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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-23-2015, 07:53 PM
MUSCLEBOY's Avatar
MUSCLEBOY MUSCLEBOY is offline
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Help me..by Bolt has turned to Striper.

The top left bolt, or the longest one for that matter of the six that screw the oil filter housing into the block striped while trying to fasten. I don't know how this happened as i did not put much pressure on it...the other five are fine and fastened at the required 22Nm or 170 In Lb rate.

So what now? I noticed that the bolt is only 3.75 inches long with the bottom 1 inch being threaded. The bottom half of the 1 inch thread portion or 1/2 inc of the thread is flattened and that is where i found what appeared to be shavings from the engine block? I also calculated that with the bolt inserted into the filter housing there is still 3/4 of empty space between the bottom of the hole and the bottom of the bolt? Can this portion that the bolt does not reach also be threaded? If so, would i make sense to just buy a longer bolt of the same diamater or thread diamater for that and screw into that lower 3/4 inch of fresh tap....that is if it is tapped all the way to the bottom of the hole?

Any one know? I don't. I guess these things happen.

Thanks to all trying to help this poor sleprock.

Val

Last edited by MUSCLEBOY; Yesterday at 06:29 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-23-2015, 08:16 PM
Edge540 Edge540 is offline
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you will need to take it back apart and install a helicoil
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  #3  
Old 04-23-2015, 08:17 PM
wpg.Lawson wpg.Lawson is offline
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Did you try pressing on the gas pedal
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  #4  
Old 04-23-2015, 08:41 PM
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MUSCLEBOY MUSCLEBOY is offline
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well I don't know what the gas pedal has to do with anything at this point this baby aint going nowhere fast. Now i need to figure out how to correct this bolt issue. Thanks though.

Last edited by MUSCLEBOY; Yesterday at 06:22 AM.
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  #5  
Old 04-23-2015, 08:43 PM
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MUSCLEBOY MUSCLEBOY is offline
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Edge540, once again your to the rescue. Thanks for your suggestion and coming to my aid.

i'll definetly look into it. Pretty frustrating when this happens i guess. Val.

Last edited by MUSCLEBOY; Yesterday at 06:23 AM.
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  #6  
Old 04-23-2015, 08:50 PM
mss1 mss1 is offline
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Yes use a heli coil Click image for larger version

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  #7  
Old 04-23-2015, 08:52 PM
mss1 mss1 is offline
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Or a slightly bigger bold, and a tap to re-treat it.
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  #8  
Old 04-23-2015, 09:25 PM
wpg.Lawson wpg.Lawson is offline
Lawson
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Help me..by Bolt has turned to Striper.

Your car will run fine w/o the bolt. The oil filter housing isn't going to fly off and you don't have to worry about having oil leak from the hole where the bolt isn't there the serpentine would snap wayy before even budging the entire housing because of one bolt. Physically ur car would be it's a German 5 series after all, but if it helps you sleep at night I'd install one of those heli coils mentioned above. Some may disagree
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  #9  
Old Yesterday, 04:27 AM
uncmozo uncmozo is offline
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You have several options, as mentioned above.
1) You could leave it alone and let the other 5 bolts do the work. You would have to check for the small possibility of an oil leak, but you would probably be fine. If it leaks, you could remove the OFH, apply some gasket sealant (comes in a tube), and re-assemble and let the sealant dry.

2) You could go with a slightly longer bolt, but this may not work if the hole or thread isn't much deeper than the original bolt. You could also try getting what is called a 'bottom tap'. Most taps are tapered so the tap starts easily when cutting the threads. A bottom tap has very little taper, allowing the threads to be cut deeper in the hole. You could try tapping deeper with a bottom tap, then adding a longer bolt. Tap it by hand, and when you feel resistance, and you can no longer turn the tap, you have reached the bottom of the hole.

3) Go the heli-coil route mentioned above. This involves drilling the hole larger, to a specific size, to allow you to tap threads that are the same as the outside thread on the heli-coil. Then you insert the heli-coil. The inside threads of the heli-coil will be the same as the old threads you drilled away. These are available in kits that come with the tap and the coil. You would have to have the exact drill recommended for the tap. I would practice on a plain piece of scrap aluminum if you have never done this before.

