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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-11-2012, 03:29 AM
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The Nerd The Nerd is offline
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2005 545i at 100k- Water Pump? Spark Plugs?

Well....the dreaded 100k mark is just around the corner for me in my 05 545i. My biggest concern right now is the water pump. I know that if it goes on its own (before I have a chance to have it replaced), it can destroy parts of my engine and be VERY costly. What is the recommendation for changing those out? 100k? 150k? Has anyone had experience with the water pump going out? If so, what mileage and what kind of damage occurred? Are there signs to look for ahead of time if it looks like it is about to go? What's the cost of a new water pump installed?

My second question deals with spark plugs. My iDrive is telling me they need to be replaced at 100k. I'm assuming I should trust this and go ahead with it. Since I am far out of warranty, I suppose I'll have my trusted non-dealeship repair shop (who happens to specialize in BMWs) do it for much cheaper. Any idea on the cost?
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  #2  
Old 03-11-2012, 06:28 AM
TRS550 TRS550 is offline
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At 100K I would replace the entire cooling system While that may sound extreme, it's the weak point in the car and replacing the cooling system is much cheaper than replacing an engine.

My 550 has 75K on it and I just had the spark plugs replaced. Indy charged me $365. Noticable difference in how the car runs. It ran fine before but it definately feels better in terms of response and power. Perceived or real...??
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2012, 09:46 AM
jsimon7777 jsimon7777 is offline
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Not many 550s over 100k miles. I would do belts and the pump, but not the whole cooling system. Hoses if they're cracked. Plugs, definitely. Check the PCV if this car has one.
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  #4  
Old 03-12-2012, 10:35 AM
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WillInDenver WillInDenver is offline
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^ Two great, well-informed responses so far. I'm surprised, frankly. I don't find a lot of people on this forum to be long-term-hold types, and I think you're going to get a lot of "OH-MY-GOD-GET-RID-OF-IT-WHILE-YOU-STILL-CAN" responses from people talking out of their asses.

I am in the same position as you. 70K on my 545. Runs like butter, and I'm trying to decide how to handle the maintenance for the next 30 to 40K miles. Premptively replacing the cooling system is an interesting idea. I wonder how much something like that would cost.
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  #5  
Old 03-12-2012, 12:05 PM
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Jaycal3 Jaycal3 is offline
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I have an '04 545i with almost 98k on the clock. I have replaced the following: Coolant expansion tank and associated hoses, water pump($160-$240), oil pressure switch(prone to leak), spark plugs. I would think the t-stat should be replaced as well as many of the coolant system hoses since they tend to dry out and crack. Filters - microcabin and air as well.
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  #6  
Old 03-12-2012, 01:37 PM
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Water pump should not destroyed your engine, because it doesn't sit on chain, I think you are thinking about timing belt driven cars, where is pump on same timing belt as engine. Here the worst thing could happened it's loud noise. But you have to stop right the way.
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  #7  
Old 03-12-2012, 02:09 PM
jsimon7777 jsimon7777 is offline
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With a new radiator, there's no need to go OEM if you can get one that fits. That should save a lot of money since BMW parts are so expensive. I would look at the suspension too. I have read that some parts wear out. I need to get mine looked at. Guess I'm just lazy.
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  #8  
Old 03-27-2012, 06:30 PM
Ramsey Barnette Ramsey Barnette is offline
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I had to replace the water pump at around 95K in my 2007 550i, they replaced the hoses while they fixed the water pump, around $40.00 for the hoses, $400.00 for water pump and $350.00 for labor at an independent BMW shop in Sacramento. You can hear a ticking noise when your water pump is about to go.

Spark plugs should definitely be replaced at 100K. Personally, I replace at 75K.

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  #9  
Old 03-27-2012, 07:15 PM
Damon54 Damon54 is offline
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Just had a 05 / 545i in for an oil pressure switch at a well thought of Dallas Area Indy & asked this same question about the cooling system. They seemed to indicate that there was no need to pro-actively address the system. Mechanic said you usually have a tell tale leak before a water pump gives up the ghost.

My thought is to keep the condition of your coolant in very good shape to hopefully ward off having to deal with that weep valley pipe issue & o-ring under the intake manifold.

