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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-05-2012, 05:16 AM
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BROOKSBC BROOKSBC is offline
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Mein Auto: 01 BMW 330i
Misfires/ Poor Idle

My 01 330i is having some problems i cant seem to get solved myself. It has poor idle but not all the time. On start up usually is the worst but coming to stop i sometimes stall it gets so bad. I have changed the fuel filter/regulator, plugs and insulating wires, both upstream o2 sensors, camshaft position sensor and mass airflow sensor. I still have a list of codes.

P0313 Misfire on low fuel
P1352-Misfire During Start Cylinder 6 (These six codes are bmw specific)
P1351-Misfire Cylinder 5 With Fuel Cut-off
P1349-Misfire Cylinder 4 With Fuel Cut-off
P1347-Misfire Cylinder 3 With Fuel Cut-off
P1345-Misfire Cylinder 2 With Fuel Cut-off
P1343-Misfire Cylinder 1 With Fuel Cut-off
P0174-
P0171-(these two are generic o2 sensor codes)

I have also tried injector cleaner but have not pulled the injectors out to inspect them yet or should i even do that?

I need some help here and really don't want to shell out the money to the dealer

Thanks
Branden

Update from previous post, I unplugged the MAF and it felt as if my problems went a way. My idle returned to normal and the car was more responsive to the gas pedal. No stalling or signs of stalling. Ran like a champ. So I figured I had a bad MAF so I replaced and all the same problems still exist so now I seem to have an extra MAF sitting here? Any ideas? Maybe bad wiring to the MAF?
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  #2  
Old 02-06-2012, 10:57 AM
SilbergrauBMW SilbergrauBMW is offline
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Find the pin out for the MAF and see if you can get a voltage reading at idle. It should rise with RPM heating the diodes inside the MAF. Clean your IACV, and make sure you dont have any air leaks in typical places on your intake boot.

Buy a stethascope at harbor freight and find a way to listen to the injector pulses. They should all be the same.
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2012, 06:58 PM
veli510 veli510 is offline
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Any updates???
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  #4  
Old 02-10-2012, 09:38 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
This may help:
- How to diagnose a typical BMW M54 engine misfire (1)
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #5  
Old 02-18-2012, 06:21 AM
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BROOKSBC BROOKSBC is offline
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No updates yet. Ill update more as I work it out. My alternator went out so im waiting on the time to fix that now

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  #6  
Old 02-18-2012, 12:55 PM
veli510 veli510 is offline
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Thanks for checking back. Hope to hear you resolve issue. I am dealing with the same type of misfire codes.
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  #7  
Old 02-19-2012, 04:33 AM
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BROOKSBC BROOKSBC is offline
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I replaced my alternator so I'm back up and running. I'm going to be lining up with another car next friday and doing some digging so check back then and ill give an update. Thinking about changing the vanos seals.

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  #8  
Old 02-26-2012, 01:39 PM
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BROOKSBC BROOKSBC is offline
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So I replaced the disa valve. The butterfly valve thingy that actually goes into the engine was broken. The spring action was broke. I also found and replaced a worn out lower intake boot. (not that its relevant but replaced a leaking power steering fluid resivor)

But with all that I still have the same codes and running issues.

Since it appears cylinder 6 has no issues I think maybe ill swap some injectors around and see if the problem moves into 6.

Will update again in time.

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  #9  
Old 02-26-2012, 01:55 PM
silvergrau silvergrau is offline
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I don't know exactly if and how your codes correspond to mine from my peake scanner, but here they are:

27C3 - Thermal oil level sensor
2744 - Cylinder 3 Misfire
2747 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
2742 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
2882 - Mix Prep B1
2883 - Mix Prep B2

I replaced the DISA and the CCV. My codes are gone, and she runs great.



The full story is here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=543117&page=2
in post #39.

I also rec checking out this thread: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

I don't know if it is bad form to post links from another forum, and perhaps the info is available here, but I found that thread very informative especially the orignal post, and page 8.

Last edited by silvergrau; 02-27-2012 at 12:12 PM.
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  #10  
Old 02-27-2012, 08:15 AM
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mawana mawana is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BROOKSBC View Post
So I replaced the disa valve. The butterfly valve thingy that actually goes into the engine was broken. The spring action was broke. I also found and replaced a worn out lower intake boot. (not that its relevant but replaced a leaking power steering fluid resivor)

But with all that I still have the same codes and running issues.

Since it appears cylinder 6 has no issues I think maybe ill swap some injectors around and see if the problem moves into 6.

Will update again in time.

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Wait, did you replace the DISA gasket as well? If not you may need to do so.

