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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-16-2014, 03:37 PM
e36blackedout e36blackedout is offline
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Plasti Dip

Hi everyone! I just made an account today and I am in need of some experienced opinions. My dad just gave me his 1998 328is manual. It is all stock except for shift knob(stock one broke off last week). I want it blacked out and don't want to pay someone to do it so i want to know if I should plastidip the parts I want black(328is lettering, grill, and ring around emblems on both sides). If possible I also want to do some trim on the inside like around the stereo and stuff. Please give me your opinions. Thanks, patrick


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  #2  
Old 10-16-2014, 07:22 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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welcome to the fest.

there are a lot of you tube videos which go into detail on how to do the things you are wishing to do. i would start there.



good luck, and post up some pics of what you are doing.






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  #3  
Old 10-17-2014, 07:20 AM
maharaj1 maharaj1 is offline
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Some of the things you mentioned are suitable to use Plasti-Dip such as the grills and emblem and such For the interior pieces you might want to use trim paint or something of that nature because it will give you better coverage.
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  #4  
Old 10-17-2014, 10:10 AM
e36blackedout e36blackedout is offline
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Thanks man! I'm not too sure about the interior but I'll check out some trim paint if I want too.


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  #5  
Old 10-17-2014, 10:14 AM
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bliger7gz bliger7gz is offline
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You can use Duplicolor's Fabric and Vinyl paint on the interior (found it at Autozone, might find it at other auto parts stores), I used it and like the results, cheapest and easiest way to turn a tan interior to a black interior.

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I still have to do the door panels tho, but I'm buying another set so these will go into the trash, they're just beyond repair.
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  #6  
Old 10-17-2014, 10:15 AM
e36blackedout e36blackedout is offline
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Thanks man! I'll look into it.


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  #7  
Old 10-17-2014, 09:27 PM
cjhansen cjhansen is offline
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I've done extensive research into plastidip and love it. Take some time watching YouTube diy's as drivinfaster said. Clean and dry the surfaces properly and use the right spraying techniques and cure time. My first time I dipped my phone case, tablet and a tool box as test subjects to get a feel for the product. I've found Menards (a large building supply/ hardware company to have the best pricing (better than online) and selection of colors in my area. The only thing to be aware of (If applied correctly) is that some harsh chemicals can break it down. Like thinners, gasoline, brake cleaner even some tire shine products or bug and tar removers (bad for dipped rims and grilles). Also some high temp areas like rims (from the brakes ) have had bad effects on the dipped surface (I've heard of a couple rare cases), but I belive it was because they didn't let the dip cure long enough before using the wheels and heavy braking. Have fun with it, possibilities are endless for this stuff, I too will be doing some dipping on my recently aquired 328i before too long, possibly the whole car

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  #8  
Old 11-08-2014, 07:01 PM
angelkayye angelkayye is offline
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just did the rims...
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  #9  
Old 11-09-2014, 08:45 AM
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diptenkrom diptenkrom is offline
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if these are things that you want to BE black then paint them. if you aren't sure then plasti-dip is a good way to find out.

as far as the badges go, there is another cool alternative. the spray for tinting taillights, VHT NiteShades. if you layer it lightly, you can have black chrome which looks cool!

my experience with plasti-dip is people tend to leave it there, and if that is the case why not just paint to begin with?
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  #10  
Old 11-09-2014, 11:59 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Yeah, the ONLY reason to use plastidip is if you want the color to be temporary. Otherwise, it's not nearly as durable as a more traditional paint. That said, I used plastidip on my kidney grills and window shadowline trim, and it's been fine for a few years. It doesn't like high heat or harsh chemicals, though, so putting plastidip on wheels is not the best idea.
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2014, 11:36 PM
cjhansen cjhansen is offline
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Why do you say it's not as durable? In my experience, that would only refer to its resistance to harsh chemicals or high heat. Otherwise I belive the actual product is more durable than paint, unless you're referring to is adhesion (which is kind of the idea of plastidip). It protects from scratches, scuffs, chips, pitting, and seals out moisture or anything that can cause rust or corrosion, all while protecting the oem surface. Just to name a few things it does better that paint. But it's really just whatever you prefer. To maintain oem finishes and have no risk of messing something up, Plastidip. If you're not worried about that and want a more permanent solution, paint.

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  #12  
Old 11-10-2014, 01:34 AM
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Engel12626 Engel12626 is offline
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The previous owner plastidipped the wheels sometime, and I've had the car for 3 years. So this is what 4 or 5 years of use will look like.



It's pretty durable IMO. The only cleaning I've done is running the car through an automatic car wash.

Edit: Here's a good tip, if you ever want to remove it make sure you spray it on thick! I tried to peel it off my wheels a few months back and it was hell, whoever put it on did some light coats. I gave up after spending a couple hours on one wheel, so I just sprayed it back on so it matched the others.
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Last edited by Engel12626; 11-10-2014 at 01:50 AM.
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  #13  
Old 11-10-2014, 07:52 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Originally Posted by cjhansen View Post
Why do you say it's not as durable?
Because it's essentially spray-on rubber, and is designed to be removable. I define "durability" by how difficult something is to remove. Paint is obviously much more difficult to remove, thus it is also much more durable. Plastidip also gets very soft in the sun, making it a lot more susceptible to being damaged.
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  #14  
Old 11-10-2014, 12:40 PM
cjhansen cjhansen is offline
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I see your point. Good to be aware of it getting soft in sun. I will keep an eye on that, but my last cars wheels saw some serious heat from a few track days (my rotors got red hot and they warped lol). As well as dd abuse and harsh iowa winters. The dip was 5 black thick coats and it held up great, and still looked great after 2 years when i got rid of it. Speaking of that Engel you could just add more coats to yours then it would peel off nicely if you ever decided to, as well as hold up much better I would think.

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  #15  
Old 11-10-2014, 10:52 PM
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Engel12626 Engel12626 is offline
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Originally Posted by cjhansen View Post
... Speaking of that Engel you could just add more coats to yours then it would peel off nicely if you ever decided to, as well as hold up much better I would think.
Thought about trying that. Those are my summer wheels, so I'll probably try again afrer I put my winter steelies on for the season. Or I'll just buy that media blaster I've been eyeing for a couple years
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  #16  
Old 11-10-2014, 11:02 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Wheel paint is insanely difficult to remove. You'd probably have to media blast them for ages to get it all off. Acid dipping is pretty much the only way to go with painted wheels.
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  #17  
Old 02-04-2015, 02:36 PM
Slimthvg Slimthvg is offline
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Plasti Dip

I used plastidip on my rims and emblem just a few days ago. I think it turned out great! Click image for larger version

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I also used glossifier on the rims and I think it looks a lot better than matte by itself. it was my first time using plastidip .. Super easy.

Sorry for the ****ty phone pics haha.

Last edited by Slimthvg; 02-04-2015 at 02:37 PM.
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