Whack-a-mole with used 335d's

@ufcrules1 very true in you assumption, I could not see myself going thru hell, even though eventually I would of bought the FSds like I did with the Mini

Still haven't picked a car - some interesting options, some complications. All this while hustling to get a house on the market, so sometimes the car pursuit does have to take a back seat.

Still very much planning to go the 335d route - spending way too much time on Autotrader and searching, in general!

Is there a VIN decoder available to the public? Found another car not too far away, but given that it's not at a BMW dealership, sometimes the description can be a bit difficult to interpret. If one isn't publicly available, if anyone has access, could you decode this for me?

WBAPN7C5XBA780843

Thanks!

Dang, that car looks super clean.

Looks nice but no cold weather package. (I didn't realize that they changed the paddle shifters between '10 and '11. I like the change. ) No nav either. Personally, I'm not a fan of that gray interior but I like the space gray.

Originally Posted by torifile

Looks nice but no cold weather package. (I didn't realize that they changed the paddle shifters between '10 and '11. I like the change. ) No nav either. Personally, I'm not a fan of that gray interior but I like the space gray.

No cold weather, but it does have heated front seats. The lack of Nav is unfortunate, but that's sort of been the story of my searching so far. Find a car that is about 90% of what I like. Is that good enough? Many say "don't settle", but how long do you stick to your guns?

Originally Posted by Maybe335d

No cold weather, but it does have heated front seats. The lack of Nav is unfortunate, but that's sort of been the story of my searching so far. Find a car that is about 90% of what I like. Is that good enough? Many say "don't settle", but how long do you stick to your guns?

Only you know what is so important to you that you will be miserable if you "settle" for less. Figure that part out, stick to your guns on it and if you never find exactly what you want then by that time perhaps better new cars will be out to pick from.

Found a nicely equipped 2011 Titanium Sport, Navigation, Active Cruise, CWP, black interior, CPO. Not too high, mileage-wise. All the equipment I'm interested in, all very nice, but about $4,000 - $5,000 over what I'd like to pay!

Maybe just need to make an offer. All they can do is turn it down.

Originally Posted by Maybe335d

Found a nicely equipped 2011 Titanium Sport, Navigation, Active Cruise, CWP, black interior, CPO. Not too high, mileage-wise. All the equipment I'm interested in, all very nice, but about $4,000 - $5,000 over what I'd like to pay!

Maybe just need to make an offer. All they can do is turn it down.

They will turn it down. Most of these dealerships aren't negotiating much at all.... they all use the same line... "Well we wouldn't want to lose your business over a couple hundred bucks.. so how about I drop the price $200?"

You can tell them you don't need the CPO and can they take 3k off for that.. but they won't do that either. The most they will take off for the CPO is 1k typically.

Are you in any position to make a quick decision? If not, don't settle, you will regret it if you do.

Absolutely. Make an offer. They have a lot of room to move on used cars. But don't be the first to call back or follow up. That will tip your hand. Don't settle. I was surprised when my car fell in my lap. It was exactly what I wanted with the exception that the color was my second choice. The extended service plan more than made up for it. Patience will be rewarded.

Have engaged with a sales person at the dealership - read positive comments on him on some reviews of the dealership.

He is away on vacation, but we at least have begun communicating. This dealership does have a Mini franchise, too, so that could make the trade more appealing.

Curious as to what folks think a loaded 2011 CPO with about 30,000 miles should be realistically priced at? Sport, CWP, Premium, Nav, dynamic cruise, Harmon Kardon, etc.

Thanks for all the advice.

Originally Posted by torifile

Absolutely. Make an offer. They have a lot of room to move on used cars. But don't be the first to call back or follow up. That will tip your hand. Don't settle. I was surprised when my car fell in my lap. It was exactly what I wanted with the exception that the color was my second choice. The extended service plan more than made up for it. Patience will be rewarded.

I agree.
This all depends on a couple of factors:
What they actually paid for the car, how badly the dealer wants to sell the car i.e. , what they need to do to make his or her sales goal for the month, their perception that the car will be difficult to sell, or their cost of money or how long they've had the car in their lot.... or whatever;
How hard you are willing to negotiate;
Whether you're in the dealership or attempting this over the phone (I think much harder to do over the phone for a used car).