Basically, with p0171/174, you have a vacuum leak and are running lean - more air than fuel hence the misfires with fuel cut-off because the fuel delivery system cannot keep up with the amount of air being injected. Since you replaced the fuel filter, you may actually have a weak or failing fuel pump that can't pump enough fuel to keep up with the car's demands. You can do a fuel pressure test just to make sure but p0313 is making that obvious.

The other source of vacuum leaks could be the gaskets at the injectors both top and bottom. In addition, the injectors may just be clogged thus compromising the amount of fuel injected into the cylinders. There is a diy here to clean your injectors (soak them in oil for about an hour then scrub them with a wire brush, rinse with Techron, and replace the gaskets while at it.)

Lastly, see the post above on CCV - there is a bunch of areas in that system that can be plagued by vacuum leaks - you may need to work on that too.

I have read of cases where if you replaced the intake (?) camshaft sensor, you may need to replace the crankshaft sensor too, especially if the car is somewhat aged. The reason being the DME uses signals from both these sensors and continually checks them as the car is running for a smooth operation. While the DME is able to use one sensor to compensate for the other's shortcomings, there comes a time when the signal mappings are just too off thus causing misfires related problems. A DME reflash can also cure this.

G/L
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  #11  
Old 02-27-2012, 10:22 AM
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BROOKSBC BROOKSBC is offline
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First where is the disa gasket? Its seperate from thw actual disa? I wasnt aware of that since the dealer made no mention of it when I bought the disa.

Second, im going to swap the injector from 6 and see if it moves. If it does im going to pull and clean the injectors as mentioned.

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  #12  
Old 02-27-2012, 10:24 AM
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How do you flash the DME?

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  #13  
Old 02-27-2012, 10:33 AM
sae361 sae361 is offline
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misfire

Quote:
Originally Posted by BROOKSBC View Post
My 01 330i is having some problems i cant seem to get solved myself. It has poor idle but not all the time. On start up usually is the worst but coming to stop i sometimes stall it gets so bad. I have changed the fuel filter/regulator, plugs and insulating wires, both upstream o2 sensors, camshaft position sensor and mass airflow sensor. I still have a list of codes.

P0313 Misfire on low fuel
P1352-Misfire During Start Cylinder 6 (These six codes are bmw specific)
P1351-Misfire Cylinder 5 With Fuel Cut-off
P1349-Misfire Cylinder 4 With Fuel Cut-off
P1347-Misfire Cylinder 3 With Fuel Cut-off
P1345-Misfire Cylinder 2 With Fuel Cut-off
P1343-Misfire Cylinder 1 With Fuel Cut-off
P0174-
P0171-(these two are generic o2 sensor codes)

I have also tried injector cleaner but have not pulled the injectors out to inspect them yet or should i even do that?

I need some help here and really don't want to shell out the money to the dealer

Thanks
Branden

Update from previous post, I unplugged the MAF and it felt as if my problems went a way. My idle returned to normal and the car was more responsive to the gas pedal. No stalling or signs of stalling. Ran like a champ. So I figured I had a bad MAF so I replaced and all the same problems still exist so now I seem to have an extra MAF sitting here? Any ideas? Maybe bad wiring to the MAF?
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check your coils and sparks plugs. you also might want to check your dica valve and if you can do a smoke test
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  #14  
Old 02-27-2012, 10:45 AM
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mawana mawana is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BROOKSBC View Post
First where is the disa gasket? Its seperate from thw actual disa? I wasnt aware of that since the dealer made no mention of it when I bought the disa.

Second, im going to swap the injector from 6 and see if it moves. If it does im going to pull and clean the injectors as mentioned.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BROOKSBC View Post
How do you flash the DME?

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Well, there is some form of gasket on the new DISA but it's ability to seal off properly is questionable considering the heat cycles the manifold opening has endured. You can get a new gasket here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-330-...87678527798398

Swapping injectors is a good starting point, and depending on the outcome you can either rebuild them or get new ones. If getting new ones but just the failed ones, get also gaskets for the old non-failing ones and refresh them.

DME reflash can be done at the dealer or by an indy.

G/L
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  #15  
Old 02-27-2012, 11:19 AM
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BROOKSBC BROOKSBC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sae361 View Post
check your coils and sparks plugs. you also might want to check your dica valve and if you can do a smoke test
I know your trying to help but did you read the first post on this thread?

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  #16  
Old 02-27-2012, 03:33 PM
silvergrau silvergrau is offline
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The OE DISA I bought came with the gasket.
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  #17  
Old 02-29-2012, 02:38 PM
JamesO JamesO is offline
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Skip the DME flash, you need to sort other basic problems first.

