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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-16-2012, 11:12 AM
lonewolf525 lonewolf525 is offline
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My car will not start. Battery is good but no crank.

ok guys. i have an 06 525i with 90k miles and it will not start. i parked the car after i got home and when i went back the next morning to go to work my car would not even crank The battery i had replaced a 6 or 7 months ago so i tested it with a volt meter and battery had 13.5 volts. Enough juice to start the car so i illuminated a bad battery. Now i was stuck as i did not have a friend with scanner to check for additional codes or faults. Next thing to do was doing lots of research on here and online regarding this problem. Although some members did recommend some modules and other electrical, i found that these three things were more likely to be the source of my problem.

Three things to look for:

1 Key not working. try another key.

2. CAS (since i did not have a scanner i could not check it)

3. Starter


Ok well i wanted to test the starter but i could not get access to it since it is under the intake manifold and back towards the fire wall in my car. i could test the positive cable by using a long screw driver and the with multimeter test for power. Well i did have power but still not cranking. Then i started looking for the signal wire and it was harder to reach since it too but decided to follow the wire and it went to a module on the intake manifold. i took the air filter assembly completely out and i was finally able to test the signal wire to starter. Well we put the key in forward position i got signal but the starter would not work. Right there i said it was the starter that was no good.

Ok now we have to remove the starter under intake manifold. i removed all the plastic covers on the engine and another v-shaped plastic holder that was holding two cables assemblies. Once we took those out of the way i started to remove the nuts and bolts for the intake assembly. i did disconnect two additional sensors and a black box that connected right at the throttle body so i could move the intake to the side. As a result i got enough space to remove the starter. Now you have to bolts holding the starter in place. The front one is easy to remove with a torx socket and a small extension. However, the bolt in the others side is a lot harder to remove. you would need an eleven metric wrench and you would use the round part of the wrench to remove. Since that bolt is long it will take a while to remove from the starter. Once you got that out take your starter out and reverse the process. i forgot to mention you will have to remove the clip that holds the signal wire on the starter.

i replaced mine on my car and now it is working like a charm. i actually rebuilt my starter the only thing wrong with my starter was that i did not have any brushes. i got a not brush holder, new brushes and put it back together for about half the cost of a new one. The car started right up on the first crank and has been working for about two weeks now. Hope this helps someone.
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  #2  
Old 07-16-2012, 04:23 PM
l1tech l1tech is offline
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How did your 12 volt battery have 13.5 volts
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  #3  
Old 07-16-2012, 06:32 PM
luilui41 luilui41 is online now
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Do your dash lights come on?
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  #4  
Old 07-16-2012, 06:52 PM
tchavera tchavera is offline
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Still holding charge from the alternator that charges at about 14.2

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Bimmer App
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  #5  
Old 07-17-2012, 09:59 AM
pcy pcy is offline
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did you take any pictures while replacing the manifold and/or the starter?

I am thinking of [preemptively] having the starter remanufactured. 115K miles on my car with original starter. That seems one of the weak link.
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  #6  
Old 07-18-2012, 11:05 AM
lonewolf525 lonewolf525 is offline
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Yes the battery is holding just fine and since i did have the car parked for a week and it could have lost a little charge during the times i was checking the car. Now that the starter is working everything is back to normal.

i did not take any pictures of me taking of the intake manifold but there is nothing to it. Remove the plastic covers, air filter assembly, and the bolts of the intake manifold. You will need to unplug three sensors to have more space when moving the manifold to the side. i did not take out the whole manifold. i just disconnected enough items to give me space to access the starter.
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  #7  
Old 07-18-2012, 11:09 AM
lonewolf525 lonewolf525 is offline
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Luilui41 the lights would all work but the car would not crank. i could access the menu to see the car service system and still get no information as to something not working. Decided to check the starter with volt meter to determine signal from key to starter. i did have a signal so i figured that the starter was my problem.
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  #8  
Old 07-18-2012, 03:45 PM
TRS550 TRS550 is offline
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Typical no starts like this are often due to the Integrated Supply Module going bad. Do a search on this topic and have your Indy mechanic check it.
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  #9  
Old 07-18-2012, 03:46 PM
TRS550 TRS550 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1tech View Post
How did your 12 volt battery have 13.5 volts
Are you serious????
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  #10  
Old 07-19-2012, 07:37 AM
lonewolf525 lonewolf525 is offline
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Yes, i also had some lights connected to my battery at first when try to figure out what was wrong. since i got sick for a week and then the car sitting there for another week before i was better. When i started to test the starter i checked volts on battery and it was 13.5 volts. i think the lights i had hook up and the key in the forward position could have drain it. Once i put the starter back, the car started right up on the first crank.

Last edited by lonewolf525; 07-19-2012 at 07:40 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #11  
Old 10-08-2012, 07:58 AM
oOAngelOo oOAngelOo is offline
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Thanks for the write up lonewolf. I am also stuck on a similar situation. The car has a no start no crank. I have looked on several forums and they state it's the CAS module or the ISM or the IBS. I don't want to spend thousands of dollars to try to figure it out if its just the starter. Can you explain how you tested once more? Did you test the solenoid or the starter? Thanks.
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