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The Detail Department
Detailing tips, tricks to keep your bimmer in showroom condition.

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  #1  
Old 04-25-2015, 12:17 PM
Nik1977 Nik1977 is offline
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Location: San Ramon, CA
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 750li F01
Just recieved detailing supplies.... Clay first or Iron out?

Just received my detailing supplies and had a question as to whats first after a wash...Start with Clay (meguiers) or Iron out spray first?

Supplies ordered
Griots 6" and 3" Orbital with pads.... Is one type of pad enough? Got 3 pads, 1 color of each

Griots polishes and carnauba wax

sonax wheel cleaner which I probably wont use, wheels were waxed when new and kept clean always
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2015, 03:17 PM
CGP CGP is offline
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Mein Auto: f10 550i
Use the Iron Out and then clay. Here is a good overview on how to prepare a car for polish:http://www.autoobsessed.com/detailin...o-coating.html

When you are using the polish it is important to use the right pad to ensure you are getting the right "cut" at the right stage. Use a orange pad for stage one. Use the black pad to finish.
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2015, 03:53 PM
Nik1977 Nik1977 is offline
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Location: San Ramon, CA
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 750li F01
Thanks for the tip. Got the iron out on, rinsed it and ran the nanoskin pad over vehicle main parts.

The problem now is with the griots polisher and polish. Started from the trunklid. Tried #3 then #2, the vehicle is a 3 year old alpine white, very clean but at angles has fine scratches.

I applied a decent amount to orange pad, ran it over the surface of trunk in the pattern up/down then sideway. Hard to remove with the microfiber towels, seems like I have to really scrub it off. Then the scratches are still visable also.

What could I be doing wrong.

Also hard to see the scratches that i need to work on, as car doesnt directly sit under garage light.
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  #4  
Old 04-25-2015, 05:05 PM
CGP CGP is offline
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It is hard to say from here - sorry you are finding it a bit frustrating. Are you using the 6 inch or the 3 inch polisher? The 3 inch will not have enough torque.

I have not used Griots polish but I would think the #2 is sufficient to remove swirls. Did you condition the pad before you used? Perhaps you are not using enough product - although you do not need too much if your pad is conditioned.

You should not have to scrub to take the polish off. In fact if you are scrubbing you are likely inducing scratches. Spray with a quick detailer if it is that had to get off.

Finally don't go too fast. The pad does need some time to do its work. Here is a link that is realy good on how to polish. It is time consuming but should not be too difficult.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-phillips.html
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  #5  
Old 04-25-2015, 08:03 PM
Nik1977 Nik1977 is offline
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Location: San Ramon, CA
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 750li F01
I was using the 6" for the trunk lid. What is conditioning the pad? I just applied enough I guess and added more like 3 times just for trunk area.

After I finally got the polish off and didnt see much improvement and felt like giving up, I took a shortcut, grabbed a old bottle of liquid type Glaze, out it on with microfiber and took off with microfiber. Gave me a nice clean car and all, but I know it wont last. The glaze with soon be gone, and I still have $500+ on supplies that I need to figure out to polish and wax with.
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  #6  
Old 04-25-2015, 11:38 PM
CGP CGP is offline
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I know it can be frustrating but it does take some time to figure it all out. Dont forget that if you are using #2 it likely requires a two stage process. Number 2 should be heavy enough to remove the swirls but it will also create micro swirls on the paint. While I have not use Griots, I think the #2 is supposed to be followed up by #3 or #4.

If the Groits is not working for you, you may want to try a different polish compo. I have used the Groits 6 inch with Menzerna power finish on an orange pad followed by Menzerna super finish on a black pad and it worked fine. I certainly did not have to scrub the paint to remove the polish - it wipes off easily with a micro fiber.

You may also want to try the Meguires 105 followed by 205. I have not used but I know many people are happy with the combo.

