7 Series DIY
Do It Yourself forum dedicated for 7 Series BMW Owners
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DIY - E65/E66 - Valve cover gasket (passenger side)
This DIY is about the passenger side (only) and is slightly abbreviated compared to my other thread for the driver side:
For this E65/E66 DIY you'll need:
- Gasket set (Zyl. 1-4) : 11127513194 : 75$
- Pipe 4x : 11127570219 : 100$
- Valvetronic O-Ring : 07119903596: 3$
- Sensor Sealing : 11127518420: 5$
- Sensor O-Ring 2x : 12141748398: 5$
- Rubber seals (3x spares) : 11127511582 : 8$ (optional)
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568834: 15$ (optional)
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568835: 20$ (optional)
- Spark Plugs 8x : 45$ (optional)
- Torque wrench capable of 5 - 25NM
- Torx sockets (male & female), Tx20, 25, 27, 30 - E6
- Hex keys (Allen)
- Metric sockets 10mm
- Water-based lubricant
- Good (!!) set of socket tools including universal joints, multiple lenth extenders
Difficulty Level 1-10: 6 -- seemed easier than the drivers side. Did this DIY in one evening (17:00 --> 01:00)
Before starting to work, remove the lower engine compartment screening and reinforcement plate. You will drop stuff, this will give you a chance to retrieve it.
(Actually I didn't take my own advice and managed not to drop anything this time round)
Also let the engine cool down.
Use two compartmented boxes. One for the parts to be inserted. One for the parts extracted. Place them in chronological order.
Before you start, these are the items I had most difficulty with. Think about them and possibly you can avoid them.
- the retaining tabs on the eccentric shaft sensor break easily. If you break both, its a 350$ part. Make as much room as you can.
- to remove the old round rubber seals, place the valve cover on a large piece of cardboard. The old seals were quite bittle and broke during removal. You do not want to have little plastic pieces floating around in your oil system. Check that all is clean.
- The pipes do not like to be inserted into the valve cover easily. I had good success using CVS personal lubricant as anti-friction coating.
- If the lower cap nuts do not want to engage, I'd suggest removing all cap nuts, wiggling and then only inserting the lower center cap nut. You can use additional washers to temporarily use an upper cap nut and increase tension with the washer until it pops in.
- torques are not listed in TIS. Be careful not to overtorque. If you can't sanely reach the end of the thread, the cover is not seated correctly.
!!! if you disconnect cables make sure the battery is disconnected !!!
1) Remove engine accoustic cover
2) Remove both fresh air ducts
3) Remove centre engine compartment partition wall (5171085)
4) Remove electronics box cover
5) Remove electronics box seal
6) Disconnect ignition cable in electronic box and strap it somewhere
7) Remove the charging port and attach it with cable strap so it doesn't float in your way.
8) Remove intake filter housing (with raw air housing, you can use the space for shifting the position of the cooling reservoir)
9) Remove intake hose with air-mass flow sensor
10) Remove ignition coil covering
11) Remove ignition coils (1213511)
12) Optional - Replace spark plugs (1212011) 23NM - use anti-seize agent
13) Remove servomotor for right eccentric shaft (1137024) - you must reinitialize the valvetronic setting before starting the engine, once the repair is completed. I heard this happens automatically after 20secs - ignition on w/o starting (aka foot off brake pedal). I re-learned it in INPA.
14) Replace sealing right cylinder head cover (1112006)
Removing and inserting the valve cover is difficult, as there is barely enough room to clear the eccentic shaft sensor. The valve cover has to be rotated with the front up maybe 25° to clear it.
- I used permatex ultra black where drei bond 1209 was called for.
- CVS personal lubricant served as my rubber anti-friction coating, and I'd recommend it for this purpose.
- If your torque reaches 15-20NM, before you notice you're at the end of the thread, the valve cover is not seated. (Ask me how I know)
15) Put everything back together again. Use
- 10 NM for the valve cover nuts and bolts
- 5NM for the torx sensor bolts
- 5NM for the Valvetronic spacer bolts
- 8NM for the Valvetronic motor
Hope this is a help.
Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs):
ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer
headlight vertical aim, VCGs, P0492
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