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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 6 Series > E63 / E64 6 Series (2003 - 2013)

E63 / E64 6 Series (2003 - 2013)
The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 05-22-2012, 02:49 PM
blaze_500 blaze_500 is offline
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2007 650i wont start

I was driving today no problem.
The car wont go into ignition phase after inserting key.
lights/stereo idrive all work ok.
totally bizarre!

can someone please help me???
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  #2  
Old 05-23-2012, 04:00 AM
blaze_500 blaze_500 is offline
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some more infomation

When i sat in the car, i didn't get the normal 'click' sound from the dashboard when the car detects the key is close by. Then when i insert the key in, there is no noise/clicking to suggest its in the 'ignition' state.

Other symptoms when i first noticed this problem:
The CD changer was clunking away as if it was sifting through each CD.
The Time has been reset to --:--. However the date is fine.

Any help on this would be really appreciated.
Many thanks guys!
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  #3  
Old 05-23-2012, 04:58 AM
twentytoe twentytoe is offline
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My guess would be to check the battery and confirm that you have the correct voltage for sometimes the symptoms that you are describing are due to low battery voltage, hope this helps.
Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 05-23-2012, 09:23 AM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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It sounds like the battery is very low. Try charging it, then have it tested. When the battery gets very low, it starts shutting down power to the electrical systems.


Good Luck!
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2012, 11:09 AM
blaze_500 blaze_500 is offline
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Thanks guys.. its on charge now. Let's see if that sorts it out.
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2012, 12:26 AM
blaze_500 blaze_500 is offline
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So... i noticed a message on the iDrive - "increased battery discharge".
Ive charged the battery on a slow charge for 2 days. The charger indicates the battery is charged, i try to start the car. exactly the same issue no difference at all.

I'm thinking a few options now.
Perhaps my battery is screwed and needs replacing.
Battery is fine but a sensor somewhere is faulty telling the car it has charge issues
Something is draining the battery.

The fact this happened within a few hour of the car being absolutely fine still baffles me.

Any ideas guys?

Much appreciated.
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  #7  
Old 05-26-2012, 12:30 AM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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Still sounds like the battery to me. Once the battery is sulphated it will no longer hold a charge.

I would do a load test on the battery as your next step. Most auto parts stores will do this for free.
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  #8  
Old 05-26-2012, 12:59 AM
blaze_500 blaze_500 is offline
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Ok thanks.. I'll see if anyone local can perform this test at my house since the car will not start. Do you know what a suitable voltage should be?
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  #9  
Old 05-26-2012, 05:16 AM
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TxTaz TxTaz is offline
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Actually, a battery test will see how well it holds at 12 volts under a current load.
The voltage drop under load is a indication of internal existence which changes over time due to sulfation.
You can try to start the car with a 100 amp charger if you know someone with one. This will prove it's the battery.
Other ideas...(just guessing)
Ignition relay
Starter solenoid
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  #10  
Old 05-26-2012, 09:35 AM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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If you don't have a heavy duty 100amp charger you can use the old fashioned jumper cable method. If the car starts with jumper cables it's likely the battery. Keep the cars connected with the jumper cables for 5 to 10 min before trying to start the car.

You can pull the battery and bring it in for testing if you have access to another car. Not sure what you call them in the UK, but an auto service like AAA will send a tow tuck with a battery load tester. These guys can also jump start the car for you.
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  #11  
Old 05-28-2012, 03:50 PM
blaze_500 blaze_500 is offline
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so i had my breakdown guy come over today ( known as the AA in the UK!). to check the car in my drive way. When he arrived I couldn't evn unlock the car since the battery had gone completely flat. He connected his booster to the battery and I tried to start it. Nothing happened apart from a bunch of new faults appearing on the iDrive. Mainly a "steering lock fault".. and another to do with the windows. Now im not sure if these relate to the fact the battery had gone completely flat since I had never seen these faults before.
After a failed attempt to start it he took a look t the battery. It showed 6.6v.. and tested at 25%. Looks likely the battery may need replacing.
So he was unable to tow it to a garage since the steering was locked and the angle of the car mean that it needed to be steered onto the truck.
So im left with a car that still wont start.. but now has a worrying steering lock fault.

Does anyone know if this relates to the dead battery. ?
Is there a way for me to 'reset' that steering fault?
I'm hoping it just needs a battery change and the horrible faults will disappear!!
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  #12  
Old 05-28-2012, 06:52 PM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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I am almost certain all faults you are experiencing are related to the battery. Just buy a new one and install it in your driveway, then take the car in to get it checked out and have the battery registered.

When more than one fault shows up at the same time it's almost always a low battery. Do you know how old the battery is? If 5+ years it is very likely at the end of it's life. If it's newer then you might have an alternator problem or a short somewhere that is draining the battery.

The steering fault will disappear after you fully crank the steering left and right a few times.
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  #13  
Old 05-28-2012, 06:55 PM
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greco2000 greco2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yorgi View Post
I am almost certain all faults you are experiencing are related to the battery. Just buy a new one and install it in your driveway, then take the car in to get it checked out and have the battery registered.

When more than one fault shows up at the same time it's almost always a low battery. Do you know how old the battery is? If 5+ years it is very likely at the end of it's life. If it's newer then you might have an alternator problem or a short somewhere that is draining the battery.

