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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 03-11-2012, 11:29 PM
GeorgeBush234 GeorgeBush234 is offline
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I'm actually surprised that your catalytic converter it's in bad shape have you checked the honeycomb filter inside your cat.
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  #27  
Old 03-12-2012, 07:59 PM
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No i can't. the only way to access it is to cut into it and that will void my warranty.
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  #28  
Old 03-12-2012, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
i would also assume that if a cat has burned out, or is burning out, that it should smell of sulphur. have you gotten any exhaust gas readings done to verify that the cats are faulty??
There is definitely a sulphur smell. havent gotten them sniffed. not sure where to take it to do this...

So the vacuum test will tell whether or not i have constant pressure in the intake? where are the nipples to attach the tester to? Not looking at my engine now but if they're obvious then just let me know.
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Last edited by veteran011; 03-12-2012 at 08:18 PM.
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  #29  
Old 03-13-2012, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veteran011 View Post
There is definitely a sulphur smell. havent gotten them sniffed. not sure where to take it to do this...

So the vacuum test will tell whether or not i have constant pressure in the intake? where are the nipples to attach the tester to? Not looking at my engine now but if they're obvious then just let me know.
ok, if you are not driving the car like you're on a formula 1 track then you should not be smelling sulphur.

check your fuel pressure, and vacuum lines to the carbon canister, as well as the fuel pressure regulator vac line.

a vac test will verify the fluctuation between vac/pressurein the intake manifold, and a slightly bouncy needle will be more common in 3 & 4 cylinder engines than a 5,6,8,etc. this is due to cylinder contribution and overlap. more like a 'vibration' than a bounce, really.

what you do not want to see is a significant swing in the needle, or a very low reading. vac s/b about 18 or so inches of Hg. (mercury), not water. those are for different applications. (probably will not see a guage for water, but it would be just my luck to tell you to go get one and you wind up with one...)

tee into the fuel pressure regulator.


here's a pretty current article on vacuum guages. it'll essplain a lot, mang...


good luck.



df
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  #30  
Old 03-13-2012, 06:23 PM
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Not driving the car aggressively so maybe its not sulphur. but there's definitely a distinct smell coming from the exhaust. smells like it did before i got ne new cats.

Can the same gauge be used for the vacuum test and the fuel pressure regulator?
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  #31  
Old 03-13-2012, 06:26 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
here's a pretty current article on vacuum guages. it'll essplain a lot, mang...
df
Are you getting as senile as I am? No linkee......
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  #32  
Old 03-13-2012, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Are you getting as senile as I am? No linkee......
http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Using...3/article.html

sorry about that...seem to have been doing this a lot lately...


and i just used the formula 1 as a reference. if you are dumping too much fuel into the car, then the cats will smell.

possible causes could be...
faulty fuel pressure regulator hold too much pressure, or...
faulty fuel pump pumping too much pressure, or...
faulty maf requesting additional fuel when not needed, or...
vacuum leak indicating lean conditions being picked up by the o2 resulting in additional fuel being metered, or...
leaky fuel injectors allowing too much fuel through the pintle, or...
additional fuel vapor being sucked in via evap system (carbon canister, vent valve, purge valve...), or...
(i think you get the idea, though)

most vacuum guages will also read fuel pressure for carburated applications, not fuel injection, so no, it will not read fuel pressure to check fpr operation.

it can check to see that proper vacuum is being applied to the fpr, though, but a proper efi fuel pressure tester will be necessary for operational check of the fpr.

the fpr should regulate the pressure down when vac is applied, and allow pressure to increase when less vac is applied (acceleration). rule of thumb is about 10-15psi depending upon set up.


sorry about the link failures lately guys...

must go get...uh, hey guys, ....wadaya call that stuff that's s'poseda help ya 'member stuff-n-junk??





df
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  #33  
Old 03-14-2012, 08:35 AM
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Ok so this weekend I will test the vacuum in the intake and the vacuum applied to the fuel pressure regulator (also hopefully change the belts...) I will get back to you all with the results.

