Z3 Spray on bed liner

I have noticed the Z has a few problem areas in the category of leaks.
Wether it be the soft top (which my seals and hooks are still good) or be it the phantom dash leak. Even if the window aligment is slightly off.

This might seem sacreligious, but I am going to rip the carpeting out of the Z, re-route my wires, tape it off and bedliner the cab floors and back plates. Topping that off with a few discreet drain plugs.

I have seen on the forums where people complain of leaks causing mildew and mold in the floorboard.Such is the case with my car.

I feel the carpeting at some point in the cars life will be a bit worn. And in my experince with owners of trucks, the bed liner will take a hellacious beating.

This may not be the most elegant solution.
Who am I kidding, this is the "Neck" solution.

But I am willing to give it a shot.
If all dosent end up as planned, there will be some serious carpet cleaing and re installation in my future.

If you have any opinions, good or bad, throw em at me.

Thanks everyone.

I don't know why it can't work. It's going to be a lot noisier in the cabin. All that foam deadens a lot of noise.

I have owned several trucks and a car (1974 AMC Gremlin) that did not have carpet, but rather a fitted rubber mat for the flooring. That was before they invented spray-on urethanes.

I think there is an airbag sensor under the passenger carpet that could pose an obstacle for you. Let us know how it goes i may copy you haha.

I'm sorry, but this sounds like a HORRIBLE idea. Why not try finding the leaks and repairing it correctly. Leaks at the A Pillar and windshield cowl are well documented and corrected. Another leak can be at the sealing frame at the rear of the convertible top, which will happen to all these cars as they age and the butyl dries out over time, and this is also correctable.

Originally Posted by amancuso

I'm sorry, but this sounds like a HORRIBLE idea. Why not try finding the leaks and repairing it correctly. Leaks at the A Pillar and windshield cowl are well documented and corrected. Another leak can be at the sealing frame at the rear of the convertible top, which will happen to all these cars as they age and the butyl dries out over time, and this is also correctable.

I agree! If you are going to remove the carpet (no small task) leave it out while you track down the leaks. It will be easier to see, espscially if you dust it with talc and leave it out in the rain.

Ive got the kit now to do the roll on bed liner. Something like 6 coats builds up a good tough layer.
As for fixing the leaks, the A pillar and windshield's rubber seams have been replaced. (since they were bad when I bought the car) The tension hooks have been adjusted and I have treated the top and rubber separately. So, I am not to sure where else it could come from.

My father has stepped in and suggested that I bedliner the interior and clean the carpet while its out, then put the carpet back in over the liner. I am lead to believe, if anything, the liner underlayer will protect any possible bare metal spots from corrosion.
The noise factor has definatly been taken into consideration as well and I'm sure thats where his doubts of my original plan lie.

Once I dig into the car im going to hunt down the small dash leak, followed with the liner, and will ultimately put the carpet back over the armageddon proof underlayer.

As for the array of wires and sensors to be moved and advoided, they will be dealt with however necessary.

Thanks for everyone's views!

You will be shocked when you see the irregular nature of the cockpit floors, and I seriously doubt that it would be comfortable, let alone safe, to drive.

The foam backing is sculptured to fill in all the irregularities and provide a smooth foundation for the carpet. Having it cleaned and thoroughly dried while it is out of the car is the best idea here yet__kudos to your dad

The roll-on bed-liner application will be a nightmare (and apparently, you get to relive it six__6__times...). Lord Fusor makes a product, their #805 wheelhouse coating, as perhaps do others, that lays down a nice textured coating (completely variable by adjusting the amount of air-mix) that I use on all the cars I do the rearend work on. All you'd have to do is some minimal masking, and spray away! This has to cure and ideally be topcoated, though it's not mandatory. Given a proper cure time, it's bulletproof (I have it in the wheelwells of my Healey, where it make a tremendous difference to the din of stones being thrown up).

Did this just last night:









"I'm sorry, but this sounds like a HORRIBLE idea". LOL! Tell us how you really feel, Al

Yea, dad seems to be the one with a good automotive repair mind. Something I hope to inherit after a few more years in the garage with him!

Im more worried than anything about rust and mold.
If I can rust proof the floors and rid myself of the mold (and the leaks that caused it) I will be happy.

As for your suggestion, thats a better idea in means of application (and what its actually made for). The roll on kit states that for a tougher than nails coat, 6 layers is best. Although not necessary. Instructions say it more depends on what youre hauling. So I suppose in a truck its wether youre hauling brush and dirt or iron scrap.

I believe less coats would do. But my first thought was of course most protection.
Ive got time to give it more thought, plan better and research some more.

And the letting me know how you really feel, I welcome challenging opinions! If it really seems to be a bad idea, LET ME KNOW!! lol I thrive off the opposition. Its how one learns. The best automotive help I have ever recieved has been from all you lovely folks here on the forum. Sometimes its a thumbs up and a "thats an easy fix". Sometimes its a "where the hell did you get that idea from?" I'll take it however it may come.

It pays to have an open mind, and I think you're on the right track!

Yes, arresting the progression of mold and rust is an xlnt first priority, and that we are in full agreement about.

There's some cute little saying about experience and knowledge, and how it's derived from making bad decisions__we all had to start somewhere, so it sounds as though you could do a lot worse than to hang around the garage with your dad (and to have a Z3, for that matter).

A pillar leaks (even though the rubber was replaced) could be coming from the little "triangle" at the top. Behind the dash leak is most likely due to clogged cowl drains.

Just to show you what you will be dealing with, these pictures were posted by someone building a race car

Between the pictures and wiring diagrams I found, it does certainly look like a nightmare.
Am I willing to brave the storm and protect the car? Yes.
Was my original plan the best? Not at all.
Do I have competent help? Yes, and I get to spend time with dad in the process.
This is why I posted this thread. Better ideas or revisions come out of those who have been down the road before.

Thanks everyone.