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6 Series
The BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 09-26-2012, 10:28 AM
jglencurry jglencurry is offline
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Cool Ceramic Brake Pads

I am new to the forum. Many of you may already know this. I replaced the brakes on my '04 645 with ceramic brake pads at the recommendation of friend and fellow BMW owner..*****, was that ever worth the extra money! Goodbye ugly brake dust that appears 5 minutes after you clean the wheels. Used a local shop here in Atlanta area who are great with suspensions, brakes and tires. Still saved me several hundred dollars over what the dealer would have charged.
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  #2  
Old 09-26-2012, 11:04 AM
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What pads did you use?
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  #3  
Old 09-27-2012, 05:19 AM
jglencurry jglencurry is offline
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I called the shop and they used Akebono Ceramic Pads.
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  #4  
Old 09-27-2012, 09:07 AM
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Thanks. I'm not far from needing brakes and look forward to loosing the german pads and dust. I've seen a few people recommend the Akebono's.
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  #5  
Old 09-27-2012, 02:25 PM
osbornes26 osbornes26 is offline
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Whats the name of the shop?
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  #6  
Old 10-12-2012, 02:14 PM
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amanra amanra is offline
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Did you stick to the OEM rotors? Have you noticed a difference in the bite of brake pads in comparison to the OEM brake pads?
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  #7  
Old 10-12-2012, 02:49 PM
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greco2000 greco2000 is offline
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On my 7 I switched to R1 Conceps cross drilled rotors (I think they use Stop tech) and Akebono brake pads. I loved it! Too bad when I bought my wheels the dealer did a new brake job! I feel bad changing brand new OEM pads. Brake dust is a beatch though!
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  #8  
Old 10-13-2012, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amanra View Post
Did you stick to the OEM rotors? Have you noticed a difference in the bite of brake pads in comparison to the OEM brake pads?
I just did my rears. I went with the Akibionos and Zimmerman rotors. Very happy so far. I think I will do OEM with the Akibonos in front when the time comes.

Plus one on the dust reduction
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  #9  
Old 10-17-2012, 01:38 PM
shan904 shan904 is offline
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I need to get my front brakes done soon. My cousin can put them on for me. I guess I'm trying to figure out what the difference in quality is if you do the brakes yourself vs going to the dealer to get them done. I saw you went with the Akebono cermaic brakes. Are these the right ones? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ono_14340325-p
I recently had my cousin replace my rear brakes not with cermaic, I can't remember what brand they are. Can I still put these ceramics on the front if I have something different on the back? I guess I don't want to pay $200+ to get my front brakes done if I can do a diy for $100 but I want to make sure I'm not sacrificing quality. Like are the brake pad the dealer will you better than the Akebonos? Thanks for your help!
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  #10  
Old 10-17-2012, 07:34 PM
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You can mix ceramic and non-ceramic pads but there in one thing you need to be careful of. If you have a very high torque pad in the rear (say OEM from the dealer or Hawk HP+ for example) and then install medium torque pads in the front like the Akebono, this can cause instability during hard braking from high speed. When the rear pads are doing more work than the the front the car tends to want to swap ends or spin.

I would go for the Akebono in the front then do a high speed panic stop in a parking lot when it's raining. If the car feels OK then leave the rear pads in. If you feel the car get squirmy under braking I would order a set of Akebono for the rear and install them to match the front.

Akebono make very high quality pads, but they do not stop as well as OEM pads due to the material they use. It's an extremely low dusting material and does not bite as well as OEM.
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  #11  
Old 10-17-2012, 07:39 PM
shan904 shan904 is offline
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Thanks for the response Yorgi! The rear brake pads are not performance quality or anything but I'll have to test it out once I get the fronts done as you suggested. Thanks again :-)
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  #12  
Old 10-18-2012, 09:08 AM
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Laslonimne Laslonimne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yorgi View Post
. . . do a high speed panic stop in a parking lot when it's raining.
Either you have MUCH larger parking lots in Toronto than we have in Tulsa or you and I have a different definition of "high speed."
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  #13  
Old 10-18-2012, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Laslonimne View Post
Either you have MUCH larger parking lots in Toronto then we have in Tulsa or you and I have a different definition of "high speed."
LOL. Howdy stranger. Hope you've been busy on some mega road trip.

Well "high speed" compared to putting around neighborhood streets. Fast enough to get the ABS to kick in.

Any large mall should have a lot that will let you get up to 55mph without worrying about hitting curbs or poles.

A race track would be ideal but not many people have ever get a chance to run at a track.
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  #14  
Old 10-19-2012, 06:48 AM
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Laslonimne Laslonimne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yorgi View Post
Hope you've been busy on some mega road trip.
No mega trips lately. We're leaving Thursday for a Tulsa to New Orleans to Austin two-lane run. Plan to see great fall foliage, listen to lots of good music and eat well. Might even find a decent road or two in the Ozarks.

