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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-07-2012, 08:36 PM
David325is David325is is offline
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Ball joints question

How do u get them off??my brute force and hammer is not working. Lol thought i would replace them bow since it looked easier since im installing the struts right now but after a couple blows with the hammer it does not pop off
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  #2  
Old 04-07-2012, 08:39 PM
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BiGPaPaRu BiGPaPaRu is offline
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I think you need a press but maybe thats why most places just sell the whole control arm(comes with the ball joints) instead of the ball joints themselves.
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2012, 09:33 PM
norcal_baller norcal_baller is offline
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i would think you would need the ball joint separator.
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  #4  
Old 04-07-2012, 10:30 PM
Leusent Leusent is offline
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Talking about removing the balljoints from the lower control arm, or the balljoints from the knuckle??

BJs from LCA - Shop Press
BJs from Steering Knuckle - Pickle fork, PB Blaster, Hammer, and depending on how long they've been in there... lots of patience. It took me about an hour on the most stubborn side.

Craig
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  #5  
Old 04-07-2012, 10:49 PM
David325is David325is is offline
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I should have waited to do that job separate.. Lol so now i have to remove the lower control arm and have them pressed out? Thought i would have her on the road again in the morning but now i gotta wait for monday for shops to open and have them pressed out? Fml
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  #6  
Old 04-08-2012, 04:49 AM
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jonesin jonesin is offline
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Truthfully, most recommend replacing the LCA's opposed to the ball joints in them, for 2 reasons.

1. LCA's aren't terribly expensive, ~$109 ea. for Lemfoerders IIRC.
2. Pressing ball joints into them can bend the LCA's. Then you have to replace them anyways.

It's easier to do it the right way the first time.

Good luck,

Ed.
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  #7  
Old 04-08-2012, 06:13 AM
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BiGPaPaRu BiGPaPaRu is offline
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^Very correct. I always recommend name brands but if your on a budget you can get URO/APA C/Arms from amazon for like $55
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  #8  
Old 04-08-2012, 08:51 AM
David325is David325is is offline
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Thanks for the info so either way im gonna be car less another couple days Sux ..
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  #9  
Old 04-08-2012, 09:04 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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From personal experience, I highly recommend staying away from the cheapo control arms & ball joints. Get Lemforders.
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  #10  
Old 04-08-2012, 09:06 AM
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BiGPaPaRu BiGPaPaRu is offline
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^agreed but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do
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  #11  
Old 04-08-2012, 12:06 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Which is cheaper (1) buy the lowest price URO parts and have to replace them in less than a year, or (2) pay 25-30% more for Lemforders and have a trouble-free suspension for the next 5+ years?
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Last edited by hornhospital; 04-08-2012 at 04:49 PM.
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  #12  
Old 04-08-2012, 02:54 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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Lemforder ball joints or Meyle HD ball joints are fine.
By the way I reused my M3 control arms so I would have no down time including repainting and new lolipops LCABs.
Force to press out the ball joints on a 25 ton press was close to 5000 pounds.
There is no issue with bending anything if you use the right press and support.
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  #13  
Old 04-08-2012, 07:22 PM
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r33p04s r33p04s is offline
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Suspension maintenance blows
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  #14  
Old 04-08-2012, 07:46 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r33p04s View Post
Suspension maintenance blows
True, but the rewards are more than worth it.
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  #15  
Old 04-08-2012, 07:51 PM
David325is David325is is offline
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Yea thats true. Especially when u do the work your self
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  #16  
Old 04-09-2012, 07:54 PM
David325is David325is is offline
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So i finished putting the lower control arms back on with the new ball joints pressed in and new struts.. What a difference!!!
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  #17  
Old 04-09-2012, 09:36 PM
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JoshuaG JoshuaG is offline
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You don't technically have to take the arm off. Remove the brakes the parking brakes and the backing plate. Then fashion a mount for a 1t piston jack out of 2 pieces of steel. Then press it out without taking the arm off. I used a 1 3/8 socket to press out I believe.
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  #18  
Old 04-10-2012, 10:17 AM
Leusent Leusent is offline
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JoshuaG:
Those are confusing instructions. Why would you disconnect the parking brake? There is no parking brake setup at the front of the car?
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  #19  
Old 04-10-2012, 09:06 PM
norcal_baller norcal_baller is offline
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eh..... elaborate on those instructions. those are getting me lost.
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