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E60 / E61 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series E60 Sedan was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E61 wagon followed shortly there after. The E60/E61 5 series is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-14-2016, 09:39 PM
SpiderBy SpiderBy is offline
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Location: Issaquah, WA
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 535i manual
Fuel pump errors

Hi folks,

Researched a lot of forums but still not sure where to start from.
Recently my 2008 535i (59k miles) started showing me "Fuel pump" warning as depicted here.
HPFP and injectors were replaced in 2011 by the previous owner at 32k miles under the recall.

Got the cable from euautohaus and configured EDIABAS, INPA etc.
INPA reported the following errors:
DME:
2AAE Fuel Pump
2AAF Fuel Pump, plausibility
2A2D Fuel low-pressure system, fuel pressure
EKPS:
6291 Control voltage too high
6293 Control current too high
Cleared the codes, drove around, all codes returned except 2A2D.

Ran the engine and monitored, fuel low pressure sensor is reading around 5000 hPa so I don't think it is a faulty sensor as it was the case here.
My LPFP is engaged and buzzes for a few second when I open the door.
No long cranking or rough idle, the car drives OK, tested today acceleration with WOT, subjectively it feels like the car is a bit sluggish, but definitely not in a limp mode.
No new codes showed up after test drive with WOT.

Should I start with replacing aging LPFP first?
Found a post from some guy on another forum that he had exactly the same error codes and HPFP and LPFP replacement did not help.
Could it be a faulty EKPS (Fuel control module)?
Appreciate any suggestions on getting to the root cause.
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  #2  
Old 05-14-2016, 10:29 PM
God-Follower God-Follower is offline
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Possible it is your EKPS, but I would lean towards a pump first. I would recommend using an inductive amp clamp and measuring how much current your fuel pump is pulling during operation, that should allow you to isolate if it is a pump drawing too much power or an EKPS module wigging out.

Based on the combination of high current faults and low fuel pressure faults, I would bet it is the pump itself



Kudos on doing your research by the way, nice to see someone making informed decisions instead of just coming in and screaming "HELP ME MY ENGINE LIGHT IS ON!"
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Last edited by God-Follower; 05-14-2016 at 10:30 PM.
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  #3  
Old 05-15-2016, 12:01 AM
SpiderBy SpiderBy is offline
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Location: Issaquah, WA
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 535i manual
God-Follower, thank you for the prompt response!

Never used an inductive amp clamp before, would something simple like this do the job?
Any pointers where I can see how much current the LPFP is supposed to draw for the normal operation?

I also tend to think the LPFP is the main suspect and even if it is not then it would be a good preventive maintenance, though not cheap - the min cost I found for an OEM LPFP pump is $270 shipped.
Will definitely update the thread with my findings and follow-up once I get the problem fixed.
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  #4  
Old 05-15-2016, 05:51 AM
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edes300 edes300 is offline
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Do you have any drivability issues? I have a similar problem but I only get the warning with heavy acceleration but no drivability problem or hesitation. It's been there for more than two years now but I choose to watch it.
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  #5  
Old 05-15-2016, 07:21 AM
God-Follower God-Follower is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpiderBy View Post
God-Follower, thank you for the prompt response!

Never used an inductive amp clamp before, would something simple like this do the job?
Any pointers where I can see how much current the LPFP is supposed to draw for the normal operation?

I also tend to think the LPFP is the main suspect and even if it is not then it would be a good preventive maintenance, though not cheap - the min cost I found for an OEM LPFP pump is $270 shipped.
Will definitely update the thread with my findings and follow-up once I get the problem fixed.
That one looks like the inductive clamp only reads AC current, you need one that does DC current(or AC and DC). Sears has a good cheap Craftsman one that does AC/DC and has a built in DMM like the one you posted. Was like $45 when I bought mine years ago. Model 82369.

You could also try using your meter's inline current measurement ability, but there is a decent chance the pump will peak at more than 20A and pop the fuse in you meter.

