, if you're not replacing an AGM. Incidentally, our battery for the E60 is group 49, AKA DIN H8. Both the 49-DL and the 95R-DLG are in that that category. There is also a H8-DLG which fits which is not AGM, but it only has 760 CCA and 100 RC. This is less capacity than my E60 which with the OEM battery was 900 CCA and 160 RC. Bottom line, 49-DL is fine for the E39 but not for the E60, mostly because of the vent location. Again, since I need an AGM replacement battery, I chose a Duralast H8-AGM that exactly fit and matched my OEM specifications.

Congrats on your successful install! Did you keep the power on when you made the change, or not?

Originally Posted by GPom

MrTantrum with the 08 535i.

Congrats on your successful install! Did you keep the power on when you made the change, or not?

No, I did not. Even so, idrive remembered everything except time and a couple of minor settings.

Originally Posted by MrTantrum

Just got back from Autozone with a replaced battery. I decided to go with the Duralst Gold 95R-DLG instead of the Duralast 49-DL even though it was $60 more. Basically, I was worried about the smaller battery not staying stationary enough, the vent tube would not reach, and it had a 1 yr less replacement warranty (only 2 + 5 additional prorated).

The 95R-DLG is the exact size of the OEM, the case was shaped exactly the same, and heck, it even had a "made in Germany" sticker on it. Also, it comes with a full 3 year replacement with an additional 5 year prorated. Hopefully, this will be the last battery that I ever pay for to go into this car.

After putting it in, the car started like never before and even all of my idrive settings were maintained except for the time.

Thanks for everyone's help and advice to this new BMW owner!

I bought the exact battery last week. I just disconnected the battery from the car- I don't like the idea of current being present in the battery leads while I am handling them. You can't use a memory saver device plugged into the cigarette lighter (or any other port on the car) because once you turn the key off the power port is disconnected from the car's electrical system. I had to change the date and time in iDrive (but I don't have the active steering option).

I then used INPA to reset the IBS charge system. It is ridiculous that BMW doesn't offer the battery reset option in iDrive, it is just pure greed. I am convinced that it needs to be done, however.

"I then used INPA to reset the IBS charge system."

So, as you can see it's pretty easy to change the battery. Not trivial since it's heavy and needs to slip into the well in the trunk, but not so bad. Do you have more details on how you reset the charge system? Is that the full programming, or part of it?

awesome write-up! The battery change looks pretty straight forward. After thinking on it for a few days I decided to call my indy to see how much a new battery and program would be vs me doing the install. My indy charged me 200.00 for a new battery, install and program. I really wanted the peace of mind on the program of the new battery.

Congrats, you can't beat a price like that. The dealer's OEM battery alone is $250.

Great write up guys ... Sooner or later, I will have to use it .
Two quick questions...
1. One of the threads mentioned that the guy had iDrive failure (kind of partial), a couple of months after the battery change... He associated it with the battery change... Please let us know if you run into any issue few months after the change.
2. "I then used INPA to reset the IBS charge system"... I am getting into programming, and hopefully will be able to do that going forward.. however, was that necessary (I have the active steering though).

Thanks again

umermariner,

I did the original DIY writeup. No problems at all in the several months since I changed the battery in my E60. Everything in my iDrive works fine, including active steering, and there are no faults. I did not get my car reprogrammed, but replaced with the same type of AGM battery, before the old one died on me. I suspect the car relearns the characteristics of the battery over time, which isn't such a big change when you're replacing the same type. If you go from AGM to FLA, or vice versa, you'd need to reprogram since it has different charging characteristics.

I can only speak for LCI (E60 2008 and up), no need to hook up to batt charger or running the engine while swapping the batt. Trust me you won't loose any setting on seats/radio etc. I've done it twice, once to put in the AGM then freaked out when the charging voltage rather close to absolute max for AGM so I switched the the OEM back then drove it to indy shop to get reprogramed, then swiched the AGM aftermarket batt in. so far 2-3 months no problem.

I just cringe when someone suggesting working with live wire (the pos+ batt cable is alive when charger running or engine running), you touch that pos+ to any chasis part, you short the charger/alternator you may ends up creating a bigger problem like busting the computer or any delicate electronics along the path of that cable.

