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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #151  
Old 08-21-2012, 09:05 AM
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Location: High River, Alberta, canada
 
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snapped a exhaust mani stud.
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  #152  
Old 08-21-2012, 08:39 PM
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Got the magnaflow cat back off tonight. Just takin the rust off with phosphoric acid in the pic trying to decide wether to powder coat or hightemp paint. And should i leave the muffler stainless or should i color it the same the rest of the pipes

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  #153  
Old 08-21-2012, 08:40 PM
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  #154  
Old 08-21-2012, 08:48 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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That's a no-brainer. Powder coat won't work. The exhaust heat will ruin it.
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  #155  
Old 08-22-2012, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
That's a no-brainer. Powder coat won't work. The exhaust heat will ruin it.
guess thats makes it easy. I'm kind of a powdercoat newb so ya guess I'll high temp it.
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  #156  
Old 08-23-2012, 09:17 AM
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I forgot how awesome this thread is. So this restoration has turned into a full strip and rebuild? Sounds fun!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e36 miguel View Post
this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
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  #157  
Old 08-23-2012, 09:25 AM
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Yeah, it's awesome that you're restoring a car that isn't actually worth very much money. It's about the journey and being able to create your own ride.
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  #158  
Old 08-23-2012, 09:28 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Yeah, it's awesome that you're restoring a car that isn't actually worth very much money. It's about the journey and being able to create your own ride.
Sounds real familiar. Truth be told, Elvira should have been scrapped/parted out. Well, I wanted a(nother) project. I dang sure got one.
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  #159  
Old 08-23-2012, 10:19 AM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petriej View Post
I forgot how awesome this thread is. So this restoration has turned into a full strip and rebuild? Sounds fun!
it is the most fun I've ever had working on a car. I'm glad your enjoying following!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Yeah, it's awesome that you're restoring a car that isn't actually worth very much money. It's about the journey and being able to create your own ride.
its not about the money for me. if I was trying to make money on it I would have done the 5gallon restoration(bondo) and flogged it on craigs list. but I honestly love driving this car, and I want it to last a very long time thats why I'm trying to find every little bit of rust and every little dent and make it disappear haha. and I plan for this project to be the first of many bmws I restore so I figgure Id better learn these cars inside and out. thanks for your comment!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Sounds real familiar. Truth be told, Elvira should have been scrapped/parted out. Well, I wanted a(nother) project. I dang sure got one.
if you look back at the first few posts I was considering selling it off and starting with a car less fargone but hell if I cant take care of rust on the rockers there wouldnt be much of a future for me in restoring a car. plus not having a project sucks, I didnt have one for about a year and I was so bored...
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  #160  
Old 08-25-2012, 12:52 PM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is online now
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Is there any step by step instructions with pictures on how to pull an m52? Ive searched but nothing really detailed has come up. Thanks in advance. OT but heres a pic of an xbox i airbrushed lastnight

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  #161  
Old 08-25-2012, 01:15 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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You should get in touch with CJ. He's pulled so many E36 engines he can probably do it in 1 hour with his eyes closed.
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  #162  
Old 08-26-2012, 08:21 AM
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DEATH2000 DEATH2000 is offline
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How well did the phosphoric acid work to remove the rust? Are you using it on anything else or just the muffler? Never heard of someone using that before for rust removal.
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  #163  
Old 08-26-2012, 08:15 PM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is online now
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Im useing it on every rust part of my bmw that i cant wire brush. It neutralizies the rust so that it wount eat away at the metal anymore. You just have to make sure you rinse it with water and dry it then seal it with a primer sealer or it will start rusting again because it is still bare metal and any kind of moisture will attack it. But ya it works really good for the more hard to get to spots or if i am busy with somthing else i can apply it for a rusty area then come back 1/2 hr later and rinse it off, no elbow greese required. If you looking for it locally you wount find plain old phosphoric at your home hardware. Try looking in the bathroom cleaners and look for a toilet bowl acid with phosphoric as the acting acid. That outta do the trick! I will see if i can find time to do a little show and tell tomorrow and take a bunch of pics for everyone.


Ps. I bought a T3 with intercooler and piping.... Hehehe pics tomorrow

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  #164  
Old 08-27-2012, 09:13 AM
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cj.surr cj.surr is offline
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Hey, saw your PM, and I figured I would post here in case anybody else wants the info.

The second lift point is located at the back of the block, near the top of the bell housing. You have to remove the intake manifold to get to it on a 6cyl engine.

Here's a walk-through that I wrote for Dino.

Quote:
Ok, first thing you wanna do is remove everything in front of the engine. Then remove the intake manifold so you can get to the lift points (bracket by vanos and loop at the rear of the block). Remove all the fuel lines, coolant lines, power steering lines, wires, and everything else that attaches the engine to the car. Also, disconnect the a/c pump from the engine, but do NOT disconnect the A/C lines. Leave the whole system in the car, including the condenser (in front of rad).


