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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #26  
Old 09-25-2012, 04:34 PM
bayerisheteknik bayerisheteknik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csmeance View Post
I was just making sure about the bolts since some folks try to force fit it! The rims are the right size but now I'm a tad confused since you said you feel the vibration more in the steering wheel than you do in the seat, but you said the oposite a few posts ago!

If the steering wheel is shaking, then it's the front wheels that have an issue. I suggest you have the wheels rebalanced at a shop that uses a HUNTER ROAD FORCE BALANCER :
http://www.gsp9700.com/search/FindLocations.cfm

These machines are the best in the industry and will balance your tires well!

Another concern I have is about the wheel centers, mount the wheels on your car (no lug bolts, jacked up clearing the ground) and see if the wheel is sitting flush on the hub (behind where the centercap goes). If not, you will need a hubcentric adapter and that would be the cause for a TON of vibrations. If it is sitting fine then the issue is more than likely the balancing + bad front tires.

FYI, a tire with a bad set of cords or rubber that is separating on the inside will cause serious vibrations as the warm up and get to certain speeds as the weight of the wheel is shifting. Also it only takes a little bit of weight to get a vibration resolved or worse, I think the shop near me got it within 3 grams of what it needed to be in order to fix all vibrations!
im pretty sure it was someone else on this thread mentioning vibration in the seat...i only feel it on the steering wheel

i checked around naples and firestone have a machine that can balance any wheel size,most shops have up to 18's...we took our tahoe there with 22s and they balance them well..not sure what kind of machine they use

and before i tightened the rims after taking off oem 18s i made sure there is no rust or dirt on wheel hubs and that 20's sit tight and flush...i took few pix just now how they sit on front and rear
tires both front and rear are new even though the front ones are cheaper brand they still have little nipples on them
i try search around if anyone has hunter road force machine as you mentioned....
thanks for all the info
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  #27  
Old 09-25-2012, 06:19 PM
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First_745Li First_745Li is offline
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I too am getting the vibration in the seats as well as in the steering wheel. I took it to my INDY today, he checked the rear suspension, bushings, control arms, and drive shaft.. according to him everything looks good. Tomorrow I am taking the car back so we can try the stock 19" wheels and see if the vibration is still present. My INDY thinks its the wheels/tires. I doubt it since this is the second set of brand new wheels. I'm so unhappy right now.
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  #28  
Old 09-25-2012, 06:30 PM
bayerisheteknik bayerisheteknik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by First_745Li View Post
I too am getting the vibration in the seats as well as in the steering wheel. I took it to my INDY today, he checked the rear suspension, bushings, control arms, and drive shaft.. according to him everything looks good. Tomorrow I am taking the car back so we can try the stock 19" wheels and see if the vibration is still present. My INDY thinks its the wheels/tires. I doubt it since this is the second set of brand new wheels. I'm so unhappy right now.
i know it sucks...let us know how it goes...
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  #29  
Old 09-25-2012, 07:09 PM
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I hear this problem a lot an have heard that it may be the the larger rim. I'm not sure though. I wish everyone the best an please post the final results.
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  #30  
Old 09-25-2012, 09:31 PM
jenkx jenkx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayerisheteknik View Post
i wish that was the case on my flagship..but already checked while had the car on jack and there was no movemet in any direction both side/side and up/down...everything is solid
maybe its the rims its self since i bought them used
Could be slightly bent, not necessarily loose. I hope you solve the problem.
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  #31  
Old 09-25-2012, 10:09 PM
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I would bet that one of your front rims is bent slightly. Happened to my 24's on my expedition
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  #32  
Old 09-26-2012, 12:03 AM
VAN HELLSING VAN HELLSING is offline
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I think it's the Rims, they might be defected. They might be and look new, but could be poor quality material. I had a friend who had this issue. If the car runs fine with the 18's, then most likely it's them rims. Make sure that those screws are tighten right with the spacesors. If so, i would get rid of them. Stop wasting your time and money trying to find or fix something else that's not broken.
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  #33  
Old 09-26-2012, 12:24 AM
davethewheel davethewheel is offline
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I had slight movement in my steering wheel at about 55-65 mph...no movement aft. 65-70mph, was really getting frustrated with it and was at a shop to have it Hunter road force balanced and the mechanic raised my car up and spun my front wheels and I could see the whole rim/wheel move very slightly from side to side, purchased new rims (aftermarket for 1200.00) now it is perfect. Oh and also I could feel the shaking in the floorboard) '06 530i...good luck it took me over 6 mos. To figure out...before that I bought 4 tires!

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  #34  
Old 09-26-2012, 06:28 AM
bayerisheteknik bayerisheteknik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenkx View Post
Could be slightly bent, not necessarily loose. I hope you solve the problem.
thanks

guys i think its the rims it self.....with oem 18s car drives perfect,straight,no vibration at any speed

even though the 20's look good,i couldn't find any bent on any of the rims,maybe they are not for the bmw,maybe car is too heavy for those rims as someone mentioned..
also the guy i bought them from said he used them on his lexus as well so he was switching them on lexus and his e66

today i'll try lower the psi on fronts to 34 and rears to 37 from 41...i haven't spent any money on balance or tires as they were new

so i can spent few bux on balancing and see if that helps if not...put 18's back on...sell those rims/tires on craigslist for 550 obo and just buy 22s from First_745Li if he still has his for sale
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  #35  
Old 09-26-2012, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayerisheteknik View Post
thanks

guys i think its the rims it self.....with oem 18s car drives perfect,straight,no vibration at any speed

even though the 20's look good,i couldn't find any bent on any of the rims,maybe they are not for the bmw,maybe car is too heavy for those rims as someone mentioned..
also the guy i bought them from said he used them on his lexus as well so he was switching them on lexus and his e66

today i'll try lower the psi on fronts to 34 and rears to 37 from 41...i haven't spent any money on balance or tires as they were new

so i can spent few bux on balancing and see if that helps if not...put 18's back on...sell those rims/tires on craigslist for 550 obo and just buy 22s from First_745Li if he still has his for sale
Since there's two threads regarding the same issues, and I've commented on both.. please see this thread on my last response. I do believe it's worth a shot.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=637730&page=3
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  #36  
Old 09-26-2012, 08:02 AM
bayerisheteknik bayerisheteknik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by First_745Li View Post
Since there's two threads regarding the same issues, and I've commented on both.. please see this thread on my last response. I do believe it's worth a shot.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=637730&page=3
interesting about the re-indexing of tires....how much they charge for that??? or is it included if you take it in for balance

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  #37  
Old 09-26-2012, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayerisheteknik View Post
interesting about the re-indexing of tires....how much they charge for that??? or is it included if you take it in for balance

I don't remember what I paid when it was done on my truck several years ago., I will soon find out though. I plan to stop in and talk to them on my way home.
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  #38  
Old 09-27-2012, 01:15 PM
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Here's an update.... My INDY put OEM 19"s back on and we went out for a ride.. up and down I-95 and locally, smooth as glass.. like a 7 should be. Put my 22's back on and went back out... steering wheel shaking at 45mph and vibes in the seat, etc, etc. So I then took it to Serious Autosport here in WPB, they road forced all the tires, machine showed 3 "bad" tires meaning out of round or defective in some way. They re-indexed one tire and it balanced better. All four wheels were able to be balanced better than they were before. I drove home, the steering wheel doesn't shake anymore, still some vibes in the seat but that's from the tires. I called the other shop and I told them what the results were and I've requested to have all four new tires.. We will see what happens. I will definately go back to Serious Autosport to get the balancing re-checked.

bayerisheteknik,
They charged $15 extra to re-index that tire.
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  #39  
Old 09-28-2012, 07:38 AM
bayerisheteknik bayerisheteknik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by First_745Li View Post
Here's an update.... My INDY put OEM 19"s back on and we went out for a ride.. up and down I-95 and locally, smooth as glass.. like a 7 should be. Put my 22's back on and went back out... steering wheel shaking at 45mph and vibes in the seat, etc, etc. So I then took it to Serious Autosport here in WPB, they road forced all the tires, machine showed 3 "bad" tires meaning out of round or defective in some way. They re-indexed one tire and it balanced better. All four wheels were able to be balanced better than they were before. I drove home, the steering wheel doesn't shake anymore, still some vibes in the seat but that's from the tires. I called the other shop and I told them what the results were and I've requested to have all four new tires.. We will see what happens. I will definately go back to Serious Autosport to get the balancing re-checked.

bayerisheteknik,
They charged $15 extra to re-index that tire.
ok thanks man so it was damn tires ehhh??
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  #40  
Old 09-28-2012, 07:42 AM
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ok thanks man so it was damn tires ehhh??
It seems that way at this point. I (as well as other members here) recommend using a shop that has a RoadForce machine,

Use this site to look for one..

http://www.gsp9700.com/search/findgsp9700.cfm
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  #41  
Old 09-28-2012, 07:43 AM
bayerisheteknik bayerisheteknik is offline
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btw i solved my problem too...
with stock 18s car drives smooooooth...20s little vibration in steering wheel

i had my psi set in rear at 41 and fronts were 37.5....went down to 35 on fronts vibration less but still present...

so i thought let me go as sticker on door says...

i put 32PSI Front and on rear i went from 41PSi down to 35PSI and no more shaking....

i think like First_745Li mentioned you need reindexing and tires...

i believe my tires even though new are not perfect and with higher PSI they shake...

went down with PSI and no shaking.....
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  #42  
Old 09-28-2012, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayerisheteknik View Post
btw i solved my problem too...
with stock 18s car drives smooooooth...20s little vibration in steering wheel

i had my psi set in rear at 41 and fronts were 37.5....went down to 35 on fronts vibration less but still present...

so i thought let me go as sticker on door says...

i put 32PSI Front and on rear i went from 41PSi down to 35PSI and no more shaking....

i think like First_745Li mentioned you need reindexing and tires...

i believe my tires even though new are not perfect and with higher PSI they shake...

went down with PSI and no shaking.....
cool
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  #43  
Old 09-29-2012, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayerisheteknik View Post
thanks

guys i think its the rims it self.....with oem 18s car drives perfect,straight,no vibration at any speed

even though the 20's look good,i couldn't find any bent on any of the rims,maybe they are not for the bmw,maybe car is too heavy for those rims as someone mentioned..
also the guy i bought them from said he used them on his lexus as well so he was switching them on lexus and his e66

today i'll try lower the psi on fronts to 34 and rears to 37 from 41...i haven't spent any money on balance or tires as they were new

so i can spent few bux on balancing and see if that helps if not...put 18's back on...sell those rims/tires on craigslist for 550 obo and just buy 22s from First_745Li if he still has his for sale
Im betting its your front rims. I had the exact same issue with my 24's. I decided to put one of the wheels from the front on the rear and the shaking stopped. That told me that the wheel i put in the rear was damaged slightly. If that doesnt work try the other wheel. Trust me on this lol, i put in $500 on tires and balancing before i found the problem.
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  #44  
Old 09-29-2012, 11:28 AM
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Hi all

It seems some of you have resolved the problem with smaller/larger rims and experimenting with different tyre pressures, I however have a different tale to tell:

I managed to find a garage that had a rolling road amd a lift, I'm fact they are a firm who deal with race engines, mod and manufacture, including mapping etc, not quite what I need but skilled engineers and much cheaper than BMW.

Firstly my re-ferbed wheels still had burrings on the wheel hub so they were not sitting well on the hub. The wheels are now true however the vibration was still present. The culprit was found to be a worn and cracked doghnut between the driveshaft and rear axel, this slack was being transmitted through the shaft to the rear wheels.

I went to collect the car and after only 30seconds of driving a loud knocking vibrating noise came from the middle if the car.......SSSSTTTTOOOOOPPPPPP!!!!

I called the garage"something is proper wrong" car in overnight

Got a call this morning, driveshaft bearing gone, the doughnut had been taking the slack and now it was new and rigid, the defected bearing was now having a voice!

My 750i sport is 7 years old with 80k on the clock, lets hope this is the end of it
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  #45  
Old 09-29-2012, 03:20 PM
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First_745Li First_745Li is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultimate7 View Post
Hi all

It seems some of you have resolved the problem with smaller/larger rims and experimenting with different tyre pressures, I however have a different tale to tell:

I managed to find a garage that had a rolling road amd a lift, I'm fact they are a firm who deal with race engines, mod and manufacture, including mapping etc, not quite what I need but skilled engineers and much cheaper than BMW.

Firstly my re-ferbed wheels still had burrings on the wheel hub so they were not sitting well on the hub. The wheels are now true however the vibration was still present. The culprit was found to be a worn and cracked doghnut between the driveshaft and rear axel, this slack was being transmitted through the shaft to the rear wheels.

I went to collect the car and after only 30seconds of driving a loud knocking vibrating noise came from the middle if the car.......SSSSTTTTOOOOOPPPPPP!!!!

I called the garage"something is proper wrong" car in overnight

Got a call this morning, driveshaft bearing gone, the doughnut had been taking the slack and now it was new and rigid, the defected bearing was now having a voice!

My 750i sport is 7 years old with 80k on the clock, lets hope this is the end of it
Good luck. I hope that was your issue.
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  #46  
Old 09-30-2012, 06:30 PM
TUF-FKR TUF-FKR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csmeance View Post
I was just making sure about the bolts since some folks try to force fit it! The rims are the right size but now I'm a tad confused since you said you feel the vibration more in the steering wheel than you do in the seat, but you said the opposite a few posts ago!

If the steering wheel is shaking, then it's the front wheels that have an issue. I suggest you have the wheels rebalanced at a shop that uses a HUNTER ROAD FORCE BALANCER :
http://www.gsp9700.com/search/FindLocations.cfm

These machines are the best in the industry and will balance your tires well!

Another concern I have is about the wheel centers, mount the wheels on your car (no lug bolts, jacked up clearing the ground) and see if the wheel is sitting flush on the hub (behind where the centercap goes). If not, you will need a hubcentric adapter and that would be the cause for a TON of vibrations. If it is sitting fine then the issue is more than likely the balancing + bad front tires.

FYI, a tire with a bad set of cords or rubber that is separating on the inside will cause serious vibrations as the warm up and get to certain speeds as the weight of the wheel is shifting. Also it only takes a little bit of weight to get a vibration resolved or worse, I think the shop near me got it within 3 grams of what it needed to be in order to fix all vibrations!
Potential problems:
1. Bent part from bolder (The larger/heavier rims exaggerated the problem
2. Or the seller did tell you the truth and balanced them, but your spacers are not centered, causing the vibration.
3. New rims are bent causing vibration (unlikely as you can see when they have flat spots).

Isolate the problem. Put stock rims back on, Front first, drive get feedback. Put stock back on the rear, drive get feedback. Put 20's back on front then drive, etc...

Im going with problem statement number one. The bent part on car (from boulder), made you OEM tire Wear very un-even, eventually you took notice and entered a new variable (rims, tires). Problem exacerbated with larger rims. You will destroy that tire in no time, and the vibration will cause all sorts of other issues on your car in a short period of time. Vibration is an amazing tool...
G
ood luck and keep us posted.
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  #47  
Old 10-01-2012, 12:31 AM
Ultimate7 Ultimate7 is offline
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TUF

are you getting 2 people muddled, as it was me who hit the boulder!

should collect my car in the next couple of days, new doughnut and cerntre bearing!
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  #48  
Old 10-01-2012, 01:41 AM
Port Canaveral Port Canaveral is offline
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Bad Bearings

Sounds like bad bearings some where in the drive shaft or wheel bearings that are getting out of whack, depending on what load they have on them at a particular weight & speed. Once in a while they actually get into position whereby you think you fixed the problem. Then under a particular load they get out of alignment due to bad spots on some of the bearings and start causing vibration until they fall back into place temporairily. Pretty soon they or it (bearing) will break into small pieces and then you will know for sure where the problem is due to noise and crunching sounds. Thats my guess for now! I hope it works out ok for you. Good luck
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  #49  
Old 10-01-2012, 06:40 AM
TUF-FKR TUF-FKR is offline
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Originally Posted by Ultimate7 View Post
TUF

are you getting 2 people muddled, as it was me who hit the boulder!

should collect my car in the next couple of days, new doughnut and cerntre bearing!
Ahh, yes. I forgot that there is approx. 3 of you on this thread with a similar issue. Thanks for the correction. I still suggest isolating the problem to the rims.

I have a flat spot on my right front, but there is no mistaking where the problem is. Last time it was on the inner lip of the front rim (paid $150 to have it fixed), then a month later I hit another pot hole and flattened the outer lip. FAK! Totally my fault. I dont have vibration issues it has a little shimmy. Luckily there is a shop locally that carrys outer rings for Asanti wheels.

Once the issues are resolved please post the solution as this is always good to know and pretty common problem.

With all the state budget cuts the roads suffer around So-Cal. Combined with too many people here.
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  #50  
Old 10-08-2012, 06:11 AM
Ultimate7 Ultimate7 is offline
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Problem Solved!

The problem lay finally in the Drive/Prop shaft and specifically with the prop shaft mount and latterley the CV joint. I have had these replaced and the vibration has all but gone. i still have an issue with one of my wheels which was supposed to have been straightened but still has a ding in it which has just about balanced out.

There are plenty of threads on this site about vibration from the shafts and in most cases these two areas are the most common faults.

You might be told to replace the entire shaft.THIS REALLY IS NOT NECESSARY. you might also be told to have is rebalanced, again this may not be the case.

There are a few people who have done the job themselves but its a big job involving the removal of a very heavy exhaust and some specialist tools might be needed. Personally id find a garage that charges around 50 quid an hour. its a 4 hour job and the rear CV joint was 130. its not gonna blow the christmas fund!

best of luck....
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