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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 12-01-2012, 12:16 PM
E36Bassman E36Bassman is offline
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E36 rough idle until warm

Hey guys! New here! My names Brandon from Green Bay Wisconsin and I just picked up a 98 e36 4cyl

My issue with the car is when i come out in the morning to start her she take a bit to start and runs really rough almost like not on all cylinders and almost sounds like a knock coming fr the motor but this all disappears once the car gets warmer. It's done this for a bit now and I just put a new cam sensor in hoping that would fix it...

Hopefully you guys can help me! Thanks guys!!!
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2012, 02:28 PM
E36Bassman E36Bassman is offline
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Just realized it still idles a little rough once warm Say at a stop light
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  #3  
Old 12-02-2012, 01:38 AM
E36Bassman E36Bassman is offline
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Ttt
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2012, 06:14 AM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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not necessary to bump....

anyway, would need a little more information, such as have you done the following??

replaced plugs with the proper units?? (no bosch +4)
cleaned the idle control motor (iac) and throttle plate??
proper grade fuel??

any check engine lights on?? (verify the self check status when you key up, all ofthe lights should come on)

if you have an obd2 scan tool or even a code reader, check for pending codes. record them and check those out.

verify there are no vacuum leaks, check the intake boot and vac lines for cracking/softness,

how many miles on it??

since you just got it, i would suspect that these above ites are questionable, so i would also suggest a can of seafoam through the intake.

there are some other 4 banger specific issues that may be present, but i am unaware of them at this point, however, this is a good start to get the basics out of the way.

i'm sure thre will be others to chime in on this later.






df
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2012, 10:23 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Yeah, since you just got the car, you basically have to go through and check everything since the whole car is a big unknown. I'd pay particularly close attention to any and all vacuum lines, spark plugs, spark plug boots, and make sure there's no oil in the plug wells from a leaking valve cover gasket, as well as make sure you don't have any cracks in the intake boot. If all that stuff checks out okay, we'll have to delve deeper.
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Last edited by ZeGerman; 12-02-2012 at 10:24 AM.
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2012, 08:22 PM
Turbo_Prop Turbo_Prop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
cleaned the idle control motor (iac) and throttle plate??
My 1996 E35 Convert with 116K miles has the same problem, so I thought it would be best to add to this thread as opposed to starting a new thread.

Anyways.

Curious, how difficult is it to get to the Idle Control Valve on a E36 with the E52 engine?

My 1996 E36 Conv also has a poor idle (low rpm and rough), have been reading up on possible causes. Seems like the ICV is next on the list. Have already ordered a new hose and the connector that often breaks. Are there any other consumable/breakable items I should procure before ripping into this?

FYI - I changed spark plugs today, went with the four-prong NGK plug. The ones I pulled out were Bosh two-prong units and probably the original units. Car seems to run better now, well except for the crappy idle.
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  #7  
Old 12-02-2012, 09:00 PM
E36Bassman E36Bassman is offline
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Tryin plugs and cleaning all sensors tomorrow.
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  #8  
Old 12-02-2012, 09:27 PM
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The plugs you want are cheap. THey are the NGK BKR6EK. They are such a FAQ that many of us long time poster's have the product number memorized.
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  #9  
Old 12-09-2012, 11:28 AM
E36Bassman E36Bassman is offline
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Didn't change plugs. Checked them and they're perfect. Cleaned throttle body and tps and sprayed maf cleaner into the maf plate. any other suggestions?
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2012, 11:29 AM
E36Bassman E36Bassman is offline
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Realize right off the intake manifold the first intake boot is ripped.
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  #11  
Old 12-09-2012, 11:44 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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That's going to cause all sorts of issues, so it could well be the cause of your problem. Cheap & easy fix.
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  #12  
Old 12-09-2012, 02:17 PM
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jonesin jonesin is online now
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The bosch +4 platinum plugs are also a known issue with these cars. Yes, the plugs may look 'perfect', but they are the wrong plugs for these cars.
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2012, 06:18 PM
Dunzo Dunzo is offline
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A slow start and knocking sound sounds like a plug/coils issue to me. The plugs are timed in a sequence with electrical bursts from the coil pack. If the coils are not snug, in the wrong cylinder, or faulty, this issue can happen. You can have a slow start, no start, and/or a bad idle. Since you checked the plugs already, check the coil pack. Sounds like some bad misfiring going on.

Last edited by Dunzo; 12-10-2012 at 06:23 PM.
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  #14  
Old 12-11-2012, 12:00 PM
E36Bassman E36Bassman is offline
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It sounds like misfiring to me too. Bug goes away within a few minutes
Of the car warming up!
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  #15  
Old 12-16-2012, 11:51 AM
Turbo_Prop Turbo_Prop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo_Prop View Post
My 1996 E35 Convert with 116K miles has the same problem, so I thought it would be best to add to this thread as opposed to starting a new thread.

Anyways.

Curious, how difficult is it to get to the Idle Control Valve on a E36 with the E52 engine?

My 1996 E36 Conv also has a poor idle (low rpm and rough), have been reading up on possible causes. Seems like the ICV is next on the list. Have already ordered a new hose and the connector that often breaks. Are there any other consumable/breakable items I should procure before ripping into this?

FYI - I changed spark plugs today, went with the four-prong NGK plug. The ones I pulled out were Bosh two-prong units and probably the original units. Car seems to run better now, well except for the crappy idle.
Turned out to be ripped boot. I replaced the boot and everything is back to perfect. Next weekend I plan to clean that ICV, just in case.

I also put new Heavy Duty Blistein struts and new upper mounts on the front, new Michelin MXV4 tires all the way around and had a four-wheel alighnment done. The rear shocks were replaced a few months ago, also heavy duty Blisteins.

I cannot beleive the difference in how this car rides with the new tires, struts and alighnment. At 120k miles, the bushings in the suspension probably need replaced as well. Maybe in a few months, have to do some research first.
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  #16  
Old 12-16-2012, 12:03 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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I saw the title of this thread and thought to myself: "torn intake boot". And yeah, by the time you hit 120k, all of the shocks, struts, and bushings are usually pretty well shot. I replaced the suspension and bushings on my car at around 100k, and while the shocks were still working fine at that mileage, the bushings were totally gone. Like GONE, gone. If yours are the originals, they're probably on their way out if they haven't failed already. Unfortunately, when you replace the bushings, you'll have to get another alignment.

Glad to hear that you got your E36 sorted out, though. Should be a lot more pleasant to drive now.
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1998 BMW 328is
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View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #17  
Old 12-16-2012, 01:54 PM
Turbo_Prop Turbo_Prop is offline
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I still have a few maintenance things to take care of. Trans and differential fluid come to mind, maybe new belts and 02 sensors. Maybe addressing some of the rattles in the door panels. Really looking forward to getting to some of the cosmetic and audio issues.
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  #18  
Old 12-16-2012, 02:37 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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No reason to install new 02 sensors unless you're getting a CEL.
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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