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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-26-2012, 01:33 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Thumbs down 98 BMW 328i Engine shakes after 2 O2 sensors and Camshaft positioning sensor replaced

I replaced both of the upstream oxygen sensors (bosch brand)
and replaced my camshaft position sensor (duralast brand) Im not a fan of duralast but my plate sticker in Chicago was expired and needed to fix it asap as I failed the emission test.. :/
I took it for a test drive and at the red light as I stopped the car begun to shake a lot.
I released the break a bit to see if it would stop if the car was going but it shook a lot more.
I made sure I secured and tightened the parts that I removed to change the camshaft sensor as I pointed out in the video.
Below is the video.

Big thanks to anyone thats viewed and commented. Your help is very appreciated.

Cheers from Chicago

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  #2  
Old 03-26-2012, 04:18 PM
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well first things first, is your check ingine light on?? if so, then get the codes checked.

it could be related to the cam position sensor, or, it not be related. it could be something else altogether.

also, how long ago were the plugs changed?? you could also have a faulty coil. or crank position sensor.

or something else.

o2 sensors will not cause the engine to shake like that.




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  #3  
Old 03-26-2012, 04:48 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Thanks for the reply.
And yes, sorry I forgot to add that my check engine light went on about 2 months ago, So i went on and got a obdII reader that gave me the following codes

P0340 Intake cam position sensor malfunction.

I replaced the o2 sensors cause i read somewhere that they should be changed after certain thousands of miles. The ones i removed were OEM and old and as rusty as can be...But no codes came out for the o2 sensors. Only the cam positioning sensor.
Also, the car was doing horrible acceleration and shook at idle as well. Before I changed any of these.
Changing the sensor was a huge fix, now it feels like new but at idle shakes a lot.

I don't quite understand what you mean by how long ago were the plugs changed.
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  #4  
Old 03-26-2012, 04:56 PM
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sooo,.....it ran like big fat poop and had a check engine light. for 2 months or so.

replaced cam sensor & o2 sensors, now it idles like poop and stalls...but no check engine light....right??


you may need plugs. i would check them out. they may be fouled.

i would also do the routine maintenance items like clean the icv and throttle body.


check for codes again, you may see some 'pending'. also look for freeze frame data. this sort of stuff can be very helpful.


check for vacuum leaks around the intake boot, they like to tear.


report back with your findings...





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  #5  
Old 03-27-2012, 06:02 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Thanks a bunch, will definitely do all that. And yes check engine is off now. And no new codes popped up.
And plugs you mean spark plugs?
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  #6  
Old 03-28-2012, 08:21 PM
luckeedog luckeedog is offline
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I have run across more than one bad new aftermarket cam sensors. Duralast..........German?
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  #7  
Old 03-29-2012, 02:07 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Pfft no way. Duralast is Autozone's cheapo parts.
Its just that I couldnt wait a whole week if I bought an oem from ebay. My car failed the emission test and this was the code that poped up and my plates had expired for about a month now.
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  #8  
Old 03-29-2012, 10:13 PM
luckeedog luckeedog is offline
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Duralast.....German? was a joke.
Autozone cheapo parts was my point!
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:22 AM
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  #10  
Old 03-30-2012, 08:31 AM
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OOC, is the whole car shaking or is it the engine?

Either way, how are your mounts?

(Both engine and tranny)
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  #11  
Old 04-02-2012, 10:27 AM
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The engine shakes not the car. And I believe its due to misfires cause the exhaust shakes as well. It hadn't done that before.
The tranny mounts dont shake at all.

I read the codes again today and got the following:
Heated O2 sensor bank 2 Sensor 2
Heated O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (which I had changed when I made this article along with bank 1 sensor 1)
Fuel level too low (but the fuel gauge works just fine and turns on when its runing out of fuel)
Cylinder 5 misfire condition
Camshaft position sensor "intake" circuit-bank 1 (the car started shaking after I changed the CMP sensor as stated in the post [duralast brand])
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  #12  
Old 04-03-2012, 10:20 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Quesiton: Would an amplifier capacitor give poor electricity to any of these sensors? I bought a new battery along with my 15" woofer, 1000w amp and a capacitor.
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  #13  
Old 04-03-2012, 11:49 PM
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Unless you wired the sensors through the capacitor, no, it would have zero effect on them. Do your lights still dim when the bass hits?
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  #14  
Old 04-04-2012, 08:13 PM
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Not at all, it handles pretty low bass very nice.
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  #15  
Old 04-05-2012, 04:43 AM
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check the relays for the o2 sensors. it's the heated circuit fault, not a sensor fault.

as for the cylinder #5 misfire, take that coil and replace it with a different cylinder, and swap out the plug to yet another cylinder. keep track of which goes where. if the misfire moves then you have a better idea as to the culprit.

if it stays the same, then you need to see what is going on in that cylinder. it *could* be related to the cam position sensor, or it could be something else. given that your condition of shaking occured after the cam position sensor installation i would tend to lean that way.

while i am not an advocate of doing so on every case, try unplugging the cam position sensor while running and see if it falls into default mode. if it tends to run better, with no shaking, then you may have found your problem.

report back with your findings, please.