Last edited by Damon54; 03-28-2012 at 01:12 PM.
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  #10  
Old 07-19-2012, 08:37 PM
Damon54 Damon54 is offline
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I think my water pump is trying to tell me something.
Slight squeak @ startup & just found a small puddle.
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  #11  
Old 07-19-2012, 09:08 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Nerd View Post
Well....the dreaded 100k mark is just around the corner for me in my 05 545i. My biggest concern right now is the water pump. I know that if it goes on its own (before I have a chance to have it replaced), it can destroy parts of my engine and be VERY costly. What is the recommendation for changing those out? 100k? 150k? Has anyone had experience with the water pump going out? If so, what mileage and what kind of damage occurred? Are there signs to look for ahead of time if it looks like it is about to go? What's the cost of a new water pump installed?

My second question deals with spark plugs. My iDrive is telling me they need to be replaced at 100k. I'm assuming I should trust this and go ahead with it. Since I am far out of warranty, I suppose I'll have my trusted non-dealeship repair shop (who happens to specialize in BMWs) do it for much cheaper. Any idea on the cost?
545i are awesome beasts aren't they?

You are living on borrowed time at 100K miles. Some go at 60K, some 90K, some 120K you never know. If you are lucky you will only be stranded. If it overheats moderately then you can destroy gaskets. Really overheat it and you can start looking for a new engine.

Be proactive and do the water pump, hoses, thermostat and coolant expansion tank and you will sleep well.

At 100K you are also overdue for plugs. Did my own for $24 (OE Bosch). If you are not a DIY guy my guess would be between $300 & $400 with an Indie depending upon where you are in the country. The job is a PITA, especially the two plugs on the firewall.

Keeping your oil changed regularly will also keep your gaskets in good shape (5-7K miles depending upon type of driving).
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  #12  
Old 07-19-2012, 10:45 PM
Damon54 Damon54 is offline
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Embrace or avoid the composite impeller?
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  #13  
Old 07-20-2012, 07:03 AM
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dolfan13 dolfan13 is offline
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The water pump is preventive maint. on these cars.At 100k I would change it,did my own and was very easy.Lots of DIY around.Expansion tank and small hoses connected to it will give out also.Radiator on these seems better than past bimmers but?Also change the t-stat.Plugs took me an hour relaxing.Check pulleys and tensioner also east fix.

Last edited by dolfan13; 07-20-2012 at 07:04 AM.
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  #14  
Old 07-20-2012, 07:27 AM
2004nav 2004nav is offline
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Just remember that the water pump has a ceramic or plastic impellar. I changed mine to a metal impellar . I also changed the thermostat and spark plugs to NGK Laser Platinum as well . Love this car , but always on edge when I drive it!

Last edited by 2004nav; 07-20-2012 at 07:46 AM.
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  #15  
Old 07-20-2012, 07:50 AM
Kalil147 Kalil147 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damon54 View Post
I think my water pump is trying to tell me something.
Slight squeak @ startup & just found a small puddle.
I am having the same problem as well. No puddle though. At first I noticed about a small whistle sound a month ago. No I hear this very loud screeching noise at cold starts. The noise increases in proportion to acceleration. The noise goes away after about 5 minutes. Is this the water pump? Or can this be something else? For whatever its worth I have a 05 545I 72K MILES. Replaced thermostat, vcgs, alternator, alternator bracket gasket.
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  #16  
Old 07-20-2012, 09:50 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Originally Posted by Kalil147 View Post
I am having the same problem as well. No puddle though. At first I noticed about a small whistle sound a month ago. No I hear this very loud screeching noise at cold starts. The noise increases in proportion to acceleration. The noise goes away after about 5 minutes. Is this the water pump? Or can this be something else? For whatever its worth I have a 05 545I 72K MILES. Replaced thermostat, vcgs, alternator, alternator bracket gasket.
You can buy a very inexpensive stethoscope with an extended pickup at HFT that you can in the engine compartment to zero in on the culprit (might be belt tensioner also).
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-41966.html

Other thing you can do if you are a DIY is loosen the drive belt and spin the water pump by hand to see if it squeaks.

If you replace the water pump do the hoses and coolant expansion tank (you said you already replaced the thermostat).
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  #17  
Old 07-20-2012, 10:14 AM
Kalil147 Kalil147 is offline
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I will try that today. I am hoping I haven't messed anything up. I only noticed the noise when I got out of my car to get something out of the trunk. It was pretty loud. From inside I never noticed the noise. I really don't know how long this has been happening. If it is the water pump, would this cause any long term affect if I have been driving like this?
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  #18  
Old 07-20-2012, 05:44 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Originally Posted by Kalil147 View Post
I will try that today. I am hoping I haven't messed anything up. I only noticed the noise when I got out of my car to get something out of the trunk. It was pretty loud. From inside I never noticed the noise. I really don't know how long this has been happening. If it is the water pump, would this cause any long term affect if I have been driving like this?
If the pump impeller has been disintegrating then you might experience some reduced water cooling, although if you saw no warning lights you are likely OK.