I think this is a particularly good time to buy - during the Memorial Day weekend as a lot of dealerships are running sales. During these sales, volume of sales count as much if not more than their mark ups.

When you go in, You, of course, have to be armed with what the databases (KBB, Edmunds, Black Book etc.) are indicating the value of the car is with the options. Have print outs available to use (of course only if it helps your cause).

Assuming you're in the dealership, the "art" of this is to indicate that you're willing to buy that car today and write a check. That is important to keep their attention. On a couple of occasions, I've even asked half jokingly how badly they want to sell the car. I find that It's important to keep levity in the conversations.

Then you have two choices: make an offer of what you're willing to pay - or ask them to come back with their absolute lowest price. Hear their offer or counteroffer , and if it doesn't meet your price, WALK OUT THE DOOR!!! I have had, on several occasions, the sales mgr stop me as I was driving out to make what was really their final & best offer. If they don't come after you then you know they have already made their final & best.

Be patient with this process, as I've found the longer it takes the better. It can take a few hours. Don't rush it. If they are serious about negotiating, it will take discussions between the salesman,sales mgr and possibly even the owner of the dealership.

Most of all enjoy the process! I find it entertaining, and informative.

BTW I would not give up on the CPO warranty and, if applicable, extended service. That should be part of the deal from the BEGINNING of the conversations. The equivalent Extended Warranties from 3rd parties or BMW are very expensive. Don't let them add it on after the negotiations as you will then be paying full markup retail.

Good Luck!

I've negotiated plenty on used cars in the past and done very well. However, I ran into a brick wall on the BMW 335D. If the car is 4-5k more than you want to pay, don't expect them to come anywhere near that. The most you would get off from almost any dealership is 1k. Some here will think I'm crazy, and that is fine... but I looked for about 2 months before I found my car and tried negotiating with SEVERAL dealerships like crazy and got no where. I was calling dealerships all over the US and talking to sales managers every time (Normal sales reps are worthless).

But by all means, try to negotiate the price down.. let us all know how it goes too.

Originally Posted by ufcrules1

I've negotiated plenty on used cars in the past and done very well. However, I ran into a brick wall on the BMW 335D. If the car is 4-5k more than you want to pay, don't expect them to come anywhere near that. The most you would get off from almost any dealership is 1k. Some here will think I'm crazy, and that is fine... but I looked for about 2 months before I found my car and tried negotiating with SEVERAL dealerships like crazy and got no where. I was calling dealerships all over the US and talking to sales managers every time (Normal sales reps are worthless).

I pretty much found the same thing when I bought my D. After some pretty strenuous negotiations, All I could get off of list was $1500. That, as they say, on a $50k car is BUBKAS! Others on this forum were reporting better pricing. But I needed the car and my perception was that the Eco Credit was coming to an end - so I agreed. At the time there were only 2 D's in the Southeast US with Nav. One of them was at a nearby dealer. And this dealer was willing to trade for it. As a result, I *believed* that they didn't have that much room to negotiate. It was pretty frustrating that the techniques that I referenced in my earlier post were not working. Not having leverage makes negotiation difficult.

However when they produced the paperwork for me to sign, the sales form had a preprinted $600 (or $800 - i can't recall) dealer fee. I told the salesman - that fee was killing the deal and that I wasn't going to pay it. He said EVERYBODY pays that fee. After going back and forth with the salesman offering nothing - on principal I walked out fully expecting that the deal was dead.
As I was pulling out of the dealership, the salesman chased after me and said that the Sales Mgr reduced the cost of the car by the amount of that fee. So I got the car. In that scenario - I'm not sure I got their final & best - but I think it was close. So the point here is that first the dealer needs to perceive that your going to buy the car and second that you need to be able to walk out the door to get their best price.

So good luck to the OP. It sounds like this car comes close to what you're looking for. However walk into that dealership knowing that there are other cars out there that might, in the end, be better deals.

Most people I know get the best deals when they are pissed off and physically at the dealership.

Here's the thing - that car you found is like mine in terms of colors and has a couple features mine doesn't - nav and adaptive cruise and it's a year newer. The only drawback I can tell is that it has quite a few miles for a 1 year old car. I think that I could expect to get about $34k for my car. Add in the extra features of yours and that it's at a dealer, you're looking at about $40k at least.

