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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 04-08-2012, 05:16 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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well...did you swap out the plug as well to isolate the cylinder from the plug from the coil??

and what were the readings??




df
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  #27  
Old 04-08-2012, 05:22 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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I did swap the plugs as well as the coil to the next cylinder.
Even though all plugs are new bosch plugs.
Reading still says cylinder 5 misfire. :/
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  #28  
Old 04-08-2012, 05:40 PM
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ok, so if the coil has been moved to a different cylinder as well as the plug, then you are looking at something in the cylinder that is causign the misfire.

my initial feeling is a bad valve.

hove you done a compression test?? i suggest doing a static and running compression test to the cylinders.

the first 'puff' of the static compression test is a pretty good indicator of what the running compression should be, so pay close attention to that. it mught be best to have a helper.

the running test only needs to be a few seconds for each cylinder, but can point to a potential problem within the cylinder.

also a leakdown test is a good test to do, but if you are not an experienced diy'er it's sorta kinda a difficult test to 'get it right' and not still have questions.

plus you need an air compressor.



df
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  #29  
Old 04-09-2012, 12:44 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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This is the result of the reader real time eng. rpm:


And this morning the car started making this sound when accelerating:


Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
you should have a guide on the inside of the fuse/relay center lid.


and is this the scan tool?? http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9580-.../dp/B003IOITRG

when you hook it up, look at the rpm and snap the throttle. how fast does the display follow the actual rpm?? the faster the better. real time would be wonderful, but i do not think it will be so.

since it states graphing capabilities, and i like to use that as a diagnostic tool, see if it displays the throttle position sensor. then do the same snap throttle response and see what the graph looke like. if the rpm return back to normal idle before the graph displays then it is pretty much useless for any sort of real diagnostic proceedures.

let me know, k??



df
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  #30  
Old 04-09-2012, 12:50 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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I did some research and have an understanding of the compression test. I will do that today, ill head back here with my findings. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
ok, so if the coil has been moved to a different cylinder as well as the plug, then you are looking at something in the cylinder that is causign the misfire.

my initial feeling is a bad valve.

hove you done a compression test?? i suggest doing a static and running compression test to the cylinders.

the first 'puff' of the static compression test is a pretty good indicator of what the running compression should be, so pay close attention to that. it mught be best to have a helper.

the running test only needs to be a few seconds for each cylinder, but can point to a potential problem within the cylinder.

also a leakdown test is a good test to do, but if you are not an experienced diy'er it's sorta kinda a difficult test to 'get it right' and not still have questions.

plus you need an air compressor.



df
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  #31  
Old 04-10-2012, 10:32 AM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
check the relays for the o2 sensors. it's the heated circuit fault, not a sensor fault.

as for the cylinder #5 misfire, take that coil and replace it with a different cylinder, and swap out the plug to yet another cylinder. keep track of which goes where. if the misfire moves then you have a better idea as to the culprit.

if it stays the same, then you need to see what is going on in that cylinder. it *could* be related to the cam position sensor, or it could be something else. given that your condition of shaking occured after the cam position sensor installation i would tend to lean that way.

while i am not an advocate of doing so on every case, try unplugging the cam position sensor while running and see if it falls into default mode. if it tends to run better, with no shaking, then you may have found your problem.

report back with your findings, please.




df
Good news.
This morning the code finally came up. Cylinder 4 misfire! Even though its on 'PENDING'
So, does this mean the coil went bad? Since all plugs are new?
If so, do I need to replace all 6 coils at once or can I replace a single coil for now?

Also, a set of 6 Bosch fuel injectors are on the way. Since the one's its got on look pretty old, they might get clogged soon. The previous owner didn't take care of this thing at all. Most of the parts I've replaced are rusty old oems. Like it was a b**** to take out the control arms n bushings.
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  #32  
Old 04-10-2012, 10:51 AM
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wag-zhp wag-zhp is offline
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Replacing one coil pack at a time is fine.
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  #33  
Old 04-11-2012, 08:22 PM
vicdroid vicdroid is offline
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Good news 2.0
The shaking finally came to an end. And the car now runs like a beast again 0-60 in 7 secs
Replace both new emission relays for new ones, replaced the faulty coil for a new bosch coil, bought the two downstream o2 sensors they should be in my mailbox soon.

I spent quite some cash on all this stuff and tools I bought. So my girlfriend was like, oh couldn't you just have taken it to a mechanic and spent around the same?
And then it thought of you people and replied; You have no idea what you're talking about.

Thanks a lot everyone.

I still need to fix the incomplete monitors to pass Chicago's emission test:
1. Catalyst Mon.
2. Evap System Mon.
3. Sec Air System Mon.
4. Oxygen Sensor Mon.
5. Oxygen Sensor Hrt.

So if anyone knows how, your help is greatly appreciated. And youre awesome.
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