Best of luck.

Jerry
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1995 525i 5 speed - sold at 225,000 miles
2002 530i 5 speed - 160,000 miles
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  #10  
Old Yesterday, 06:31 AM
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MUSCLEBOY MUSCLEBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mss1 View Post
Or a slightly bigger bold, and a tap to re-treat it.
Thanks mss1...i appreciate your support. I'll look into both options you are providing. Val.
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  #11  
Old Yesterday, 06:34 AM
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MUSCLEBOY MUSCLEBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpg.Lawson View Post
Your car will run fine w/o the bolt. The oil filter housing isn't going to fly off and you don't have to worry about having oil leak from the hole where the bolt isn't there the serpentine would snap wayy before even budging the entire housing because of one bolt. Physically ur car would be it's a German 5 series after all, but if it helps you sleep at night I'd install one of those heli coils mentioned above. Some may disagree
THanks wpg.Lawson for your support and suggestion. I was wondering how mandatory this top left bolt was if the other five were tightened down to specs. If i go the route of retapping...do i need to remove the filter housing, or can i tap through the 3.75 inch hole through the housing unit into the block? I just don't want to take it off after putting the new oil filter housing gasket on....i don't know if i will compromise this gasket by removing the housing after tightening it down already.
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  #12  
Old Yesterday, 06:40 AM
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MUSCLEBOY MUSCLEBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncmozo View Post
You have several options, as mentioned above.
1) You could leave it alone and let the other 5 bolts do the work. You would have to check for the small possibility of an oil leak, but you would probably be fine. If it leaks, you could remove the OFH, apply some gasket sealant (comes in a tube), and re-assemble and let the sealant dry.

2) You could go with a slightly longer bolt, but this may not work if the hole or thread isn't much deeper than the original bolt. You could also try getting what is called a 'bottom tap'. Most taps are tapered so the tap starts easily when cutting the threads. A bottom tap has very little taper, allowing the threads to be cut deeper in the hole. You could try tapping deeper with a bottom tap, then adding a longer bolt. Tap it by hand, and when you feel resistance, and you can no longer turn the tap, you have reached the bottom of the hole.

3) Go the heli-coil route mentioned above. This involves drilling the hole larger, to a specific size, to allow you to tap threads that are the same as the outside thread on the heli-coil. Then you insert the heli-coil. The inside threads of the heli-coil will be the same as the old threads you drilled away. These are available in kits that come with the tap and the coil. You would have to have the exact drill recommended for the tap. I would practice on a plain piece of scrap aluminum if you have never done this before.

Best of luck.

Jerry
Thanks Jerry.....as i noted on top...the hole is actually 3/4 inch deeper than the bolt when the bolt is inserted. I found this out when i placed a long screwdriver through the hole in the oil housing unit and marked with my thumb on the screwdriver when the screwdriver hit the bottom of the hole. Then i compared that to the lenght of the bolt.

Thus, to your point in number (2)....could i go with a longer bolt of the same thread size...perhaps a 4.25 inch bolt? That is....what do you think...is that additional and empty space not occupied by the original 3.75 inch bolt threaded as well? Mmmmmmhhh This would be the quickest and easiest solution.

Does any one know? I don't know.
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  #13  
Old Yesterday, 07:09 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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You probably have the aluminum block, thus the stripping issue.

In the DIY I posted all the bolt lengths:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=414315

If the other 5 bolts hold it well w/o oil leak, then you are fine.
The load is toward the engine block.

The longest bolt is M8X100 type. You may want to look into an SAE bolt with similar thread but a tad bigger. Maybe 11/32 (=8.7mm) bolt with similar thread spacing. Then just finger tight, then tug a bit with Loctite.



Photos below...




During operation the belt (RED) pulls the tensioner pulley toward the engine block (BLUE arrow), so even with 5 bolts, you are OK:

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  #14  
Old Yesterday, 07:12 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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If you decide to use the longer bolt, use a BBQ skewer to measure the depth to be absolutely sure the HOLE is deepr than the factory bolt.
Then buy the longer bolt.
Make sure the HOLE is free of shavings/debris before inserting the new bolt.
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