The steering fault will disappear after you fully crank the steering left and right a few times.
+1. Same thing happened to my 7. A dead battery lights up your dash like a xmas tree with all the faults! Get ready to fork out $400+ for a new one!
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  #14  
Old 05-29-2012, 02:59 AM
blaze_500 blaze_500 is offline
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Thanks Yorgi. I really hope its just the battery. Are any aftermarket batteries recommended? (Bosch etc?)
Are we talking $400+ for just the battery? insane.
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  #15  
Old 05-29-2012, 08:13 AM
JPEG23 JPEG23 is offline
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Many of us on the forum have used aftermarket batteries, which cost around $200, without any issues.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Bimmer App
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  #16  
Old 05-31-2012, 03:33 PM
blaze_500 blaze_500 is offline
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Ok guys.. so the new battery arrived today.. i installed it, and started the car.(yay!).. however the 'steering lock fault' was still appearing. But the 'increased battery discharge' message had gone.
I had it running for about 10 minutes.
Turned it off.. started it again.. no problem.
Turn it off and on a couple of more times until I encountered the same issues as before. It would not start.
- the dashboard did not make the 'click' sound to register the keys signal when I sit in the car
- when I put the key in, it does not make the 'clunk' sounds and go into ignition mode.
- The brake pedal is stiff and pressing the Start Engine button does nothing.

The whole time the Steering Lock Fault is on the display.

Does the ECU need resetting or something? Remember, I only came across the Steering Lock Fault after the battery had gone completely flat, so I'd be surprised if I have an genuine steering problem.. but who knows!!

What could possibly be going wrong with it?

Thanks for all the help so far guys. Massively appreciated.
Paul
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  #17  
Old 05-31-2012, 06:47 PM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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I would guess you just ran the battery down. You cannot repeatedly start the car without charging the battery or it will run down very quickly. Starting the car is a MASSIVE drain on the battery.

Just ignore the steering lock fault. It is a well known that you will see this error when you install a new battery. It goes away after cranking the steering fully left and right a few times which re-calibrates the steering.

I would charge the battery again overnight then go for a drive. After the drive park the car and let it sit overnight and see if it starts the next day. If yes then you should be good to go. If no then you probably have a short somewhere. Don't repeatedly stop/start the car to see if it's OK. You need to take 30 minute trips between engine starts to recharge the drain on the system from the start.
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'02 Highlander - kid hauler
'01 330Ci - winter beater


Last edited by Yorgi; 05-31-2012 at 06:54 PM.
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  #18  
Old 06-01-2012, 12:28 AM
blaze_500 blaze_500 is offline
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Thanks mate.. I'll stick it on charge today... and hope its just my stupidity thats the issue.
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  #19  
Old 06-04-2012, 04:45 AM
houbmw-cm houbmw-cm is offline
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I was getting ready to post something along lines to the same problem you may or may not have, so I'll post here. I've had a problem where my car simply won't start. If I would simply walk away from the car, out of key range, and come back most of the time she would start right up. I noticed it seemed more prevelant if I used the steering wheel to pull my self up out of the car. I stopped that, and she seemed happy. Occasinally now though she still just won't start. When I recently changed my battery and was registering it, I did a quick delete to clear all the messages. The picture is what remained. There are still two errors. One the "SZL Steering column switch centre 2", and the second "CAN system analysis". I believ the starting issue is due to the SZL error message. Has anyone taken apart the steering column and looked at what kind of swicthes are in the coulmn? i apologize for the fuzzy picture. Mosquitos were startinfg to eat me alive, while I was taking it.
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  #20  
Old 06-04-2012, 04:59 AM
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645/333 645/333 is offline
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With all these battery issues I think it would be worth upgrading to a 110ah battery. Correct me if I am wrong but don't some 6 series have two batteries, I remember reading something to this effect!!!

Minor point ! you can de-sulphicate (spelling??) with a Cteck battery tender, not all models do it , but it does work if your battery has this problem. Most of the BMW batteries have a condition monitor green, amber and black window, clearly black means dud! or recharge!!!
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  #21  
Old 06-08-2012, 01:56 AM
bmwly326 bmwly326 is offline
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hello my friend

my firend ***305; have a proplem my car wont start same u proplem can u give to me u mail adress ***305; want talk to you tank u

my face book mehmet duzkar
my mail mehmetduzkar@gmail.com please write to me
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  #22  
Old 06-08-2012, 05:14 AM
blaze_500 blaze_500 is offline
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So... after £110 on a new battery.. and £200 for a BMW specialist to replace the IBS sensor and battery cable, all faults are gone.. car starts fine... runs fine... and it looks like that was the problem the whole time (apart from a shot battery). Thanks everyone for your help!. Legends.
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  #23  
Old 06-08-2012, 08:37 AM
bmwly326 bmwly326 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaze_500 View Post
So... after £110 on a new battery.. and £200 for a BMW specialist to replace the IBS sensor and battery cable, all faults are gone.. car starts fine... runs fine... and it looks like that was the problem the whole time (apart from a shot battery). Thanks everyone for your help!. Legends.

I put a new battert and I give to my wife car electric and no start no crank no power aircondition and my steering wheel lock not open please help
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  #24  
Old 06-09-2012, 11:33 AM
sleeping fox sleeping fox is offline
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i concur ,
,after similar issue myself my techie said start with new battery , then the ICS or IBS & finally alternator , for me it was new battery (bosch S5) & alternator refurb & £270 later car runs sweet
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  #25  
Old 06-09-2012, 03:16 PM
rebel.ranter rebel.ranter is offline
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Just to note when you replace a battery in a modern BMW you need to tell the car it has a new battery. Otherwise the charging cycle will be all wrong. You can use dealer software or something like Autologic.

Also, I was plugged in to an e65 7 Series a few weeks ago doing a re-calibration of the electronic hand brake & I probably not too much time at it & drained the battery too much. Lots of random errors appeared but they were just due to the battery draining. We started the car & let it run for a while, some of the errors remained but once they were cleared they never came back.
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