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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 04-11-2012, 12:12 AM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
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Hey guys a little late. I tried all the suggestions and something I notice is lets suppose I drive the car normally every stop the squealing would happen but if I make hard stop then all the stops following then it doesnt make anymore noise untill I think the pads cool down.. Any idea!!??
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  #27  
Old 04-11-2012, 09:16 PM
kossack47 kossack47 is offline
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could be bad bearings. or hub.
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  #28  
Old 04-11-2012, 09:19 PM
kossack47 kossack47 is offline
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but you said its only squealing while braking.. um i dont think its the wheels. something with the rotors. you said they are brand new right?
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  #29  
Old 04-12-2012, 08:08 AM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
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Yea the rotors are brand new. There Zimmermans and the pads are pagid. The guy at advanced auto parts said I should have pads that are completly ceramic??
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  #30  
Old 04-12-2012, 09:11 AM
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An old trick to get rid of brake squeal is to drill 2 holes the size of pencil leads. Then insert the pencil leads in those 2 holes. The squeal will go away.
BUT: going from style 5 to those M3 reps, is actually downgrading the car.

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  #31  
Old 04-12-2012, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
An old trick to get rid of brake squeal is to drill 2 holes the size of pencil leads. Then insert the pencil leads in those 2 holes. The squeal will go away.
BUT: going from style 5 to those M3 reps, is actually downgrading the car.

0.02
Drill two holes whereee??... idk about this lol and about the wheels? thats an opinion dear sir.
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  #32  
Old 04-12-2012, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by XUMERX View Post
Drill two holes whereee??... idk about this lol and about the wheels? thats an opinion dear sir.
Drill the holes in the brake pads. Small drill bit right through the pad and stop at the backing. One hole at one end of the 1/2 pad, the other at the other end of the 1/2 pad. Insert the lead, and snap it where it's flush with the pad. Braking performance will not suffer a bit.
But the squeal of the pads will go away.
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  #33  
Old 04-12-2012, 11:18 AM
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Or, you could try putting a dab of anti-squeal compound on the backs of the brake pads....cheap and simple, it just might cure your problem.
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  #34  
Old 04-13-2012, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
Or, you could try putting a dab of anti-squeal compound on the backs of the brake pads....cheap and simple, it just might cure your problem.
I tried that.. I even sprayed this film of anti squeal thing on the backing of each pad but no luck. Idk about the holes guys. There is something I noticed, latley it hasnt been making as much noise as in the begining. I think im just going to rebuild my clipers put new seals and change the break fluid that is 12 years old!!
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  #35  
Old 04-13-2012, 10:14 AM
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Did you try bedding the breaks in? Or sanding the surfaces of the pads just a bit. This always seemed to stop my sequels.
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  #36  
Old 04-13-2012, 10:53 AM
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...or wearing of plaid pants...
Well there goes my recommendation.
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  #37  
Old 04-13-2012, 06:28 PM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
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Originally Posted by CoreyMNK View Post
Did you try bedding the breaks in? Or sanding the surfaces of the pads just a bit. This always seemed to stop my sequels.
I tried bedding them in but then after a few hours the squeal comes back....
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  #38  
Old 04-14-2012, 07:03 AM
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Perhaps more information will help get an answer. Perhaps it will make no difference, but maybe someone will recognize an issue once they know all the variables. What was the order of events? Did you install new rotors and pads and then you started to hear the squealing? Or you install new pads with your existing rotors and then you started to hear the squealing?

You said you have Zimmerman rotors and Pagid pads on there now correct? Are the rotors plain, slotted, drilled and what type/model of Pagid pads do you have? Also you said you tried 3 diff pads were they all the same type of pagids or did you try different brands? If so what type of pads were they and in what order did you try them? Are these all brand new pads were are talking about here?

I did not mention anything about the wheels because based on your comments it sounds like you have a brake issue versus a wheel issue. If you are getting a brake squealing sound when you apply the brakes I think the wheel stuff might just be distracting us from the real problem. Was the only change going from your style 5s to your 19s and then squealing started? Or had you made any changes to the brakes prior to of after the wheel install and that is when the squealing started?
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  #39  
Old 04-14-2012, 12:22 PM
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Well this is what happened... I had 50 % pad left and rotors.. when I had my style 5s and then I decided to buy the 19 inch wheels. After I installed them. The squealing started. It doesnt always happen. So I decided to change the pads and rotors. First I tried advanced auto parts pads, didn't work, then I tried some other brand from advanced auto parts all on the old rotor and then I heard it might be the rotor. So i bought a set. 4 zimmerman rotors and all new pagid pads. I did the bedding in process but it help only temporarly. And the rotors are plain.
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  #40  
Old 04-14-2012, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XUMERX View Post
Well this is what happened... I had 50 % pad left and rotors.. when I had my style 5s and then I decided to buy the 19 inch wheels. After I installed them. The squealing started. It doesnt always happen. So I decided to change the pads and rotors. First I tried advanced auto parts pads, didn't work, then I tried some other brand from advanced auto parts all on the old rotor and then I heard it might be the rotor. So i bought a set. 4 zimmerman rotors and all new pagid pads. I did the bedding in process but it help only temporarly. And the rotors are plain.
Suggestion:

Go out and drive it HARD for a bit, like you`re doing an extended bedding session (but DON`T come to a full stop after a 70-to-near-zero run, keep rolling to prevent the brakes from overheating. Give `em a couple miles to cool off, and do it again. That`s what it took last time I did the brakes on my wife`s E36 (Balo rotors/Pagid pads). It took several runs like that before they totally quieted down.
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  #41  
Old 04-14-2012, 11:25 PM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
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Challange accepted!! lol Ill give this a shot tomorrow
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  #42  
Old 04-15-2012, 12:30 AM
e39tuner e39tuner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
going from style 5 to those M3 reps, is actually downgrading the car.
Agree

Have you tried to find rubbing or getting tires rotated even, I'd try slamming on the break from going about 15-20 mph.
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  #43  
Old 04-16-2012, 01:56 PM
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I'd try slamming on the break from going about 15-20 mph.
This is not how you bed BRAKES.....
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  #44  
Old 04-16-2012, 10:41 PM
Silver540i6 Silver540i6 is offline
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What are you going to do with those style 5s?
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  #45  
Old 04-16-2012, 10:44 PM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
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Originally Posted by Silver540i6 View Post
What are you going to do with those style 5s?
I sold them for $1200
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  #46  
Old 04-16-2012, 10:58 PM
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Are you sure there is no contact between the wheel and calipers? or contact between wheel weights and calipers?
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  #47  
Old 04-16-2012, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
Are you sure there is no contact between the wheel and calipers? or contact between wheel weights and calipers?
Im sure. Look the thing that surprises me is when I get the pads hot then they dont sqeal anymore for the day or half a day
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  #48  
Old 04-16-2012, 11:12 PM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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And you used brake grease on all the pads contact points?

edit, you made sure to to apply the grease on ALL the contact points not just the back plate of the pad?
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Last edited by Whorse; 04-16-2012 at 11:15 PM.
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  #49  
Old 04-17-2012, 05:46 AM
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Maybe u have bad wheel bearings. The rotor is attached to one side and the caliper the other. So if the bearing is loose and the wheel wobbles because os it the rotor will therefore slap around inside the caliper. The larger wheel my have increased this as there is less rubber to mush to road variations.
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  #50  
Old 04-17-2012, 08:12 AM
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Told you to try out the pencil led thingy. It's old school, did it in the 60's and 70's.
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