The attached answers you question about conditioning the pad. http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ars-m105-m205/

Sorry your first experience was not great. Perhaps try different products - Menzerna is great. Detailing and keeping you car in great condition should be enjoyable and rewarding not frustrating!
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  #7  
Old 04-27-2015, 05:42 AM
crazy4trains crazy4trains is offline
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The Meguiars 105 and 205 works well. I am using a cheap Harbor Freight dual action polisher with their (even more cheap) orange and blue pads. I got excellent results on my trunk lid (Oxford Green Metallic) but it took awhile. My understanding is that Megs 105 and 205 are not that aggressive and therefore require multiple passes. I was leary on my first tries so I didn't use much pressure. Results are easy to see on the dark green, somewhat more difficult on white. For me it was a very time consuming process as i needed multiple passes to remove all the swirls, but I did get there. Next time i will buy good pads as the cheap HF pads started to deteriorate quickly. I think that will make it go quicker.

It was so time consuming for me that I only did the trunk lid and hood. I stopped after that. Before I tackle the rest of the car I need new pads and some more patience.
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  #8  
Old 04-27-2015, 06:37 AM
dmatre dmatre is offline
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You may have used too much product and not worked it enough. You say it was hard to remove, which means that there was a lot of product left. This means you likely made a couple of passes and then wiped to check your results.

I've used the Griots polishes, and have found them to be quite safe, but lacking in real 'bite'.

That said, they will still produce good results, you just need more work to achieve them.

First, don't over apply the product. Use a small amount (check YouTube for some good tutorials, check Autopia.org for good advice), and work the polish until there is almost nothing left. It takes a lot more than 2-3 passes to break down the polish and to even the paint surface.

Also, be realistic about what you can achieve. If the scratch is rather deep (even if not to primer), you may consider not trying to remove it completely. Remember, when you polish a a scratch out, what you are actually doing is abrading the paint in the surrounding area down to the level of the bottom of the scratch. Do this too much and you run out of clear coat - then things get real expensive to fix.

The Griots won't let you reach this point without a lot of effort (if ever), but you should know that it's not always possible to reach perfection - so read, learn, and good luck.
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  #9  
Old 04-27-2015, 09:01 PM
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BigDeep1 BigDeep1 is offline
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Great information guys. Kuddos in helping and encouraging a fellow enthusiast.
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  #10  
Old 05-02-2015, 08:08 AM
Haunted House Haunted House is offline
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Location: Bergen county
 
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Mein Auto: 2006 Mazda 6 3.0L V6
The outpouring of help is always a reassuring thing, but I'm getting a headache seeing this interplay knowing that The only way this gentleman is going to learn how to properly detailwould be to spend hours pouring over videos online (preferably ones by Mike Phillips of autogeek.net) OR hire a pro that will take care of the car while teaching him some very important tips. Get someone to come to your house and machine polish your car…. The information is invaluable…. You see, Detailing to me has never been about technique alone, but more like technique driven by heart. By heart I mean, Really possessing a strong desire to return its beauty at any cost not lettinKklg anything get in your way. This means rain or shine, doing your homework going out and getting yourself a junkyard panel to test your skills.

There really isn't any instruction manual for doing this kind of stuff and the liability factor is too high…. Damaging the paint can happen in the blink of an eye.

I've worked with a few clients…. So I'm just wanted some select info on products... Others wanted instruction on how to hold the rotary polisher because they thought that was the badass tool not for wimps! Ha! Gotta love it. I'm not really sure how badass it is but it is untouchable when it comes to paint correction. Nothing cuts quicker than a rotary. The dual action polishers were designed so do-it-yourselfers could polish their cars without running the risk of damaging the paint.

There were produced as a safety measure not to enhance performance.. Don't get me wrong the Rupes Bigfoot d/a is very effective.

Well anyway hope this helps and if you're in Jersey get in touch with me.

Last edited by Haunted House; 05-02-2015 at 08:10 AM.
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