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7 Series - F01 / F02 (2009 - current)
The new re-designed 7 series F01 / F02 leads off the BMW Fxx chassis code!

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  #1  
Old 09-08-2013, 08:13 AM
bmwfromcali bmwfromcali is offline
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Anyone have a clue what wheels these might be?

Came across these but the seller says he doesn't know what wheels these are. They came with his CPO F01 and is looking to sell them.
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  #2  
Old 09-08-2013, 08:38 AM
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Anyone have a clue what wheels these might be?

Can't think of the name, but I've seen similar ones on eBay. They're cheapies though.


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Old 09-08-2013, 11:14 AM
bmwfromcali bmwfromcali is offline
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Thanks. I found them. Their called Ace Convex. Gonna pass.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/22-Ace-Conve...3a529d&vxp=mtr
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:22 PM
chrischeung chrischeung is online now
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I've seen folks damage expensive wheels, and cheap ones last as well. If you're not tracking a car, is it all just brand and image? What do you need to look for when deciding what is OK and what is not?
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:37 PM
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Anyone have a clue what wheels these might be?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrischeung View Post
I've seen folks damage expensive wheels, and cheap ones last as well. If you're not tracking a car, is it all just brand and image? What do you need to look for when deciding what is OK and what is not?
While there are always exceptions to the rule, you generally get what you pay for with aftermarket wheels. Reputable companies that have been around for a while, and have a proven track record, provide a significant performance advantage over stock wheels.

Sure, while the looks may be similar with a cheap wheel, the structural integrity and weight will usually be compromised with a cheaper wheel. Rotational mass plays a huge part in not just track driving, but also street performance. I would rather spend extra for peace of mind and performance gain, than run the risk of cheap wheels cracking or weighing me down. You already spent a good amount of money on a flagship luxury car, why put cheap wheels on it?


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  #6  
Old 09-08-2013, 02:44 PM
chrischeung chrischeung is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.B.V. View Post
Sure, while the looks may be similar with a cheap wheel, the structural integrity and weight will usually be compromised with a cheaper wheel.
How do you know? Some testing reviews? Like TUV? JWL?
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Last edited by chrischeung; 09-08-2013 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:18 PM
AdamG13 AdamG13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrischeung View Post
How do you know? Some testing reviews? Like TUV? JWL?
Always the investigator... Chris are you in operational engineering by chance?
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:02 PM
chrischeung chrischeung is online now
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Always the investigator... Chris are you in operational engineering by chance?
IT Operations. I never thought about it - but yes - a large part of my job is qualifying underlying assumptions of decisions, and if incorrect, making better ones.

I used to be a big "brand" guy. But in the last 10 years, with better access to research and experiences, that has become less important. I honestly don't have enough money to buy all the top shelf stuff in life, so I need to make intelligent choices.
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Last edited by chrischeung; 09-08-2013 at 06:19 PM.
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  #9  
Old 09-08-2013, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrischeung View Post
How do you know? Some testing reviews? Like TUV? JWL?
Personal experience, online reviews, build reputation. And yes, TUV certification is obviously a welcome qualification. Example: I currently have the 19" BMW OEM forged wheels on my car. While upgrading to a 21" or even 22" wheel seems visually appealing, I made a promise to myself not to skimp on build quality, and not to add unnecessary weight to the car, especially in such a critical location. I'd rather wait and save up for HRE, BBS, or something similar in terms of overall product offering. Hope that helps...
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:43 PM
chrischeung chrischeung is online now
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What's the main difference between a 20" $325 BMW factory wheel and a $1000 HRE? http://www.allfactorywheels.com/brands/BMW.html. The BMW wheels seem like a comparative bargain. Unless the HREs are titanium or something like what are used in racing.

Yes, I'm stirring the pot here. I've never seriously thought to go beyond OEM. But this has got me thinking now. Can you really tell the difference from inside the car? Is it 95% cosmetic only? I honestly have never been in a car and said wow, this car must have forged, super light or super strong wheels. I can tell suspension and wheel size differences however. In cars that weigh 4400lbs or more, is the effect that dramatic?

My biggest question mark is unsprung weight. I honestly don't know how this works. I've heard it better to have a lighter wheel, tire, break, hub etc., since that is unsprung mass. But should they be lighter, and the suspension springs and shocks altered to "tune" to that lower weight? Will rebound be affected for example, since it is all lighter, causing faster rebound than intended. Or as long as all the components are strong enough, they will work better in any situation if the suspension components are a constant. That seems to be the consensus on the internet, but if someone could point me to an industry article describing it, I'd be greatly appreciative. I follow F1 and they often mention this, but it's one of those things I've never exactly understood.
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3/12 ED 7 - thread ID 610350
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3/06 ED 2 - thread ID 136454

Last edited by chrischeung; 09-08-2013 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:51 PM
ayu910 ayu910 is offline
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OEM wheel is great and priced very resonable, plus I think BMW offer the most variety that can be choice from if owner decdie to customize a little.

As for HRE, that is totally different spectrum as now one can do "a lot" of customizatiion, from off-set, color, finish, and lip depth. It is like tailor made suit, one of kind and focus on meeting each individual requirement. Yes, HRE does cost more to produce compare with other wheel but now the question is does HRE worth the price tag which some might ask. IMO, so far they don't have much competition so I guess that is not not really relevant as HRE can simply price to market. On the positive note, that keep the HRE wheel resale value fiarly stable. It probably depreciate slower than our car!
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  #12  
Old 09-09-2013, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrischeung View Post
What's the main difference between a 20" $325 BMW factory wheel and a $1000 HRE? http://www.allfactorywheels.com/brands/BMW.html. The BMW wheels seem like a comparative bargain. Unless the HREs are titanium or something like what are used in racing.

Yes, I'm stirring the pot here. I've never seriously thought to go beyond OEM. But this has got me thinking now. Can you really tell the difference from inside the car? Is it 95% cosmetic only? I honestly have never been in a car and said wow, this car must have forged, super light or super strong wheels. I can tell suspension and wheel size differences however. In cars that weigh 4400lbs or more, is the effect that dramatic?

My biggest question mark is unsprung weight. I honestly don't know how this works. I've heard it better to have a lighter wheel, tire, break, hub etc., since that is unsprung mass. But should they be lighter, and the suspension springs and shocks altered to "tune" to that lower weight? Will rebound be affected for example, since it is all lighter, causing faster rebound than intended. Or as long as all the components are strong enough, they will work better in any situation if the suspension components are a constant. That seems to be the consensus on the internet, but if someone could point me to an industry article describing it, I'd be greatly appreciative. I follow F1 and they often mention this, but it's one of those things I've never exactly understood.
It may not be something you feel precisely, as much as it is peace of mind and the ability to withstand more bumps, crack, potholes and whatever else the road may throw at you. Keep in mind the 7 weighs almost 3 tons. Much like tires, do you really want one of the main components connecting you to the road be something "just ok"? You didn't buy a 7 series to drive something "adequate", did you?

As for the industry article, I would simply google it. There are more articles and explanations out there than I could possibly even just start to point you towards.

In conclusion, I would go with an upsized OEM offering, unless I absolutely had to have something unique. But then I would assume the cost of paying more for that quality. OEM wheels are a strong affordable option, good aftermarket wheels are more expensive.
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:46 PM
chrischeung chrischeung is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.B.V. View Post
You didn't buy a 7 series to drive something "adequate", did you?
Yes. To me it's a daily driver. I run Costco gas, use tools on it from Sears, and washing products from Walmart. The excellence of the car comes in the design and building of it. I wouldn't choose anything below it though. I would define "adequate" as something developed to the same standards as factory. I would not hesitate to get BMW OEM rims. I would hesitate to get much more expensive ones, or much cheaper ones. Actually, I'd hesitate to get anything other than BMW rims.

Just my opinion. I don't mind others and their choices. In fact I welcome it - diversity in expression. It'd be pretty boring if we all had the same cars. I just choose to express myself differently, like in color and trim choices (not getting the rear parcel shelf wood) etc.
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrischeung View Post
Yes. To me it's a daily driver. I run Costco gas, use tools on it from Sears, and washing products from Walmart. The excellence of the car comes in the design and building of it. I wouldn't choose anything below it though. I would define "adequate" as something developed to the same standards as factory. I would not hesitate to get BMW OEM rims. I would hesitate to get much more expensive ones, or much cheaper ones. Actually, I'd hesitate to get anything other than BMW rims.
While I can't say I share the same practices with my 7, I can appreciate your school of thought.

I don't think that Costco gas, Sears tools and Walmart washing products don't do a great job. But then again, none of those might suddenly fail on you, causing expensive damage or worse, personal injury.

