E30 Build Thread

in some cases yes. when i hear the motor sounding like that, the first thing i want to check is valve lash.


do it cold and it's much easier.


and disregard the coathanger tip. that's for the m20's.



df

Will do, I'm off work tomorrow so I should be able to get some stuff done.

Thanks df!

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Did I see somewhere in these eight pages of fun you were looking for seats ??

not sure if a vert seat would work or not..

http://binghamton.craigslist.org/pts/3291771078.html

To bump the engine over while setting the valve lash, jumper from #1 pin to #11 pin.

Originally Posted by C14 Rider

Did I see somewhere in these eight pages of fun you were looking for seats ??

not sure if a vert seat would work or not..

http://binghamton.craigslist.org/pts/3291771078.html

I actually got some front
And rears just the other day.

Originally Posted by hornhospital

To bump the engine over while setting the valve lash, jumper from #1 pin to #11 pin.

Thanks Ken!

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Alrighty, first valve adjustment ever. Went smooth, wasn't too hard at all actually. The BMW eccentric key adjustment is slick. The hard part was knowing how "snug" is "snug" on the .008 feeler gauge.



However, she is all quiet now, no rattling.


As far as everything else, same issues. It went back to it's old ways by not staying running, and wouldn't start after it was running for a while. Also couldn't really give it throttle like usual. I even pinched the return line to build a hair more fuel pressure and it still died just the same.

I unplugged the ECU and it still built fuel pressure and turned over, almost like when it doesn't want to start the ECU isn't working. Thoughts? Also, the second coolant temp sensor next to the one I replaced had no resistance when I measured it with my multimeter, don't know if there is a spec or not though.

matt, so the m10 also uses the round adjustment cam on the rocker?? (never did an m10 adjustment, just the m20, but it makes sense they use the same set up)

when i googled for images all that came up were threaded style with a jamb nut. i used a piece of wire hanger with slightly bent ends to fit the hole in the eccentric.

anyway, what setting did you have your dvom set on?? if you were on the wrong setting you would not get an accurate reading.

there should be a resistance, though.



df

Yessir easy!

I had the meter the same as when I checked the other sensor.

What would you do next?

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what i would do next is grab a sammich....



srsly...with pickles.






ok. what do you mean '2nd' coolant sensor??

will this other sensorthat you replaced fit the plug of this sensor with no resistance?? if so, swap them out and see what happens. if the plug is different, then i would make a jumper lead to connect the harness to the sensor (and leave it plugged in, uninstalled to the engine, just secure it so it doesn't move around)

unless i misunderstood you. then add spicy brown mustard to the sammich...

df

I can swap sensor wires, it makes no difference.

Confused

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wait, maybe i am confused. you have 2 sensors, and replaced 1?? just plug the one you removed into the harness where the sensor that shows no resistance is. if it's sending the wrong voltage, the dme may think it's supposed to be in closed loop and is leaning out the engine.


df

I did that, no change. How do I check to see if there is a messed up wire?

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i would verify the voltage with your dvom. there should be a spec for the wire as it is a potentiometer. it should change the voltage through the sensor back to the dme.

you can backprobe the sensor wiring to see tha voltage back to the dme, and verify the same voltage @ the dme connector.

you will need to get a schematic. you may be able to find it under the 'wedophones' inthe stickies at the top.

i would round up the usual suspects, crank sensor, afm, coolant, tps, and o2. i'd also look through and see what sorts of things were found to be related in other m10 issues.

without seeing the charging system performance, battery condition and state of charge, and the gasses coming out of the tailpipe, i'm down to logical suspects. this is the sort of diagnostic routine that takes a lot of time, research for specs, and verification of components.




df

I have a case of beer in the fridge and taco meat made, what else do you need to come help me in person?

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an invitation....



actually i believe that you are about 4 hours away from me. i'm about 40 mins se of philly.
about 1/2way between philly & ac.


not sure if i could really swing it with the current work schedule, tho. i won't have time until november at the earliest.




df

Well I'll keep fiddling with it and see what happens until then lol. If you did by change want to come I would definitely give you gas money at least.

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I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make, but my charging system isn't up to snuff. Check out the vids.

How would all that effect how it runs?







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can't see the vids, but yes...the whole system runs off voltages. if the charging system is wonky then the rest of the performance can suffer as well.




df

Sorry Df, here they are:

yeah matt, that's pretty low...does it run any different when hooked up to the charger??



df

I think it idles better, I have to do more testing. I think this might explain why it won't start after a while, not enough current

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y'know,...if we keep this up, we'll have to rename this the matt & df thread....



kinda makes me feel like everyone is watching me...




df

Haha, have to do an alternator test. Just check voltage coming off of it?

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well it's definately *not* charging, but the question is why.

voltage regulator shot??

fuse/fusible link blown??

i'd check for power to the alternator first, and then, if there is power there i would check on how to test the regulator. i do believe they may be serviceable, but not absolutely positive.

i'd search that little bit of info on how to check the voltage regulator. i know (knew) how to do it on chrysler products (and some others) back inthe day, but that's been long forgotten info...




df

I read that the if the regulator is less than 5mm to replace it.



Here is mine:









Now, can I get the alternator tested without the regulator? If I can, I'll go ahead and order a regulator.

However I don't want to order one if the alternator is bad because I new alternator may come with a regulator.


PS, what is that wire on the back of alternator?