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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 03-21-2012, 08:37 PM
nwilson44 nwilson44 is offline
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540i performance mods

I'm looking for performance minded ideas for my 1995 540i. Start with cheap and gradually go up if you don't mind. I would like to start with what would make the most difference. The car is bone stock right now. Not even a drop in air filter. 124,xxx miles. Automatic. So hard to find even a cold air intake or cat back...... Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 03-21-2012, 11:05 PM
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Don't bother with an automatic.
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  #3  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 1995i540 View Post
Don't bother with an automatic.
Don't be such a downer haha, for OP google search miller w.a.r chip for a start. It's the best ecu chip and you can change settings to your preference. Or start with a nice set of rims, for example my BBS RC 302's. 17x8.5 ET15
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  #4  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:45 AM
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id start with the handling. power is nothing without control
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  #5  
Old 03-22-2012, 04:53 AM
nwilson44 nwilson44 is offline
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What do you mean tune to my preferences?
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  #6  
Old 03-22-2012, 05:10 AM
rdc rdc is offline
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Originally Posted by nwilson44 View Post
I'm looking for performance minded ideas for my 1995 540i. Start with cheap and gradually go up if you don't mind. I would like to start with what would make the most difference. The car is bone stock right now. Not even a drop in air filter. 124,xxx miles. Automatic. So hard to find even a cold air intake or cat back...... Any ideas?
Would someone please explaing how a "cold air intake" will help the performance on an e34? After all the intake in in the grill and draws cold air almost in a straight path into the engine through a large filter.
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  #7  
Old 03-22-2012, 05:57 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Originally Posted by rdc View Post
Would someone please explaing how a "cold air intake" will help the performance on an e34? After all the intake in in the grill and draws cold air almost in a straight path into the engine through a large filter.
A CAI is "supposedly" less restrictive. From everything that I have read, a CAI really doesn't add any measureable HP (unless you do other mods like larger injectors, headers, high flow exhaust etc. and even then the gain is small), but it makes a nice noise

I believe a better mod is the ECU chip as previously mentioned.
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  #8  
Old 03-22-2012, 06:03 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdc View Post
Would someone please explaing how a "cold air intake" will help the performance on an e34? After all the intake in in the grill and draws cold air almost in a straight path into the engine through a large filter.
They really do not help on any car, help make power anyway. They definately help make more intake noise though I wouldn't use an oiled filter either. In almost every condition the stock paper filter flows more than enough and filters better than the others can even dream of.

Back to the OP...

If you want to improve airflow, replace the barn door AFM with an MAF system. That will give you much improved throttle response.

Unless you LIKE having to tune your car, I wouldn't go with the programmable Miller WAR system. Personally I would do the Mass Air Flow meter conversion with a chip on my M30. Better response, more power, no messing with it ever.

I think Magnaflow makes an exhaust for the e34, not sure about the 540.

Accept now that you will NOT get a bunch of cheap HP from this BMW, unless you go forced induction. The car came in a high state of tune from the factory. The engineers did not leave much for amateur tuners to find, so I kind of agree with the "don't bother" comment. Focus on getting it to run its best stock, though I am all for a louder exhaust

Then I would follow the others advice, fit a nice set of wheels, lowering springs/shocks, AFTER everything is done maint wise, and just enjoy the car, it really doesn't need much improvement.

If you think you have a budget for mods, look again. There are thousands in parts that you could, maybe should, be replacing to improve longevity and daily reliability. Just something to think about.

Last edited by snowsled7; 03-22-2012 at 06:07 AM.
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  #9  
Old 03-22-2012, 10:31 AM
nwilson44 nwilson44 is offline
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The car has been extremely reliable. I just sold my 1993 525i because it needed a drivetrain overhaul from torque converter to the drive shaft. But this one hasn't given me any issues. The tranny is moody on cold start ups because I think the previous owner had it flushed with the wrong fluid and It's too viscous. But I definitely want to hear it more but beyond that I don't know what else to start with. Any experience with the dinan chips?
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  #10  
Old 03-22-2012, 10:55 AM
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1995i540 1995i540 is offline
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What's up with wrong descriptions of what CAI does?

CAI has nothing to do with filter/restriction, what CAI means is that there is a sort of block/wall between hot engine comportments elements and your intake (suction).

