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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-01-2012, 05:03 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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How to clean your Secondary Air Valve to prevent the pump from failing.

I've cleaned my sec air valve a few times in the past so it doesn't really look that bad in the before pic.
When enough carbon builds up the valve will not close on it's seat allowing exhaust and water (a combustion byproduct) to enter the secondary air pump, which over time will cause the pump to fail and drain your wallet.
This is a few hour job on a V8 if you are going to remove the air tube between the heads.
On an I6 it should be a much quicker job.















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  #2  
Old 06-01-2012, 07:56 AM
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tmvE39/E53/Z32 tmvE39/E53/Z32 is offline
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Thanks for posting Jim. My weekend project. I seems to always find a little project to do on the weekend.
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  #3  
Old 06-01-2012, 08:00 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Pretty slick, Jim.
I just swapped the old check valve with a new one, and changed the salmon relay as well. I still have the old relay, but the old check valve has seen the garbage bin.
I also had that carbon crud on it.
Not sure how the v8 is, but on the i6 there is a layered metal gasket that has to be replaced once you pull out the check valve. The gasket is not reusable, because once used, it molds on both mating surfaces. The new gasket seal is much thicker compared to a used one. Also, the used one on my car came off in pieces. Some parts were "glued" to one side (check valve), and some on the other side. Some other pieces just flaked off.
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  #4  
Old 06-01-2012, 09:29 AM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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I simply replaced mine for $99. Much easier!

Use www.furiousmethod.com to find best prices @ parts..

In fact, here it is:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...egoryID=174653

Or, email directly:
Jason Reighard | Internet Parts Manager | getBMWparts.com
BMW of Silver Spring 3211 Automobile Blvd. Silver Spring, MD 20904
Email getHelp@getBMWparts.com | AIM Jason at Tischer
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  #5  
Old 06-01-2012, 10:50 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
Not sure how the v8 is, but on the i6 there is a layered metal gasket that has to be replaced once you pull out the check valve. The gasket is not reusable, because once used, it molds on both mating surfaces. The new gasket seal is much thicker compared to a used one. Also, the used one on my car came off in pieces. Some parts were "glued" to one side (check valve), and some on the other side. Some other pieces just flaked off.
The gasket is the same on the V8, it's a Grafoil gasket. Once you tighten the valve down it compresses the gasket.
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  #6  
Old 06-01-2012, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
I simply replaced mine for $99. Much easier!
+1. I appreciate Jim's tip, and I believe cleaning the valve is better that doing nothing, but it is also a good idea to consider replacement at some point. Clogging from crud is not the only failure mode....I had the valve fail on my car while under warranty at around 35k miles. Dealer replaced the valve, hoses and air pump.

At around 150k miles I went ahead and preventively replaced the valve and gasket, less than $90 online a year ago..
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Last edited by 540 M-Sport; 06-01-2012 at 11:02 AM.
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  #7  
Old 06-01-2012, 11:34 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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I didn't know this valve was amenable to cleaning for maintenance. I'll buy a spare gasket and give it a shot. Thanks for the tip, Jim.
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  #8  
Old 06-01-2012, 11:50 AM
hotstepper hotstepper is offline
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Great tip thanks I'll check/clean mine over the weekend
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  #9  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:48 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540 M-Sport View Post
+1. I appreciate Jim's tip, and I believe cleaning the valve is better that doing nothing, but it is also a good idea to consider replacement at some point. Clogging from crud is not the only failure mode....I had the valve fail on my car while under warranty at around 35k miles. Dealer replaced the valve, hoses and air pump.

At around 150k miles I went ahead and preventively replaced the valve and gasket, less than $90 online a year ago..
Anything can fail prematurely, at least your's was under warranty. Mine is original, 12 years old and 137K on it.
Idler pulley bearings are next on the list of things to be done.
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  #10  
Old 06-01-2012, 02:09 PM
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Topaz540i Topaz540i is offline
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Dinan valve covers? Dyno results? Jk

If you plan to replace the idlers i can give you some tips on how to order the parts correctly.
Basically the only pulley available by itself is the one on the lower right corner.
The two on a/c side as well as the two in middle are NOT the same size as the lower right corner pulley. Dont ask why i know this. Ordering a bunch of the same pulley wont work. The two in the middle as well as the two on the a/c can only be acquired by buying the entire tensioning unit.

