
|
Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 100,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!
You are currently viewing the forum as a guest which does not give you access to all the great features at Bimmerfest including the ability to search, interact with existing members and the option to turn off contextual advertising in posts. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! |
|
||||||
|
5 Series DIY
Knowledge Is Power! ~ The place for do-it-yourself threads on a variety of topics. Start a thread describing a particular job (oil change, cooling system overhaul, brakes, shocks and springs, etc.) or search for one you need help with! |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
540 Brake Pad/Rotor replacement suggestions
My garage skills are adequate for oil changes, brake work etc... However, I've never done any larger mods nor do I have friends with those skills.
My front pads and rotors on my 2000 540i6 need to be replaced. The entire system is stock. I'm looking to keep the OEM calipers and brake lines to keep costs reasonable. From what I've read, via Dave Z. and others, Axxis Plus pads keep OEM stoping power while dramatically reducing brake dust. What are rotor options which retain/improve OEM stopping power? Will rotor life match OEM rotor life (~39k miles for me)? Lastly, I never plan on tracking my car so I don't expect to have high brake temperatures nor is it desirable for my street car to "bring the brakes up to operating temperature". |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
I concur with Dave Z on Axxis pad solution. With respect to rotors, I'd buy a quality non-drilled and non-slotted replacement rotor like ATE, Balo, Brembo or Zimmerman. They cost about $40-$80 ea & they'll last same as factory stuff....longer than the silly ones with surface machining to look rad with neon lighting.
Last edited by Lscman; 06-04-2004 at 10:07 AM. |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
If you really want to improve the brake feel, nothing beats stainless lines. About 100 for a set of 4. At higher brake efforts, you will have a linear brake pedal. Makes the feel and modulation very nice.
I aggree with the axxis and stock rotors. You will also want to look at the condition of the rear parking brakes while you are in there. Might also want to adjust them too. When you do the job you will want a 18mm socket and a breaker bar. Especially if they have never been changed. A little anti-seaze between the rotor and wheel bearings will help with the removal next time. Make sure you remove any rust or particles prior to putting the new rotors back on as well. You may need a wire wheel attachment for a drill or something. A 6mm hex driver to take off the rotors, I think a 7mm for the floating caliper too. Don't let the caliper hang on the brake hose.
__________________
Sands (aka Ian) 2000 M Coupe Cosmo Black and no moon roof IE Bushings all around, IE toe and camber kit SS clutch line VPD cooler cap & and a real Setrab cooler Racetech pilot seat, schroth harnesses Obey your Noodly Master! Ramen. |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Forum Navigation | |||||||
|
Today's Posts Search | ||||||
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|