With CAI you basically block off headers/engine as much as you can so air gets pulled from a less hot element (front of engine bay). Colder air = better performance.
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  #11  
Old 03-22-2012, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by nwilson44 View Post
The car has been extremely reliable. I just sold my 1993 525i because it needed a drivetrain overhaul from torque converter to the drive shaft. But this one hasn't given me any issues. The tranny is moody on cold start ups because I think the previous owner had it flushed with the wrong fluid and It's too viscous. But I definitely want to hear it more but beyond that I don't know what else to start with. Any experience with the dinan chips?
After reading that, you should totally change the fluid. The LAST thing you want is a transmission failure. It'll happen sometimes without notice. And from before, I meant to your preferences by like, how you drive or how aggressive you are on the throttle.
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  #12  
Old 03-22-2012, 11:49 AM
nwilson44 nwilson44 is offline
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I flushed it already but all of the wrong fluid didn't come out. It's kind of expensive to keep flushing without the assurance of it all coming out. The transmission shifts great but after it warms up. It kicks occasionally when you let off the throttle or in normal mode when driven lightly. But I know how to drive around it. But Idk how to flush it completely and I Wana increase engine power. And character
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2012, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwilson44
Start with cheap and gradually go up if you don't mind.
Define "cheap" and we can start from there. Give us a number to work with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995i540
With CAI you basically block off headers/engine as much as you can so air gets pulled from a less hot element (front of engine bay). Colder air = better performance.
A moot point on the E34 or any other daily driver for that matter. They are street cars, which means 99.99% percent of the time, your throttle plate is affecting the airflow through the engine more than any other relevant factor.
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  #14  
Old 03-22-2012, 08:25 PM
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1995i540 1995i540 is offline
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Define "cheap" and we can start from there. Give us a number to work with.

A moot point on the E34 or any other daily driver for that matter. They are street cars, which means 99.99% percent of the time, your throttle plate is affecting the airflow through the engine more than any other relevant factor.
Care to explain? You might not see performance gain during cold weather but without CAI on a hot summer day it will be more sluggish IMHO.
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  #15  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:01 PM
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Care to explain? You might not see performance gain during cold weather but without CAI on a hot summer day it will be more sluggish IMHO.
That's got everything to do with the ambient density altitude for that moment in time, and nothing to do by virtue of the temperature of the intake charge.

What I mean by the throttle plate affecting airflow is, because of the way air is metered through your motor, you control the power output. If the motor makes less power, so be it....you step on the pedal and open up the throttle more. If the temps outside are hot and the engine is making 3% less power that day than previously, unbeknownst to most drivers they are driving around with their gas pedals pushed down further to make up for it.

In short, if you want more power? Step on it. Until you run out of pedal travel (the other .01% of the time) any engine power gains are not being put into service. A CAI isn't doing squat, but making your wallet lighter.

Another way to put this into perspective is:

The 540i automatic can clear from 0 to 60 mph, almost entirely in 1st gear. So long as you floor it right to the firewall. Driving anything short of that, the foot is ultimately holding the engine back.

Spend $300-400 dollars for some poorly executed fabrication, or lay into your pedal a little more. That's all I was getting at.
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  #16  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:40 PM
nwilson44 nwilson44 is offline
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Well Idk if cheap is the right word I guess the right word is simple. Let's start with the simple stuff and go from there.
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  #17  
Old 03-22-2012, 11:22 PM
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1995i540 1995i540 is offline
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Originally Posted by Radian View Post
That's got everything to do with the ambient density altitude for that moment in time, and nothing to do by virtue of the temperature of the intake charge.

What I mean by the throttle plate affecting airflow is, because of the way air is metered through your motor, you control the power output. If the motor makes less power, so be it....you step on the pedal and open up the throttle more. If the temps outside are hot and the engine is making 3% less power that day than previously, unbeknownst to most drivers they are driving around with their gas pedals pushed down further to make up for it.

In short, if you want more power? Step on it. Until you run out of pedal travel (the other .01% of the time) any engine power gains are not being put into service. A CAI isn't doing squat, but making your wallet lighter.

Another way to put this into perspective is:

The 540i automatic can clear from 0 to 60 mph, almost entirely in 1st gear. So long as you floor it right to the firewall. Driving anything short of that, the foot is ultimately holding the engine back.

