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F12 / F13 (2012 - Current)
The future is now! The all new 6 series coupe (F12) and convertible (F13) details are out and dealers are taking orders. Still no word on when the 4 door Gran Coupe will go into production.

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  #1  
Old 01-07-2014, 08:52 AM
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Tire Pricing

I'm at 16,370 miles, and my original Dunlop RFTs are at the end of their life. I've decided to stick with the same tires despite the temptation to ditch the RFTs. I've been happy enough with them. I'm sure there are better tires for the car, but the security of the RFT means more to me than the benefits in performance or acceleration by swapping to another type of tire.

The reason I started this thread is to get some opinions on pricing. The dealer is asking $2,530 for the new tires (including install, alignment, etc.). Is this reasonable, or am I getting screwed? On Tire Rack they're $1,706 (not counting shipping, install, or anything but sticker per the website).

Thoughts?


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  #2  
Old 01-07-2014, 09:26 AM
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From Tire Rack, add $60-$70 at a min for shipping, mounting, balancing, TPS kit, stems etc... then $200 for the alignment. If the dealer is giving you "road hazard" tire insurance, then figure another $200. You may save $200 bucks at Tire Rack, great company, but I've found out local purchase and install gets very close to their price. As an option, ask the Dealer to break it down and match the price, then you'll find out what the ancillary charges are. It doesn't sound like they are too far off for out the door pricing.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:33 AM
luigi524td luigi524td is offline
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I agree ... ask your dealer to "match" the TireRack price and if they can, throw them the business. I've had the experience of a good BMW Indy accidentally knock off the TPMS :-( so even a pro can make a mistake!!

On most situations I've found my BMW store install / balance prices pretty close to what the "good" tire shops charge and you'll have the added advantage that if they screw something up - like scratching a wheel - they (hopefully) won't try to weasel out of it.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:34 AM
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Thanks! I knew it was going to be an ugly number, but I just want to make sure it isn't uncharacteristically ugly, if you know what I mean.

One other thing - Is one brand in particular better in terms of lifetime than another? I understand that with 20" rims requiring fat rubber the options are fairly limited, and all of them are relatively high performance. My service guy said they all get about the same (Michelin, Continental, Dunlop) at this level of tire. I'd be willing to give up a little performance if it meant another few thousand miles.


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Old 01-07-2014, 09:37 AM
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Back in the day when I had my 645Cic and 650i verts...the M6 was a totally different story when it came to tires...I could get a pair of rear Bridgestone RFTs from the Firestone shop for just under $800 and that included balancing, mounting, and disposal of the old tires. I recall being quoted $700 for a pair of the fronts. By the way, these were 19"s.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:44 AM
Superfluous Superfluous is offline
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Do you have the tire/wheel insurance policy? If yes, do you know if you can go away from runflats and still be covered?
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:51 AM
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I don't have the insurance policy. I've had these tires for the 1 year, 11 months, and 7 days that I've had the car. Thankfully, I haven't had any issues with them aside from some rim rash they made disappear for $125.


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Old 01-07-2014, 09:58 AM
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One issue with tire manufacturers, staggered fitment, like on the 650, typically kills any tread warranty. If you're comfortable with NOT having a run flat, then you will enjoy smoother rides, longer life and more comfortable driving and lots of options (Hankook Ventus 12 etc) . The run flat side walls are so stiff and most all are performance tires, but there are a few options based on needs. Again, I think there are tons of options and a TON of posts about tires. I do like Bridgestone's RE 760 ( if I'm not mistaken) Go with "non directional" tires so you can swap left to right at least. Good luck, but it's an owner preference thingy we're talking about.
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2014, 10:07 AM
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Do non-RFTs get that much better mileage? This is my first car that (a) has RFTs and (b) has performance tires. I know the softer, stickier tires don't last as long, but I might consider dropping the RFTs if it means more miles.


