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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-05-2012, 09:03 PM
boomtufo boomtufo is offline
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Mein Auto: 1993 325i
No Start No Spark 325i

Hello, this is my first post to the forum, and I am very sorry if I am posting this in the wrong section, I am just not familiar yet.

Well, about a week ago, I had been driving my 1993 325i, for about 45 minutes, was in 4th gear, and I suddenly lost acceleration(was only at about 1800 rpms). I pumped the gas and my rpm's just dropped, and I had to roll off the road into a parking lot. Well I tryed everything, jumping my battery, roll starting it, checking all my relays, yanked out the back seat, could hear the fuel pump priming and pumping when engine was cranking. That night, my dad met me with some starting fluid, and it was firing off of the fluid. But we could not keep it going. So I had it towed home, and the last 4 days I have been trying everything I possibly can to get this thing running again, and its just not wanting to start. I have swapped out DME relay, Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel pump fuse, and tested the fuse with a test light and it is getting power, I have also tested my Crankshaft Position Sensor, I checked the resistance and the ohms checked out at between 548-620. I have also checked to see if the fuel pump was receiving power, and both the pump and opposite side of the car sending unit were all receiving power. You can also see plenty of fuel being pushing through the pump into the gas line while the car is cranking. I then went and pulled 2 ecu's from a junkyard, both 1995 525's, they were both silver label ecu's, and I later realized mine was a red label. But I still swapped both of them in, and I did leave the battery unplugged for 15-20 minutes before unplugging each ecu. Even with the silver label ecu's, the car would not start, and I also was not getting any power to fuse #18 (fuel pump fuse) but I put the red label ecu back in, and I was getting power back to fuse #18. Btw ever since the night it broke down, I have not been able to get it to fire off of starting fluid, or rather since I swapped out the ecu's. I then did some research, and decided it would be a good idea to test my coils, I pulled all 6 coils and found that one of them was a bit off on the ohm reading (1.00) when it should be between .4-.8 but I also noticed that there was plenty of oil around the plugs down in the cylinders, so today I put in new plugs, (the old ones had gas on them) pretty strong smelling. So, this is where I am left now. I also unplugged my MAF just to see if it would start, and it still wouldn't, and I'm not sure this is a compression issue, but I don't feel much suction when the engine is cranking from the maf with the air box disconnected.

I could really use any input, as I have tried everything I have been able to find on the internet.
I purchased this car about a month ago, and I am very low on funds, (am 17, work at a grocery store, and start school in a week.

Please if you have any info.

Thank-You so much for your time.
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  #2  
Old 08-05-2012, 10:40 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 318is / 1993 325is
Welcome to the fest!

Cam position sensor and/or crank position sensor. If the ECU doesn't "see" the engine rotating it won't fire the plugs, and won't let the fuel pump run after the first few seconds.
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  #3  
Old 08-05-2012, 11:46 PM
boomtufo boomtufo is offline
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Mein Auto: 1993 325i
Thanks for the response!

And that seems very interesting, cause I read somewhere that if it is a bad camshaft sensor, the car will still start. And I tested the crankshaft position sensor and it cme back fine... Also the fuel pump will continue to pump fuel as king as the car is cranking... Not sure if this helps, but hopefully it will help diagnosing?


Thank-You so much for responding
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  #4  
Old 08-06-2012, 11:42 AM
mikes 535i mikes 535i is offline
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hi did you finaly resolve your no start issue?

I have the same no start issue but have not tried swapping the dme to another perhaps thats what i must do. Anyway, your plugs are wet because your flooding your chamber with gas. That happened to my working 1991 e34 sedan one morning i was in a rush and inadvertently flooded chambers from overzealously pumping gas pedal. I stalled engine shut off and immediately restarted to no avail. I then remember an article i read here that it must be that so i removed all plugs, it was very saturated and wiped each ends off -removed fuel pump fuse 23 and cranked engine to spew out all fuel in chambers. Did that twice btw then reinstalled everything and it started right away.

Going back with your flooded chambers check to see your oil level. if its excessively high then you may have mixed fuel with your oil from constasntly cranking engine without removing fuel pump fuse. Saturated oil will cause no compression and a no start issue - among other things... try to change your oil and plugs remove fuse to pump - if and when you have re-established spark.

Hope this helps
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  #5  
Old 08-06-2012, 12:33 PM
boomtufo boomtufo is offline
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Yeah, that's what I figured. But I need to check my dipstick to see if there is more oil than usual. But I did put in new plugs. So I might pull them all back out and dry crank the engine.
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  #6  
Old 08-06-2012, 08:26 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is online now
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if your new plugs are fouled with fuel, then you are getting injector pulse or have a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

also, use the correct plugs and not anything supper fancy. it's not necessary on our cars.



the fact that you were able to get it to run on starting fluid, though, makes me wonder.

did you run out of gas?? faulty guage sending unit??

do you have correct fuel pressure??

a fuel pump producing 10psi will 'run' in the tank and push some fuel through, but nowhere near enough to 'run' the engine.


that's what i would check first instead of throwing parts at it...



oh yeah, and welcome to the fest!!

df
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  #7  
Old 08-06-2012, 10:10 PM
boomtufo boomtufo is offline
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Thank-You all for your responses. I was especially waiting for you DF, I've read some of your other replies on other postings and you really know your stuff.