The noise is from the bearing in the pump as it fails. The noise tells you the impeller is still spinning and pumping water, but also that it won't do it much longer.

It is only when the engine actually overheats that damage can be done. Keep a close eye on the instrument panel until you diagnose it or replace the water pump.

I was taught years ago by an old timer to make it a habit of once per week checking the fluid levels (engine oil if you have a dipstick, trans fluid if you have a dip stick, power steering fluid, brake fluid and coolant levels). After checking all fluids start the engine and just listen to it idle for a minute or two. You learn what it sounds like when it is running well so that if the sound ever changes the difference jumps out at you. Many times sounds are early warning of component failure and jumping on it fast limits the damage to a single component.
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  #19  
Old 07-20-2012, 06:42 PM
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Hogie Hogie is offline
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You are OK at 100K miles for your water pump. You should change your plugs as they are due. you should change your serpentine belt and AC belt if yours has that, my 545i does.

As a hint you should change your Coolant Vent Return line as around 75 to 100K they are brittle. Mine cracked and I have read many others. Do a search for coolant Vent return.

Change your transmission pan/gasket and refill with ZF fluids (OEM)

I have 166k miles on my 545i. While I want to proactively change my water pump I have not yet. I will later this summer. But I am at 166K. You should also start to see some oil leaks soon.
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  #20  
Old 07-21-2012, 08:21 AM
Kalil147 Kalil147 is offline
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You are right. My 545i started to unleash itself with problems once I hit 70k. Alternator, battery, software update, spark plugs, VCGs, alternator bracket gasket, oil sensor. I got everything fixed very quickly. however, I now need to fix this noise, and replace control arms(bushings are worn). People ask me if 545is are worth the hassle. To this point, I still do not regret my Bmer.
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  #21  
Old 07-21-2012, 11:48 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalil147 View Post
You are right. My 545i started to unleash itself with problems once I hit 70k. Alternator, battery, software update, spark plugs, VCGs, alternator bracket gasket, oil sensor. I got everything fixed very quickly. however, I now need to fix this noise, and replace control arms(bushings are worn). People ask me if 545is are worth the hassle. To this point, I still do not regret my Bmer.
70K miles is indeed the magic number for the 545i. And it is amazing how the various problems are so common for the model. I ran across a list of the 20 top issues for the 545i and I think mine had 17 out of 20. Luckily all but one were with the previous owner, and the one I experienced (coolant expansion tank failure) was covered under an extended warranty. I think the only one my car missed on your list is the alternator.

It really helps to be able to do DIY - just the oil changes, plugs, rear diff fluid, trans fluid, cabin filters, water pump and hoses, shocks and control arms and brakes save so much that a difficult gasket now and then isn't so bad to pay for.

My next project is to relocate the micro power module from under the spare tire to the left fender in the trunk. Too many horror stories of liquid spilling in the trunk and frying the MPM.
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  #22  
Old 08-28-2012, 09:00 PM
candy7787 candy7787 is offline
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well i was having that problem but since this was a question for a long time ago what you couldve done is just do a restoration on the water pump to restore it is about 50 bucks that couldve saved about 200-300 dollars instead of replaceing the whole water pump
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  #23  
Old 08-28-2012, 11:27 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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well i was having that problem but since this was a question for a long time ago what you couldve done is just do a restoration on the water pump to restore it is about 50 bucks that couldve saved about 200-300 dollars instead of replaceing the whole water pump
Well I spoke too soon in my last post to this thread when I said the only problem I hadn't seen was the alternator.

It wasn't a month later that I started to get active steering and transmission errors. Knowing from previous experience when my battery died that system voltage fluctuations can cause random errors, I inserted the cigarette lighter voltmheter I had purchased earlier in the year to monitor system voltage. The alternator output was swinging between 11.5V and 17V on start up and then would settle down. It was definitely the alternator's voltage regulator.

I mentioned the 17V output on another post and was told that someone knew of a car that experienced 17V and the whole iDrive was blown out to the tune of $2500. I stopped driving it immediately and ordered an alternator.

Figuring I had to remove the fan shroud, radiator fan, air intake system, engine cover and belts I decided to proactively replace the water pump and put on new belts while I had everything apart.

Alternator and water pump weren't that bad. Serpentine belt was a breeze. AC compressor stretch belt was a total PITA.

I put it all back together and had a leak at top of radiator. Sure enough, the dreaded radiator vent pipe return to the expansion tank, which Hogie mentioned previously in this post as growing brittle with age. I pulled the plastic pipe out of the center of the two hoses and replaced it with 5/16" copper tubing and two pipe clamps. Much more solid system now.