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Old 01-07-2014, 10:07 AM
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You should consult ShakeDaddy about the tires he bought.
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Old 01-07-2014, 10:56 AM
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I took another look at Tire Rack, and the same Dunlops in non-RFT are $866 vs. $1686 for the RFTs. I'm very tempted. Any arguments against going this route?

The Pirelli P Zero non-RFTs were pretty much the same as the RFTs (~ $1550 for the set). They didn't have the Michelin Pilot Super Sports listed for these rims.

There are some Continental all seasons that have thicker treads, but the description made it sound like the benefits are only seen in the snow, not the rain (which is my bigger concern). I also worry about decreasing traction by going to all-season now that I've had two years to get used to a certain level of traction with performance summer tires.


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Old 01-07-2014, 11:22 AM
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I really like Tire Rack reviews. Poke around there to get a feel for what others say. Also, as mentioned above, there are some strong opinions and feedback on this site. I assume when you say "mileage", you're referring to life span. As with most, when you move from the performance tire to a touring type of tire, then yes you should get longer life. BMW sets up the suspension in such a way that most all tire options will have short life. I had a Mercedes CL500 that was killing me with eating up tires and I tried everything. I ended up using Bridgestone's asymmetrical tire tread so I could swap left right and that did squeeze out longer life. However driving habits will do more to lengthen performance. Based on your 16k miles on your car, that's almost exactly where I'm at on my own. I've got about 15k and the wear bars are just now showing. but I do all highway miles.

Let the Run Flat issue be an issue of safety and convenience. If you need or what the sleep factor of not worrying about flats, go RFT's. If you don't stray from home and you could afford calling roadside assistance or what to carry a can of fix a flat, then opt out of RFT's. RFT's will give you a harsher ride, less tire options, higher risk of bending your rim when you hit a pothole, probably less life. BUT, they will get you home if you run over something.

Again, do some research and don't rush it. If/when you move away from RFT's, then for the price of one set of RFT's you can get two sets of "normal" tires. A big chunk of the tire expense is going to be the TPS kits, install etc.

Hope this helps.
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  #13  
Old 01-07-2014, 11:38 AM
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I don't want to jinx it, but I've been driving for 9 years now, and I've never had a flat (or any type of tire trouble). My local roads are really pretty good, so I think that has really helped me out.

The big plus for the RFTs would be if I got stuck downtown late at night, and I'd be stuck waiting on BMW or AAA to come get me. As mentioned above, history is in my favor here, but my compulsive nature won't let go of that nagging "what if." I rarely drive through questionable areas of town or considerable highway distances, but the ability to keep on going does offer some comfort.

I do also wonder if the added rigidity that hurts the ride quality with run flats has saved me from ruining a tire. I've hit a few pot holes over the last two years that really made me wonder if it caused damage to the tire or rim. Can't help but wonder if a non-RFT would fare as well.

You mentioned the expense of the TPS. Does something have to be changed from the factory setup for the non-RFTs?
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southern6er22 View Post

You mentioned the expense of the TPS. Does something have to be changed from the factory setup for the non-RFTs?
TPS is the same, however when they install a new tire the valve stem, with the TPS sensor needs to be "rebuilt" minor thing but added expense.

From reading on this forum, the RFT's actually contribute or drives have seen a higher rate of bent rims b/c of the RFT's. Not sure why...

Well, the "Sleep Factor" thing IS a big deal and if you feel better with the RFT's then stick with em. That's the camp that I'm in. I hate surprises.

Budget for tire replacement and cut back on a Starbucks once a week.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=728276

Review the above link to round out your decisions process.
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:06 PM
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Haha. Thanks again for your help. Can't put a price on the value of these forums. First world problems, trivial though they may be, need discussion and an empathetic forum.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:52 PM
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I just replaced all four of my tires.. Kept the stock setup.. I was tempted to go with spacers and a non RFT set up. But my SA and tech advised against it. Their explanation was that these cars are engineered to the exact specifications of their stock parts. You start changing things and run into trouble. I did not want to run into an issue and have to pay for something that wasn't covered under warranty..