Spend $300-400 dollars for some poorly executed fabrication, or lay into your pedal a little more. That's all I was getting at.


What does pedal to the metal have to do with anything? It's like saying, who cares about super charger when all your car does is pull throttle cable all the way up.

Colder air has tons of benefits .vs hot air, the cooler the air you get routed into your manifold the better your car will perform. The key is maintain same coolness of the intake as when you start the car after running for a while.


Your rant makes no sense what so ever.
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  #18  
Old 03-23-2012, 12:00 AM
paperplane94 paperplane94 is offline
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The fact of the matter is that the Germans knew what they were designing when they made the stock airbox. (company was Einsatz FYI)

Therefore, there is little gain to be had with a cold air intake except noise.



Also, oiled filters have been known to damage MAF's over an extended period of time.
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  #19  
Old 03-23-2012, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radian View Post
That's got everything to do with the ambient density altitude for that moment in time, and nothing to do by virtue of the temperature of the intake charge.

What I mean by the throttle plate affecting airflow is, because of the way air is metered through your motor, you control the power output. If the motor makes less power, so be it....you step on the pedal and open up the throttle more. If the temps outside are hot and the engine is making 3% less power that day than previously, unbeknownst to most drivers they are driving around with their gas pedals pushed down further to make up for it.

In short, if you want more power? Step on it. Until you run out of pedal travel (the other .01% of the time) any engine power gains are not being put into service. A CAI isn't doing squat, but making your wallet lighter.

Another way to put this into perspective is:

The 540i automatic can clear from 0 to 60 mph, almost entirely in 1st gear. So long as you floor it right to the firewall. Driving anything short of that, the foot is ultimately holding the engine back.

Spend $300-400 dollars for some poorly executed fabrication, or lay into your pedal a little more. That's all I was getting at.
havent seen such a great explanation! spot on champ
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Old 03-23-2012, 06:04 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Originally Posted by 1995i540 View Post


What does pedal to the metal have to do with anything? It's like saying, who cares about super charger when all your car does is pull throttle cable all the way up.

Colder air has tons of benefits .vs hot air, the cooler the air you get routed into your manifold the better your car will perform. The key is maintain same coolness of the intake as when you start the car after running for a while.


Your rant makes no sense what so ever.

Actually I will third the notion that HE had it right, you seem to miss a couple of points.

First, the E34 comes from the factory with cold air intakes no? I know mine draws air from behind the headlight, about as cool as you can get. So why someone elses home fabricated part for any reason other than noise?

Second, I am certain that your notion of the intake tube heating the air passing through it is also easily disproven with science. The air passes through the intake tract so quickly it would be almost impossible to measure the amount of heat transference from the tube or any other part. Just isn't a factor, definately an impressive sounding urban legend though.

Third, Where you went wrong was clinging to the "cold" argument. It was clearly explained that cold is simply one component of the air density which effects engine power. You are missing a host of other factors like barometric pressure and humidity.
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  #21  
Old 03-23-2012, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
Actually I will third the notion that HE had it right, you seem to miss a couple of points.

First, the E34 comes from the factory with cold air intakes no? I know mine draws air from behind the headlight, about as cool as you can get. So why someone elses home fabricated part for any reason other than noise?

Second, I am certain that your notion of the intake tube heating the air passing through it is also easily disproven with science. The air passes through the intake tract so quickly it would be almost impossible to measure the amount of heat transference from the tube or any other part. Just isn't a factor, definately an impressive sounding urban legend though.

Third, Where you went wrong was clinging to the "cold" argument. It was clearly explained that cold is simply one component of the air density which effects engine power. You are missing a host of other factors like barometric pressure and humidity.
We are talking in a general terms, not 540I related. If they want deeper sound and/or less restriction (latter does not apply to 540I's setup) they would have to get a cone type filter which without CAI wall WILL draw hot air unless you do tubing all the way back to head light and insulate it.

The concept of CAI has been around for years... there are DYNO runs that show how much heat affects the car with each pull before and after proper setup.

I never said intake tube is heating the air.... it sucks the hot air generated by car / ambiance.

Yeah... I wounder what will be more humid my friend... colder air or hotter air. Care to clue me in?

