Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-16-2008, 04:19 AM
Shackett Shackett is offline
Registered User
Location: New Hampshire
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: 1996 328i and 2006 X3
Rear Deck Lid

Hello,

My 1996 was manually released by mistake, now after several attempts to synchronize it still doesn't work correctly. When I put the top up or down it hits the rear deck. For some reason the rear deck doesn't open all the way. Does anybody know how to adjust this problem?

Thanks,
Chuck
Reply With Quote
Ads by Google
  #2  
Old 12-16-2008, 03:18 PM
shamulater's Avatar
shamulater shamulater is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Outer Banks
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 191
Mein Auto: 99 M3
Hopefully this gives some help.





Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-18-2008, 02:26 PM
Shackett Shackett is offline
Registered User
Location: New Hampshire
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: 1996 328i and 2006 X3
thanks, that sync. everything up just fine. Now, how do you replace those little gas presurized springs on the tonneau cover?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-18-2008, 04:39 PM
shamulater's Avatar
shamulater shamulater is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Outer Banks
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 191
Mein Auto: 99 M3
This is instructions from a source I have saved from another site though I've yet to actually have to replace the struts myself.

How to replace the storage cover gas springs/struts on a 1999 M3 Convertible.

Head to the dealership, and provide the dealer with your vin so that the parts guy can provide you with the proper gas springs/struts for your particular model. Apparently there is more than one application for the 1999 model year M3, not sure about the 1998 model year M3. Can't speak for other year E36's. My gas spring was identical to the one shown in this graphic
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/s/z/5.png

In order to get to the mounting points of the springs, you will need to pull back/remove the carpeting on the left and right sides of the trunk. On both sides you will see open holes in the inner skin of the sheetmetal, and the gas springs/struts will be visible inside of these holes. On my 1999 M3, I was able to use a flathead screwdriver to slightly pull back the metal clip on the lower mount of the gas springs, and release them from their mounts. On the passengers side of the car, I was able to reach back through the hole just ahead of the radio antenna mounting, and push the black metal vertical lever that is attached to the upper point of the gas spring, outward. This releases the strut from it's upper mount. On the drivers side, you have less room to work with due to the motor that is mounted to the quarter panel just ahead of the drivers side tail light, so you may need to release the upper mount from the top. To do that, you must close the trunk, then open the convertible top halfway. Once the storage cover is fully open, stop the opening process, get out, and reach down into drivers side storage cover hole. Locate the gas spring/strut upper mount release lever, and press it outwards. The gas spring should release, and fall down. Close the top, open the trunk, and remove the old strut(s).

In order to install the new struts, you need to follow a two step process.

For the passenger side, I was able to pop on the upper mount of the gas spring/strut through the hole in the storage cover area. To do this, I opened the convertible top until the storage cover opened fully, then stopped the opening process. With the gas spring in my hand, I reached down into the hole (it's tight..if you have huge fat hands, you might have a problem here), and going by feel, was able to attach the strut to the upper mount. I then was able to reach all the way down into the hole, and press the gas spring/strut onto the lower mount. You should hear/feel audible clicks when the springs/struts are fully mounted properly into their mounts. In order to get the lower portion of the strut snapped onto the lower mount, you may need to push back fairly firmly against the storage cover, so that the mouting points line up properly. You may find it helpful to temporarily pop off the rubber stops that are attached to the arms of the storage cover, so the cover can go back as far as abslutely possible. You also may need to pull upwards on the bottom of the strut in order to get it upwards that last 1/4 inch it will need to snap onto the lower mount. This will require you to get your hand FULLY down into the tight hole.

Re-attach your carpet, and that's that.

I was able to do this without moving any of the motors or drivers side items ahead of the drivers side tailight.

On the passenger side, it was easier for me to unscrew that one nut that holds the antenna mount in place and push the mount aside, as it allowed me to reach through that vertical hole that faces the passenger side tailight.

Good Luck. and remember, this is how you do it if your struts have the black vertical lever at the top. Some of the struts appear to have a bolt threaded onto the upper mount, and I can't speak for the Remove and Replace process for those.



***************Update***************
04/07/2007.

Mparallel reports an easier way to reach the shocks.

"And now the biggest tip I can give....

...remove the lid!! It's just 4 10mm bolts (I had a friend help me for this)

This way (you need to insert something so the microswitch (on the right lock hinge) won't activate the interlock (I used a large allen key) you can have the hinges AND the lit FULLY open at once.

Why is this good? Because now you can install the gasshock while it's fully extended. So no need at all to try and sqeeze it together in a place where my hands won't go."
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-18-2008, 08:38 PM
E36 Phantom's Avatar
E36 Phantom E36 Phantom is online now
I Am The Machine
Location: Somewhere Between The Valley & The Bay
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 20,287
Mein Auto: Dreier, Fünfer & Siebener
Whoa. GREAT info Shamulator!