Now I don't think the new plugs are fouled, because I only tried cranking the engine about 4 times, and I didn't push the gas at all. I did that especially so I wouldn't foul the new ones.

Now, I'm thinking its possible that the night it broke down, the reason it started from starting fluid, is because I hadn't been applying very much gas to try and start it like I had been when I got it towed home and was trying various things for two days. Therefore the plugs likely would not have yet been fouled.

I'm thinking that I may have fixed my lack of fuel problem, but created another problem in the process.

What makes me wonder though, is that I contacted the previous owner, and he said he changed the pump about 6 months ago, and the pump does look pretty new, compared to the factory sending unit on the opposite side of the car. And I know the car has gas, because I put $20 worth of gas into it about 15 minutes before it died on me...

Also, I put denso plugs in, and gapped them at .33 because thats what most people said on the forums to gap them at. And the plugs were only $2.99 a bit more expensive than the factory bosch ones, but my shop didn't have the factory Bosch and I didn't exactly have 3 days haha.

And I have thought about testing my fuel pressure, but all the ways I've seen it done on my style of car, they unhook the fuel line from the pump and put on an inline pressure tester? The only one's I can find locally start at around $30, and I would still have to purchase more fuel line...

Does anyone know of a homemade or rigged up way to check the psi?

And btw, what exactly is a fuel pressure regulator? And where is it located? Any possible ways to test it?

I'm really sorry for all the questions guys, I just don't exactly have a lot of experience, especially in German cars.

My last car was a 1997 Camaro. And it is much different than this car.

Thank-You all so much for helping me out, and

Thanks for welcoming me to the Fest!

Hopefully I can help someone else out in the near future!
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  #8  
Old 08-06-2012, 11:42 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomtufo View Post
Now I don't think the new plugs are fouled, because I only tried cranking the engine about 4 times, and I didn't push the gas at all. I did that especially so I wouldn't foul the new ones.

Now, I'm thinking its possible that the night it broke down, the reason it started from starting fluid, is because I hadn't been applying very much gas to try and start it like I had been when I got it towed home and was trying various things for two days. Therefore the plugs likely would not have yet been fouled.
No amount of pressing the gas pedal would flood the car. It's fuel injected, and has no accelerator pump like a carburetor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by boomtufo View Post
Also, I put denso plugs in, and gapped them at .33 because thats what most people said on the forums to gap them at. And the plugs were only $2.99 a bit more expensive than the factory bosch ones, but my shop didn't have the factory Bosch and I didn't exactly have 3 days haha.
The Denso's should be fine. The gimmicky four prong and exotic metal plugs are the ones to stay away from.

Quote:
Originally Posted by boomtufo View Post
And I have thought about testing my fuel pressure, but all the ways I've seen it done on my style of car, they unhook the fuel line from the pump and put on an inline pressure tester? The only one's I can find locally start at around $30, and I would still have to purchase more fuel line...

Does anyone know of a homemade or rigged up way to check the psi?
Harbor Freight has a fuel pressure test kit complete with hoses, clamps, a tee fitting and adapters. It's on sale for $19.99 right now: http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-in...ter-92699.html


Quote:
Originally Posted by boomtufo View Post
And btw, what exactly is a fuel pressure regulator? And where is it located? Any possible ways to test it?
The fuel pressure regulator is on the end of the fuel rail opposite the fuel inlet. The test procedure is in the Bentley manual (which you can find in the "helpful links" sticky thread).

Quote:
Originally Posted by boomtufo View Post
I'm really sorry for all the questions guys, I just don't exactly have a lot of experience, especially in German cars.

My last car was a 1997 Camaro. And it is much different than this car.

Thank-You all so much for helping me out, and

Thanks for welcoming me to the Fest!

Hopefully I can help someone else out in the near future!
Don't worry about the questions. We were all there at one time Nothing to be ashamed of.
__________________
Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #9  
Old 08-07-2012, 04:24 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is online now
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Location: in the sticks you piney
 
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fuel pressure regulators are either on the rail, or under the chassis (like mine is).

if yo do not see a silvery round object at the end of the rail with a vacuum line on it, then look under the driver side of the car, it should be there.



df
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  #10  
Old 08-08-2012, 08:22 PM
boomtufo boomtufo is offline
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Mein Auto: 1993 325i
Ok, thank everyone. Well today I pulled the coils/plugs out, removed fuse #18 and fuel pump relay, and dry cycled it about 5 times for 15 seconds. I put everything back together, and it sounds like it really wants to start. I sprayed some starting fluid into the intake, and it fired right up but I still wasn't getting fuel. I now believe I have a bad fuel pressure regulator, and plan on changing that out tomorrow. I found that it is mounted onto the back of the fuel rail, does anyone know the easiest way to change it out? I feel like I can get to the top hose, but I can't see how it is mounted, and am wondering what all I have to remove to get to it.

Thank you all, I am much appreciative.
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