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  #16  
Old 04-05-2012, 04:49 AM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Thumbs up

First of all your help is very appreciated.
And I bought an OEM Camshaft sensor it should arrive tomorrow. I will replace the Duralast sensor I had installed, will report the results on that matter.

As for the coil, I wil swap it around, clear and read codes again.
Note: All the replaced spark plugs were clean, didn't look burnt and no oil was found. Same with the coils, clean as can be.

Huge THanks!
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  #17  
Old 04-05-2012, 05:38 AM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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I just drove about 5 miles in normal temp. with the Camshaft sensor pluged off. Car had poor acceleration (5 of a 10 scale), but engine did not shake anymore when idle.
Does this mean I bought a faulty CMP sensor? (anyway i have an OEM on the way)

I will do the coils switching later and repot back with my findings. I need to drive my girl to her job
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  #18  
Old 04-05-2012, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicdroid View Post
I just drove about 5 miles in normal temp. with the Camshaft sensor pluged off. Car had poor acceleration (5 of a 10 scale), but engine did not shake anymore when idle.
Does this mean I bought a faulty CMP sensor?
(anyway i have an OEM on the way)

I will do the coils switching later and repot back with my findings. I need to drive my girl to her job
Based on this information, I would say yes, it sounds like a bad sensor.
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  #19  
Old 04-06-2012, 09:55 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Shocker: I just swaped the Duralast CMP sensor for an OEM branded CMP sensor and shook the same way as it did with the Duralast sensor...
Should I replace the exhaust cam sensor?

Im waiting for a Actron CP9580 for tomorrows delivery. The obd reader I got is too cheapo and doesn't do much.


Thanks for all your help people. It is greatly appreciated.
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  #20  
Old 04-06-2012, 10:27 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Could you guide me to where I can locate the o2 sensor relays?
are they in the fusebox?
thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
check the relays for the o2 sensors. it's the heated circuit fault, not a sensor fault.

as for the cylinder #5 misfire, take that coil and replace it with a different cylinder, and swap out the plug to yet another cylinder. keep track of which goes where. if the misfire moves then you have a better idea as to the culprit.

if it stays the same, then you need to see what is going on in that cylinder. it *could* be related to the cam position sensor, or it could be something else. given that your condition of shaking occured after the cam position sensor installation i would tend to lean that way.

while i am not an advocate of doing so on every case, try unplugging the cam position sensor while running and see if it falls into default mode. if it tends to run better, with no shaking, then you may have found your problem.

report back with your findings, please.




df
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  #21  
Old 04-07-2012, 02:20 PM
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you should have a guide on the inside of the fuse/relay center lid.


and is this the scan tool?? http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9580-.../dp/B003IOITRG

when you hook it up, look at the rpm and snap the throttle. how fast does the display follow the actual rpm?? the faster the better. real time would be wonderful, but i do not think it will be so.

since it states graphing capabilities, and i like to use that as a diagnostic tool, see if it displays the throttle position sensor. then do the same snap throttle response and see what the graph looke like. if the rpm return back to normal idle before the graph displays then it is pretty much useless for any sort of real diagnostic proceedures.

let me know, k??



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Old 04-07-2012, 06:49 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Yes thats the reader I got in the mail today. Tons of features. Its great.
The RPM on idle is 690 to 750
While snapping the throttle goes from that to 6400 in what appears to be 1 scan per second.


Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
You should have a guide on the inside of the fuse/relay center lid.
and is this the scan tool?? http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9580-.../dp/B003IOITRG

when you hook it up, look at the rpm and snap the throttle. how fast does the display follow the actual rpm?? the faster the better. real time would be wonderful, but i do not think it will be so.

since it states graphing capabilities, and i like to use that as a diagnostic tool, see if it displays the throttle position sensor. then do the same snap throttle response and see what the graph looke like. if the rpm return back to normal idle before the graph displays then it is pretty much useless for any sort of real diagnostic proceedures.

let me know, k??



df
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  #23  
Old 04-07-2012, 09:09 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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OK so here are the monitor test that this thing could not complete (Inc for incomplete)
1. Catalyst Mon.
2. Evap System Mon.
3. Sec Air System Mon.
4. Oxygen Sensor Mon.
5. Oxygen Sensor Hrt.

And current codes after a whole day of using the car. (I did a Erase Codes in the morning there were 10 now they're only 5)

1. P0305 cylinder 5 misfire
2. P0141 oxygen sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2
3. P0161 oxygen sensor heater circuit bank 2 sensor 2

And these are 'PENDING'
1. P0141 oxygen sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2
2. P0161 oxygen sensor heater circuit bank 2 sensor 2


What does the pending status mean?
Thanks!
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  #24  
Old 04-08-2012, 04:24 AM
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pending codes are codes that have been flagged to be set. all obd2 vehicles will do self checks within given parameters, and, when the pcm 'sees' a failure, it will set it up as 'pending' and retest to confirm. if the selftest results in a failure again, then the mil is illuminated.

the only codes that do not need to be seen twice are misfire codes, as they can harm the cat. they have to be pretty severe, though, and usually result in a flashing mil.



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  #25  
Old 04-08-2012, 09:00 AM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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So I swapped coil 5 and 4 last night. Checked for errors this morning after a 20 mile drive and no misfire codes appeared.

And my car failed the emission test. Thought Id mention that.
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