Also I hit a mammoth pothole that put a bubble in my front passenger side tire and kept on driving. It was 4am. Had the tire been a non RFT I would have been SOL.. After that experience I decided to get the run flats.

I did have tire rack send the tires directly to the dealership. Which was pretty convenient.. If I had to do it again that's how I would do it...


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Old 01-07-2014, 02:02 PM
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Thanks for the input. I am all about keeping it stock. There's so much chatter around here about how much better the car is after ditching the "run craps" that it's very tempting. I've got my service guy getting me a quote on the non-RFT Dunlops so I can compare pricing based on their quotes and not just Tire Rack.

Ultimately, I guess I just need to decide if the non-RFT pros outweigh the chance of needing the RFT security.
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Old 01-07-2014, 02:19 PM
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Shake Daddy and I have both ditched the runflats; I have Hankook Ventus V-12 and I think he has Toyo's (??)) The 20" Dunlop runflats aren't awful; it's just std tires are so much better.

I have been running the 'kooks on my BMW's for many years and they are great tires! If you have a Discount Tire/America's Tire outlet in your vicinity they will often meet/beat Tire Rack's price and you don't have to pay shipping or wait.

Don't listen to the dealer's BS about "keeping it stock" when he is pitching tires.

dk
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Old 01-07-2014, 04:23 PM
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@Southern that is pretty much what it comes down too honestly.. For me the security was something I couldn't give up.. Especially since my wife often drives my car...

@Dk I don't disagree that non run flats are better.. On my e64 650.. I upgraded my wheels from the stock 19's to some 21's.. The 21's rode much better with non run flat tires than the 19's did with the run flat tires... That's very telling..


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Old 01-07-2014, 05:34 PM
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I'd give a +1 on the Hankooks V12. As mentioned I ran them on a CL500 Mercedes and they had a well balanced performance profile. Lot of tire for the money.
Just picked up my 650i from the dealer with my brand new Winter Tire package...run flat Dunlop's...time will tell. 1100 mile road trip to KCMO from Dallas and back...most likely it won't snow on this trip...
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:29 PM
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Just a thought from the med school faculty side. Forget classes but showing up late for clinical rotations looks really bad. No matter how much of a Super Stud you may be, "flat tire" tardiness won't help your future.
Sorry to say it but consider the conservative approach (RFTs) for now.
Just an opinion (been there, done that).
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:39 PM
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Very good point. Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2014, 03:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WWnyc View Post
Just a thought from the med school faculty side. Forget classes but showing up late for clinical rotations looks really bad. No matter how much of a Super Stud you may be, "flat tire" tardiness won't help your future.
Sorry to say it but consider the conservative approach (RFTs) for now.
Just an opinion (been there, done that).
This is the most salient point in this thread.

Southy: You're a young guy. You have plenty of time to experiment with differnt tires on different cars and hopefully will earn the money to do so. Now is the time to focus on school.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WWnyc View Post
Just a thought from the med school faculty side. Forget classes but showing up late for clinical rotations looks really bad. No matter how much of a Super Stud you may be, "flat tire" tardiness won't help your future.
Sorry to say it but consider the conservative approach (RFTs) for now.
Just an opinion (been there, done that).
A very good point! When my daughter was at NYMC in Valhalla/ interning at Vinnies/ resident at Montefiore I kept RFT's on her 335 for the same reasons

dk
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Old 01-08-2014, 07:11 PM
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I needed a all weather tire for the winter. No RTF options for that.. So I got the conti AWS. OMG the car rides and handles so different. Different in a good way. I bought a 2nd set of 20 rims to keep the dunlop RTF…. 3 are brand new.. thanks to the tire and wheel..

cost out the door 1175.00.

way better in the rain and at least i can drive it in the snow!!

Spare bothers me a lot. RTF or not…. I hear some talk of a BMW kit but would like to get more info.

I do not know if I will go back to the RTF.. our roads are real bad and I have bent 1 rim and 3 RTF tires. There not as tough as you think..

hope this helps..
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