Although according to realoem the prevanos m62 used 70mm pulleys which just happen to be the size on the tensioning units of the m62tu. But then again its prob best to get the whole unit so you have a new tensioner too.
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  #11  
Old 06-01-2012, 03:38 PM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
Anything can fail prematurely, at least your's was under warranty. Mine is original, 12 years old and 137K on it.
Idler pulley bearings are next on the list of things to be done.
I understand, my point was after 120 or 130k+ miles, one might just want to consider replacing with new.

I had my pullies, tensioners and belts done at 123k. Part of replacing just about the entire cooling system...rad, exp tank, cap, thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, all hoses, etc...long list of stuff.

+1 on the pullies, they are sold as assemblies, not individually.
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Last edited by 540 M-Sport; 06-01-2012 at 03:41 PM.
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  #12  
Old 06-01-2012, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
I simply replaced mine for $99. Much easier!

Use www.furiousmethod.com to find best prices @ parts..
Awesome link, thank you for sharing it!

What a time saver this will be.
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  #13  
Old 06-01-2012, 04:49 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topaz540i View Post
Dinan valve covers? Dyno results? Jk

If you plan to replace the idlers i can give you some tips on how to order the parts correctly.
Basically the only pulley available by itself is the one on the lower right corner.
The two on a/c side as well as the two in middle are NOT the same size as the lower right corner pulley. Dont ask why i know this. Ordering a bunch of the same pulley wont work. The two in the middle as well as the two on the a/c can only be acquired by buying the entire tensioning unit.

Although according to realoem the prevanos m62 used 70mm pulleys which just happen to be the size on the tensioning units of the m62tu. But then again its prob best to get the whole unit so you have a new tensioner too.
Steve gave me the D stickers, I do have his engine and CAI downloads.
475 HP 540lb-ft.
I'm just taking the idlers out to clean the old grease out and repack the bearings.
I do it about every 3 years after one of the bearings went dry, overheated, and melted the plastic idler.
AAA flatbedded me back home.

Edit:
I'm pretty sure I remember seeing individual idlers availabe from Dayco. If I find the link I'll post it.

540 M-Sport, I did buy new idlers about 5 years ago so I just regrease and swap them.
I did the complete cooling system about 60K ago, Zionsville radiator and electric fan.
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Last edited by JimLev; 06-01-2012 at 05:32 PM. Reason: Added more info.
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  #14  
Old 06-01-2012, 06:32 PM
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Regreasing is definitely helpful, and your intervals insures the health of the bearings, but again, the heat cycles of the plastic is also a consideration, and at some point you have to seriously consider replacement. Problem is the age issue is a guess at best...5 years? 10 years? Who knows?

540 lb/ft is AWESOME!
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  #15  
Old 06-01-2012, 07:19 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Under hood heat is definitely a problem. So far I've been lucky, I always open the hood when I pull the car into the garage. None of my plastic has failed yet...knocking on wood.
The radiator was replaced as a preventative measure.
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2016, 01:01 AM
dave321 dave321 is offline
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Hi, could you repost the pictures as I don't seem to be able to open them. The pump on my e64 has just started to make a noise so want to clean the system first before replacing the pump itself, thanks
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  #17  
Old 04-03-2016, 12:13 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Dave,
Just saw your request, only because sixpot-simon sent me a PM asking the same thing.
Here's a link that will bring you to the 6 pics. Click on the pic to expand it, then on the side arrows to go forward or backwards.
You can also use turpentine to dissolve the carbon.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...t=folder%2cJPG
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Last edited by JimLev; 04-03-2016 at 12:15 PM.
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  #18  
Old 04-03-2016, 03:29 PM
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computiNATEor computiNATEor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
Dave,
Just saw your request, only because sixpot-simon sent me a PM asking the same thing.
Here's a link that will bring you to the 6 pics. Click on the pic to expand it, then on the side arrows to go forward or backwards.
You can also use turpentine to dissolve the carbon.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...t=folder%2cJPG
It would be especially helpful to anyone in the future to simply use the advanced editor to attach them to the post. Use the "Manage Attachments" button.
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  #19  
Old 04-03-2016, 03:58 PM
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sixpot_simon sixpot_simon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
Here's a link that will bring you to the 6 pics.
Hi Jim,
Many thanks for your efforts getting the photos back up. I look forward using them soon to inspect/clean my sec air valve

Cheers,
Simon
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