Power Trunk not working - Have to use key

Guys, I did SEARCH and came up with something. I should first check the wires for chafing and breaking around the hinges. And obvoiusly check the fuses. But do the actuators go bad a lot of the times? I found Ebay has tons of used actuactors for about $50. Should I go that route once I've narrowed it down more.

Yes the actuators go bad. I am in the process of replacing my door actuator. Negative on buying a used actuator, especially from FleaBay, unless you enjoy replacing actuators. You will have NO idea regarding the user life of a used component. And you can get a NEW VDO actuator from Pelican for $46 and $40 from BMA. Get a filter or two and you have free shipping.

^Bingo. I didn't do a furious search for the part #, but I threw this out b/c it's on the horizon of annoying problems the car has. Tomorrow evening I get my new BMW key Hopefully that fixes my keyless entry issue. both original keys I have are dead, dealer tested them. Back to the trunk deal... I'm going to check the wiring and fuses. I know when I press the button inside by thedrivers foot I hear something in the dash, like maybe a relay. So I'm betting it's wires or a actuator.

Make sure the trunk lock doesn't turn to the "Valet" position. It happened to me before. The button inside and on the keyfob couldn't open the trunk, only manually with the key in the trunk lock.

^where is the valet switch? I think my 335i has one but cant' remember.

Originally Posted by FLE39

^where is the valet switch? I think my 335i has one but cant' remember.

Everything you need to know about keys and key settings (including valet) has been posted by QSilver7 so do a specific search on his name.

Or ... type /valet F3 in the bestlinks ... and it will come up with good references:

For example:
- A description of the various types of BMW Remote, Illuminated, Spare/Wallet, & Valet/Service keys & settings (1) (2)

As for the trunk wiring loom and/or actuator, I just typed /trunk F3 and found this which may help you:
- How to repair your frayed trunk wiring loom (1) & an easy fix for your trunk latch (1) & a trunk lock actuator DIY (1) & how to replace your trunk shock absorber struts (1) or your E39 touring tailgate damper (1) & how to repair a broken trunk boot lock spring (1) & proper identification & location of relays in the trunk compartment & location of the fuel pump relay K96 (1) & how to open the hood (1) or boot manually when you have a dead 12v car battery (1) (2) & how to unlock the older E39 if the key is locked inside the trunk (1) (2)

Originally Posted by FLE39

^where is the valet switch? I think my 335i has one but cant' remember.

It says in the owner manual. There is no switch. The key slot should be in vertical position for the buttons to open the trunk.

Thank you, as my car did not come with a owners manual. Looking on ebay for one... My cylinder opening is in the vertical position. So it's the wires, fuse or actuator. dam. never an easy fix. My 335i has a small blk hidden switch in the glove box for the trunk deal. Oh well. I'll figure out what's wrong with it. I got the direction I needed.

Originally Posted by FLE39

Thank you, as my car did not come with a owners manual.

Stuff deleted

Download your owner's manual from here. Don't waste your $$ on fle-bay.

Cheers

There are a few things that can cause the remote trunk release to fail. Trunk key turned to manual lock position, Broken wire in the "snorkel" going to the release, blown fuse, bad actuator, or just a broken spring. Do you hear anything when you try to open it remotely? If you do it's just a broken spring in the release mechanism that can easily be replaced. If not continue checking the other possibilities.

breiefley pulled the snorkel conduit out of the trunk and found one wire cut real bad, not broke, but sheeting was cut and spread 1/8". Will do more invest this weekend. I don't hear anything back there.