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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-21-2014, 05:22 PM
Pete_360 Pete_360 is offline
Carbzy
Location: Canberra
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: E36 Conv, Ferrari 360,R33
Smile Convertible E36 1JZ Conversion

Hey Guys, so this is my first tech post on this forum,

I would like to show you all what I have done to my BMA. This is my first attempt at an engine conversion, I’m not a mechanic I’m an IT geek who loves cars.lol

I have a 1995 328i e36 Auto convertible, I have owned the car since 2007 and at one stage was my daily driver then turned show car and now my show and go car.

I have gone through a lot with this car, it was a dark blood orange with a gold pearl when purchased but stock in all other ways.

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I initially put on the genuine m3 body kit and then tweaked the stereo followed by the full white trim, and to top it off a big set of chrome 20inch wheels and a custom one off white soft top. I then got my car featured in HOT4s in 2010.
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(Pic from the shoot)

In 2011 my car was vandalised to an inch of its life, almost every panel damaged and every light and window also. This resulted in a full rebuild replacing every part and putting it back together in 2012.

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A few new features of the car was a new House of Colour sunset pearl orange with a gold zeralic paint job, new white roof, customs Celica gt4 bonnet scoop, shaved Arial and quarter join lines and m3 side strips.

I enjoyed the car for a couple months before getting a new toy and then this became old news.

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It sat at my folk’s house for about 18months not being moved and then finally decided to drive it again in January 2014. Felt awesome made me feel 19 again, this however was again short lived cos I parked it in the garage and other cars took priority.

After attending Power cruise in March 2014 for the first time, I made my mind up that I wanted a car to bring to power cruise, this ultimately led me to the decision of exchanging my bmw engine with something more powerful.

The research begun, Barra?, LS1?, RB25/26 or 1/2J? After a week of trying to make my mind up I finally agreed that the most cost effective conversion would be to do a 1jz, so I began immediately to look for a Toyota Soarer.
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  #2  
Old 07-21-2014, 05:31 PM
Pete_360 Pete_360 is offline
Carbzy
Location: Canberra
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: E36 Conv, Ferrari 360,R33
On the 7th of April I found a nice Soarer with a single turbo conversion already done the only thing was the Auto Trans had lost reverse. I picked it up on the 9th and that was the start of it all.
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On the 13th I started to pull the bma apart. I ordered a second hand built Auto for the 1jz and received that on the 17th. I had the engine out of the bmw on the 20th and then the 1jz out on the 22nd.

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I ordered my engine mounts from KSracing in Thailand
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I then started to order all the bits I thought I would like and need.
Plugs, belts, cam gears, polished reservoirs, ratchet shifter, fuel pressure reg, oil filter, fluids, vacuum lines, wires, intake manifold, heat wrap, power steering line, radiator hoses, trans service kit, Timing belt kit, relays and a bunch of other random bits and pieces.

I got my engine mounts and tested the fit, it was not good the turbo manifold was custom built and had tuned length runners so the pipe got in the way of where the mount would need to sit. So I chopped the mount up and made it fit.
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(I didn’t leave it like this, I did reinforce it.)

Now with that done I removed the old box and mounted the new one after doing the service on it.
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The test fit then came, it was a little hard to get in at first but we got it in, and it looked cool.

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I had planned on changing the intake manifold but after removing the old one and seeing the width of the new one it was apparent it would hit my strut tower so that was sold and then returned back to the original intake. The next hiccup was the dump pipe. It had the waste gate plumbed in and it was in the way of steering arm, I flipped the steering arm but was no help it needed to be cut and shortened. A mate of mine done this for me and then we were full steam ahead.
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  #3  
Old 07-21-2014, 05:39 PM
Pete_360 Pete_360 is offline
Carbzy
Location: Canberra
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: E36 Conv, Ferrari 360,R33
Cool Continued

Before I put the engine in I wanted to do some paint work, it was sunny in good old Canberra on the 5th of May so this is when I painted the engine bay, radiator support and rocker covers.