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Old 03-23-2012, 06:59 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Originally Posted by 1995i540 View Post
We are talking in a general terms, not 540I related. If they want deeper sound and/or less restriction (latter does not apply to 540I's setup) they would have to get a cone type filter which without CAI wall WILL draw hot air unless you do tubing all the way back to head light and insulate it.
You are still wrong about insulating. Please read carefully... The air passes through the tubing in a fraction of a second. It does not pick up any appreciable tempurature during its journey.

Your argument furthers my point that there is no reason, other than noise, to change the factory intake system.

Quote:
The concept of CAI has been around for years...
The concept of selling the naive on products they just do not need has been around for centuries.

Quote:
there are DYNO runs that show how much heat affects the car with each pull before and after proper setup.
THIS^^^ is NOT the same as a CAI. That is heat soak, the CAI will not help this, UNLESS you are replacing a system that sat above the exhaust or did not otherwise draw outside air LIKE THE STOCK SYSTEM.

It is almost like you want to point out that just going for a cone filter in the engine bay is a bad idea but, I think everybody already knows this. I think the question was the value of an aftermarket CAI system, which is pretty much zero.

Quote:
I never said intake tube is heating the air.... it sucks the hot air generated by car / ambiance.
Still wondering who suggested this set-up anywhere in this thread? Who are you arguing this with?

Quote:
Yeah... I wounder what will be more humid my friend... colder air or hotter air. Care to clue me in?

Sure, all day long

Depends on where you live Einstein. When I lived in Minnesota the air there was very humid, even in the winter. You could see the moisture in the air on icy 0*F mornings, 50-70% humidity.

Now I live in the SW mtns at high altitude. In the summer our 70*F days come with low 20% humidity. You tell me Mr. Sarcastic, which air is more humid?

Interestingly enough you still seem to gloss over the most important factor, barometric pressure. Wanna talk about that one?
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  #23  
Old 03-23-2012, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
You are still wrong about insulating. Please read carefully... The air passes through the tubing in a fraction of a second. It does not pick up any appreciable tempurature during its journey.

Your argument furthers my point that there is no reason, other than noise, to change the factory intake system.



The concept of selling the naive on products they just do not need has been around for centuries.



THIS^^^ is NOT the same as a CAI. That is heat soak, the CAI will not help this, UNLESS you are replacing a system that sat above the exhaust or did not otherwise draw outside air LIKE THE STOCK SYSTEM.

It is almost like you want to point out that just going for a cone filter in the engine bay is a bad idea but, I think everybody already knows this. I think the question was the value of an aftermarket CAI system, which is pretty much zero.



Still wondering who suggested this set-up anywhere in this thread? Who are you arguing this with?




Sure, all day long

Depends on where you live Einstein. When I lived in Minnesota the air there was very humid, even in the winter. You could see the moisture in the air on icy 0*F mornings, 50-70% humidity.

Now I live in the SW mtns at high altitude. In the summer our 70*F days come with low 20% humidity. You tell me Mr. Sarcastic, which air is more humid?

Interestingly enough you still seem to gloss over the most important factor, barometric pressure. Wanna talk about that one?
Guess what happens to humid air as your engine heats it up ever more? Guess what contributes to heat soak?

Dude, just stop it I'm embarrassed for you and your concepts of auto performance.
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Last edited by 1995i540; 03-23-2012 at 07:38 AM.
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  #24  
Old 03-23-2012, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995i540
Your rant makes no sense what so ever.
I feel bad that you interpreted it that way. It wasn't a rant. It was an explanation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsled7
The concept of selling the naive on products they just do not need has been around for centuries.
+1


Back to the original topic

Quote:
Originally Posted by nwilson44
Well Idk if cheap is the right word I guess the right word is simple. Let's start with the simple stuff and go from there.
The recipe reads like this:
1. Larger differential gearing
2. RD front sway bar kit
3. N2O kit ("nitrous")

By the time you reach #3. Your face will hurt from smiling so hard after every ride....and those thoughts of a Cold Air Intake will vaporize as quickly as the tread on your tires.
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:33 AM
nwilson44 nwilson44 is offline
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Guys talk to me about the stage 3 heads from vocmotorsports.com for the M60. And cams. What's the deal with those? Is NOS safe on a motor with 124xxx miles?
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