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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #1  
Old Today, 09:31 AM
Ayous Ayous is offline
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incompatible Coolant damaging car

I have been worried about the coolant that was put in my car before I purchase the car since its color is bright green and I know BMW's is blue always. I am not sure if the coolant is according to specs ( I know the ones with phosphate and nitrate would ruin aluminum-magnesium engines used in BMWs). However, I don't see any residue or bad sign on the water gauge although twice I needed to add 300-400 ml water within the past year. Is this normal or the car should not lose water at all?

Do you thing that I should take it somewhere for a flush and spend 200 or so?

Is there a cheaper way to figure if the coolant is ok?

I was thinking about using a suction container to take out old stuff and replace it over couple of times so that I don't have to do a full flush and de-airing the system. Is this OK? I read that coolants may react to each other so could the residue from old coolant mess up with new ones? or maybe not doing a complete flush wont fix it!

Thanks for you thoughts.
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  #2  
Old Today, 09:49 AM
CALWATERBOY DUE's Avatar
CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Mein Auto: 09 E93 335i somewhat mod
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayous View Post
I have been worried about the coolant that was put in my car before I purchase the car since its color is bright green and I know BMW's is blue always. I am not sure if the coolant is according to specs ( I know the ones with phosphate and nitrate would ruin aluminum-magnesium engines used in BMWs). However, I don't see any residue or bad sign on the water gauge although twice I needed to add 300-400 ml water within the past year. Is this normal or the car should not lose water at all?

Do you thing that I should take it somewhere for a flush and spend 200 or so?

Is there a cheaper way to figure if the coolant is ok?

I was thinking about using a suction container to take out old stuff and replace it over couple of times so that I don't have to do a full flush and de-airing the system. Is this OK? I read that coolants may react to each other so could the residue from old coolant mess up with new ones? or maybe not doing a complete flush wont fix it!

Thanks for you thoughts.

To flush, or not to flush, that is the question. I say: flush!

>AHEM<

1 Gal BMW blue coolant is <$30 delivered, Amazon - BMW Part No. 82141467704. You'll need a little more than a gal! Dang BMW....but that does come in less than $200. ECS Tuning has for less, but you pay freight. Yo! I like Amazon Prime.

[N52 DIY procedure]





.

Last edited by CALWATERBOY DUE; Today at 09:51 AM.
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  #3  
Old Today, 10:22 AM
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need4speed need4speed is offline
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If it's worrying you, I'd go ahead and change it out. N4S
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  #4  
Old Today, 10:52 AM
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Pilgrim Pilgrim is offline
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Paying someone $200 for a flush makes as much sense as paying someone $50 to brush your teeth. You can do it yourself.
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  #5  
Old Today, 11:22 AM
u3b3rg33k u3b3rg33k is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayous View Post
I have been worried about the coolant that was put in my car before I purchase the car since its color is bright green and I know BMW's is blue always. I am not sure if the coolant is according to specs ( I know the ones with phosphate and nitrate would ruin aluminum-magnesium engines used in BMWs). However, I don't see any residue or bad sign on the water gauge although twice I needed to add 300-400 ml water within the past year. Is this normal or the car should not lose water at all?

Do you thing that I should take it somewhere for a flush and spend 200 or so?

Is there a cheaper way to figure if the coolant is ok?

I was thinking about using a suction container to take out old stuff and replace it over couple of times so that I don't have to do a full flush and de-airing the system. Is this OK? I read that coolants may react to each other so could the residue from old coolant mess up with new ones? or maybe not doing a complete flush wont fix it!

Thanks for you thoughts.
Per BMW, no coolant touches the magnesium outer shell, as that would cause corrosion.
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Although I have nothing scientific to say, I can confidently say that it works.
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  #6  
Old Today, 01:58 PM
Ayous Ayous is offline
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Location: UsA
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
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Mein Auto: 328i
Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY DUE View Post
To flush, or not to flush, that is the question. I say: flush!

>AHEM<

1 Gal BMW blue coolant is <$30 delivered, Amazon - BMW Part No. 82141467704. You'll need a little more than a gal! Dang BMW....but that does come in less than $200. ECS Tuning has for less, but you pay freight. Yo! I like Amazon Prime.

[N52 DIY procedure]





.
I have thought about this, the problem is that I don't have most of the tools and I move cross country every couple of years. BTW, what do you guys use for lifting. Normal trolley jacks with jack pad adapters for BMW?

Thanks for your input
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  #7  
Old Today, 02:00 PM
Ayous Ayous is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by u3b3rg33k View Post
Per BMW, no coolant touches the magnesium outer shell, as that would cause corrosion.
I think nitrate and phosphate react with aluminum ( not sure but I know using a coolant with them ruins the engine).
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  #8  
Old Today, 05:16 PM
CALWATERBOY DUE's Avatar
CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayous View Post
I think nitrate and phosphate react with aluminum ( not sure but I know using a coolant with them ruins the engine).

Nitrite used, not nitrate, and Aluminum is often passivated with silicate.

IMHO octadecylamine in distilled water is excellent, but that's just me.
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  #9  
Old Today, 06:22 PM
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Grubrunner Grubrunner is online now
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It is ALL about compatibility.

Aside from the obvious heat dispersing properties of CORRECT coolant, it serves two other vital properties.

First is anti-corrosion. This is ONLY attained when the correct amount of corrosion fighting properties are added to the coolant. The correct amount of corrosion fighting additives is relevant to the purpose it serves, which in turn is relevant to a specific given task at hand [read: manufacturer].

Next, and to me often overlooked and is right on par with the heat dispersing properties, is lubrication. Yes, lubrication. Next time you have coolant, pour some on your fingers then rub them together. Yes, that 'slippery' feell is the lubrication additives. Coolant contains lubricating properties so, as it travels thru the various roads under your hood, it lubricates each path it encounters, so as not to restrict/limit the flow.

Heat dispersing, anti-corrosion and lubricating properties/additives found in coolant, will vary from brand to brand, manufacturer to manufacturer. Using the wrong or non-recommended coolant is a recipe for disaster.

There are several horror stories on several forums of this type from enthusiasts who have opted the cheap way out when it comes to engine coolant. I was almost one of those many years ago when I took the cheap road on a 2005 GTO. Almost.

Reasons outlined above is also why I'm not an advocate of a certain brand of coolant on the market currently, that claims "all makes, all models, all colors."

Speak with any [reputable] BMW Tech. worth his weight and he'll tell you, absolutely, flush and put the correct coolant in, ASAP.

As many have stated, it is a pretty easy DIY project. However, if you're not up to the task, for whatever reason, go ahead and pay the amount stated.

Under your circumstances, I certainly would in a heartbeat.

Good luck to you.
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