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I then installed my stealth B&M ratchet shifter, I had to bash the tunnel down a bit because I wanted it to sit below the trim so it would look neat. I got it sitting perfect and then I made the brackets on the gearbox side to support the cable. I sat and adjusted it all before the engine and box was installed.

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On the 18th I mounted the engine in 1 last time, I started to bolt and connect key components.

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Then identified that the gearbox cross member that was supplied from KSracing was rubbish and did not suit the A340E gearbox.

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So I used a small part of the original and welded a whole new bit of steel. I measured it up and made all the appropriate cuts and drills and it worked perfect.

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  #4  
Old 07-21-2014, 05:57 PM
Pete_360 Pete_360 is offline
Carbzy
Location: Canberra
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: E36 Conv, Ferrari 360,R33
Still Going

On the 19th I started the FUN STUFF, the wire up!! Woooohooooo, this was exciting, months of reading and reading forums of people who have done the conversion but not willing to share the info made me more determined to work it out so I could post it all up on here for people to use!!

I had the car started for the first time on the 19th, I started the engine with only the earths to the ecu, power to the injectors, power to the fuel pump and the main and starter relays connected. See the Vid:
http://vid1265.photobucket.com/album...psaeaf6733.mp4

I got an X20 plug and factory bmw relay holders from a wrecking yard, this provided me with everything I needed to get this show on the road!


What pins I needed:
Pin – Function
8 – Check Engine light
10 – Reverse lights (Manual Only, This is controlled at the shifter on the Auto)
11 & 12 – Temp sensor
13 – Fuel Pump
15 – Starter
19 – Service reset
20 - RPM
21 – Ignition switch
23 – Oil Pressure switch
24 – Fuel Consumption Gauge
25 – Alternator Light

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Firstly I wired up my Main Relay. I done this by Placing 12v to pin 30, Ground to pin 85, Trigger from 21 for ignition to pin 86 and then pin 87 connected to the Switched power pin 3 on the Soarer body plug (90980-10841)

Secondly I wired up the starter relay I done this by using the main relays output from pin 87 to power pin 30 on the starter relay, then grounded pin 85, trigger from 15 for pin 86 and then connected pin 87 to the starter pin 1 on the Soarer Body Plug (90980-10841)

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I wanted to run all 3 relays for ignition, starter and fuel where the original relays sit next to the fuse box however I could not run a normal relay for the fuel pump because I could not get the signal from the Soarer ECU to work for the fuel pump. The soarer runs a fuel pump ECU and I did not have this.

So I wired in a GAS relay, this primes for a few seconds to help start and then uses an ignition coil signal to keep the relay working whilst the engine is running. This will also stop the fuel pump if the engine stalls.

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I wired this up as per the diagram provided, it was simple, needed ground, ACC 12v, ignition coil signal and x20- pin 13 for the fuel pump.


Now I needed to wire in the Alternator, the big wire I ran directly to the positive terminal in the engine bay, then I traced the 3 wires from the alternator pug and wired 3 (IG) to ignition power, 2 (L) to the warning light (x20- pin 25) and 1 (S) to constant 12v via a 7.5a fuse and through the Soarer Body Plug (90980-10841) Pin 2.

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With that done I wired x20-pin 11/12 to a BMW temp sensor tapped into the 1jz neck

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I wired the oil pressure light from the 1jz to the x20-pin 23 and 1 injector negative pulse to x20-pin 24. Everyone has said you cannot get the Litre pre 100 gauge to work after this conversion, I proved them wrong. I have the on-board computer in my car so I wanted that to work.
I connected x20-pin 20 to the IGF pin on the ECU for my RPM.

I now have all my gauges and dash lights working like factory.

