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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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Old 05-01-2017, 12:56 PM
Emixam23 Emixam23 is offline
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BMW e39 1997 overheating problems

Hi,

I have a BMW e39 1997 which has always run super fine. However, one day the engine overheated and since, so many problems....

So i saw that the coolant tank cracked, I then changed it and saw that the water pump was broken, so I changed it too. The car was smoking white, so much... So I put 2 little measure of powder and, after 1-2 hours (spread over 6 using time) over 2-3 days, the car doesn't blow white smoke anymore.

However, I miss some water in the tank but also, the car still overheating after some miles. I mean by that, it goes to the middle and after 5-10 mins, it goes to the red, so I stop.

What can be the cause? Some people told me to bleed the system because it may have some gas and stuff that got inside when the head gasket had some holes (because of overheating i guess)? Also, the inside cabin doesn't blow air, why?

Thank you in advance !
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  #2  
Old 05-01-2017, 03:48 PM
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GrannyApple GrannyApple is offline
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First I recommened you go here and here.
There is boatloads of info on your car available and its best you learn a thing or two.

First of all, NEVER OVERHEAT YOUR ENGINE. You have an aluminum head and block. Overheating for too long will warp you head. If it nears red, blast the heat on max and pull over and shut the engine off.

What powder did you use? You shouldnt be using any miracle stop leak products, in the end they only cause more harm. Simply address and fix leaks.

To bleed the system:
-Raise the front of the car up a tad (driveway, ramps, park on a hill)
-Mark the bleed screw with a silver sharpie or white nail polish to refrence its closed position
-Run the car and get it up to temp, crack the bleed screw 1/4-1/2 a turn
-Wait momentairly as coolant bubbles out and you get a steady stream of coolant out of the screw
-Once coolant stops bubbling/splurging out and flows uninterrupted close the bleed screw by matching up the marks you made. Try not to overtighten
-Repeat a few times until you consistently get a steady flow of coolant from the bleed screw.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=558386



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Last edited by GrannyApple; 05-01-2017 at 03:48 PM. Reason: Removed my sigh
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:51 PM
Emixam23 Emixam23 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barracuz View Post
First I recommened you go here and here.
There is boatloads of info on your car available and its best you learn a thing or two.

First of all, NEVER OVERHEAT YOUR ENGINE. You have an aluminum head and block. Overheating for too long will warp you head. If it nears red, blast the heat on max and pull over and shut the engine off.

What powder did you use? You shouldnt be using any miracle stop leak products, in the end they only cause more harm. Simply address and fix leaks.

To bleed the system:
-Raise the front of the car up a tad (driveway, ramps, park on a hill)
-Mark the bleed screw with a silver sharpie or white nail polish to refrence its closed position
-Run the car and get it up to temp, crack the bleed screw 1/4-1/2 a turn
-Wait momentairly as coolant bubbles out and you get a steady stream of coolant out of the screw
-Once coolant stops bubbling/splurging out and flows uninterrupted close the bleed screw by matching up the marks you made. Try not to overtighten
-Repeat a few times until you consistently get a steady flow of coolant from the bleed screw.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=558386
Thank you for the fast answer! However, I have another question, is it better to bleed of flush the system?

Last edited by Emixam23; 05-01-2017 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:52 PM
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get rid of it...

you probably didnt bleed it right..
you might have damaged it. maybe yes maybe no
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:53 PM
Emixam23 Emixam23 is offline
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Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
get rid of it...
How?
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Old 05-01-2017, 04:03 PM
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Mine seemed to drop a bit in coolant level, had to top off every month, bleed the system as best I could, levels are now constant.
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Old 05-01-2017, 04:27 PM
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GrannyApple GrannyApple is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emixam23 View Post
Thank you for the fast answer! However, I have another question, is it better to bleed of flush the system?
Bleeding is not the same as flushing. When you flush the system your using water/solvents to remove any coolant and contaminants in the system. When you bleed you are simply purging any air that might be in the system.

Plus assuming you just replaced the failed water pump and expansion tank you probably lost alot of the old coolant and topped it off with fresh coolant right? You did top it off right?
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Old 05-01-2017, 04:49 PM
Emixam23 Emixam23 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barracuz View Post
Bleeding is not the same as flushing. When you flush the system your using water/solvents to remove any coolant and contaminants in the system. When you bleed you are simply purging any air that might be in the system.

Plus assuming you just replaced the failed water pump and expansion tank you probably lost alot of the old coolant and topped it off with fresh coolant right? You did top it off right?
I put all new coolant but I added some powder (radiator stop leak powder) because it was smoking super white at the back of the car, that's it. Now, there is no hills near by, can I use jack stands?

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Old 05-01-2017, 05:23 PM
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you done need much of a front end rise to effectively bleed the e39. generally, the slope of a driveway is sufficient.
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:08 AM
Emixam23 Emixam23 is offline
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I did it, air bubbles went out, however, my car was smoking a bit white, but no overheating after 15mins of drive. I just have the impression that the car takes time to cold down
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