Suggest you check the CCV Lower Oil Return Hose.

I am the author of the info below at this link and I think it has most of the info that you should be looking into.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616
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  #18  
Old 03-01-2012, 05:48 AM
gesoffen gesoffen is offline
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The multiple mis-fire codes are a classic sign of a vacuum leaks. Not to rub salt in the wound but it looks like you were throwing parts at it to fix the problem rather than diagnosing the problem itself - and it cost you a lot of time and money. I'd suggest you perform some type smoke or pressure test on the intake system - google search to come up with the various ways to do these. Common vacuum leaks are found (in no particular order):
- PCV Valve and associated hoses
- Upper and lower intake boot
- DISA valve
- Valve cover/gasket (valve covers are plastic so get brittle and crack with age)
- Oil dip stick o-ring
- vacuum hoses associated with the Secondary Air Injection Pump and of the F-Tube on the intake boot

Less common sources of vacuum leaks:
- Fuel Injector O-rings
- Distribution manifold O-rings
- Intake manifold gaskets
- Throttle Body

The reason why your disconnecting your MAF made things appear to run better is because your DME will run in open loop mode with a conservative fuel map to prevent an over lean condition. If the vacuum leak is significant enough, even this conservative fuel map won't be enough to prevent mis-fires.
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  #19  
Old 03-05-2012, 06:02 PM
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BROOKSBC BROOKSBC is offline
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Thumbs down

Quote:
Originally Posted by gesoffen View Post
Not to rub salt in the wound but it looks like you were throwing parts at it to fix the problem rather than diagnosing the problem itself
I haven't replaced any part that was not broken and in need of being replaced. Every thing i have replaced has been in regards to a larger list of problems and codes that i now no longer have. I'm narrowing down my problems or diagnosing like you put it.
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  #20  
Old 03-05-2012, 07:01 PM
veli510 veli510 is offline
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I was in your shoes for a while. Once I did my head gasket. No more misfire.
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  #21  
Old 03-05-2012, 08:47 PM
GeorgeBush234 GeorgeBush234 is offline
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Did you ever checked the crank sensor? When you replaced the mass airflow sensor Did you ever checked the TPS as well.
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  #22  
Old 03-05-2012, 09:12 PM
minimouse minimouse is offline
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I wonder if the following help.

Mine was a 2001 325i and suffered an ocassional sluggish and eradict rev engine for sometime. Having read so many threads about similar problems I did not even bother with a scanner and went straight into the idle control valve with a throughout cleaning. It was all fine then till last week when the sluggishness returned with a vengence.

Over the weekend I looked into the issue and wonder if the ICV played up again. Upon examining the air intake boot (1st step to reach the ICV), I noticed there was a hairline crack at the joint where the F-shape plastic bit joining it and suspected this could be the cause of the problem (failing to provide a perfect vaccum). After sealing it with tape (interim measure) the engine seems to be fine and revving freely again.

May be yours a simple or similar problem too?
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  #23  
Old 03-06-2012, 05:48 AM
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mlukas161 mlukas161 is offline
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The DISA on a 330i has an integrated gasket. Only the 325i needs the separate DISA gasket.
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  #24  
Old 03-06-2012, 10:29 AM
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BROOKSBC BROOKSBC is offline
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I have discovered a leaking valve cover gasket. So that is likely the source of my misfires. My head gasket is good to go.

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  #25  
Old 03-07-2012, 04:16 AM
gesoffen gesoffen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BROOKSBC View Post
I have discovered a leaking valve cover gasket. So that is likely the source of my misfires. My head gasket is good to go.

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That will do it..... as well as make a mess on the exhaust side of your head! When replacing the gasket a couple of potential might as wells:

- consider replacing the valve cover itself (they're plastic and are brittle by 10yr/100k+, thus VERY easy to crack when you're torquing them back down). They come with the perimeter and spark plug gaskets so at ~$200 for the cover, you're "only" paying ~$160 more than for the gasket alone. It'll also save you the aggravation of removing the old cracked/brittle gasket from the your valve cover.
- replace all the rubber sealing bushings for all the VC bolts - 15 total on an M54 engine
- By a yard/meter of 5.6mm/1.4" vacuum hose and replace the line that runs to the SAP valve (front passenger side corner of head around back to center of head under where the cabin filter sits). Its a hard pipe connected at either end by the vacuum hose and the portion on the passenger side is usually toast by now from the heat of the manifold.

All in all, this is a fairly easy but a bit messy DIY. Good luck!
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