With that done all I needed was a few wires to the ECU to get it running. To see a good set of pin outs for the JZZ30 got to this link http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...JZZ30%20soarer

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I needed Constant 12v to the ECU and achieved this through pin 4 on the Soarer Body Plug (90980-10897). This gives constant 12v to the BATT pin on the ECU.

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I already had power to the +B1 and +B pins due to wiring the main relay (Shown Above) through pin 3 on the Soarer body plug (90980-10841) however I needed to tap the IGSW pin into this also.

I Wired E1, E2, EO1 and EO2 all to ground,

I also needed constant 12v to the injectors as the ECU toggles the grounds to make them work. The easiest way to do this was from Body Plug (90980 – 10813) Join Pin 7 and 3 to the power pin 12.

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The STA and NSW pins caused me a lot of heartache, it caused me to pull the intake off 3 times, and replace almost every sensor and module because without the STA pin connected to ground the engine would run in limp mode and would not rev much past 4000rpm.

As soon at the STA pin was grounded it rectified my problem. Note the factory way to connect this is through the Starter trigger wire because this grounds through the starter coil and then On start up the ecu sees power to the STA pin and helps start the engine, however I have mine constantly grounded and it starts just fine.

For some reason my Check engine light didn't work through the x20 plug so I ran a wire from the ecu to the cluster and connected it directly to the check engine light.

I relocated the ecu into the glove box, I did not want to cut the loom and put it in the factory bmw spot so I made a hole in the firewall and put the loom through, looks much neater and make it a lot easier to wire things up from inside the car.

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The BMW heater tap had to be relocated and hoses were sourced from supercheap to connect everything up. You need to cut down the heater matrix ends a little in order to have enough room.

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By the 29th of May I had replaced the timing belt, tensioners, crank and cam seals and installed the adjustable cam gears.

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By the 31st I had the Brackets for the radiator made up and modification of intercooler piping. by the 8th of June the intercooler and radiator were plumbed, I also replaced all the vacuum lines and installed the power steering reservoir, window washer reservoir, auto trans cooler and tail shaft.

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The tail shaft was custom made from M&A Engineering, they made it in less than 2 days, 3 inch single piece with a new yoke from the Supra (R154 and A340E have the same Yoke) and the rear flange to the diff was from a 350z, the spigot was slightly bigger so it needed to be machined down to match the bmw and the holes needed to be slightly elongated. This fitted in like it was factory.

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The pressure Power steering hose was ordered from the states, it was a universal one that I had to get some adaptors to fit the bmw side, works a charm and cost about 80 bucks all up. This was also done by the 8th

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The 8th was a busy day, I had the whole front end back together and for the first time in months it moved under its own power. It was apparent from the first spin I had something wrong as it would just not boost and it would just cough and carry on.

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I replaced the intake manifold gaskets thinking that was the issue because I did have a slight leak, installed the fuel pressure reg in case it was that and also a 255lph fuel pump. Also changed the MAP sensor, Injectors, Igniter box, 2 sets of plugs, a replacement fuel rail, and intake manifold.

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It wasn't till the 4th of the July when I found the root cause of my problem to be the STA pin with the help from the guys from Ultimate Tunes.

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After sorting the whole STA pin debacle on the 7th I got the car tuned, I ran the standard ECU with a mod box attached, apparently this has boost/fuel cut removed and speed cut. Not sure what else.

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The car was tuned well within safe levels at a boost pressure 13.5PSI, it made 220rwkw. At this stage I did not have the exhaust done, it was running almost stock bmw from the cat back.

After it got tuned, I sat down and cleaned everything up and put everything back together. I also wired in my shift indicator, and installed my oil catch can and coolant reservoir. Note - I have installed all the level sensors on my washer and coolant reservoirs for the on-board computer.

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I was not happy with the Exhaust and a good mate of mine had given me one of those Varex remote mufflers, so I organised to get the system upgraded.