And DF i use one 'o them newfangled notepads and a fancy-schmancy mechanized pencil to remember things. :P
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  #34  
Old 04-09-2012, 08:49 AM
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so i havent gotten around to doing the vacuum test yet but i did find a nice large hole in the hose running from the MAF to the throttle body.... i slapped a load of duct tape on as a temp fix. buying a replacement today. That DEF could have contributed. I'll also clean the MAF when i get the new hose. Im still skeptical this will solve the problem since the Long-term fuel trim was only off for one bank not both... I'll also replace the O2 sensors just to be safe. i already have em so why not?

Also i looked around and couldnt find where i should take the vacuum reading... can someone point me to the right place? or does the bentley tell me where to find it?
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  #35  
Old 04-10-2012, 02:21 PM
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vacuum feed to the regulator works for most applications as it tends to be an easy location. or brake booster, but that requires a reducer to attatch properly and not cause a vac leak.


and a mis reading maf will create all sorts of issues with the emissions and such, so you may have found a large portion of the problem right there.

keep us updated.



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  #36  
Old 04-11-2012, 08:21 AM
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Just ordered the replacement part from Amazon. Man i love Amazon Prime. $4.00 to get the part tomorrow. aweosme.

anyways I figure I'll replace the part, drive for a week or so then reset the CEL and wait for it to inevitably come back on and look at the freeze frame data when it does. Should i wait longer than a week? How long-term is long term fuel trim calcuated?

So this should help clear up the LTFT issues. Still curious what could cause a STFT issue in only bank 2...
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  #37  
Old 04-17-2012, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
vacuum feed to the regulator works for most applications as it tends to be an easy location.
Is this the vacuum feed to the regulator?
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  #38  
Old 05-12-2012, 05:05 PM
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so i never got any reply to where the vacuum feed to the regulator is...

anyways spent all day today replacing the cooling system. New t-stat, housing, radiator, water pump, belts, hoses, everything. i think i bled it right but my coolant gauge isnt moving at all. not even getting into the cold section just like it did before the coolant overhaul. :/ so my next job will be the coolant temp sensor in the block. sucks that i gotta remove the intake just to replace a $20 sensor...

Is the sensor that feeds the temp gauge in the instrument cluster the only sensor that monitors coolant temp? So if this sensor is bad the engine doesnt know what temp its at?
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  #39  
Old 05-12-2012, 06:54 PM
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sorry, did not see your question about the vacuum feed. (that was for the booster, btw)


as for the coolant temp guage, it reads off 1 sensor and the coolant temp sensor for the fuel delivery reads off another one. both are under the intake. i'd check to be certain the sensor didn't become unplugged, or something.


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  #40  
Old 05-12-2012, 07:50 PM
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DF can you show me where to check the compression then?

and are you sure that they read off separate sensors? just checked real oem and the part that i need is "technically" called a double temperature switch which leads me to believe it serves both functions. however i havent gotten any fault codes... Also every now and then the gauge moves a tad from the "rest" position. it sometime inches into the near end of the blue but never goes past halfway through the blue but then it drops back to the "rest" position off the dial.
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Last edited by veteran011; 05-12-2012 at 08:01 PM.
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  #41  
Old 05-12-2012, 08:41 PM
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compression?? or vacuum?? or fuel pressure??


@ the fuel rail is the best place. if your fuel pressure regulator is at the back of the fuel rail underneath, then hook the fuel pressure tester on the front line of the fuel rail.

on fuel rails that have the fpr under the chassis, the line closest to the front should be the feed, but there is always a chance that they could have been swapped at some point when the intake was removed (for whatever reason).

but i think you have the fpr @ the back of the rail.

find the vacuum line at the botom and 't' into that to get a vac reading.

you could use a reducer (should be in the vacuum guage kit if it is a good one) to read vac @ booster feed (the part in the above pic).


compression is @ spark plug holes with proper guage.




does this help??



df
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  #42  
Old 05-14-2012, 08:50 AM
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Thank DF i meant to say vacuum. not sure why i said compression.

So the "vacuum line at the bottom"? at the bottom of what? do you mean the vacuum line that goes into the bottom of the intake boot?
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  #43  
Old 05-14-2012, 07:44 PM
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bottom of the fuel pressure regulator.


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