Then you wanna remove the exhaust, you can leave the manifold on. I would suggest dropping the midpipe and muffler together. That way you don't have to disconnnect the two. You just have to be careful. You might need another set of hands or a jack. don't forget the O2 sensor wiring. Take off the heat shields if they're present.

Next comes the transmission. Unbolt the trans mount so that it's kinda hanging. Remove the 3 bolts for the drive shaft (there's six, but look carefully, you only need to remove 3). Then disconnect the two bolts for the DS center bearing. You should be able to now drop the drive shaft. It may take a some pulling and wiggling to get it out of the trans output flange.

Then you wanna disconnect the shifter linkage. If you don't know how to do that, search up pelican's article on replacing the shifter bushings.

At this point, it's almost ready to come out. Double check that there's nothing else that's still connected to the car because I might have forgotten something. Now take your engine lift (you'll need a leveler), and attach it with grade 8.8 or higher bolts and nuts to the two lift points. You want the engine leveler to be at an angle of maybe 25deg above horizontal. With the higher point facing the front of the car. This way you'll be able to get it out in one piece. Now pump the engine lift until the chains are just barely taught. Don't pull up on it yet. Now unbolt the engine mount arms from the rubber mount. The trick is to leave the rubber mounts on the subframe. It give you much more room too each side when the engine is coming out.

Now start pumping up the engine lift. It should obviously come out of the mounts and lift. Make sure the engine isn't getting caught on the firewall. You might have to carefully let it back down and play with the angle on the leveler to get it right. Once you have it high enough that you have access to the steering rack, drop it. Just disconnect the rack from the subframe (two bolt/nuts) and from the column. You don't have to disconnect the tie rods, you can just leave it hanging down. That's the second trick, because it's almost impossible to remove the engine without the oil pan getting caught on the steering column.

The rest is just pulling the engine lift out and up. You'll have to play around to get it right. Just be careful you don't get it caught on anything.
Don't have many good pictures, unfortunately. I do have a time lapse video if you want to see a basic outline of what you'll be doing.

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  #165  
Old 08-27-2012, 08:23 PM
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Oooo thanks!!

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  #166  
Old 08-31-2012, 06:18 AM
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so i help my buddy pull the rb20 out of his skyline last night and he said if I wetsand his whole car and polish it, I can have the turbo and intercooler and piping from it, Im kinda a turbo noob so can anyone tell me if the stock GTST RB20DET turbo a good reliable turbo? so should I look elsewhere. also he said its a ball bearing turbo which he says is better then the traditional turbo, still doesnt mean to much to me. anyone like to chime in?
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  #167  
Old 09-03-2012, 04:49 PM
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so I started on the intake manifold today, there's alot more to taking that thing off then I thought but ya its off, I got the fuel line disconnected as well as the shift linkage and I dropped the drive shaft and a buddy of mine came and cut out the windshields. a good day, here are some pics.
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  #168  
Old 09-03-2012, 05:30 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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jeezz thatsalotta work!!!


makes me wish i had a garage so that i could have either the e28 or cadence in there to do some work to regardless of the weather or daylight.


werkin outside with lights is teh sux...


anyway, good luck with this endeavor!!!


and cj, love the vid!!



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  #169  
Old 09-04-2012, 09:09 PM
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So engine is out. The steering nuckle was a pain in the ass as it was seized so tight nothing but the impact would loosen the nuts. but other then that it went smooth. Pics... and thanks CJ for all that info helped out alot

now the real fun begins haha
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  #170  
Old 09-04-2012, 10:12 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Yeeah!
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  #171  
Old 09-06-2012, 08:52 AM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is online now
Josh
Location: High River, Alberta, canada
 
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can anyone tell me what kind of engine this code brings up

1 748 754 9
032 226

thanks
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  #172  
Old 09-06-2012, 10:35 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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It doesn't. From Realoem.com: The specified part 17487549032226 was not found.
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
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  #173  
Old 09-06-2012, 10:43 AM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
It doesn't. From Realoem.com: The specified part 17487549032226 was not found.
nevermind, I had a thought there that maybe it was an s52 in camo... but, as it turns out the vin on the back of le motor matches the car.
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  #174  
Old 09-08-2012, 11:25 AM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is online now
Josh
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more pics. some better quality ones from after the pull. also a little work on one of the cross members I'm thinking all the suspension parts and cross members are gunna go orange with black accenting parts. tell me what you guys think. and I've narrowed down the colors to apline white with added metallic or, mauritius blue. enjoy and comment.
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  #175  
Old 09-10-2012, 12:06 PM
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jkmeisl jkmeisl is online now
Josh
Location: High River, Alberta, canada
 
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how much would you pay for these seats? m3 dove power seats, out of a 96 m3. plan is to recover.
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