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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #26  
Old 08-21-2012, 01:27 PM
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Orient330iNYC Orient330iNYC is online now
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Location: Wall St
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 7,056
Mein Auto: Daihatsu Terrios
Quote:
Originally Posted by anE934fun View Post
What about going to a higher capacity AGM battery? Same technology (AGM) as the stock battery, but deep cycle vs std. (non-deep) cycle? I am thinking about a deep cycle AGM battery (like an Optima Yellow top) as a future replacement when the factory battery goes permanently on holiday.
nope, as long as its the same type its fine regardless of the capacity.
the charging circuit stops when the battery is at 12.6v, it will just take longer to get there with a larger capacity one
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  #27  
Old 08-22-2012, 01:33 PM
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SD Z4MR SD Z4MR is offline
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Location: San Diego, CA
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,258
Mein Auto: '06 Z4 MR | '11 335is E92
Quote:
Originally Posted by haskindm View Post
Hereís another option: these are Smart Jumper Cables from Michelin. Now, the first thing that youíll notice about these is that thereís this big box in the middle of the cables. This is a module-itís a smart module. Next thing youíll notice is that all four cable ends are blue. So, hereís the drill: you start with the car that is running-has the good battery. You hook up two of the cable ends, doesnít make any difference which way you hook them up because polarity is going to be controlled inside the module. Then you come over to the car with the dead battery, you take one of the remaining ends and hook it to the positive battery cable. Now you never hook booster cables-both of them-on the car with the dead battery, right to the battery. You always connect the last connection-the ground connection-to a good clean metal surface on the engine, not to the body because that can lead to its own set of problems. So, just make sure youíre connecting it to something that doesnít move, and youíve got a good connection.

Alright, you can also tell by looking at the module because the module has two warning lights on it. Theyíre both lit, then everything is good to go. If one of them isnít, then you wiggle the cable ends around until you get a good connection. Both lights are lit-wait a couple of minutes, start the car with the dead battery and disconnect the cables. And no, you donít have to worry about the surge, because this module has a built-in surge protector that protects both vehicles against that deadly voltage surge.
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13746_7-20063320-48.html
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  #28  
Old 08-25-2012, 12:35 PM
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BB_cuda BB_cuda is offline
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Location: Clear Lake, Texas
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 657
Mein Auto: 2011 335D Msport
Guess i was careful and lucky

I have an older project car that the battery went dead on. I needed to jump and normally use my 2003 dodge truck for this. It happened to be a time when the 335D was nose to nose with the project car and it was starting to rain. So, I jumped using old school cables. I was very careful and methodic to get good strong bites with the jaws like connections. These slipping and touching is where i can see catastophy happening. Jumped off just fine and no drama for me.

After reading this, I will stick with the Dodge as the jumper although its a 2003 so it has a fair bit of electronics too. I'm thinking if you get a short in the wrong place it's not just high end cars that will get disabled. Now, the 67 cuda I'm sure you couldn't hurt provided you didn't catch the harness on fire. This last car is where my forum alias comes from
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