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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 09-05-2012, 07:18 PM
Lucas1215 Lucas1215 is offline
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Location: North hills california
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 18
Mein Auto: 2000 bmw z3 roadster 2.3
2000 z3 2.5 automatic tranny service

Anyone knows a bmw specialist who does transmission fluid change here in california? My car has 118,ooo miles and i just wanna dump the old fluid... Thanks
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  #2  
Old 09-05-2012, 07:35 PM
Wertles Wertles is online now
Yoda with a library card
Location: Rochester, NY
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 198
Mein Auto: 1999 M Coupe
There is no need for a specialist. This is an easy DIY project. The kit is about $90 IIRC from thebmwstore.com and about 5 quarts of ATF. If you can find someone to do it for $150 or less, go for it. Any more, it's worth your time and money to do it ourself. If you are interested in tackling this yourself, let me know. I'll walk you through it.
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1999 Boston Green M Coupe
2002 Z3 2.5 Automatic Roadster
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually, 850 ft/lbs torque, stock and staying that way
1995 318i spray paint red, 170,000 miles and climbing
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  #3  
Old 09-05-2012, 07:41 PM
Lucas1215 Lucas1215 is offline
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Location: North hills california
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 18
Mein Auto: 2000 bmw z3 roadster 2.3
Tranny

Im just actually a newbie and i read that there should be a right temperature in changing transmission fluid on bmw! And should have a machine to do it? Also read once you touch the tranny some of bmw starts to messed up the transmission if u dont do the right way...
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2012, 09:54 PM
rsutoratosu rsutoratosu is offline
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Location: Nassau
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 94
Mein Auto: Z4
This is a standard drain and fill. There is usually a sticker on what type of fluid, i suggest taking a picture of your transmission pan on both side to check what fluid you need.
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  #5  
Old 09-06-2012, 06:33 AM
Wertles Wertles is online now
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Location: Rochester, NY
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 198
Mein Auto: 1999 M Coupe
Procedure (that I used):

1. Take the car for a warm up drive.
2. Place car on jack stands. Must be 4 at the same height. The car needs to be level.
3. Remove transmission drain plug and watch all the bad brown fluid drop out.
4. Remove all pan bolts and drop pan.
5. Clean pan with cleaner of choice including magnet.
6. Remove filter from transmission. The 4 speed has strainer mounting bolts into the valve body, the 5 speed does not. The tube may break (mine did), reference the new filter to make sure to remove all bits and pieces.
7. Install new filter. 4 speed mounting bolts should be torqued to 3.7 ft lbs.
8. Remove fill bolt. It was a tight fit (only in getting socket and wratchet on, not the actual tightness) in my car but came out without an issue.
9. Install new pan gasket and reinstall pan with new supplied bolts. Get them all finger tight.
10. Torque all bolts in line pattern, not a cross-wise pattern as typically done on tires/head gasket to 9 ft lbs.
11. Install drain bolt to 18 ft lbs (4 speed) or 13 ft lbs (5 speed).
12. Fill with ATF, approximately 3.5 quarts (4 speed) or 4.2 quarts (5 speed). I used Amsoil ATF, pick your own poison. This goes through the upper fill port with a pump easily obtained at NAPA, Pep Boys etc, until it flows out of fill hole.
13. Install fill bolt to 24 ft lbs (4 speed) or 13 ft lbs (5 speed).
14. Lower the car. Take for a drive. Come back. Get the car back on all 4 jack stands again.
15. Remove fill bolt. Check fluid level. Add if necessary. Again, should be at the bottom of the fill hole.
16. Install fill bolt to 24 or 13 ft lbs.
17. Place car on ground and drive.

I think it actually took me longer to type this up than to actually change the fluid and filter. The car has been flawless since.
__________________
1999 Boston Green M Coupe
2002 Z3 2.5 Automatic Roadster
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually, 850 ft/lbs torque, stock and staying that way
1995 318i spray paint red, 170,000 miles and climbing

Last edited by Wertles; 10-11-2012 at 06:54 AM.
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  #6  
Old 09-06-2012, 11:48 AM
dougmcintyre dougmcintyre is offline
formerly updmst
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 687
Mein Auto: 2000 M Coupe, 1997 318ti
I would remove the fill bolt before removing the drain bolt. That way, if I can't remove the fill bolt, the car can still be driven to the shop.
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  #7  
Old 09-06-2012, 12:20 PM
Wertles Wertles is online now
Yoda with a library card
Location: Rochester, NY
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 198
Mein Auto: 1999 M Coupe
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougmcintyre View Post
I would remove the fill bolt before removing the drain bolt. That way, if I can't remove the fill bolt, the car can still be driven to the shop.
That is true but not as necessary as on the diff or manual transmission. For those, it is a must. As you can see, these are not torqued down very tight. It was also a lot easier to see them once the pan was off.
__________________
1999 Boston Green M Coupe
2002 Z3 2.5 Automatic Roadster
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually, 850 ft/lbs torque, stock and staying that way
1995 318i spray paint red, 170,000 miles and climbing
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  #8  
Old 09-06-2012, 12:49 PM
Monolith Monolith is offline
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Location: NJ
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 751
Mein Auto: 1997 Z3 1.9L DASC Auto
Engine needs to be running and in park when checking the fluid level. Otherwise it will be too low. It's also good to slowly shift through each gear before placing it in park to better distribute the fluid.

Turn on the A/C to slightly increase engine revs to get max fluid level.

Proper temperature for checking is between 30 deg C and 50 deg C. This is the actual oil temperature (need INPA interface to read tranny oil temps). If you're using a thermal IR detector on the pan, approximate with 83 deg F for a max fill (close to 30 deg C). Ambient temperature is going to dictate how long the car runs before checking the fluid level.

You need to carefully consider the aspect of being under a running car that is probably on jackstands (unless you have a lift) versus the cost of a professional. However, most garage mechanics will under fill the tranny because they do not run the engine or they fill it at too high of a temperature. It is always a good idea to ask exactly what procedure they use.

The tranny requires about 9 quarts. If you use the internal pump to relace the fluid, you'll use about 12 quarts or so to remove most of the old fluid. Pan fluid changes get about 4 quarts at a time. Doing 3 or 4 pan changes will get you up to 90% new fluid.

Last edited by Monolith; 09-06-2012 at 12:54 PM.
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