It is now 3inch all the way through with the remote muffler. This was only done the other day (18th) and my god I was not expecting so much of a change. The exhaust sounds insane yet I can make it nice and quiet but dam the performance increase! I could feel the difference from the first take off.

So well this is it, I still have a few things to do like the Rear coilovers, manualising the Auto, new brakes and rotors, alloy radiator and a few cosmetic touch-ups but she is pretty much there. I love the 1JZ and I love how my car goes I could not be happier with the end result.
These are the diagrams for manualising the Auto, I also have some documents for the JZA70 ECU.




I do apologize for my hand writing, this is why I love typing, if you can't understand anything I'm happy to provide you guys with any assistance.

Last edited by Pete_360; 07-21-2014 at 06:15 PM.
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  #5  
Old 07-21-2014, 06:01 PM
Pete_360 Pete_360 is offline
Carbzy
Location: Canberra
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: E36 Conv, Ferrari 360,R33
Some Wiring Info for a Manual Auto

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  #6  
Old 07-21-2014, 06:03 PM
Pete_360 Pete_360 is offline
Carbzy
Location: Canberra
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: E36 Conv, Ferrari 360,R33
Jza70 ecu

This is what I have gathered for the JZA70 ECU wiring.

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  #7  
Old 07-21-2014, 06:13 PM
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jonesin jonesin is offline
The Canadian Prick.
Location: Fort McMurray AB
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 12,526
Mein Auto: '96 328is Cosmos
You've put a lot of high quality workmanship into your car and I can respect that.

Ed
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

HAS KEN HAD HIS MEDS YET?
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  #8  
Old 07-21-2014, 06:17 PM
Starbursty2122 Starbursty2122 is offline
Registered User
Location: New Hampshire
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 66
Mein Auto: 1997 318ti
While it does look like a pimp mobile you have certainly shown your ability to put quality time and effort into your car and I for one can approve!
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  #9  
Old 07-21-2014, 06:30 PM
Pete_360 Pete_360 is offline
Carbzy
Location: Canberra
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: E36 Conv, Ferrari 360,R33
Thanks Guys, I totally understand the physical appearance isn't everyone's cup of tea, im just hoping you can look past that and see what I have done. This is the first time I have ever attempted something like this so im pretty proud of my efforts. I also hope the wiring info provided will help others out also.
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  #10  
Old 07-21-2014, 07:33 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
Warm Leatherette
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,449
Mein Auto: 1998 BMW 328is
Style wise, I wouldn't be caught dead in that car, but it's immediately evident that the workmanship that has gone into it is excellent. For that, you deserve very high praise. Good work is good work, regardless of the theme or style. Well done! Your ambition with this project deserves respect.
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #11  
Old Yesterday, 07:34 AM
jkpgt96 jkpgt96 is offline
Non-Natural Aspirations
Location: St. Louis, MO
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5
Mein Auto: '95 M3
Well done!! Again, thank you for sharing the wiring info for this swap..it is seemingly the part that no one else wants to share!
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  #12  
Old Yesterday, 09:39 AM
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bliger7gz bliger7gz is offline
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Location: Plainfield, NJ
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 429
Mein Auto: 1994 BMW 325is
Convertible E36 1JZ Conversion

As some of the other guys, the style doesn't catch my eye nor do I like it, so let's just leave it there otherwise I'll start hating on your car LOL.

Now, as far as the swap and wiring work, hats off to you man, great job. Well done and very clean build you got there.
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  #13  
Old Yesterday, 04:24 PM
Pete_360 Pete_360 is offline
Carbzy
Location: Canberra
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Mein Auto: E36 Conv, Ferrari 360,R33
Talking Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkpgt96 View Post
Well done!! Again, thank you for sharing the wiring info for this swap..it is seemingly the part that no one else wants to share!
I would seem that everyone else who has dose this conversion will not give you any info on the wiring. This is why I made my own so I could share it, I thought that was the point of these forums to share info not hoard it.
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