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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
Discussion of BMW's 4th generation E65/E66 7 Series flagship. The E65 generated much controversy, due to its radical styling and iDrive user difficulties. Nonetheless, the E65 broke records to become the best-selling 7-series iteration ever, especially after its 2005 facelift.

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  #1  
Old 02-04-2016, 01:49 AM
ProMotorSports ProMotorSports is offline
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Location: Dracut, Ma
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 24
Mein Auto: 2006 BMW 750Li
Tips on replacing guibo!

I recently changed the guibo/flexdisc/ujoint on my 2006 bmw 750Li. Has 159k and i was getting the 2-1 downshift clunk. Sadly the problem still exist after changing it but it did soften the kick forward a little bit. Next ill do a tranny pan+filter, sealing sleeve and fluids and hopfully that fix's it. But as far as changing the guibo its not that bad an is a diy. I followed a video on youtube by DIYsavecash https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=PL9...&v=QVO9Bk6kBCU
it was very detailed and easy to follow!, I know its been covered in alot of threads but i did it a litttle differently and i believe it will save you some time.

Step 1: Get the car level on jackstands or a lift would make it alot easier but i used jackstands.

Step 2: Remove the plastic sheilds under nealth on the drivers and passengers side i beleive it was a bunch of 8mm screws on the inside and 10mm nuts on the outter side.

Step 3: Once those are dropped you can proceed to removing your exhaust, there is four bolts (two on each side) up front by the cats, mine were extremely corrored!! I sparyed them with liquid wrench and let them sot for a few mins and cracked three loose with vise grips, the last one i took a flat head and tapped the end with a hammer in the direction to loosen it and finally got them off. After that theres a few more bolts you have to remove which you'll see in the video, once all the bolts are removed your ready to drop the exhaust, it would be nice to have a helper help you lower it but i did it by placing a jack with a board across it under the tailend, and pushing forward from the front to release it from the through bolts, then rested my end down, went around and lowered the jack.

Step 4: Remove the exhaust heat sheilds.

Step 5: Every post i seen at this point people used a inverted torx at the rear of the driveshaft and took out all the bolts so they could eventually drop the whole drive shaft out once they removed the bolts in the front, i did experienced the same problem as the guy in the video did which was not being able to get that drive shaft to budge. Im not sure if its common, and i know its the correct way to do it be you really dont need to drop the drive shaft and i wish i didnt waste my time trying. Leave all the bolts in and just remove the two bolts holding the center bearing.

Step 6: Next is removing the the front of the driveshaft, there are six bolts with nuts on the end holding it in, some people remove the tranny mount DONT theres no need, there are two holes that allow you to get a wrench up there and hold the nut while your rachet the bolt out from the front. This is what made my process alot eaiser that i didnt see on anyones post, instead have the driveshaft stuck in one place and trying to get your wrench to all the bolts, take your key and push the silver knob button at the top to release your actual key and right next to your obd port on the drivers side theres a little slot you put your key in amd turn which will drop a little rope type of thing that you pull which puts the car in neutral. That way you dont have to keep starting your car with the exhaust off and changing it from neutral to park 6 times to move the drive shaft. I was able to leave it in neutral and crack all the silver bolts not problem, but when i tried the black bolts i coulnt with the driveshaft free spining, so put the cars parking brake on that way the cars sill in neutral but the drive shaft and stuck so u can crack a bolt, take the brake off move it, reapply the brake and crack it three times till you have all the bolts out.

Step 7: At this point you should be able to put the drive shaft back enough to remove the guibo with plenty of room. (Mine wouldnt pull back at first because the guibo was stuck, just take a flat head and pry it out if that happens took maybe 10 seconds) take notice of which way the gubio comes out i remember there were three notches i wanna say point towards the front which is how i could tell which way to put the new on back in.

Step 8: Reasemble only took my about 45 mins by myself the exhaust was kind of a pain but not to bad again a helper would make it 10x easier.

Hope this helps someone and saves them sometime!
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  #2  
Old 02-07-2016, 07:19 AM
chamilun chamilun is offline
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Location: TN
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 336
Mein Auto: 2008 535 ix
i took mine to an exhaust shop. $125 +-
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2016, 02:58 AM
mathat mathat is offline
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Location: norfolk
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 93
Mein Auto: 730d
I did mine much the same last year - seems strange to remove the prop when as you say remove the middle and it drops enough - did you replace the bearing in the end of the prop? I didn't but they recommend you do (even though I only read there was on after doing the job) + I still haven't got around to resetting the gearbox adaptation through INPA as I am too worried about resetting the wrong parts and wrecking the gearbox! - anyway my doughnut had loads of play in it but changing it did not make any difference!
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Old 04-04-2017, 02:25 PM
mikey524 mikey524 is offline
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Location: New York
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 88
Mein Auto: 2007 750Li
Thanks for the info! Hopefully this does the trick for my 7
__________________

2007 750LI 62k
Tints all around
Sport Package
22x9 Front / 22x10 Rear
10" JL W7 in H.O. box
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  #5  
Old 04-08-2017, 03:07 PM
FatBoy613 FatBoy613 is online now
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Location: Ontario, Canada
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 151
Mein Auto: 2004 745i
How did you reset the transmission? Through the pedal method, or through INPA? I'm not a professional or anything, but I would guess that a reset through INPA would be much more effective in reducing the clunk
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