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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #1  
Old 05-23-2012, 12:18 PM
nutrunner nutrunner is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 e38728isport
alarm not working on my e38

hi all it looks like my alarm is turned off just the lights flashing when locked and i put my arm through thee window how to i turn it back on again ,
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  #2  
Old 05-24-2012, 02:30 PM
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Mein Auto: 1997 740iL / 2006 X5 4.4
It takes 30 seconds for the interior motions sensor to arm after locking the car with the key. So if you locked the car and stuck your arm thru the window right a way...you didn't give it time to set.

You can also check to see if your alarm siren is still working by activating the PANIC feature.

-
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #3  
Old 12-21-2012, 08:27 PM
RJK740iL RJK740iL is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 740iL
alarm / gas cap / key memory options

Have recently acquired a 2001 740iL, and have been learning about it slowly. What I have determined so far is that the Gas Cap Actuator is not working properly. It's not locking the gas cap. That being said, is it possible that as a result of it not working
that the alarm system does not get activated when I close the car automatically via the wireless key (center button). Can you confirm this ?

The DWA flashes about 20 times, 5~10 seconds, then continues with a regular steady flash. BTW, the Panic Button does work.

The other options according to what I've read so far is that possibly that the Interior Movement Detector has been Deactivated, but maybe more importantly, several of these options were never programmed into the key, and as a result are not typically working
as I expected them to work.

I'm going to get the key activated with the options I'd prefer in 2 weeks, and see if that makes a difference in these options working or then determining that there are physical defects to be looked into further.
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  #4  
Old 12-23-2012, 06:12 PM
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Mein Auto: 1997 740iL / 2006 X5 4.4
If your fuel filler door
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 12-23-2012 at 06:23 PM.
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  #5  
Old 12-23-2012, 07:18 PM
RJK740iL RJK740iL is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 740iL
gas cap actuator - motion sensor

checked the fuse in the trunk #58 / 5v, was OK, changed it anyway, no difference, tks
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  #6  
Old 12-24-2012, 06:14 PM
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Mein Auto: 1997 740iL / 2006 X5 4.4
Try pulling the electrical connector to the fuel filler door actuator (see pic below).

The red LED flash sequence you describe indicates that one or more of the monitors is NOT closing...and you state that the fuel filler door isn't locking. That situation will prevent the "keyless" feature of central locking to not operate...thus forcing you to insert the key manually into the door lock cylinder. In the meantime remove the fuel filler door from the mix (unplug it)...then try using the remote to lock the car, the system can't "monitor" what it doesn't see. If it still doesn't lock...then try reinitializing ALL of your remote keys during the same session...follow the instruction to the "T"...and only insert the FIRST key into the ignition...if you have a 2nd key...start programming it 30 seconds after the first on STEP 3:



This is the fuel filler door actuator below...it is unscrewed and turned around so you can see it...when mounted, the black plate that it's mounted to is all you see when you pull back the insulation above the battery...so that means the electrical connector you see on the lower left...will actually be on the lower right when it is mounted:

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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 12-24-2012 at 06:21 PM.
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  #7  
Old 12-24-2012, 06:35 PM
RJK740iL RJK740iL is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 740iL
will be removing the gas cap actuator from my 95 E38

( works ok there) and then install it into my 01 E38. I'm just hoping that it is the actuator and not the cable, or anything else. My real concern is that the alarm is not being activated, as a result of the actuator not working. I've have sorta confirmed, that no mater how hard I push on the door, or leave the window open and stick my hand inside, ...no alarm. Keys will be re-initialized next week via BMW friend who can do it as if it were just being purchased new. Previous owner may not have taken some options I would prefer. Will also try and remove the 5v fuse for central locking in the rear to see if that takes the actuator out of the mix. Can the cable itself be removed from the actuator, that's actually my plan of attack. Hopefully that will resolve both problems. Tks very much for your advice
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  #8  
Old 01-01-2013, 11:50 AM
RJK740iL RJK740iL is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 740iL
Smile gas cap actuator fixed, alarm OK now

removed the actuator from the 95 740i, easier than I thought the process would be, had to cut the emergency "open the gas cap door cable", then proceeded to remove the actuator from the 2001 740iL, and install the '95 version. I had some info from other repairs, that helped me with getting the cable into the hole ( remove rubber/plastic cover that holds the pin inside the gas cap area, by turning it to the right, it popped right out.) It's actually a 3-4" tube. I then inserted a thin wire into the now open hole and managed to get it to meet the actuator cable I then attached a piece of electrical tape to the end of the actuator and the wire. I then gently pulled the actuator cable forward, and was able to fish it through the hole. I reattached the the plastic/rubber cover by turning to the left. It held the actuator in place now, and all was done. I open and closed the car doors and the actuator worked. The red flasher on the dash did not go through the old sequence of flashing for 5/10 seconds but rather, went to a steady flash. I then pushed on the door and the alarm went off. A real loud and happy noise. Want to thank you for your advise, and confirmations of my problems. Only a few more minor projects left till it's all sorta perfect.
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  #9  
Old 01-03-2013, 08:12 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Mein Auto: E23;E30;E38;E32;E34 +
Lube up cables and actuators with WD40. prevents future probs. I swear by the stuff.
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  #10  
Old 01-03-2013, 08:47 PM
RJK740iL RJK740iL is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 740iL
Lube is a good idea - tested old actuator....

I was able to press down on the plastic part and it skwished down as expected, so I reconnected it tot he old 95 740i, and went thru the lock-unlock procedure to see if the actuator moved at all... it didn't. I'm therefore assuming it was not the cabler per se, but rather the electronics part of the actuator that went bad. In any case, WD40 tomm is a good idea.
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