We're driving to Los Angeles for Thanksgiving and I'm replacing the front brakes before we leave. I'm using Akebono pads (with BMW rotors) so I'm very appreciative of your tip. It hadn't occurred to me that I might create a problem for myself while shutting down after a sprint to the speed limiter.
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  #15  
Old 10-19-2012, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laslonimne View Post
No mega trips lately. We're leaving Thursday for a Tulsa to New Orleans to Austin two-lane run. Plan to see great fall foliage, listen to lots of good music and eat well. Might even find a decent road or two in the Ozarks.

We're driving to Los Angeles for Thanksgiving and I'm replacing the front brakes before we leave. I'm using Akebono pads (with BMW rotors) so I'm very appreciative of your tip. It hadn't occurred to me that I might create a problem for myself while shutting down after a sprint to the speed limiter.
For the trip to New Orleans, I suggest you cut over to siloam springs, take Hi 16 (back roads) to Fayetteville, and then have some fun on old US 71 through the Boston Mountains south to Alma/Fort Smith. (used to live in NW AR as a teenager). Have a great trip!
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  #16  
Old 10-19-2012, 09:36 AM
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Laslonimne Laslonimne is offline
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Originally Posted by gregb View Post
For the trip to New Orleans, I suggest you cut over to siloam springs, take Hi 16 (back roads) to Fayetteville, and then have some fun on old US 71 through the Boston Mountains south to Alma/Fort Smith. (used to live in NW AR as a teenager). Have a great trip!
16 and 71 are great roads. I've driven and ridden motorcycles all over Western Arkansas. But we're spending the night in Clarksdale, MS (Ground Zero Blues Club) and 71 forces me South too soon. So I plan to take 412 to Harrison, then drop South.
Thanks for the recommendation though.

I am also looking for routes to LA that avoid the Interstate - I'm running out of new ways to get there.
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  #17  
Old 11-10-2012, 06:20 PM
shan904 shan904 is offline
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So I replaced my front brake pads with the akebono ceramics and got the brake error service signal. I bought new sensors, because i heard this is what causes the error, but when I go to install the new sensors, there is a lot of play. They are fitting in there snug. I tried to reset the brake service and it still wouldn't clear. Do you think it's because the sensor isn't fitting snug or is it because the sensor is possible not what is causing the service not to reset properly?
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  #18  
Old 11-10-2012, 09:20 PM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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You say they are snug but you also say there is a lot of play? That sounds contradicting to me.

The sensors should nap in very tightly with no wiggle. They are actually in so tight that the sensor tends to break when you remove it.

Did you buy OEM sensors? From what I've seen many of the aftermarket sensors are bad right out of the box. Sensors act like a fuse, if you get a bad one new in the box it acts like a blown fuse before you install it.

In order for the brake pad light to go out the sensor must be properly plugged into the car at the enclosure side and it must be "good". How the sensor plugs into the pad has no bearing on the pad warning light.
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  #19  
Old 11-11-2012, 03:37 AM
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Push like hell. I thought I was going to break the thing when I was installing it and like Yorgi said. There will be no play when it's in correctly.
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  #20  
Old 11-11-2012, 08:04 PM
shan904 shan904 is offline
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I meant to say they aren't fitting snug...oops. Tried to bypass the one in the front where I have the akebono ceramic pads since the sensor wouldn't fit in there properly. Front brake pad control light still wouldn't clear. Even the old sensor that fit in the old brake pads which I'm thinking are both OEM, wouldn't fit in the akebono pads. The new and old sensors fit in there very loosely. The new sensor fit snug in my back brake pads ( these are not ceramic) but the rear brake control light still wouldn't clear. I have no idea what to do at this point....
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  #21  
Old 11-12-2012, 12:10 AM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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I would start by bypassing the sensors and/or testing the sensors.

To test a sensor you need a multimeter. Set it to ohms. Unplug the sensor from the enclosure and look inside the white plug. You will see two pins down inside. The pins are about 1" inside the socket so you may need some small alligator clip leads to clamp on the pins. You should see 0 to 0.1 ohms. If you see an open load across those two pins the sensor is bad.

Another thing you can do is bypass the sensors. If the brake pad warning goes out after bypassing the senors then you know the sensors are bad. Bypass one at a time to identify if it's a front or rear sensor with the problem.

Here is a great video showing how to bypass the sensors. The car is an E46 but the sensors setups are almost identical
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Straight lines are for fast cars...turns are for fast drivers
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'01 330Ci - winter beater


Last edited by Yorgi; 11-12-2012 at 12:16 AM.
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  #22  
Old 11-12-2012, 01:22 AM
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645/333 645/333 is offline
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Hi ! this may sound a bit dumb, but! some pads come with a smaller slot in one of the pads and a correct sized slot in another, so if you use the wrong slotted pad in the sensor location, clearly you will have a problem!! Secondly some of the newer sensors have come with two retaining springs coupled together, I suppose to ensure the pad stays in place.
I also once purchased a set of pads were the sensor would not fit and I had to file it down.
Finally for those changing pads generally, I have found that the rears wear as quickly as the fronts, so when changing the fronts I would always do the rears as a matter of course, ensuring that I always had a compatible setup front and rear at the same time!!!
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