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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki |
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#1
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Ball joints question
How do u get them off??my brute force and hammer is not working. Lol thought i would replace them bow since it looked easier since im installing the struts right now but after a couple blows with the hammer it does not pop off
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#2
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I think you need a press but maybe thats why most places just sell the whole control arm(comes with the ball joints) instead of the ball joints themselves.
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Thank you god for putting BMW on this planet. |
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#3
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i would think you would need the ball joint separator.
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#4
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Talking about removing the balljoints from the lower control arm, or the balljoints from the knuckle??
BJs from LCA - Shop Press BJs from Steering Knuckle - Pickle fork, PB Blaster, Hammer, and depending on how long they've been in there... lots of patience. It took me about an hour on the most stubborn side. Craig
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Winter: 1997 DOHC I-6 2.8L 5Spd BMW 328is (2-Door) Summer: 1992 DOHC I-4 2.0L 5Spd Toyota MR-2 Turbo (2-Seat) Summer: 1983/1984/2007 Honda CB550SC/VF500F/CBR600RR (2-Wheel) |
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#5
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I should have waited to do that job separate.. Lol so now i have to remove the lower control arm and have them pressed out? Thought i would have her on the road again in the morning but now i gotta wait for monday for shops to open and have them pressed out? Fml
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#6
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Truthfully, most recommend replacing the LCA's opposed to the ball joints in them, for 2 reasons.
1. LCA's aren't terribly expensive, ~$109 ea. for Lemfoerders IIRC. 2. Pressing ball joints into them can bend the LCA's. Then you have to replace them anyways. It's easier to do it the right way the first time. Good luck, Ed.
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The Evolution of a Lady Quote:
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#7
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^Very correct. I always recommend name brands but if your on a budget you can get URO/APA C/Arms from amazon for like $55
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Thank you god for putting BMW on this planet. |
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#8
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Thanks for the info so either way im gonna be car less another couple days
Sux ..
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#9
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From personal experience, I highly recommend staying away from the cheapo control arms & ball joints. Get Lemforders.
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1998 BMW 328is 1966 Pontiac GTO 2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
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#10
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^agreed but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do
__________________
Thank you god for putting BMW on this planet. |
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#11
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Which is cheaper (1) buy the lowest price URO parts and have to replace them in less than a year, or (2) pay 25-30% more for Lemforders and have a trouble-free suspension for the next 5+ years?
__________________
Quotes to live by: guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13 Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, Honorary Forum Grandpa/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff BMW-CCA #441426 1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia" I NEED A NAP, DANG IT! Last edited by hornhospital; 04-08-2012 at 04:49 PM. |
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#12
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Lemforder ball joints or Meyle HD ball joints are fine.
By the way I reused my M3 control arms so I would have no down time including repainting and new lolipops LCABs. Force to press out the ball joints on a 25 ton press was close to 5000 pounds. There is no issue with bending anything if you use the right press and support. |
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#13
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Suspension maintenance blows
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#14
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True, but the rewards are more than worth it.
__________________
Quotes to live by: guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13 Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, Honorary Forum Grandpa/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff BMW-CCA #441426 1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia" I NEED A NAP, DANG IT! |
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#15
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Yea thats true. Especially when u do the work your self
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#16
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So i finished putting the lower control arms back on with the new ball joints pressed in and new struts.. What a difference!!!
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#17
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You don't technically have to take the arm off. Remove the brakes the parking brakes and the backing plate. Then fashion a mount for a 1t piston jack out of 2 pieces of steel. Then press it out without taking the arm off. I used a 1 3/8 socket to press out I believe.
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#18
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JoshuaG:
Those are confusing instructions. Why would you disconnect the parking brake? There is no parking brake setup at the front of the car?
__________________
Winter: 1997 DOHC I-6 2.8L 5Spd BMW 328is (2-Door) Summer: 1992 DOHC I-4 2.0L 5Spd Toyota MR-2 Turbo (2-Seat) Summer: 1983/1984/2007 Honda CB550SC/VF500F/CBR600RR (2-Wheel) |
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#19
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eh..... elaborate on those instructions. those are getting me lost.
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