Originally Posted by Snipe656

Most people I know get the best deals when they are pissed off and physically at the dealership.

I would agree with this.. the problem in looking for a 335d is that there may not be many around you (Maybe 2 or 3 if you are lucky) and if they don't have the options etc. you have to start looking in other states.

I got enough info from sales managers over the phone to know that they will not negotiate much on the car and in the majority of cases.. they just can't. Most put the most aggressive pricing they can on the car to compete in the online arena. Also, almost every BMW dealership charges a $400 to $600 "processing fee" and they are usually mandatory.

It's pretty simple to feel out the market on these. Just do a search in the whole US on Autotrader and search the pricing low to high.

Originally Posted by Snipe656

Most people I know get the best deals when they are pissed off and physically at the dealership.

Most people I know get the best deals when they buy from a fest sponsor. Jusy saying....

Originally Posted by ufcrules1

I would agree with this.. the problem in looking for a 335d is that there may not be many around you (Maybe 2 or 3 if you are lucky) and if they don't have the options etc. you have to start looking in other states.

I got enough info from sales managers over the phone to know that they will not negotiate much on the car and in the majority of cases.. they just can't. Most put the most aggressive pricing they can on the car to compete in the online arena. Also, almost every BMW dealership charges a $400 to $600 "processing fee" and they are usually mandatory.

It's pretty simple to feel out the market on these. Just do a search in the whole US on Autotrader and search the pricing low to high.

I find this to be quite interesting. As a new car in 2011 I could get a smoking deal on a new 335d. As a CPO car they are lately pulling down very good money on trade. Granted mine is a fully loaded and low mileage model with every option, but its interesting to see the market on 335d's swing so dramatically. Based on what I am seeing with mine (shopping for an SUV even though I love it) is that I can get what I owe on it (and I put next to nothing down). A year ago the negative equity was quite large....

Originally Posted by Alpine300ZHP

Most people I know get the best deals when they buy from a fest sponsor. Jusy saying....

Pardon my ignorance - hadn't realized that there were dealerships that were sponsors! I will give them a look.

Thanks for the tip.

Originally Posted by torifile

Looks nice but no cold weather package. (I didn't realize that they changed the paddle shifters between '10 and '11. I like the change. ) No nav either. Personally, I'm not a fan of that gray interior but I like the space gray.

What was the change? I can't seem to find any conclusive pics online?

Originally Posted by Maybe335d

Still haven't picked a car - some interesting options, some complications. All this while hustling to get a house on the market, so sometimes the car pursuit does have to take a back seat.

Still very much planning to go the 335d route - spending way too much time on Autotrader and searching, in general!

Is there a VIN decoder available to the public? Found another car not too far away, but given that it's not at a BMW dealership, sometimes the description can be a bit difficult to interpret. If one isn't publicly available, if anyone has access, could you decode this for me?

WBAPN7C5XBA780843

Thanks!