Back to the quote above. I could have had the water pump rebuilt for $50. Absolutely. And I could have just replaced the voltage regulator on the alternator ($120), or had the alternator rebuilt for probably $100. But then I would have had to leave the car apart while the components were rebuilt. And I have heard horror stories about putting the car back together and experiencing rebuild component failure a short time later.

I spend a total of $525 on all new components: OE alternator, water pump, thermostat, water pipe, harmonic balancer bolts, serpentine belt and AC compressor belt. I had no labor costs I think that is reasonable enough given the magnitude of the repairs.

I put the old belts in my trunk as backups.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:28 AM
Kalil147 Kalil147 is offline
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Hi, I am about to replace my water pump on my 545i. How do I remove the belts? I removed the fan shroud and fan already. I see the belt tensioner, in the center it only has a little hole???
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:23 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Originally Posted by Kalil147 View Post
Hi, I am about to replace my water pump on my 545i. How do I remove the belts? I removed the fan shroud and fan already. I see the belt tensioner, in the center it only has a little hole???
Unless your tensioner is making noise, you don't need to remove it. Just to the right of the tensioner pulley is a silver part of the tensioner that has an opening for a large male torx driver (T60 size). If you insert a torx driver connected to a large wrench or breaker bar, turn the wrench clockwise and you will see that this removes the spring tension that holds the serpentine belt tight (you are putting reverse tension on the tortional spring).

In the body of the metal portion of the tensioner below the torx opening is a small hole. There is another small hole in the engine behind the tensioner of the same size. Both take a 3/16" diameter rod. BMW sells a special tool but I used a 3/16" drill and it worked fine.

The holes will align when you have rotated the tensioner spring to the right and you can slip the drill through the metal tensioner body and into the hole in the engine which will then hold the tortional spring in that position with the tension removed from the belt so you can slip it off.

It is sort of tricky and takes two hands. When you are ready to remove the belt insert the 3/16" drill into the hole in the tensioner as far as it will go and hold it with one hand. Then turn the T60 clockwise slowly with the other hand while putting slight pressure on the drill until you feel it find the second hole and slip through the tensioner body into the second hole in the engine. Then slowly release the tension on the wrench to see if the drill is firmly in place and holds the tensioner back.

Make sure you have a picture or diagram of how the serpentine belt snakes through the pulleys as it can be confusing later, or take a few photos and make sure you can tell how it goes on. Then slip the serpentine belt off the tensioner pulley first and it will then easily slip off the rest of the pulleys. Then again apply tension to the tensioner and remove the drill from the two holes and release the tensioner back to its normal position. Later, when you reinstall the serpentine belt you will first put the drill back in to hold the tensioner back.

In order to remove the AC belt you will have to rotate the engine. In the center of the harmonic balancer connected to the crankshaft is the exposed head of a bolt that is connected to the crankshaft. This bolt is NOT removed during your work, but is simply used to manually turn the engine over. Attach a 27mm socket to a large torque wrench or breaker bar and turn the bolt clockwise to rotate the engine.

Loop a clean rag over the AC belt so the two ends hang down and then slid the rag up against the AC compressor pulley. Then rotate the engine clockwise until the rag has rotated with the belt and is jammed between the belt and the AC compressor pulley. While slowly rotating the engine grab the two ends of the rag and pull. This will cause the belt to slip off the pulley.

Now you can remove the 8 (eight) small bolts holding the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft (handle the harmonic balancer very carefully - dropping it and causing a dent may ruin it - they sell for almost $600). Again, do not attempt to remove the 27mm bolt. Once the harmonic balancer is off you will be able to get at the lower bolt in the water pump. BMW recommends replacing those 8 bolts and not reusing them. Also note that although there are 8 bolts the balancer pulley assembly has nine holes. There is a pin to positively locate the balancer to the crankshaft.

WARNING: Putting the AC belt on is very difficult without a stretch belt tool. BMW sells one and there are other tools that do the same thing are available on the web. The other tough part is that in order to use a tool you need room around the AC belt pulley. There is an AC line held in a bracket that is connected to the compressor body that needs to be removed to allow enough room to use the tool and slip the belt on.

I've seen experienced mechanics slip them on using no tool but it is difficult.

I assume you have a torque wrench. Let me know if you have a shop manual that gives bolt torque values. If not I can give you those values.

Best of luck.

Last edited by bimmerfan52; 08-29-2012 at 09:28 AM.
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