7 Series DIY
Do It Yourself forum dedicated for 7 Series BMW Owners
||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
N62/E65/E66 Valve Stem Seals Replacement, Valve Cover and Timing Chain Case Gasket
After noticing white/bluish smoke coming from the tale pipe and further reading up on the diagnoses is that the Valve Stems Seals had to be replaced. My check engine light was on and read code p0492 (secondary air Fault bank 2). I already replaced the emission control valve a few months ago and the check engine light came back on. Purchased both the AGA Valve Stem Seal tool and AGA Secondary Air Cleaner Kit to complete these tasks. I will do my best to example in detail all necessary steps to complete. TO COMPLETE ALL WHAT IM ABOUT TO SHOW YOU WILL COST TWO ARMS, YOUR FRIST AND LAST BORN AND YOU'RE LEGS.
-VALVE STEM SEALS 8-12K
-SECONDARY AIR SYSTEM CLEANING 6K
-NOT TO MENTION EVERYTHING ELSE BELOW.
I will also replace the Valve Cover Gasket, Timing Cover Gasket, Engine/Cabin Air Filters and a host of O-Rings that is listed in details.
For this E65/E66/N62 DIY job
-Valve Stem Oil Seals: 11340029751 – Qty: 2 (16 in a pack)
-Valve Cover Gaskets (Cyl. 1-4):
-Valve Cover Gaskets (Cyl. 5-8):
-Engine Timing Chain Case Gasket: 11147506424 - Qty: 1
-Engine Timing Chain Case Gasket: 11147506425 - Qty: 1
-Vanos Solenoid O-Ring: 11367513222 - Qty: 4
-Brake Vacuum Pump O-Ring:
-Eccentric Shaft Actuator Seal: 07119903596 - Qty: 2
-Eccentric Shaft Sensor Seal: 11127518420 - Qty: 2
-Valve Cover Grommet: 11127511582 - Qty: 4 (optional)
-Cam Sensor O-Ring: 12141748398 - Qty: 4
-Engine Air Filter: C301531 - Qty: 1
-Cabin Air Filter (Activated Charcoal): CUK31242 - Qty: 1
-Spark Plug Tube: 112757021
Difficulty level 1-10: 9 -- because of so much that have to be removed and all the sensitive sensors that could be broken while removing and installing. It took me three days due to getting use to the tools that I had to use.
TIP: REMOVE THE HOOD STRUATES TO ALOW remove the hood striates to allow more room to work
1. Remove the hood struts for more room. (Optional)(A hood rod would be very useful)
2. Remove the two Black Panels and the engine cover
3. Remove the air filter box (for more room), intake assembly and the spark plugs covers.
4. Remove cabin filter box off
5. Remove the weather strip and the four bolts alone with two more torque screws underneath (T30) that hold the firewall bracket in.
6. Remove the air ducks for the cabin filters (T20). Tip: remember how to remove the "X CLAMP" so u want have a problem reassembling it back together.
7. Remove the E-Box cover Allen Wrench (5mm) pull it up. With the wire harness I just wiggled it up slightly out the way and gave myself room.
BANK 1: CLY. 1-4
8. Remove the Cam Sensors and Eccentric Shaft Sensor (T25 torx) connectors and screws. (Remove the connectors by squeezing the side tabs and pulling upwards. Eccentric shaft sensor connector pulls straight up.)(Replacement O-rings and sensor seals is listed up top)
9. Remove ignition coils by lifting up the tab and remove the sensor. Ignition coils 2, 4 and 8 were the hardest to remove. #2 has to get pass the ABS system and 8 and big screw on the firewall in back. A pull/twist helps to remove.
10. Remove the wire harness that's clipped to the valve cover by prying in-between with a screwdriver. Move it over as much as possible.
11. Remove the servomotor (Actuator) connection and four screws (Allen 4mm)(replace O-ring). Unscrew it out and when reassembling screw it back in. righty tighty lefty loosey! IMPORTANT: It requires you to initialize the servomotors but when u install it back turn the car on without starting it for 20s to relearn.
12. Remove the servomotor spacer, which has four screws (T25 torx). Just pull up and replace the O-ring around it, which comes in the valve cover gasket kit.
13. Remove the crankcase hose. VERY IMPORTANT: Hose might be brittle and fall apart in your hand. And those hose cost about $150 give of take.
14. For more room remove the two screws (T25 torx) from the antifreeze reservoir and just slide it over. (Makes it little easier to remove the valve cover.