Don't remember seeing you on here, but good save. I don't think hardly any of us had the vert info.
__________________
// Chad // 2001 BMW 740i M-Sport // 2002 Lexus LX470 //
// 1997 BMW 328iS Sport // 1995 BMW 540i/6 Sport //
// 2000 Kawasaki Concours 1000 // 1998 Honda CBR900RR //



Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimKlim View Post
You're a derbanana
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-19-2008, 01:51 AM
shamulater's Avatar
shamulater shamulater is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Outer Banks
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 191
Mein Auto: 99 M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by E36 Phantom View Post
Whoa. GREAT info Shamulator!

Don't remember seeing you on here, but good save. I don't think hardly any of us had the vert info.
Thank you..real credit goes to the guy who wrote that DIY up...Iseguy...he did a great job on discribing the fix.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-19-2008, 04:08 AM
Shackett Shackett is offline
Registered User
Location: New Hampshire
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: 1996 328i and 2006 X3
Thanks, i'll give it a try!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-27-2010, 12:55 PM
Crashj Crashj is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Raleigh NC USA
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 234
Mein Auto: 1994,318ci,Red,vert
Late posting to this thread. I just replaced mine today. I was able to replace the passenger side by removing the rubber bumper and compressing the strut by hand a couple of mm only. I was able to replace the rubber bumper by opening the lid with the bumper in place, lubed with some soap, and pushing against a blade blade for support.
I could not replace the driver side because the compression required is several inches and the force is considerable. I would guess there is a special BMW tool to hold the strut compressed. The good news is the passenger side only install provides enough force to hold the lid open for now. If it wears out, I have a, ahem, spare, since I bought two from Pelican.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-04-2012, 06:02 PM
feen328i feen328i is offline
feendizzle
Location: Southern Pines, NC
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 47
Mein Auto: '97 328i conv
I just did my compartment (tonneau) cover for a full auto top (one shock on driver side only). taking the tonneau cover off is essential and be prepared to for a bit of trial and error to get it back lined up when you are done.

It's not a hard job but took me half a day to get everything apart. The top part of the shock is a total force job to get it off, I kept hoping if I turned or twisted something everything would easily come apart, not the case. The bottom mount has a little clip on the back that you that you wack out of place to loosen with a screw driver and hammer. For sure putting the new shock on the top mount first is easiest.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-04-2012, 06:32 PM
dc_wright's Avatar
dc_wright dc_wright is online now
bimmerfest Supporting Member
Location: Orlando, Florida
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,715
Send a message via ICQ to dc_wright
Mein Auto: '96 328iC, '04 325Ci
Quote:
Originally Posted by feen328i View Post
I just did my compartment (tonneau) cover for a full auto top (one shock on driver side only). taking the tonneau cover off is essential and be prepared to for a bit of trial and error to get it back lined up when you are done.

It's not a hard job but took me half a day to get everything apart. The top part of the shock is a total force job to get it off, I kept hoping if I turned or twisted something everything would easily come apart, not the case. The bottom mount has a little clip on the back that you that you wack out of place to loosen with a screw driver and hammer. For sure putting the new shock on the top mount first is easiest.
I've had mine off a couple of times for various reasons. I just use a pencil and trace the outline of the brackets onto the tonneau cover before I unbolt it. Then you use that for positioning it when you put it back on. Alignment is then spot on without any trial and error.
__________________
2006 Z4 3.0si Sport Package (But I'll still hang with my "homies" in the E36 forum)

Last edited by dc_wright; 07-07-2012 at 10:18 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-07-2012, 08:45 AM
Macon318 Macon318 is offline
New '94 BMW 318iC *****
Location: Macon, GA
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: BMW 318iC
Quote:
Originally Posted by feen328i View Post
I just did my compartment (tonneau) cover for a full auto top (one shock on driver side only). taking the tonneau cover off is essential and be prepared to for a bit of trial and error to get it back lined up when you are done.

It's not a hard job but took me half a day to get everything apart. The top part of the shock is a total force job to get it off, I kept hoping if I turned or twisted something everything would easily come apart, not the case. The bottom mount has a little clip on the back that you that you whack out of place to loosen with a screw driver and hammer. For sure putting the new shock on the top mount first is easiest.
On my '94 318iC I also had to use the brute force method to remove the old struts. a pull with the claw side of a hammer on the bottom and a good tap with a hammer and screwdriver on the top side. Not terrible but I didn't like having to force it loose. I just couldn't get to the release clip and work it loose and the passenger side had much less room to maneuver than the driver side. Installing the new struts was impossible to try and compress the strut. I finally removed the deck lid and it gave me almost 2 extra inches of travel and the install went very quickly. If I had removed the deck lid in the first place I bet the whole job could be done in 2 hours or less and I'm very much the novice.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms