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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #1  
Old 09-29-2014, 03:15 PM
Meme750li Meme750li is offline
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Red face Replace transmission or nah!

Hi, Im new to this forum and I am desperately confused on what to do. I welcome ALL HELP and feedback! Someone please help!!!!

My issue with my car is this....at first my car had all fault lights on but was working fine. (I think due to sum water getting in through the sunroof). Then all of a sudden I was having the transmission at fault error. At first I was able to turn off the vehicle then turn back on and it would go away. Then of course it would start back up. I replaced the battery and the car was fine but the all lights were still on. Car ran fine for a while and then started back up with the transmission at fault. Then it got to the point that if I resetted the codes after the scanner detected other codes (none of which was the transmission code) car ran fine again for a while. But now the transmission at fault code is back on but the car drives alot worst then before. Car will go into Reverse and drive after immediately turning on car (but wont if turn on car n sit for a minute) then while in drive it does have any issue with switching to other gears. Finally took it to a shop and one shop tells me that the Engine wire harness needs to be replaced ($1600) and that its a "possiblity" it would clear up the problem. I didnt have $1600 for a possiblity so I got another mechanic to look at it and he said its the transmission which would be $7000????? Now which direction should I go in? Keep in mind the car does go in reverse and drive but when driving does not go into other gears properly. Someone please help!!!

Last edited by Meme750li; 09-29-2014 at 03:19 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-29-2014, 03:55 PM
flash_n flash_n is online now
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Hi there,

could you please be more specific on how the errors started?
Also could you please list the errors you're seeing, e.g. dynamic drive, active body control, transmission emergency with assoc. error codes?

This would make it alot easier to determine if the errors are due to the same event, or if you are dealing with multiple failures that are not connected.

Generally speaking these cars are quite sensitive to power issues, failed alternator, battery, ICM.
The transmission seems to be robust by design, but has some items that fail over time that need attention e.g. adapter & sealing sleeve.
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Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs):
ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer, headlight vertical aim, VCGs
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  #3  
Old 09-29-2014, 11:26 PM
jbhoot jbhoot is offline
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Are you able to read the error codes?


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  #4  
Old 09-30-2014, 05:22 AM
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Nygel Nygel is online now
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Look into a new battery first.
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  #5  
Old 09-30-2014, 06:58 AM
Meme750li Meme750li is offline
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Hi Yes, Im getting the ABS control, seat belt, transmission at fault (sometimes the computer will show me the different shifts when the transmission at fault would come up), check engine light, the dynamic drive code will comes up but does not stay on as often as the ones I listed. I replaced the battery about 6 months ago and I am assuming they programmed it to car (car worked fine for about a month or two but all lights were still on). The first shop I sent it to said that the wire harness needs to be replaced (is this the engine wire harness not sure) but said it was getting fluid to it, and that it was a possibilty it would clear up the problem, but either way needed to be replaced. Can someone confirm is that its the engine wire harness. I know he cant be talking about the wire harness for the radio. Or can he?

Last edited by Meme750li; 09-30-2014 at 07:06 AM.
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  #6  
Old 09-30-2014, 07:09 AM
Meme750li Meme750li is offline
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Flash N......the errors started when the sunroof started leaking and the water started coming inside and down the drivers side panel by the door and windshield and then on the passenger side panel but the worst part the water hit was the back floor board of passenger side.
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  #7  
Old 09-30-2014, 06:14 PM
Meme750li Meme750li is offline
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Exclamation Update

Ok so today I received an update on my 750. I found out there is a leak in my transmission in which the fluid got on my transmission wire harness, so it needs to be replaced. So now my question would be does anyone know if the wire harness needs to be replaced does it need to be re-programmed and since there is a leak in the transmission where would the leak be and does the transmission need to be replaced due to the leak.
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  #8  
Old 10-01-2014, 01:56 PM
switz switz is offline
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Mechatronic a sleeve is leaking and its in fail safe because your low on trans fluid now. Just replace the sleeve and top off the fluid. Never heard of the harness going bad, but the sleeve is very common.
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  #9  
Old 10-01-2014, 02:02 PM
flash_n flash_n is online now
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I'm with switz on the transmission problem. If your steering wheel got soaked, you may be getting alot of errors due to the steering angle sensor. The error codes would show this.

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Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs):
ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer, headlight vertical aim, VCGs
next up: P0492
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  #10  
Old 10-01-2014, 02:50 PM
jbhoot jbhoot is offline
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Agree with Switz, you should not have to replace the wiring harness. However, since you are replacing the mechatronics sleeve, you should also replace the mechatronics adapter sleeve as well. See the link below.

http://www.zftranspart.com/images/custom/mecha.pdf
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  #11  
Old 10-01-2014, 03:30 PM
mgucci745 mgucci745 is offline
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I'm biting the bullet. Taking my car down to a shop for a FULL diagnostic ($40)
Believe I'll have to replace guibo, fluid, pan, sleeve, adapter, 4 seals, and a transmission value reset.