That said, I agree with you definition of adequate. I think a way to sum it up is that I wouldn't trust an aftermarket product on something as vital as wheels without extensive research. But, given the nature and direction of this conversation, you don't strike me as an uninformed impulse buyer
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:57 PM
chrischeung chrischeung is online now
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[QUOTE=D.B.V.;7826320As for the industry article, I would simply google it. There are more articles and explanations out there than I could possibly even just start to point you towards.[/QUOTE]

The reason I asked is that I assumed some others had trodden this research path before getting their own rims. The internet is full of knowledge - but a lot of it is irrelevant and difficult to sift through. Just asking for a gimme here. I personally do it all the time - I often link to other B'fest posts or specific articles when I think they are on point and relevant for the user.
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Last edited by chrischeung; 09-09-2013 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrischeung View Post
The reason I asked is that I assumed some others had trodden this research path before getting their own rims. The internet is full of knowledge - but a lot of it is irrelevant and difficult to sift through. Just asking for a gimme here. I personally do it all the time - I often link to other B'fest posts or specific articles when I think they are on point and relevant for the user.
I unfortunately did not learn about the topic through the internet. Therefore I cannot efficiently point you towards a specific post/thread.

However, I did come across one at one of my most revered technical forums:

A quote "A good way to visualize the effect of unsprung weight is to imagine yourself holding a lightweight basketball and moving it around, changing direction rapidly, paying attention to how this actionb makes your body move. Then imagine the same thing with the same ball filled with concrete. The more unsprung weight there is, the more it's movement upsets the chassis."

Thread here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ifference.html

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Old 09-09-2013, 02:21 PM
chrischeung chrischeung is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.B.V. View Post
A quote "A good way to visualize the effect of unsprung weight is to imagine yourself holding a lightweight basketball and moving it around, changing direction rapidly, paying attention to how this actionb makes your body move. Then imagine the same thing with the same ball filled with concrete. The more unsprung weight there is, the more it's movement upsets the chassis."

Thread here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ifference.html

Does this mean if you have a lighter wheel, that you should also adjust your suspension springs, shocks etc. as well? So is the suspension tuned to the sprung weight, unsprung weight, both, or neither?

Using the analogy above, and I'm trying to think logically, if a wheel were lighter, and the spring the same, wouldn't it compress less since it weighs less? So to maintain the same suspension characteristics, wouldn't you need to get comparatively softer springs and shocks? Will the car be more prone to "hopping" on imperfect surfaces?

This is another major reason why I don't like the thought of buying separate bits. It's rare that 1 bit works independently of the others. And to make a cohesive difference, things should be done as a package.
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3/12 ED 7 - thread ID 610350
1/11 ED 6 - thread ID 5767556&postcount=175
4/10 ED 5 - thread ID 453501
5/08 ED 4 - thread ID 290679
3/07 ED 3 - thread ID 201013
3/06 ED 2 - thread ID 136454

Last edited by chrischeung; 09-09-2013 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 09-09-2013, 04:17 PM
ayu910 ayu910 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrischeung View Post
Does this mean if you have a lighter wheel, that you should also adjust your suspension springs, shocks etc. as well? So is the suspension tuned to the sprung weight, unsprung weight, both, or neither?

Using the analogy above, and I'm trying to think logically, if a wheel were lighter, and the spring the same, wouldn't it compress less since it weighs less? So to maintain the same suspension characteristics, wouldn't you need to get comparatively softer springs and shocks? Will the car be more prone to "hopping" on imperfect surfaces?

This is another major reason why I don't like the thought of buying separate bits. It's rare that 1 bit works independently of the others. And to make a cohesive difference, things should be done as a package.
Yes, ideally for competition track environment rebound of the shock should be adjusted to optimize performance. The rebound should be reduce as lighter wheel/tire won't travel up as much. As I recall shock frequency response is around 3~8hz and wheel at around 30hz. I would est stock non-active shock should able to cover range of +/- 20% in support of different unsprung weight configuration (RFT, non RFT, BBK, non BBK, 19", 20", 18", snow tire, etc). Active shocks/damper which can adjust dynamically on the fly should offer more tolerance range.

For normal street use unless the new unsprung wheel/tire/brake setup reduced/increased weight significantly (>50%), stock setup should be sufficient.

Steering feedback is another topic of its own, it is matter of driver calibrate to the different in responses.
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