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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 03-23-2015, 05:40 PM
omarphi215 omarphi215 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1991 525i Auto
Rack and pinion cost and labor

Wasssup folks,
I recently found out that I need to replace my rack..I just replaced it about a year ago. I'm not upset because I got the rack itself for only $75...anyway, how much should it cost to replace one? I have a price in the unit, I'm looking for fair labor costs...also, besides bad tired and lack of an alignment, is there anything that could give the same symptoms as a bad rack? Keep in mind a Toyota dealership looked at the car (oil change special included 156 point inspection)
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  #2  
Old 03-23-2015, 05:53 PM
guapoman2000 guapoman2000 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1987 BMW 325i Convertible
Sorry, I am a DO-IT-YOURSELF (DIY) so, won't have the slightest idea?
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Old 03-23-2015, 06:05 PM
guapoman2000 guapoman2000 is offline
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Location: Orlando, Florida
 
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Mein Auto: 1987 BMW 325i Convertible
Quote:
Originally Posted by omarphi215 View Post
Wasssup folks,
I recently found out that I need to replace my rack..I just replaced it about a year ago. I'm not upset because I got the rack itself for only $75..

..also, besides bad tired and lack of an alignment, is there anything that could give the same symptoms as a bad rack?
Symptoms?????

All I know "is" that BMW and most Toyota vehicles require a specific Automatic Transmission fluid and NOT a traditional "Power Steering" fluid.

Check the cover cap as that's where you will see what type of fluid needs to be used!

Such as "example"

http://www.nextdayauto.com/1987-bmw-...3-1930425.html


Last edited by guapoman2000; 03-23-2015 at 06:36 PM.
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  #4  
Old 03-23-2015, 07:26 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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Mein Auto: 2012 hypermotard 796
did they say if the rack was leaking near the inner tie rod or just cause it was covered in oil residue?
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:07 PM
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cmac2012 cmac2012 is offline
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Location: Berkeley, CA
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Mein Auto: Two 1987 325i, 418K, 211K
I've heard of a range of $700 to $1200 approx, including the rack of course. I've so far been able to find used racks at pick n pull for about 40 and installed them myself but you have to look pretty good. Before I figured out how to look I bought two boneyard racks that lasted about a year. I might go with the Rack Doctor in future, their prices are decent as is their reputation. I kept my last rack core as Pick n Pull was only going to give me $10 for it, and I figure I'll see about sending it in to Rack Doctor ahead of time to avoid that steep mail order core charge.

What were the symptoms that made you think you had a bad rack? Every one of mine that's gone bad, it was obvious. Fluid leaking so much and so fast the pump would start that horrific squeal. When it got real bad, I had fluid on the driveway. Horrible stuff, that fluid.

When looking for a rack at the boneyard, I check the odo if it's still in - low miles of course a plus but you never know if it's the original odo. More important is to check to see if the boots are still intact, with ties still tight. If so, remove them, or at least the lower and shove the boot off the shoulder thingy to see if there's any fluid in the boot. If the boots were torn or loose, or if there's fluid inside, keep looking. Then again, neither of the racks I bought that went south in a hurry had those symptoms, but in hindsight, they didn't look too good either.

Once I bought one off of a vert with boots that looked like they had been bought a week before. I've been running that one on my first rig for at least 100K, probably longer, I should have recorded the mile figure but I didn't. Could be that a rebuild had been installed shortly before something more major went south.

Last edited by cmac2012; 03-23-2015 at 10:09 PM.
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  #6  
Old 03-24-2015, 12:41 PM
omarphi215 omarphi215 is offline
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Well the Toyota folks pissed me off by not having my car ready and I had to wait an additional day..I didn't get a chance to look at anything for myself..again I only went because it was a special oil change deal. However my symptoms are a constant "shimmy" on the drivers side front wheel..car pulls to the right at high speeds and when braking and lastly, I'm starting to get a squeal when I turn my wheel..I have yet to get under the car to look for leaks.
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:50 PM
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cmac2012 cmac2012 is offline
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Mein Auto: Two 1987 325i, 418K, 211K
Dang, could be a lot of things other than a bad rack. Doesn't even sound like a bad rack from what you describe, except for the squeal part. That could be from fluid having leaked from the bad rack such that it's low in the PS pump reservoir.

OTOH, perhaps the inner tie rods are lose as hell and that could explain the shimmy. Maybe they grabbed the tie rods hard and saw movement on the rack side and it's a slam dunk.
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Old 03-24-2015, 04:37 PM
ol' grouch ol' grouch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omarphi215 View Post
Well the Toyota folks pissed me off by not having my car ready and I had to wait an additional day..I didn't get a chance to look at anything for myself..again I only went because it was a special oil change deal. However my symptoms are a constant "shimmy" on the drivers side front wheel..car pulls to the right at high speeds and when braking and lastly, I'm starting to get a squeal when I turn my wheel..I have yet to get under the car to look for leaks.


Most of that sounds more like issues with the brakes. Pulling to one side could be a bad tie rod end and not the rack. My pump is failing and it growls and a rack will make a similar noise when it's cold. I like to put UV dye in the system and then after a while, check for leaks. I wouls trust a Toyota dealer to fix a known problem witha Toyota. On a BMW, they may just be churning for repair sales. The service writer may be on a quota. Find a good front end shop and have them check it over.
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