Originally Posted by GPom

umermariner,

I did the original DIY writeup. No problems at all in the several months since I changed the battery in my E60. Everything in my iDrive works fine, including active steering, and there are no faults. I did not get my car reprogrammed, but replaced with the same type of AGM battery, before the old one died on me. I suspect the car relearns the characteristics of the battery over time, which isn't such a big change when you're replacing the same type. If you go from AGM to FLA, or vice versa, you'd need to reprogram since it has different charging characteristics.

You need to make sure that your new battery is 90 AH. If it is 70 AH or 80 AH, some coding is required. Besides type of battery, the capacity has to be exactly the same. Also, registration is necessary. Your system is working with data averaged over 8 years. You took great care of your old battery the past 8 years, why stop now.

Definately agree, it makes no sense to keep wires live while replacing a battery. First you should remove the ground from your battery then there is no fear when removing the positive. If you remove the positive first then there is the risk of shorting the car with your wrench. First remove the ground. When attaching the new battery make sure you attach the positive first then the ground.

Also I went with the 95R from autozone as well because it has the same EXACT form factor as the original, even the vent was in the correct location. Interestingly the battery I purchased from Autozone was stamped ("Made in Germany).

The AGM may be better but hey, the original lasted 5 years, I have no complaints.

Originally Posted by umermariner

Great write up guys ... Sooner or later, I will have to use it .

2. "I then used INPA to reset the IBS charge system"... I am getting into programming, and hopefully will be able to do that going forward.. however, was that necessary (I have the active steering though).

I thought that it was a necessary step to rest the IBS. It takes all of 5-minutes and I have already invested in a cable and downloaded the software so why not? I did not change the battery type but I wanted to make sure that the car's computer knew that a new battery was installed.

If you change the battery to a different type or amp rating then you definitely need to register the battery.

Originally Posted by txag_530i

I thought that it was a necessary step to rest the IBS. It takes all of 5-minutes and I have already invested in a cable and downloaded the software so why not? I did not change the battery type but I wanted to make sure that the car's computer knew that a new battery was installed.

If you change the battery to a different type or amp rating then you definitely need to register the battery.

So it does not have much to do with registering the battery... Well, I guess I will do some more research on IBS to find out why did you think it was necessary .

Thanks again.

If type and/or capacity (measured in AH) of the new battery is different, coding software is needed to change the VO (vehicle order) and the CAS control unit plus registration. In other words, three separate steps are required. You would need NCSEXPERT for coding and INPA for registering. If type and capacity is exactly the same, just registering is enough.
INPA is diagnostics software and forgiving, but coding is a whole 'nother story and done wrong can brick expensive control units.

Great Post.....

Originally Posted by legend700

INPA is diagnostics software and forgiving, but coding is a whole 'nother story and done wrong can brick expensive control units.

coding with ncs is really hard to brick a module. All you are doing are changing available options. No big deal. Sure there are risks as with anything one does with any computer system but let's not get carried away here. Now.... Changing the firmware is a whole different level of risk!

Originally Posted by NoQuarter

coding with ncs is really hard to brick a module. All you are doing are changing available options. No big deal. Sure there are risks as with anything one does with any computer system but let's not get carried away here. Now.... Changing the firmware is a whole different level of risk!

Ordered my D-CAN cable, and hopefully doing something with NCS Expert as soon as I get it ... at least the minor modifications ... May start it on Friday evening, so even if I get stuck or mess up something, have the weekend to take care of it

Good idea about the weekend!

I am a disabled Engineer, but still do my own work (at least to the extent that I am able) and the forum has always been of great benefit to me. Hate Firmware Upgrades! In Engineering, we used to have a saying: "The system is the slave, not the master".......but BMW seems to take great joy in their attempts to defeat us. What a shame........it just shouldn't be so difficult.

Originally Posted by umermariner

Ordered my D-CAN cable, and hopefully doing something with NCS Expert as soon as I get it ... at least the minor modifications ... May start it on Friday evening, so even if I get stuck or mess up something, have the weekend to take care of it

Good luck with your coding. Just be aware that sh*t does happen:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1827881

Start reading up and join a BMW coding forum, if you havn't already.

Originally Posted by legend700

Good luck with your coding. Just be aware that sh*t does happen:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1827881

Start reading up and join a BMW coding forum, if you havn't already.

Wow.. that was lesson giving .
I am on bmwcoding, and bmwcoders