http://www.rubmw.ru/vincode/eng/

Vehicle information
Type
Value
VIN WBAPN7C5XBA780843
Type code PN73
Type 335D (USA)
E series E90 (MUE)
Series 3
Type LIM
Steering LL
Doors 4
Engine M57Y
Displacement 3.00
Power 210
Drive HECK
Transmission AUT
Colour SPACEGRAU METALLIC (A52)
Upholstery LEDER DAKOTA/GRAU 60 (LCAD)
Prod.date 2010-05-17
Options
Code
Description (interface)
Description (EPC)
S1CAA SELEKTION COP RELEVANTER FAHRZEUGE Dummy-SALAPA
S205A AUTOMATIC GETRIEBE Automatic transmission
S2B4A LM RAEDER DOPPELSPEICHE 195 BMW LA wheel/double spoke 195
S2VBA REIFEN DRUCK CONTROL Tyre pressure control (TPC)
S2XAA SPORT-LEDERLENK. MIT SCHALTWIPPEN Sport leather st. wheel w/ shift paddles
S319A INTEGRIERTE UNIVERSAL-FERNBEDIENUNG Integrated universal remote control
S403A GLASDACH, ELEKTRISCH Glass roof, electrical
S430A INNEN-/AUSSENSPIEGEL AUT.ABBLENDEND Interior/outside mirror with auto dip
S431A INNENSPIEGEL,AUTOMATISCH ABBLENDEND Interior mirror with automatic-dip
S459A SITZVERSTELLUNG, ELEKTR.MIT MEMORY Seat adjustment, electric, with memory
S481A SPORTSITZE FUER FAHRER/BEIFAHRER Sports seat
S488A LORDOSENSTUETZE FAHRER/BEIFAHRER Lumbar support, driver and passenger
S494A SITZHEIZUNG FUER FAHRER/BEIFAHRER Seat heating driver/passenger
S4ABA EDELHOLZAUSFUEHRUNG NUSSBAUM WURZEL Fine wood trim burr walnut
S4NAA INNENSPIEGEL MIT DIGITALEM KOMPASS Interior mirror with digital compass
Code
Description (interface)
Description (EPC)
S521A REGENSENSOR Rain sensor
S522A XENON-LICHT Xenon Light
S524A ADAPTIVES KURVENLICHT Adaptive Headlights
S534A KLIMAAUTOMATIK Automatic air conditioning
S544A GESCHWINDIGKEITSREGEL. MIT BREMSF. Cruise control with brake function
S563A LICHTPAKET Light package
S570A STAERKERE STROMVERSORGUNG Reinforced power supply
S639A KOMPLETTVORB. HANDY USA/CDN Preparation f mobile phone cpl. USA/CDN
S655A SATELLITENTUNER Satellite tuner
S697A AREA-CODE 1 Area-Code 1 for DVD
S6FLA USB-AUDIO-SCHNITTSTELLE USB/audio interface
S704A M SPORTFAHRWERK M Sports suspension
S760A INDIVIDUAL HOCHGLANZ SHADOW LINE High gloss shadow line
S840A HOCHGESCHWINDIGKEITSABSTIMMUNG High speed synchronisation
S8S4A DECODIERUNG VARIABLE LICHTVERTEILUN Decoding, variable light distribution
Code
Description (interface)
Description (EPC)
S8SCA LAENDERSPEZ. TELESERVICEFREISCH. Telematics access request,country-spec.
S8SPA COP STEUERUNG Control unit COP
S925A VERSANDSCHUTZPAKET Dispatch protection pack
Standard equipment
Code
Description (interface)
Description (EPC)
S249A MULITFUNKTION FUER LENKRAD Multifunction f steering wheel
S497A MITTELARMLEHNE IM FOND Centre armrest, rear
S520A NEBELSCHEINWERFER Fog lights
S5DSA KOFFERRAUMNOTENTRIEGELUNG Emergency release, luggage compartment
S645A RADIO-STEUERUNG US BMW US Radio
S663A RADIO BMW PROFESSIONAL Radio BMW Professional
S823A HEISSLAND-AUSFUEHRUNG Hot-climate version
S845A AKUSTISCHE GURTWARNUNG Acoustic fasten seat belt reminder
S850A ZUSAETZL. TANKFUELLUNG EXPORT Additional Export tank filling
S853A SPRACHVERSION ENGLISCH Language version, English
S876A FUNKFREQUENZ 315 MHZ Radio frequency 315 MHz
S992A STEUERUNG KENNZEICHENBEFESTIGUNG Control of number-plate attachment

Originally Posted by HIREN

What was the change? I can't seem to find any conclusive pics online?

Here you go.. top one is 2010 and bottom is 2011. Looks like they tried to make the trim match a little more with the steering wheel.

The big difference is the 2011 wheel has dedicated up and downshift levers. The 2010 you could do up and down on the both levers based on the direction you push it.

It bugs me because my car has every single option except the paddle shifters. My guess is the original buyer thought he was getting the paddle shifters when he got the sport package. Once it comes without them, it's too late. I don't think I would have ever used them.. but I like the way they look. Ha

Originally Posted by ufcrules1

It bugs me because my car has every single option except the paddle shifters. My guess is the original buyer thought he was getting the paddle shifters when he got the sport package. Once it comes without them, it's too late. I don't think I would have ever used them.. but I like the way they look. Ha

I don't use mine very often.