15. Removing valve cover thirteen 10mm bolts. The screw in the back might be a little difficult to reach but it could be done. VERY IMPORTANT: when removing and installing the valve cover is very careful not to break the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. When installing the valve covers be patient and very careful. It is a very difficult task. IMPORTANT: after removing all screws from valve cover, make sure the Grommet stay in place until
removal. You wouldn't want broken parts from those falling into your oil system. IMPORTANT: When reinstalling the valve cover gaskets make sure you put some gasket-sealing Black silicone on the corners of each half-moon.
16. After removing the valve cover gasket make sure to remove the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. It only goes on one way.
17. Remove all spark plugs and spark plug tubes and if you haven't replaced them before here is a good time to do so. When reinstalling make sure to lube (White lithium grease) top and bottom of the spark plug tubes for an easier installation of the valve cover. TIP: Guide the tubes in the right spot whole pushing slightly on the valve cover.
18. Remove the cam oil line for easier access to the valve stems.
TIMING CHAIN CASE (CYL. 1-4)
19. Remove the brake vacuum pump (replace O-ring). You have to remove the hose line from on top and front (they are some clamps). For the top tab just bend it down and slip a flat head screwdriver under the tab to break it loose. Also there are two 10mm Nuts that hold a vacuum line in place. There is a small line in front that held on by a tab. TIP: Be careful not to break this line it could be very brittle.
20. Remove the three external torxs (E8) that's holding the metal bracket that holding the brake vacuum pump.
21. Remove the pump and it's important that you remember the position of the rotor. Installing the pump it's a floppy vain that sticks out. You want to make sure it straight when it goes in to fit back into the grove on the other side. A pic tool might be nice to have.
22. Remove the solenoid that's held in by a clip with a 10mm bolt and connection wire (Press down on metal spring and pull). Replace the O-ring on the solenoid.
23. Remove the clip holding the wires in front of the timing cover case just pry that a loss with a screwdriver.
24. Remove the timing cover case which eight 10mm bolts. You might have to remove the Y hose over and unplug the connector to the water pump.
25. Pry the timing cover case (TCC) gently with a screwdriver. Clean the TCC and replace the gasket with the new one.
BANK 2 (CYL. 5-8) ONLY DIFFERNTS
26. Remove the gas line by pushing in and pushing the black lever then pull a loss. Be carefully cause it could quite a bit of gas still in the line. Try not to let it get in your eyes.
27. There is a couple of tabs that hold some wires in place just open it and move the wires over some.
28. There is a purge valve in front that should remove for more room. Just squeeze the tabs and pull down. Remove the bracket that holds the purge valve you can remove it or not. (It's optional)
29. When remove the valve cover case (REFER BACK TO STEP 15) it's basically the same thing just on the other side. NOTE: when installing the valve cover remove the dipstick and start slightly form the center and work it in.
TIMING COVER CASE (CYL. 5-8) REFER BACK TO BANK 2 (CYL. 5-8) steps 8-21 FOR
30. You will need to wedge the large wire harness (which goes to the alternator) from the clips that hold it in place and bend it out of the way a LITTLE. The clip is held in by two screws that hold the harness
31. Remove the solenoid that's held in by a clip with a 10mm bolt and connection wire (Press down on metal spring and pull). Replace the O-rings on the solenoids.
32. Remove the timing cover case (TCC) gently. Clean the TCC and replace with the new gasket.
While everything is a loose its time to replace the Valve Stem Seals using the N62 Valve Stem Seal Tool. I'm not going to go into details about how to use the tool because AGA does a step-by-step video of the entire procedure.
I would say after a few time using the tool thing got a lot smoother and faster.
As for the code p0492 (secondary air injection) when everything is apart makes it easier to slide your hand behind the engine (so you don't need a pair of little girl hands) to remove the air tube for the cleaning that specified in AGA video. It just makes the job go a little easier. I'm not going to go into details about how to use the tool because AGA does a step-by-step video of the entire procedure
CAR NOT SMOKING ANYMORE AND RUNS LIKE NEW. TOOK A 14-20K JOB AT THE DEALER and turned it into a much affordable job. It takes a lot of time!
MESSAGE ME WITH ANY QUESTION AND OR IF YOU NEED MY ASSISTANTS.
Last edited by Knight's Master Tech; 10-18-2014 at 01:13 PM. Reason: ADD A LINK
great post, about to do this too. Did you use the AGA tool or did you mange with the universal one. Looks like in the video you used the universal camshaft tool but your post said refer to AGA. Will a semi experienced mechanic be able to do this with only the universal tool?
|2002 bmw 745i, n62/e65/e66 valve stem seals, o-rings, p0492 & p0491, secondary air bank 1 and bank2, smoke from tale pipe, timing case gasket, valve cover gasket|
|Today's Posts Search|