Worried about the rough idle I'm starting to have.... Hop off the freeway and I get misfires (Like its choking)
and When I start the car, I get rough idling (Thinking its camshaft sensors, vanos seals, coil packs, or motor mounts )
Anyone have this problem too?
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  #12  
Old 10-01-2014, 06:58 PM
meangreen94z meangreen94z is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgucci745 View Post
I'm biting the bullet. Taking my car down to a shop for a FULL diagnostic ($40)
Believe I'll have to replace guibo, fluid, pan, sleeve, adapter, 4 seals, and a transmission value reset.

Worried about the rough idle I'm starting to have.... Hop off the freeway and I get misfires (Like its choking)
and When I start the car, I get rough idling (Thinking its camshaft sensors, vanos seals, coil packs, or motor mounts )
Anyone have this problem too?
Any fault codes? If there are no fault codes I would have someone smoke test the engine for vacuum leaks. The N62 DME is alot slower at picking up unmetered air leaks than the N62TU DME. I've seen some just set misfire faults. But you smoke test it and there are multiple air leaks causing the rough running.
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  #13  
Old 10-01-2014, 07:00 PM
mgucci745 mgucci745 is offline
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Took it to a mechanic today, he concluded that it is my motor and tranny mounts, my transmission parameters were perfect.
Showed me why it was my engine and tranny mounts too.

Is this something a teenager can tackle in his garage on jack stands?
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  #14  
Old 10-01-2014, 07:54 PM
meangreen94z meangreen94z is offline
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Doubt that's the issue. Maybe you should try taking the car to someone familiar with it.. Engine mounts are not something easily done by a home mechanic.,The engine mounts you have to support the engine and drop the front subframe to get them out. The trans mounts you will have to support the transmission and drop it enough to remove the crossmember.

Last edited by meangreen94z; 10-01-2014 at 07:57 PM.
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  #15  
Old 10-01-2014, 08:09 PM
mgucci745 mgucci745 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meangreen94z View Post
Doubt that's the issue. Maybe you should try taking the car to someone familiar with it.. Engine mounts are not something easily done by a home mechanic.,The engine mounts you have to support the engine and drop the front subframe to get them out. The trans mounts you will have to support the transmission and drop it enough to remove the crossmember.
What makes you "doubt" it?
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  #16  
Old 10-01-2014, 08:27 PM
meangreen94z meangreen94z is offline
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The engine mounts on V8 E65/66's are pretty stout, granted your car is 12-13 years old. Yes, loose engine mounts can amplify a slight vibration, but there is a long list of far more common failure points that can cause your engine to run rough. From vacuum leaks to worn valvetronic levers. If you want to try mounts, go for it. Why did he think they were bad? They were leaking hydraulic(black) fluid?

As far as the transmission, its extremely hard to see the mounts with the heat shields installed, unless they are torn in half it won't affect shift feel. Again there is a long list of issues with the 6HP26Z. I would try solenoids,fluid/filter, and related seals. A new firm guibo with faulty solenoids will only make the shifts feel harsher.
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  #17  
Old 10-01-2014, 08:49 PM
mgucci745 mgucci745 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meangreen94z View Post
The engine mounts on V8 E65/66's are pretty stout, granted your car is 12-13 years old. Yes, loose engine mounts can amplify a slight vibration, but there is a long list of far more common failure points that can cause your engine to run rough. From vacuum leaks to worn valvetronic levers. If you want to try mounts, go for it. Why did he think they were bad? They were leaking hydraulic(black) fluid?

As far as the transmission, its extremely hard to see the mounts with the heat shields installed, unless they are torn in half it won't affect shift feel. Again there is a long list of issues with the 6HP26Z. I would try solenoids,fluid/filter, and related seals. A new firm guibo with faulty solenoids will only make the shifts feel harsher.
He brake torqued my car (held the brake, put it in drive, revved it) the engine would raise
(Held the brake, put it in reverse, revved it) the engine would lower

I do feel the 2-1 harsh shift, and I hear a little ticking noise 1-2 shift.
It's very hard for me to conclude...

My RPM gauge also does not sit still, meaning a vacuum leak could be a cause.

What's the best way to address these problems man? Hook it up to INPA and run the codes?
It's very hard for an 18 year old to do this.... Especially on my own...


Note* this guy has 4 certificates, his shop had m3's in it, and he was an informant at Chrysler before moving to his own place. He told me to chill, that the tranny was indeed problem free... And told me not even to get the engine and tranny mounts done, this guy was REAL honest with me (Thank god) and he did not just tell me a quote. We actually had a conversation like real friends would helping eachother with their car.
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Last edited by mgucci745; 10-01-2014 at 08:51 PM.
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  #18  
Old 10-01-2014, 11:43 PM
flash_n flash_n is online now
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Mgucci if you have a windoze laptop, get the obd cable for 40$ from eBay and install the BMW standard tools, that you can Google. With that you'll be able to run inpa and read out all the codes. I found it to be a good diagnosis tool.

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Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs):
ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer, headlight vertical aim, VCGs
next up: P0492
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