Real vs Dream

Everyone has high hopes and dreams for there e36. I have decided to put those to the side for the moment and think realistic. I still have my oil leak and can seem to find. I double check my reciept for recent work done on the car and i paid for a rear main seal to be replaced, but yet it is leaking. scam artists who charge work but fail to produce, but that different subject.

I need help from e36'ers.

1.) Rear main Seal: is this an easy or simple DIY

2.) Power steering leak: My last option i was think was to replace all the hoses as i need to replace the CV boots anyways.

3.) oil leak: not sure yet. Looking to remove a coil pack to see if i have any oil in that to see if m valve cover is failing. The oil is located on the oil pan but seems smeared there and not really a drip. Will take pictures of everything for you guys to help better locate the problems.

I have no overheating problem. I had a problem with an overheat, but as soon as it when a speck over 12 o clock i shut it down and towed it home. Replace the t-stat and gasket and i have the alumium housing. I am not loosing antifreeze at all, but i have to replace a quart of oil every 2 weeks. Royal purple every 2 weeks kills the wallet. lol.

So i have decide to put my dreams aside and fix the mechanail problems with this car. Thanks for all the past help from some members on here.

Good choice!

- Rear main seal itself is pretty easy to replace.... Getting to it is the problem. You have to take off the transmission and the whole clutch/flywheel kit to get to the seal. If you can do that, then you can do the seal

- I would suggest getting new power steering lines for the leak, not really any other way that I know of Power steering delete? lol

ps delete, that would be nice, but the wifey would kill me for that. another question do 325is come stock with a lsd or is that aftermarket add-on?

i also forgot to add a leak from the rear differential. is this a DIY?

Nice, responsible and mature. This increases the chances of keeping your car running and enjoying it longer. The best advice for e36's = Maintenance before Mods.
My cooling system is due this summer. So I m right with ya.

Where is your PS leak at? I fixed mine easily. Replaced the reservoir and tightened the fittings on the pump. FYI, the reservoir has a built in filter that is nt replaceable and the caps seal leaks after time. Just buy a new one for 35$ if that is one of the problem areas. I flushed my p/s out, changed the res. and tightened things up a bit, and no more leaks. (the old fluid was nasty and smelled as bad as it looked) Much smoother now after the flush too.

I believe the winter package (whats winter?) came with the LSD option... But not all of them . And yeah, theres a thin gasket between the diff and the diff cover, you can replace that (might have to take out the diff to replace it though)

thanks, i was looking into the fan delete mod, until i read if you live in Arizona i highly dont recommend this. so that went out the window. and online stores where you can order all factory or oem bmw parts, besides rockauto.com and bimmerspecialist.com? i order from them both and they dont have the piece i need for my coil pack.

Originally Posted by norcal_baller

thanks, i was looking into the fan delete mod, until i read if you live in Arizona i highly dont recommend this. so that went out the window. and online stores where you can order all factory or oem bmw parts, besides rockauto.com and bimmerspecialist.com? i order from them both and they dont have the piece i need for my coil pack.

Pelican,always.Or ecstuning (2nd)

i need the bolt or nut for the ground strap on cylinder 1 and cylinder 6. where they went i have no clue, but what i have read they are a must or your car could act up? possible for my fluctuate idle at startup? 1.5k then levels out i think at 1k. but it will bounce 2 or three times at startup until leveling out

thanks Arch

Originally Posted by norcal_baller

i need the bolt or nut for the ground strap on cylinder 1 and cylinder 6. where they went i have no clue, but what i have read they are a must or your car could act up? possible for my fluctuate idle at startup? 1.5k then levels out i think at 1k. but it will bounce 2 or three times at startup until leveling out

Typical Idle control Valve issue. (ICV)
Search for the DIY on cleaning it. That should help that.

+1 for pelican parts! Just ordered a few small parts from them a few hours ago

where can i find that bolt for the ground strap on #1 and #6 coils packs. is the bolt a 10mm. if so can i get that anywhere?

Yes its a 10mm... thats a small pc, id say the dealer would be your best bet, but search around on the above vendors

thanks for all the help guys, i wish i had someone more knowledgable with e36's near me

Thats whats the fest is for... But I hear ya, I need a swap and turbo guru neighbor. Then I d be set. heh.
Yer welcome.

other cars i could build them very well, but when it comes to these. so many small parts and tidious work for the e36 to run smoothly

option for you for the Turbo instance

Turbo or supercharger: i would recommend the supercharger over turbo. they always seem to be nicer or friendlier to the vital vulnerable e36 parts

Originally Posted by norcal_baller

other cars i could build them very well, but when it comes to these. so many small parts and tidious work for the e36 to run smoothly

option for you for the Turbo instance

Turbo or supercharger: i would recommend the supercharger over turbo. they always seem to be nicer or friendlier to the vital vulnerable e36 parts

YEah I know, but I want to do slightly concaved (dish pistons) in a stroker build and turbo that. OEM flat pistons and high compression like SC over turbo.

ic, cant wait to see pics when it finished as well as dyno tests

Originally Posted by norcal_baller

i also forgot to add a leak from the rear differential. is this a DIY?

Where is the diff leaking? I know mine's leaking out the driver's side axle seal (i can tell cuz there's a line of goop on the underside of the car that matches up with the seal). As far as i can tell thats a somewhat easy fix (once you remove the diff and drain the fluid...)

i notice it leks directly under the diff. i not sure it runs to that point or if there is a seal internally or on both axle ends.

do the newspaper test. sounds like the main gasket to me though. the axle leak leads to a distinct line of goop on the undercarriage right near where the shaft goes through the diff housing.