As for a current spec, I would see if any are posted here from other users. If not, I would venture an estimate of 9-15A while running(not when it first starts running) based on what I have seen in the past. Not 100% on that though.
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  #6  
Old 05-15-2016, 11:13 AM
SpiderBy SpiderBy is offline
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God-Follower, thanks a lot for enlightening me, just bought the exact same ammeter from Sears ($60 after tax) and will pick up today.
Will research the pump specs and post my readings once I get to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by edes300 View Post
Do you have any drivability issues? I have a similar problem but I only get the warning with heavy acceleration but no drivability problem or hesitation. It's been there for more than two years now but I choose to watch it.
It is hard to say if I have drivability issues. I just feel the car was more responsive a year ago but it could be just me, used to have all the oomph. No any new codes or warning after aggressive driving yesterday with WOT.
In any case I can't live with any warnings thrown into my face every time I stop the engine Even a small exclamation mark on the dash cluster is annoying to me So I am totally determined to get rid of it in a proper way, I mean by figuring the culprit and getting that gremlin out of my car.
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  #7  
Old 05-16-2016, 12:53 AM
SpiderBy SpiderBy is offline
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Did not get yet to measuring the DC current for my LPFP.
Interesting though that the other person just replied on another forum, the one who had exactly the same error codes and replaced both HPFP and LPFP.
The quote: "It turned out to be a faulty low pressure pump controller module. The EKP".
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  #8  
Old 05-16-2016, 04:51 AM
God-Follower God-Follower is offline
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It is entirely possible, but from my experiences with working on these cars the LPFP is the more likely problem.

That was why I detailed out the proper diagnostic tree, so you can properly diagnose which is the root issue.

Of course that does not include consequential damages, if the pump is over drawing but just under the circuit fuse rating the question is this; did it damage the EKPS? I have seen E70 35i vehicles do this before.
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  #9  
Old 05-17-2016, 01:01 AM
SpiderBy SpiderBy is offline
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Thank you God-Follower for sharing your experience!
Measured the DC current for LPFP while car was working in idle, I am reading ~13.3 A that I guess is within the spec.
Got under the trunk cover and figured I have EKPM2 module (p/n 16147180427) which can be bought on ebay for about $40 used.
Wondering should I try replacing EKPM2 first?
Or I'd rather not go with the used module and get a new EKPM3 for ~$250?
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  #10  
Old 05-23-2016, 10:11 AM
bigmike1291 bigmike1291 is offline
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Mein Auto:
I have an 05 545i v8 manual 120k and I recently went on a trip and it started sputtering during take off up to about 4th gear. I seen a couple people say it coukd be spark plugs, ignition coils, an fuel pump. I was wondering if was a problem similar to someone else's?
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  #11  
Old 06-04-2016, 03:23 PM
SpiderBy SpiderBy is offline
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Just figured I have not followed up on my thread.
Decided to try replacing EKPM2 first.
Bought used EKPM2 on ebay, found one with the exact same part # and other numbers on the sticker.
Replacement is super easy, just did the coding via NCS Expert as detailed here
I did not need to program a new ZB number.
Cleared all the fault codes and started the car, no more "Fuel pump error" warning.
Read the fault codes, got again:
2AAF Fuel Pump, plausibility
Researched the forums and folks are saying if 2AAF comes alone then there is no need to worry.
I monitored the car for several days, reset 2AAF, but it kept coming back.
The car drives OK, 2AAF is still the only code I am getting.
I guess I would call it success for now...

Many thanks to God-Follower for all the suggestions!
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2016, 04:12 PM
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edes300 edes300 is offline
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As I recall the 2aaf is a generic code for fuel system problems. I would keep monitoring the issue but still consider the fuel pressure sensor. It's a common failure point on the n54.
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  #13  
Old 06-04-2016, 10:51 PM
God-Follower God-Follower is offline
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Location: Pacific Northwest
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpiderBy View Post
Just figured I have not followed up on my thread.
Decided to try replacing EKPM2 first.
Bought used EKPM2 on ebay, found one with the exact same part # and other numbers on the sticker.
Replacement is super easy, just did the coding via NCS Expert as detailed here
I did not need to program a new ZB number.
Cleared all the fault codes and started the car, no more "Fuel pump error" warning.
Read the fault codes, got again:
2AAF Fuel Pump, plausibility
Researched the forums and folks are saying if 2AAF comes alone then there is no need to worry.
I monitored the car for several days, reset 2AAF, but it kept coming back.
The car drives OK, 2AAF is still the only code I am getting.
I guess I would call it success for now...

Many thanks to God-Follower for all the suggestions!
Nice work!
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  #14  
Old 06-11-2016, 05:19 AM
lavonya24 lavonya24 is offline
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Location: columbus
 
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Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 528i bmw
528i wants to cut off at redlights

i got my idler pully replace and tuneup but it still doing the same thing shaking and acting.like it want to cut off at redlights...
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